luukakkerman

Hi all, and future readers, Oil might help but this is easier for the long run: ** Buy Yourself A PTFE Bowden Tube ** On my UM2+ I have printed NinjaFlex with mixed results a year ago. Last week I used it again for a new project and had difficulties finding the right settings. Adding 5-10% flow is essential but also on high temp and freshly cleaning (atomic pull) nozzle worked well 1 print, failed the next one etc. Under extrusion from the start or suddenly after quite some layers. With the clean nozzle the only problem could be the feeding. Cleaning the feeder and fresh undented NinjaFlex filament didnt fix it. So I expected the flex filament being spaghetti in the non-PTFE Ultimaker bowden tube would cause too much friction at those under-extrusion moment. And indeed, sometimes the filament looked to be pushed fairly straight, but often when under good pressure it curled in S-shape/zig-zag like way as the UM bowden inside dimater is larger than the 2.85-3mm filaments. I read good stories about the lower friction of PTFE tubes. Bought one (from the RepRap guys here in The Netherlands) and after install print was just fine. You also really feel the different in friction when you compare by feeding filaments through both. The one I bought from RepRap also has a smaller inside diameter I noticed, leaving less room for heavy zig-zag'ing which I think causes the heaviest friction. Buy yourself one if you have trouble. You need 73cm, they often are sold per 10cm. Only downside, they are not fully transparent. Translucent to almost solid white. If you really like to see your filament moving or spot dirt in your tube this might be a disadvantage. If not, nothing to loose here. Good luck guys

Hi future readers, Good settings. Used them to refresh my memory after a year of not printing NinjaFlex. Another tip: ** Buy Yourself A PTFE Bowden Tube ** On my UM2+ I have printed NinjaFlex with mixed results a year ago. Last week I used it again for a new project and had difficulties finding the right settings. Adding 5-10% flow is essential but also on high temp and freshly cleaning (atomic pull) nozzle worked well 1 print, failed the next one etc. Under extrusion from the start or suddenly after quite some layers. With the clean nozzle the only problem could be the feeding. Cleaning the feeder and fresh undented NinjaFlex filament didnt fix it. So I expected the flex filament being spaghetti in the non-PTFE Ultimaker bowden tube would cause too much friction at those under-extrusion moment. And indeed, sometimes the filament looked to be pushed fairly straight, but often when under good pressure it curled in S-shape/zig-zag like way as the UM bowden inside dimater is larger than the 2.85-3mm filaments. I read good stories about the lower friction of PTFE tubes. Bought one (from the RepRap guys here in The Netherlands) and after install print was just fine. You also really feel the different in friction when you compare by feeding filaments through both. The one I bought from RepRap also has a smaller inside diameter I noticed, leaving less room for heavy zig-zag'ing which I think causes the heaviest friction. Buy yourself one if you have trouble. You need 73cm, they often are sold per 10cm. Only downside, they are not fully transparent. Translucent to almost solid white. If you really like to see your filament moving or spot dirt in your tube this might be a disadvantage. If not, nothing to loose here. Good luck guys

Hi all, and future readers, ** Buy Yourself A PTFE Bowden Tube ** On my UM2+ I have printed NinjaFlex with mixed results a year ago. Last week I used it again for a new project and had difficulties finding the right settings. Adding 5-10% flow is essential but also on high temp and freshly cleaning (atomic pull) nozzle worked well 1 print, failed the next one etc. Under extrusion from the start or suddenly after quite some layers. With the clean nozzle the only problem could be the feeding. Cleaning the feeder and fresh undented NinjaFlex filament didnt fix it. So I expected the flex filament being spaghetti in the non-PTFE Ultimaker bowden tube would cause too much friction at those under-extrusion moment. And indeed, sometimes the filament looked to be pushed fairly straight, but often when under good pressure it curled in S-shape/zig-zag like way as the UM bowden inside dimater is larger than the 2.85-3mm filaments. I read good stories about the lower friction of PTFE tubes. Bought one (from the RepRap guys here in The Netherlands) and after install print was just fine. You also really feel the different in friction when you compare by feeding filaments through both. The one I bought from RepRap also has a smaller inside diameter I noticed, leaving less room for heavy zig-zag'ing which I think causes the heaviest friction. Buy yourself one if you have trouble. You need 73cm, they often are sold per 10cm. Only downside, they are not fully transparent. Translucent to almost solid white. If you really like to see your filament moving or spot dirt in your tube this might be a disadvantage. If not, nothing to loose here. Good luck guys

Hi all, Getting more experienced with my UM2+ every day and have encountered and solved loads of the beginner problems, often with great help of this great community over here. Very very helpful. A question that I cannot find yet on the forum (correct me if i'm wrong) is if there is a way to have a layer countdown timer on the LCD display. The load bar and countdown timer is of course the most useful indicator to see the status of your print, but sometimes it is very usefull to know the layer height: - If you see a problem occuring with the print or printer, you cannot know which layer to check in Cura to check the tool path - If you in/decrease the speed setting on the UM2, the timer is often not very accurate. Knowing the current layer height can give you a better estimation yourself for simpler models. - If you plan a Z-stop for whatever reason you have for this, with a z-counter on screen you can check once in a while if you are almost there. Looking forward to hear if anybody has had this question before! Happy printing.

In my experience you can gain most by sanding the rubber contact surface to be glued. As with all (non-printed) rubber parts to glue, increasing the surface on micro-level by sanding will improve the bond. Smooth surfaces are the hardest to glue, especially when the solvent in the glue does not work on the material itself.

Old thread, but always new viewers using the search command: Reprapworld.com is selling the original Ninjaflex and semi-flex. = Low shipping costs for the Dutch community and countries closeby. Works perfect for now on UM2+ (240 degrees, 20mm/s, no retraction). Only printed relatively small parts untill now though. Cannot judge for bigger parts.