Katieb
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Posts posted by Katieb
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I think this is a pretty common operation so there is a lot of options.
Thank you so so much!!
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Hi guys,
So i came across this image and was blown away at the detail - does anyone know how this would have been achieved? I cant imagine someone actually designing it.
Is there a software that can trace or scan an image?
I ask as I have been asked to make embossers for businesses and would love to be able to do it as effectivley, accurately and quickly as possible.
Thanks
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What sander said. Also you can uncheck the "lock" symbol when scaling and only scale up one or two axes instead of all 3 but I dont' think that will help you. I think you need to scale the cad model.
So, I would need to adjust my initial model (lets say its a 3") for the 3.5", 4" and 4.5"? Eugh, that sounds like a lot of work - considering I have hundreds of designs :/
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Hi Katieb,
Thank you for your post.
I am not entirely sure I understand what you mean. Do you want to be able to scale it up and down, but thave the 'wall / brim' remain the same in size?
That is certainly doable, but just not in Cura. You would have to do this in your CAD modeling software.
Sorry - Im not sure how to explain myself.
Yes, I would like to be able to scale the overall width and height of a design without it effecting the wall thickness and brim (the bottom of the cutter).
I use DesignSpark - is it at all possible to do it in that program?
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Creality made a cheap clone of the Deezmaker Bukito about a year or more ago. The link you posted looks like Creality used that same design, but now with a new base incorporating the power supply inside the base section. The original design had a small base with a separate brick PS.
I have a Bukito, and it's nice for portability (you can break it down to fit into a biefcase fast). But that's all I use it for. It requires a lot more hands-on tending during print than my UM2 machines, and the resulting prints aren't as accurate.
I've read some good and some bad reviews of Creality machines, which is fitting because they're chinese hit-or-miss systems. Some may work well for a while, some may be junk. Who knows.
And I expect the laser engraver part of that macine will not perform to your expectations. Do they have any realtime videos of the laser performing? Or dies it show the laser starting, then transition magically to the end result (no telling how long the small laser project actually took?)
As far as lasers go, I expect tge one they include is anywhere from .5 to 2 watts. You can get a 40W entire CO2 laser machine that cuts through plastics and 1/4" plywood for $350, so I think it's a wasted effort trying to incorporate a diode laser into a 3d printer.
Just my opinion from limited experience with lasers and printers. What about a UMO+? That should fit into your budget pretty well. There are many satisfied owners.
Thanks - to be honest im not fussed about the engraver - I would never use it!
Is there a particular Ultimaker you would recommend?
Ive looked at them but know very little about them aside from knowing that they are popular.
Cheers
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Hey guys,
I make cookie cutters and design them a certain size however I offer them in generally 4 different sizes (3". 3.5", 4" and 4.5").
The problem im having is when I scale the original size up or down, I occasionally find holes in my top edge and my bottom edge shrinks or expands.
Is there a way to basically change the ratio as for as scaling (the height always remains the same).
Ive attached pics as an example.
The cross was printed to the scale I created it however the tomato was printed scaled down by about 1" (the height was adjusted after scaling).
You can see the rim of the tomato is much narrower at about 4mm and the cross is 6mm which leaves my end product less sturdy.
Any suggestions would be hugely appreciated. I use Cura Lulzbot Edition to scale and print.
Cheers
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Hey guys ,
Im after a new machine - I currently have the Cocoon Create - the machine sold through Aldi stores earlier this year. Its actually a great machine however I do need another one.
Based on my criteria which was:
- minimum bed of 20 x20
- heated bed
- max AU$1000
- fast
- very good quality prints - the Cocoon prints really well for a budget machine.
I was told that this was a good machine - can anyone offer any words of advice in this model?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/322167079023?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649
Whilst I wish I had more money to spend - at this stage I simply dont.
Is there another model/s I should be looking at?
TIA
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Great, thanks for the tip
Ill be sure to check it out
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Hey there,
I really need some advice please!!
I use Design Spark to draw all my prints. I love the interface, its very user friendly and I get great results. The issue I have is that I design for other people and once I have saved the design, I cannot edit it if my customer wants to make changes. Im going crazy and wasting a heck of a lot of time re-drawing the designs.
So, is there a really simple, very easy program I can use to edit my stl or rsdoc?
I have played with Meshmixer and Blender but its all too complex for me!
