Tim_bc

I'm struggling a bit to print this at the moment. I get a hollow test pyramid going no problem, and usually right at the transition from the base to the pillars my hotend stops extruding the filament. I'm printing @ 20 mm/s 245 C 0.1 layers Did you ever get it sorted?? Anyone have any tips?

I never actually considered this to be honest. I'll have to spend some time trying to create a more gradual transition and see the results. That being said, I've done 100 micron to 40 micron transitions countless times with never having an issue, but certainly something to consider. Thanks for the input!

Thanks for the input everyone I appreciate it!

I will check this first thing in the morning! Thanks for the insight, hopefully this is it

Now, I know this seems stupid and should be obvious, but apparently not for me I'm printing a case for a Reach RTK Module, and the print is really straight forward.... Well, at least I thought it was... I separated the print into two processes. I consistently have a line show up where the two processes change over. I've adjusted the second process to have 1 base layer, 1 top layer and the finish seems good, but I always have a line show up right where the two processes change over. I have the 2nd process printing at 100%. I've tried different resolutions, and slicers. Cura handles this horribly unfortunately. Clearly, I'm missing something here, anyone with better experience able to comment on the link provided? Any help would be really appreciated! Thanks, Tim https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0ByQ6OKsy-cVCaVFFMDJIR2xjQ2M

Awesome, Thanks guys!

Thanks, but I'm trying to avoid ABS if at all possible. Thanks though, Tim

Great link! Thank you, I'll be taking at look at this soon.

Thanks, I'll look into some ngen. Cheers, Tim

Hi guys, I was hoping someone off hand knew what the maximum temperature PLA can be exposed too after printing and still function properly. I have a friend who built a custom projector fan shroud, but it will be experiencing temperatures of 65-degree celsius. I checked the colorfabb spec sheets and all it says is less than 155 degrees celsius..... If anyone happens to know from experience it would be greatly appreciated. Thank you! Tim

Thanks gr5, Eventually was able to get the large footprint prints to stay put, but it has been a struggle. My semester is wrapping up in 2 weeks, so I am going to spend some time fine tuning my printer big time. I really appreciate the responses, thank you very much. Cheers, Tim

Hi Chris, Keep in mind this is with a 0.3 initial layer, normally I try to do a much smaller layer to be honest. Plus, I have attempted to square the frame on several occasions, and it definitely seems to have helped. I've been using ColorFabb almost exclusively since I've started printing. I just like the silky smooth appearance it gives when it's done correctly. For this brim, I believe I actually raised the initial layer temp to 215C after reading what others do. I usually do my brim at 205 because I tend to print slowly, and after the initial layers, I will go 195C with 20mm/s print head speed. The heated bed is at 65C, I've pretty much stuck with the bed temp at that since I started. For some reason, I was never able to go below 65C without issues.... After some additional reading, I've made up a batch of Elmer's wood glue with water mixture that gr5 was talking about in a separate thread. I have to admit, I'm pleasantly surprised with how strong it seems for adhesion... The part I've been having trouble with, I've decided to give another go after another attempt of straightening the frame, and armed with the glue/water mixture. It's a 36-hour print, and I only have 10 hours to go, and things are looking very promising thus far... Fingers crossed I'll post a pic when it's done

Hi Peggyb, That's pretty much exactly what I do now to be honest. The pictures is the best I could get the brim adjusted too. Some areas are squished nicely, and other areas are a bit ropey... It's the whole reason I think my frame is not square. The bed will be levelled 100%, and yet I still get an uneven brim/first layer. I know there is also a slight warp in the glass due to a screw not being 100%, but the good folks at Ultimaker have sent me a replacement for that, so fingers crossed when I get the glass and re-square the frame again things will come together. In the mean time hopefully someone who has also experienced this situation will be able to provide some insight/advice as where to go. Thanks again for the response!

Ok, So I finally had time to print off the brim today and get a few pictures. I apologize if the quality of the pictures is not very good, unfortunately, I only have my phone, but if you need better quality pictures I'll try and borrow one from a friend. https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0ByQ6OKsy-cVCT0VZVjdVX245T1E&usp=sharing I shared the pictures from my google drive, unfortunately, I wasn't sure how to add them here :/ The top left and top right are pretty big differences in layer height, well at least it appears so. top right is squished nicely, but the top left is a bit ropey so to say.;... If these pics help identify what anyone may think is going on I would greatly appreciate hearing your thoughts... I have myself pretty convinced at this point, but I'm nowhere nearly experienced as most of you guys Thanks! Tim

Thanks a lot for the tips! Great info! I have been using extra strength hairspray and glue sticks, and this has never been an issue before. I can only assume due to the large footprint it is showing the slight leveling imperfections.... I was going to pick up some elmers wood glue later today to give that a try based on reading a different thread where you mentioned it was your favorite. Overall, I love my printer and it performs very well on small to medium sized footprints, but these larger footprints have just been a nightmare for me. I'll get some pictures later today and post, Thanks again!