Giogiogio4
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Posts posted by Giogiogio4
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$1500ish
Model roughly has 1 month of runtime. Comes with door so you can use ABS without having to worry about the ceiling fan and air currents prematurely cooling and ruining you models. Includes 1 new roll of filament. A few nozzles A 1.75mm Conversion nozzle set Machine runs fine. I'm mainly selling because i'm focusing on my 3D skills and dont print anymore. So Id figure I would pass it to the next good owner.
Attached photos are of most recent print.
Wont do any test prints until serious buyer finalizes sale.
( I've already done an entire role of test prints for no shows )
Wont come with top cover due to shipping it would be too costly and I dont trust it making it through shipping.
Orlando ,Florida Area available for pickup.
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I'm interested, but you're considerably above the price these are selling for on eBay. If you change your mind on the price, get back to me.
Then buy the ones off ebay? Seemed to have solved your own problem.
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Hey guys. Selling my Ultimaker 2+ to local buyers in the Florida Area.
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I decided to convert my UM2 with olsson block from 1,75mm what is the best way to advise me to follow to change the feeder tube and bowen?
I also think you have to change the feeder. Check out GR5 he has a kit for that.
Still requires a few printed parts.
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Which software do you like to use to make models for 3D printing?
At the moment im Stuck between Maya, Fusion 360.
Sometimes I use 123Design to make quick things.
Im unsure which program I should invest more of my
time into. I have been using Maya, but I have been enjoying
Fusion 360 much more layout wise.
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In Cura 2.1.2, make sure "Union Overlapping Volumes" under "Mesh Fixes" is checked. The supports should be fine.
The missing supports was a problem with the old Cura.
That the model is broken is not a Cura issue, but Cura has options to _try_ to fix it. You should always check if Cura does what you expect and if not fix your model in an appropriate modelling software.
Ok thanks!
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Was this issue ever fixed? I have been having it happen quite frequently
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In the beginning it really was a problem for me indeed: I often have difficult prints: long, 100% filled, with chamfers or roundings at the bottom, 5 to 15mm high. These excert a lot of warping force, even when using PLA.
Printing on bare glass sometimes worked in cold dry weather, when it was freezing outside. But it never worked in rainy weather: then the filament would curl up immediately. I disliked the glue-stick methode: too messy, and bonding was still poor. And I could not use blue tape, since the underside of my models had to be totally flat. So I had to find something else...
It took me some time and some testing to discover the "salt method": now I just wipe the glass plate with very salt water before a print. When dry, this leaves a very thin, even mist of salt stuck to the plate. Since then I have no more problems: models stick very well when the glass is hot (60°C), and they pop off by themself when at room temp (25°C). I only print with PLA, so I don't know for other materials.
Also, I don't know why it works, but it does. Could it be surface tension? Soap decreases surface tension and decreases bonding. So I thought salt might help since it works in the opposite way of soap: it increases surface tension. Other things that might play a role could be surface roughness, or electrostatical charge?
Havent tried Salt.
I got tired of the glue method. Too messy and many times didnt really work or change anything. Florida here so it's very humid.
printer is in my room so I tend to use the ceiling fan. My first prints curled a ton because of it. After I installed the door and cover all I use is tape. Cleaning takes maybe 2 mins? Just peel off and replace. 300 hours later I havent had a print fail.
Sometimes I cant get my prints off the bed now XD
Going to 3D and design a damn wall system that lets me put my glass bed against the wall and pull my prints off!
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Am I the only one who never has that problem? I think after the first week of owning my printing was the one time I had issues.
I Don't use glue ever. Stopped using it because it was just a mess.
I Just use Blue Painters Tape, a little bit of sanding and I'm done.
My Prints always stick. I also installed a door and top cover to block my ceiling fan from
cooling it down. If anything people should focus on cutting down on drafts in the area
instead of throwing more glue down. No Issues with PLA on Painters tape.
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If anyone else has this issue. Didnt change anything. Disabled advance settings. Went back and my brims were back. Put back in the same settings and it seems to work.
Don't know why resetting it seemed to do the trick.
Before that rotating the model and rotating it back to the same position also brought them back.
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Maybe your part isn't touching the glass - I've seen that before. Can you post the STL file somewhere and/or a screen shot of cura showing the bottom layer?
Made a flat shape in 1234 Design. Exported it. opened it in cura. Rotated it 90 degrees so it was flat. Cura auto aligns it down to the bed. Doesnt have a first layer in layer view. Rotated it again long ways. It shows up. Rotated it back and it wont show up again.
Very annoying. Its a simple RING shape. Didnt rotate it in the 2 other 3d programs I made it in.
I made a cylinder shape. exported it and tried to open it in cura. Same thing.
I started a print. It prints the brim. When the print fails I abort it and start it up again. The brim doesnt print on that file or anything else on the memory card. The gcode shouldnt change or lose layers just from sitting inside the printer.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1ya71IwpTg5UW5CVjRnR3gxUHM/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1ya71IwpTg5dGpsU290dDNRM3c/view?usp=sharing
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Have you changed the "Brim line amount" setting under Expert settings perhaps?