Thanking you all
Cheers
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Thanks for your replies guys & girls
I dont use glue and I dont have a glass bed, but yes, it is the side thats facing the bed.
There are no obvious holes or gauges in my bed surface so im not sure what is going on.
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Hey there,
Anyone know whats causing this pitting problem? Its driving me crazy!!
TIA
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Eeek!! Is there no one that can help me out here?? Please??
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Hello again,
Can I please ask for help with this one...Ive been asked to make the following design into a cutter. Im down with the cutters themselves now (as in the outside cutter) however this has internal framework that is used to make an impression in the cookie.
Ive tried everything that my brain can muster up to make this work however I am really struggling to work out how to achieve this.
Ive attached the design and also an example of how it is to look.
I use Designspark but also have Blender and Meshmixer if thats going to help my cause.
Thanks again
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Don't run bed leveling - just turn the 3 screws 1/4 turn counter clockwise as seen from below. You want the bottom layer squished slightly - not rope shaped. You want it more pancake shaped.
To get stunningly perfect bottom layers takes a lot of experimentation but basically you want to change the bottom layer thickness from .3mm to .1mm and you have to play with those 3 knobs whlie printing the first layer and you have to cancel the print and repeat maybe 10 times until you get it perfect. If you do the leveling procedure you will wreck it and have to start over. Basically with a .3mm bottom layer thickness getting the bottom layer accurate to .2mm is okay and accurate to within .1mm is great. But with a .1mm bottom layer you want to get the leveling accurate to about .03mm which is incredibly accurate for this machine and might not be achievable (tiny warps in the rods and glass).
Anyway stick to .3mm bottom layer for now and just move that glass up a 1/4 turn.
What temp was your glass? For PLA I recommend 60C - for ABS 100C.
Thank you! My bed was set at 63 (PLA) but ive reduced that to 60 and re adjusted the bed. So far so good
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Looks like your bed is simply a bit too far from the nozzle. Try running the bed leveling wizard again or manually adjust the three thumbscrews underneath the build platform while the printer is laying down the first layer.
That's assuming that the top layer and sides of the print look good.
Hmm, ok. the top layer and the sides are all good. I thought my nozzle was pretty close - doing the whole slide a piece of paper between the bed and nozzle trick - but ill give this a go, thanks
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Hey there,
Hoping you guys and girls can help me out again...
Ive printed quite a few cutters lately however I am getting really ugly finishes.
I dont use a raft or brim when printing as I dont find it necessary however a skirt is printed. I have scraggly pieces everywhere and the bottom layer looks messy.
Also, I honestly have no idea what the bottom layer is supposed to look like - ive had two results, which ive attached. The only difference in settings was the smoother result had a hotter bed when printing.
I prefer the smoother look but dont know how else to achieve it as if the bed is too hot, the filament curls and warps (I do have the fan on).
Any feedback would be greatly appreciated
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I love DSM as well, and did you know you can also import modify .stp files (like the Ultimaker design files)
look here:
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/3772-spaceclaim?page=2#reply-54816
I didnt know that! thank you
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Oh wow! Fantastic, thank you so much! I'll try everything you suggested and see how it goes
Do you mind if I get back to you with the results?I searched around for software that I was comfortable with and found DSM to be a perfect fit for me, especially considering how new I am to all this. Its very user friendly and I love that I can import pictures to trace
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Hey guys, im hoping you might be able to help me out with a little issue ive got.
Please excuse my ignorance when it comes to the correct terms used - im a newb and still coming to grips with this technology!
Ok, so im printing (well, trying to) a cookie cutter.
I have no trouble obtaining the shape however I cannot seem to get my edge right. Ive tried putting a chamfer on the edge but didnt have much luck with that so I tried to create an outer wall next to the inner wall but make the outer wall thicker and slightly lower then the inner wall. It all looks good on the graphic but when printing, the two edges end up being the same height, resulting in a thickess of .6mm.
The inner wall is .2mm and the outer .4mm - the idea was to have the inner slightly thinner to give a nice cut.
Ive tried adjusting the shell thickness in Cura and the bottom/top thickness but I get the same result.
Im sure this is a simple thing to rectify but I just dont know how!
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated - or any other suggestions on how to achieve my desired end result
Adjusting ratios
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted
Interesting way of putting it.
Ive worked out that I cant do it in Cura - its just that in design spark, you cant edit the files so I would basically have to re draw them 4 times.