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Everything posted by LesHall

  1. Oh wow they have it for sale now! metal filament for sale I'm going to get some. Les
  2. Well I'm thinking that those problems can be overcome, for example see this new exotic filament: Copper and Bronze Filament Note that the stuff discussed in that article is *not* Copper Fill or Brass Fill, instead it has a very high metal content. Check it out! Les
  3. Ty for your reply, Owen. I agree that a simple coil of 2.85 mm pewter would be too inflexible, so what I was thinking was to make stranded or notched or spiral somehow patterns of it. You know how copper wire is really hard to bend if it's solid and bends easily if stranded? Something like that. Les
  4. OK, goofy question time here... I have begun to look into metal casting a bit and I am quite surprised to learn that some alloys of pewter have a melting point below the 250 C of my Ultimaker. So this gets the gears turning and I imagine casting the pewter into filament but not just filament, something with notches or spirals or some design to allow it to be pushed through the Bowden tube. If we did those two things, could we not print in pewter? I welcome your replies! Les
  5. Version 1.0


    Please see three angles of my item plus one image of the item that inspired me.. I know, what I did kinda pales by comparison, but fear not - I am just getting started. My buddy can cast it into metal for $100. The idea is you clamp a contact mic (the Korg model $15 is the one I'm looking at) and then you stroke it with a violin bow ($17 at Amazon with rosin). and send the contact mic output to a mixer ($50 at Amazon) which sends it over USB to the software (ChucK) that will enhance the sound and send it to the speakers. So yeah, it's an $80 price tag on gear to run this rig. Still, it
  6. A bee? Oh, a bee! A worker bee! A part of the hive mind! hehe Les
  7. To all the worker bees at Ultimaker: Work is tough, even on the best days it can be challenging. So today my Ultimaker 2+ has given me about I think maybe four months of flawless service, the Cura software is not only free but works great, and the whole system overall just plain works - like it is meant to be. Ease of use is phenomenal and problems are all but nonexistent. So if you are having a challenging day, I'd like to encourage you by saying: It's worth the struggle and it shows. My compliments. Les Out. Praise the Lord Les
  8. Yeah, Sander, and I suppose if we are to meditate on that theme a bit, well we might realize it as a general principle. That we should accept things for what they really are rather than try to fit into some predetermined box that we have in our minds. We are always striving for perfection and maybe we should be accepting of things for what they are. Like the sculptor Rodin who sculpted "The Thinker" as probably his most famous work. I learned once that when the clay developed a crack from drying, he would just leave the crack there rather than try to "fix" it. He is now a historic artis
  9. Reminds me of an old blog, which I have always really liked and helped me create a different frame of referencec. Nice article, thanks Sander (go read, it's short and says a lot!). I have also found in the past that using a larger nozzle size combined with a layer height of 75% nozzle size will really lay down the plastic for those large hollow prints of vases and earths and my Earth Drop on YouMagine (Earth Drop).
  10. I live in a Nursing Home in a small town just outside of San Antonio, Texas, and we had some flooding that interrupted the power recently. Plus my previous printer kept failing catastrophically on longer print jobs and I suspected gremlins at work, either that or an overheating component perhaps. In Florida the power system was dual redundant to handle hurricanes after a lawsuit accused the FP&L of negligence for not having a quick recovery system in place. That was cool as I once heard an explosion which was a transformer blowing itself up from the heat of the sun, followed by an out
  11. Yes, well, I was thinking of subtleties such as fluctuations in voltage could make the steppers step quicker, then you've got a mechanical dynamic that could leave a bit of a defect in the print. I do have a system understanding since I've got a MS EE degree and have pondered printer architecture closely. The thing is I get lost in complexity when the answer really is as simple as you reason! My bad, carry on... Les
  12. Oh that is too funny, hiding Pokemon in popular locations! I'll have to do that myself... Les
  13. I actually did post the question on Reddit of whether a UPS helps with print quality and the answer, which I kinda figured it would mostly be was no... The UPS will help with slow brownouts and such but the Power regulation plus stepper drivers plus the nature of the steppers themselves adds up to a system that does not flux with power changes, be they fast or slow. Makes sense to me. Les
  14. Version 1.0