Also, XT is a chemically completely different material from PLA so it's not all that strange that the print settings are different.
Never touched the Brim settings since I got the machine
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I dont know what's going on. I have done about 13 hours of small prints this week. Same settings.
Popped open my new 2kg roll of clear colorfabb xt and have had nothing but issues.
First issue was simply the settings for this filament. To think the colorfabb color stuff that
works great printing at temp 180-210 to this clear stuff needing to be at 240 and above...
Anyways. for some stupid reason my Brim setting, which is checked and all within normal
settings wont print! I noticed something was up when I first started a print and the printer
even skipped making a normal parameter around where it's going to print at the start of the print.
And it now wont print Brims...Which when you are printing a ton of small parts comes in handy!
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Btw I been using the 1.75mm version of the olsson for a few weeks, since I never used a um2hotend before it was a bit confusing to adjust the tension to keep the i2k/ptfe in place but now that it's all set it's printing a bit better than my umo+ hotends. Also I was able to print a ultirobot at 50mm/s 0.1layer at 188C fans at full (with a fancap designed for umo print area).
Btw I don't think that with the standard knurdted bolt the 1.75mm version will work 'fine'. On mine I use a mk7 with IRobiertI feeder and a 6-2mm bowden. It's printing quite nicely. The um2 knurdted bolt isn't designed for 1.75mm filament and I bet that's giving problems to more than one.
Yeah for me It was going good for a good while. Then my prints would jam after awhile. Always during a retraction. Kills me because it worked fine for a good 30+ hours of printing.
I held off for awhile to see if anyone would figure out the issue. Then I would pop my 1.75 kit back in.
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If you can get it inside the regular bowden let me know and I'll send you an STL file you can print in a few minutes o keep them from slipping inside each other.
Anders Olsson claims the "3mm" bowden works fine for 1.75mm. I'm skeptical. I'm guessing he printed pretty slow.
Ever try out the 1.75 kit? I was having those issues with jamming and we figured it was the feeder.
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gio has a um2+ so he would need to double the steps from 195.2 to 390 steps/mm if he uses the MK7.
I don't have any 1.75mm filament so I can't really test my own kit. I guess I need to order some at some point.
I am hoping to be getting some 1.75mm bowdens within a month from 3dsolex.
So any luck with the new feeder kit?
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Not sure, I haven't used this feature.
But you can queue as many instances of the plugin as you like so you can make the printer stop at different heights/layers. I _think_ I saw an option to change the filament while the printer is paused (would make sense). Or if you have Robert's feeder, you can open it and change the filament yourself. The nozzle remains hot all the time (so careful and don't pause for too long).
I will give it a look!
Sadly the amount said needed wasnt the same as what it actually needed. So I ran out and had to pause it manually and swap it out for another color. Time for a violin with a white butt! XD
Still looking to see how the neck looks with that feature! I just wish the Ultimaker actually kept up with the layers on the menu.
OR better yet had a feature to pause and then Save the G-code as a new file from the given paused point. And allow it to open in cura to use
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You can do this in Cura. Switch to expert settings (Menu -> Expert -> Switch to full settings). Then at the top, click on the Plugins tab. There you can select Pause at Height and click on the arrow down button underneath the plugin list. The plugin is then added and you can tell it a what height (or layer number) to pause. You can get the layer number when you slice the model and then switch the view mode (button at the top right) and select Layers.
Awesome! Thanks!
When I do this, will the ultimaker know to go through the normal change material settings?
What if it jams or something, would i be able to reset to that last pause at layer?
Or maybe pause Twice and have the next color in the center!
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Im wanting to tell Cura to pause my print after about half the amount of grams are used Or half the print
( not including the The rafts and so on ) so I can swap the material out.
Im attempting to print a Violin out of coffee PLA XD and realize I wont have enough for the neck.
So I was looking to stop the print and perhaps make half the neck another color .
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Somehow I knew this would turn into Windows versus Mac argument
I hear similar arguments around the office around Chevy versus Ford.It's more of a 'Apple is way overprice and sells junk' conversation. Windows isn't much better, but at least you don't pay a huge markup.
As for Ford vs Chevy... i have a 2002 mustang with 88k miles... i had to have the engine rebuilt at great cost this past month. I can't say i'm too happy with that, especially considering the low mileage and how babied the car has been. Never had a Chevy
Who buys window computers? Most of the Windows hate comes from other companies installing and selling windows on garbage hardware.
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gio has a um2+ so he would need to double the steps from 195.2 to 390 steps/mm if he uses the MK7.
I don't have any 1.75mm filament so I can't really test my own kit. I guess I need to order some at some point.
I am hoping to be getting some 1.75mm bowdens within a month from 3dsolex.
good to know. When you get the bowdens I will order the feeder kit together with them and give it a go. Kinda wish Ultimaker had a 1.75mm upgrade kit. Would open up things for sure!
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@giogiogio4 - I wish you pointed out this thread earlier.
