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  1. SandervG -- my firmware issue was resolved with the most recent update. Thanks again!
  2. I didn't think of that! Good idea, and easy enough work around. Thanks!
  3. SandervG, thanks for the reply! It's not the biggest deal in the world - very easy to work around as I'm not bed leveling that often. But when I do, I go to Maintenance --> Build Plate. I do not have an option under Advanced or anything like that to level.
  4. I'm bumping this, I'm actually having the same issue and it crashes my machine occasionally (UM 2+) -- I reinstalled the firmware running Cura 15.04.4, Should I try that again? I agree with SandervG it thinks I'm going through the initial setup phase every time I level the bed, but on step 21 when it says Ready to Print, sometimes it just freezes up and the lights go off, but the LCD remains lit.
  5. I edited my original post - but for those of you following along at home - here's the back of the XT box, and why I was confused about the co-polyester vs. PLA/PHA distinction.
  6. Ah, so that definitely explains the conflicting search results. For the record, I'm using Colorfabb XT --http://colorfabb.com/xt-light-blue In my defense the side of the box says PLA/PHA, I'll take another look when I get back to my home office to see where the confusion originated and I'll edit the original post so as not to mislead other newbies. On a related note, I found the Ultimaker PLA easy to print with right out of the box. The Colorfabb XT took a lot more tinkering, I'm not sure I would recommend jumping right to it if you're new like me. On the other hand, playing with the settings has been very educational if you don't mind failed print after failed print. I should note I have no quarrels with the Ultimaker 2+. I think it's a great machine and I've been really impressed, every failed print has been user error, of that I'm confident. I did notice, if you make a custom preset for material, occasionally when warming up before printing, the machine will keep the temperature head at 0 C, and you'll have to manually tune the temperature you wanted. While I'm at it, the temperature overshoots a bit when adjusting, it always corrects itself, but I noticed it can be a problem when printing at 260 C because it will jump to 275 before coming back down and at least on one occasion that caused the machine to read back a temperature error and I had to restart the printer. I found that you can avoid the spikes by slowly increasing the number up by tuning it (i.e. start at 250 and increase in increments of 2)
  7. Hi all, I tried finding a discussion for the best print settings when using Colorfabb XT filament, but I kept getting conflicting results. You can find ColorFabb's recommended settings here: http://learn.colorfabb.com/print-_xt/ After several failed prints though, I started to tinker around with the settings and my biggest recommendations are as follows: 1). Increase the bed temp to 80 C. Yes, I know the XT has a glassing temperature of 75 C, but honestly, you will have a hell of a time getting it to stick to anything lower than 80. I'm able to consistently get good sticks at 80 C with no glue and no warping problems. 2). Change the travel speed to something around 200 mm/s. You can adjust the travel speed in Cura by going to expert settings --> advanced --> travel speed. If you haven't touched it before, it will probably be 120 or 150 mm/s and that is too low for this material. 3). Temperature head -- I typically print at 35 mm/s and a layer height of .175 using a .4 mm nozzle. Given those settings, I found that between 240 and 245 worked best. When I go lower, I'll occasionally have trouble getting the filament to stick, this is something you have to fiddle with a little and honestly, probably varies between colors. Please find below sample prints I ran to assist me in coming up with these figures. I hope you find this useful. P.S. I just purchased the Ultimaker 2+. It is my first 3D printer, but I have been a long, long time lurker in these forums and others. I've followed Ultimaker since UMO and finally decided to pull the trigger a few weeks ago. I just use it for kicks and to help make designs for my Arduino projects.
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