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Siebet

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Posts posted by Siebet

  1. No, everything gets 24v instead of 19v...

    Depending on your board version, the electronics fan will go faster (understand: more noise), and the hot end fan will probably die as it is a 12v fan already overpowered with 19v.

    Motors will get 24v as well, which is ok, your heating cartridge will warm up faster. But all in all you should be good ;)

    Thanks!

  2. Also, if they translate the mark2, it will need the endstops a-la um2, just to free the frontal area of homing x/y on that corner and the z endstop to readjust the z without a mechanical switch.

    The Ultimaker Original has on all axes 2 endstops, So it's very easy to let the bed home at the bottem of the printer...

  3. IRobertl thanks. One of the set screws (photo) wasn't tight enough on the rod to hold the pulley in place.

    I can't find the spacer.  But i can print it ). Senks

    IMG_1301.thumb.jpg.5d28909d3eb76b576dcef7f81079b8c5.jpg

    There is no spacer on that pulley...

    You can just tight the pulley!

  4. Hi,

    On that pulley there is no black spacer. Are the pulleys on that rod fixed? If the dubble pulley isn't fixed, you can push the pulley to the frame and screw up the screws...

    Now the rod must be fixed and he isn't be able move anymore.

    • Like 1
  5. Hi @amedee and @catohagen,

    great thanks for the replies and helpful discussion.

    I am still waiting for some components and checking now the 24V upgrade. In regards to the fans I will put them in series anyway and should have another 12V (24V) fan lying around. Does the original 5V fan to be PWM-able or is it either on/off all the time on the UM2(+), once the printer is on?

    One last question. My very hidden agenda is in the end (once I have an UM2 hot end and got used to it) to even try to upgrade my UMO to a Mark2. Next to the hotends (yes I would need another one) it seems to be the software/firmware that is the biggest problem here. Anyone of you has tried or thought about such a mod ?

    Thanks again,

    greengrecko

     

    Hi,

    I am trying to upgrade the UMO to an Mark 2 with 2 UM2 printheads. I have a friend which is very good in Arduino coding and he will translate the firmware so it will work with an Reprap Full Graphics LCD... If it works, we will publish it online!

    • Like 1
  6. I made a video that may help you with this. I wanted to be able to convert the Original Ultimaker to run off a single 24 volt power supply and run all the electronics including a heated bed. Check it out!

    Hi,

    So the only thing I need to do is solder the new regulator?

    Nothing else? Fans, motors and other components get the same voltage as before?

    Thanks for the video!

  7. Hi,

    I have an old UMO with an old Ultimaker motherboard.

    I want to change the printhead to an printhead of an UM2 (Not 2+).

    That's possible I think?

    But, if it possible, I want to use 2 UM2 printheads and this great Mark 2 system...

    Is this possible with the old motherboard?

    The main issue is that while it could be possible to use it, the firmware from @tinkergnome runs on the um2 oled display, so you would need the 100€ish display to make it work, also most probably the um2 board (but I think that could be work out). So, long story short, unless someone translates all tinkergnome firmware to the umo/reprap display, it would not be possible to use it atm without expending more money.

    I'm starting with the @gudo ZGEMark2 beta, but I'll use a Duet3D board that allows to semi-manually to do all the key stuff.

    And with an reprap full graphic smart controller? Is it not possible to run the UM2 interface on these displays? Or are there other solutions? 100 euro for an display is a bit to much

  8. Hi,

    I have cleaned my z-rod and I used the Tinkergnome firmware to run the PID setting.

    This helped a lot! Chek my new prints! (Green=> before / Gold => after)

    Thanks to make my Ultimaker back an Ultimaker!!

    5a333c56bfb7b_2017-06-2308_45_05.thumb.jpg.6b595959e1e5bbec7d4fa84222263f77.jpg

    5a333c571e0a9_2017-06-2308_44_58.thumb.jpg.aa64c398224e7015bca20ab51212bc19.jpg

    5a333c578e17b_2017-06-2308_44_44.thumb.jpg.2804e2fe8cb209c198006800b47a4657.jpg

    5a333c580a270_2017-06-2308_44_30.thumb.jpg.10754b6e74202cf38e504bf710bdd8fc.jpg

    5a333c585ff92_2017-06-2308_44_18.thumb.jpg.f05e4472658b1f9cead9b20b3cb31c46.jpg

    5a333c58eaf97_2017-06-2308_44_02.thumb.jpg.1049cd6588fd070d5a8d03b726ffe750.jpg

    5a333c56bfb7b_2017-06-2308_45_05.thumb.jpg.6b595959e1e5bbec7d4fa84222263f77.jpg

    5a333c571e0a9_2017-06-2308_44_58.thumb.jpg.aa64c398224e7015bca20ab51212bc19.jpg

    5a333c578e17b_2017-06-2308_44_44.thumb.jpg.2804e2fe8cb209c198006800b47a4657.jpg

    5a333c580a270_2017-06-2308_44_30.thumb.jpg.10754b6e74202cf38e504bf710bdd8fc.jpg

    5a333c585ff92_2017-06-2308_44_18.thumb.jpg.f05e4472658b1f9cead9b20b3cb31c46.jpg

    5a333c58eaf97_2017-06-2308_44_02.thumb.jpg.1049cd6588fd070d5a8d03b726ffe750.jpg

  9. Hi all,

    I have the same problem with our Ultimaker 2+ with dual-extruders.

    Is it possible that poor cooling of the nozzle generates a non-constant plastic outlet?

    Or a poor quality plastic?

    Have a good day.

    It could be a problem with the cooling. My overhangs are also bad! But my fans are on when printing...

  10. Hallo Siebet,

    Welke laagdikte heb je geprint met je 0.8mm nozzle?

    Which layerheight did you print with your 0.8mm nozzle?

     

    Geen idee meer, deze foto's zijn van vandaag, 0.15mm layerheight. Deze zijn oke maar niet perfect toch?

    5a3339f117439_2017-05-0320_44_46.thumb.jpg.6cad91a6b25e0c6c0288280bace73146.jpg

    5a3339f151860_2017-05-0320_45_27.thumb.jpg.75cc27fea8baebd96c8b99b28f847b0f.jpg

    5a3339f117439_2017-05-0320_44_46.thumb.jpg.6cad91a6b25e0c6c0288280bace73146.jpg

    5a3339f151860_2017-05-0320_45_27.thumb.jpg.75cc27fea8baebd96c8b99b28f847b0f.jpg

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