I think you may have 2 different problems. One is that you are using the 1.75mm filament in the UM2+ printer. I haven't tried that yet. The feeder that comes with the UM2 doesn't handle 1.75mm very well as the filament is squeezed between the bearing and the knurled wheel and there is too much space such that the filament is barely squeezed.
I'm guessing this might be a possible problem, or the filament might be slipping completely off the bearing wheel and pushing the lever gets it back in place again. This was someone elses theory also up above. Maybe labern? Anyway your 1.75mm kit has never been tried on a UM2+ and maybe I should put something in the 1.75mm kit description stating that fact. I think you would have to print an iRoberti feeder to get it to work. Preferably with a meduza 2x adapter. And probably I'd print the iRoberti feeder mirror image as I think that's what you would need to do for you to not have to reverse the feeder stepper rotation direction. I am planning to sell parts for the meduza 2x converter. I feel bad for you because you have had such bad luck with the 1.75mm kit that I'll give you the meduza parts at cost if you want it. more info here:
Whats the main difference with that feeder? I noticed a good amount of feeders for print.
I dont mind checking it out. Maybe after you do a few test prints on your upgrade kit you could inform me? I can hold off til then. Just pick myself up some colorfab and print in 2.85 for awhile. Bummed out cuz I have a whole tub of 1.75 i wana get a crack at XD
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And bam again. failed after a good hour.
Perhaps it's pulling back the filament on a retract, slips and is unable to push it back quick enough. Causing the filament to cool, then jams when it tries to push it back.
And because the retracked area is already worn down is unable to push it back. And the filament begins to curl. I am assuming this is it. also explains why my pushing the lever quick enough fixes it, because the filament didnt get a chance to cool.
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@giogiogio4 - I wish you pointed out this thread earlier.
I think you may have 2 different problems. One is that you are using the 1.75mm filament in the UM2+ printer. I haven't tried that yet. The feeder that comes with the UM2 doesn't handle 1.75mm very well as the filament is squeezed between the bearing and the knurled wheel and there is too much space such that the filament is barely squeezed.
I'm guessing this might be a possible problem, or the filament might be slipping completely off the bearing wheel and pushing the lever gets it back in place again. This was someone elses theory also up above. Maybe labern? Anyway your 1.75mm kit has never been tried on a UM2+ and maybe I should put something in the 1.75mm kit description stating that fact. I think you would have to print an iRoberti feeder to get it to work. Preferably with a meduza 2x adapter. And probably I'd print the iRoberti feeder mirror image as I think that's what you would need to do for you to not have to reverse the feeder stepper rotation direction. I am planning to sell parts for the meduza 2x converter. I feel bad for you because you have had such bad luck with the 1.75mm kit that I'll give you the meduza parts at cost if you want it. more info here:
I was only having that issue after the fact it jammed.
When I first put the kit together I had no issues. The insert new material feature is a hit or miss with 1.75 . it would load everything just fine. Feeder works and everything. it would just reach the end and get stuck around the teflon part. But I usually did it by hand and had no issues printing. A good 20-40 Hours worth actually. No quality issues at all.
Then I started getting issues. I would hear a clicking or popping sound. And then look over and see the extruder not pushing anything out. I would check the feeder with move material and had no issues pushing or pulling the filament. I would even push it through by hand to check for clogs. All was clear. Start it back up and the same issue. The clicking sound came from the head area as well as the feeder.
I figured the filament was catching on something, Perhaps bending inside ( sometimes it would snap ). or it would catch a point, Then I figured the tension pushing back went into the feeder causing it to grind or not push forward anyone because it was stuck. Then me pushing the lever was simply giving it a new area to grab.
The issue was always easily spotted during the loading process or right at the start of a print because it would jam right there and not extrude. Sometimes I would have to hand feed it through the feeder because it was also jam right at the exit where it meets the tube.
if anything I think the biggest issue is simply too much space compared to the 2.85. if the 2.85 got even slightly stuck on a bevel or edge the feeder would just push it because it's big enough. While the 1.75mm just bends and curls in the same areas.
Anyways I changed the Teflon with the new one. For some reason the hole is smaller on this one compared to the one I got from you. I also checked out the green thing you gave me. Its a little shorter than the old one I got from you. So there is a tiny tiny bit of wiggle room. But it seems to be working. First time I loaded it, all good. Then I had to hand load it when I started a print because of the jamming.
The print has gone well with no issues. I want to try to get a Bowden tube. I have read a few users putting a 6od in a 4 and a 4od with a 2in into the machine. That might help because right now the bowden doesnt fit into the teflon, it just touches the edge. Even if lined up , there is still a tiny edge inside the teflon for the filament to catch onto.
If you can think of anything else that might cause tension on the filament im all ears. Honestly this isnt a problem to me. Im still learning and do enjoy taking it all apart and learning about it.The test print I made just came out perfect, better than ever. Im going to test a long print and see how that comes out.
I hear similar arguments around the office around Chevy versus Ford.
Selling Ultimaker 2+
in Buying or selling your UltiMaker
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