    I cannot sell stuff for various reasons, so I realized a few days ago that there is nothing wrong with making and stockpiling goods for sale later. To that end I began designing and kranking out these gears. I happened to have hot pink (magenta) on the spool so I thought lady's gears would be kewl for starters. The smaller ones have weak small diameter shafts that tend to snap but the larger ones are tuff enuff. The axle of each has an inward taper at 45 degrees, an axle rising vertically, and an outer taper at 45 degrees. The vertical segment is of zero length on most how it worked out
  15. I'm not one who minds the print lines that much. I know that 0.1 mm layer height is way better than the 0.25mm that I print at with a 0.4mm nozzle, it's just that most prints really don't need that level of precision. It's kind of like we all want to pretend that we are not using 3D printers, that the parts are injection molded smooth and we are hiding the fact that they are 3D printed. I say celebrate the print lines - they are characteristic of our art so I welcome the print lines! I admire the print lines in fact, hahah. Well.. maybe not, they are non-idealities after all. Still, I
  16. I've got a big ole APC BACK-UPS 550 on my Ultimaker 2+. Ain't that the stuff? Under ideal conditions the UPS would not matter but I figure the power in anyplace could use a little helper on the input side of equipment. Say the power fluctuates - does the print quality change? That's a good reddit question. I may be wrong but I'd imagine it might have some effect on print details, however minor that may be. I just knew this printer was the best thing since sliced bread for my room / workshop and it will be years before I get another such toy so I thought it would be nice to protect it w
  17. MarcusWolschon, You may be aware of this trick. If you print PLA at 210 C on a 60 C bed, as is the Ultimaker 2+ default, and you let the bed cool to 30 C after printing, the item will just twist or slide right off of the glass easily. Therein lies the way! Les
  18. Version 1.0


    This fancy gizmo should really be called a Finger Rheostat because it acts like a variable resistor. You print the object in a base of PLA and an upper overhanging layer of Proto-Pasta electrically conductive PLA. Then you install it in a circuit squeeze and / or push it's coils around and they short together in such a way as to lower the resistance of the object. I used one to make a VCO and it works great! Les
  19. zoey89, there is a better technique. There is no need to stop mid=print and risk moving the print head as you describe. Just make two jobs, with the lettering subtracted from the background on the second job and registration marks for centering. Then use the zHop retraction setting set to 1mm or at least larger than the red color and it will turn out well in two colors, run as two separate but overlaid jobs. Les
  20. INTRO This is a really simple little trick that I just discovered and thought I would share. It turns out that after all the figuring out and trying of different bed substrates and all the experimentation, a technique has emerged for printing effectively in PLA. This technique is simply to print at your chosen nozzle temp (around 200 C or thereabouts) and with a plain glass bed temp of 60 C. That's right, a plain super clean bed at 60 C does the trick. Of course, you also have to let the print cool. It is the cleaning process and the cooling process for which I have suggestions. BED C
  21. "Alright" you say, "what am I supposed to do, to generate the CAD design for these circuit boards?" "Surely you don't suggest I draw them with a 3D printing CAD software, trace by laborious trace?" Right! I did do that for the test circuit board in OpenSCAD, and boy was it a labor of love AKA a pain in the rear! "There must be a better way!", I thought. And there was. First let me say that what is really and truly needed is a Gerber to STL or even Gerber to gCode translation utility. That's not so super difficult to make as Gerbers are basically mostly of the format go here in (X, Y)
  22. OK, let's get into it! First the 3D printing technique. The secret was revealed to me by Sander who suggested I read the following link: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/9172-multicolor-print where blecheimer describes a fantastic technique tor printing in multiple colors as long as those colors are all on the same plate of glass at the bottom of the print, great for a single layer board. blecheimer even identified the secret of this approach: Zhop! That's the number that specifies how high the print head is to "hop" in the "Z" direction at the beginning of each retraction (and back
  23. Have a look at this design's assembly drawing: And also this photograph of the physical 3D printed circuit: It's just a little demo print but it does have some nice features including double-sided board, vias, chip sockets of a new design, and translucent insulating "board" material. The yellow filament is just taking the place of real conducting filament which is being shipped to me now (I have 1.75mm graphene filament but it does me no good in the Ultimaker). I have developed both a printing methodology and a software workflow that together bridge the gap between the PCB design
  24. Version 1.0


    Single Nozzle Circuit Board Assembly Drawing
  25. Greetings Earthlings, take me to your nozzle supplier! OK, so I have poked around and found two types of nozzles that are wear resistant. First we have the plated brass nozzle (plated with steel), available from Proto-pasta here: https://www.proto-pasta.com/products/plated-brass-wear-resistant-nozzles ... and second we have the solid steel nozzle available from PrintedSolid here: https://printedsolid.com/products/e3dhardenednozzle?variant=7434732227. I emailed representatives from both suppliers and the story is that the solid steel nozzles are more durable while the plated steel n
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