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MTG

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Posts posted by MTG

  1. Hi,

    I was printing a housing when this happened:

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xeIf1RU8wTKBekbVRKasV_rwXLKBobR1ww/view?usp=sharing

     

    When you look through the gcode, it's seems okay. The Z Values appear in the right order without the gap . Why does it do that? It's an 10 hour print ant it was all fine for like 7 hours and then this started?

    And why does it go back don again for the wall?

    Is it an Octoprint Error?

    The simulation in Cura does not show this behavior neither, I have checked this.

     

    Printed with Cura 3.3.1. My Gcode and Settings file attached.

     

    Edit: okay, for every island it does liek a z-hop without going down. On the layer change it goes back to the correct layer. I can't figure out whats wrong here

     

    profile.curaprofile

    CFDMP_Gehause_Oberteil.gcode

  2. I don't know if I just cant find the  option or if it does not exist - you can choose outline before inline and folll before inline.

    I have unchecked both, because it should be inline, outline and then fill (as usual).

     

    When I have a part with a hole, it prints like following:

    part inline

    hole inline

    part outline

    hole outline

    fill

     

    But thats a waste of time in my opinion and it creates more z-seams, so I want that it prints like:

    part inline

    part outline

    hole inline

    hole outline

    fill

     

    Is this possible?

  3. Hi,

    I have a short question about the possibility to modify the existing Fans on the UM2+ (Extended) (bought January 2016) printhead. I have read multiple threads bout it and now I'm kind of confused.

    As far as I know, the small cooling fan (which turns on when the Printhead has like 40°C) is 5V.

    Can I replace it with that one (which is bigger): https://www.digikey.de/product-detail/de/delta-electronics/AFB03505HA-A/603-1273-ND/2560397 ?

    The other two cooling fans are (as far as I know) 12V. I have read, that they may have been updated to 24V - don't know if thats true. If I'm right and they are 12 V, can I replace them with these:https://www.digikey.de/product-detail/de/delta-electronics/BFB0412HHA-A117/603-1840-ND/5022816 ?

    I think that are the ones used in this mod.

    Thanks in advance.

  4. Hi,

    we consider to get an Ultimaker 3 in near future, therefore we are selling our Ultimaker 2+ Extended.

    It was purchased at the beginnig of 2016, guess it has'nt that much runtime sind then (see photo, don't know if its right, made an firmware upgrade in summer 2016, we are printing like 1 to 2 parts a week).

    We did buy the top enclosure, the front door is made by myself and it's magnetic. Did use the original holes, so it could be set back to original.

    Did not have any problems so far. The heated bed was broken at January 2017, a new (original) one was installed (guess it was slightly updated since purchasing).

    The price is 2100 € + tax. We would prefer selling it to germany. If you are interested, please contact me. We can ship it as soon as we have or new printer.

    Edit: Sorry, forgot the pictures: https://imgur.com/a/BHYqP

  5. Hi Community,

    i'm sorry because this thread is not really ultimaker related. Maybe someone cant help me anyways:

    I recently purchased a SLS 3d printer (DTM Sinterstation 2000) and i'm searching for a supllier of PA12 powder for testing. Just searching on the internet is not giving me much results, so i thought maybe someone here has a hint, where i could ask...

  6. Hi,

    thank you!

    The engineering is done, I just dind't find the time to build it! Working hard on my bachelor thesis right now, finishing at the end of July.

    I'm checking if someone of our employes has the time right now to make the parts as I can't at the moment. But if you are interested, I could show you some more detail of the latest design. Maybe someone has any advice?

  7. Hi Chiranjeevi,

    I also thoght about that. But the solenoid consumes power all the time when activated, because you need a current to create the magnetic field. I'm not sure if that is a problem (maybe heat or power supply) but I didn't like that.

    The 3mm might be enough that the unneeded nozzle doesn't influence your print, but the main Idea behind the covering is that you don't need to wipe and you wont have a wipe tower. Additionally, you don't have to cool the nozzles down. That consumes a lot of time.

    My design is easier with two moving nozzles, because the cover can keep it's height. If you don't need a cover I recommend you to move only one nozzle. It saves you a lot of parts and effort and that's more important than a symmetrical design. With the Tinkergnome Firmware you can configure a height for each nozzle seperatly, as far as I know.

    To my project: I replaced the stepper with a lever. Engineering 90% done, but our cnc-machines are not free atm. Expecting to make the prototype in Feb' 16.

  8. Aaahhh.... great idea... With the use of PBI yo on the same track than me, but I'd like to apply the PBI parts to my beloved UMO :-)

    My first thought was just to replace the PEEK and PTFE parts with PBI, but I also think it is not worth the invest...

    Do you think that these parts will also work with PEEK or PTFE?

    With PBI I was pretty sure about that, but I can't tell with PEEK or PTFE...

  9. Design.thumb.PNG.4ef3348f3a56f6b988b391b6fcda084d.PNG

    I have made a design for the UM2 for dual extrusion which uses nozzle lift and a cover which prevents oozing. I have changed it so far that you don't need an stepper motor anymore, the mechanism is controlled by a lever on the back side. For the tool change, the printhead does a special move to throw the lever. Then the nozzle lifts and gets covered.

    I'm that far that the complete mechanism fits in the printhead and is ready for a prototype.

    That mod does not require any build space in x,y but 5 mm in z. The only problem to solve is the heat brake.

    I can't use the standard design as the nozzle gets lifted and I don't want to waste space in z-direction. At first I thought stainless steel would be okay, but I understood now that the heat zone should be as small as possible. Then I thought PBI is good, but I think thats too pricey.

    • Like 1
  10. Wow thanks a lot that's really an option! I consider buying this in combination with the bondtech dual drive (like neotko uses them for 1,75mm, but in 2,85mm). As the bondtech parts are quite expensive I might machine them by myself.

    But before I get to the feeders I have to finish my dual printhead. It's almost done, I just have to rethink the heat brake..

    • Like 1
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