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Everything posted by Tim_bc

  1. I'm struggling a bit to print this at the moment. I get a hollow test pyramid going no problem, and usually right at the transition from the base to the pillars my hotend stops extruding the filament. I'm printing @ 20 mm/s 245 C 0.1 layers Did you ever get it sorted?? Anyone have any tips?
  2. I never actually considered this to be honest. I'll have to spend some time trying to create a more gradual transition and see the results. That being said, I've done 100 micron to 40 micron transitions countless times with never having an issue, but certainly something to consider. Thanks for the input!
  3. Thanks for the input everyone I appreciate it!
  4. I will check this first thing in the morning! Thanks for the insight, hopefully this is it
  5. Now, I know this seems stupid and should be obvious, but apparently not for me I'm printing a case for a Reach RTK Module, and the print is really straight forward.... Well, at least I thought it was... I separated the print into two processes. I consistently have a line show up where the two processes change over. I've adjusted the second process to have 1 base layer, 1 top layer and the finish seems good, but I always have a line show up right where the two processes change over. I have the 2nd process printing at 100%. I've tried different resolutions, and slicers. Cura handles this horribly unfortunately. Clearly, I'm missing something here, anyone with better experience able to comment on the link provided? Any help would be really appreciated! Thanks, Tim https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0ByQ6OKsy-cVCaVFFMDJIR2xjQ2M
  6. Thanks, but I'm trying to avoid ABS if at all possible. Thanks though, Tim
  7. Great link! Thank you, I'll be taking at look at this soon.
  8. Thanks, I'll look into some ngen. Cheers, Tim
  9. Hi guys, I was hoping someone off hand knew what the maximum temperature PLA can be exposed too after printing and still function properly. I have a friend who built a custom projector fan shroud, but it will be experiencing temperatures of 65-degree celsius. I checked the colorfabb spec sheets and all it says is less than 155 degrees celsius..... If anyone happens to know from experience it would be greatly appreciated. Thank you! Tim
  10. Thanks gr5, Eventually was able to get the large footprint prints to stay put, but it has been a struggle. My semester is wrapping up in 2 weeks, so I am going to spend some time fine tuning my printer big time. I really appreciate the responses, thank you very much. Cheers, Tim
  11. Hi Chris, Keep in mind this is with a 0.3 initial layer, normally I try to do a much smaller layer to be honest. Plus, I have attempted to square the frame on several occasions, and it definitely seems to have helped. I've been using ColorFabb almost exclusively since I've started printing. I just like the silky smooth appearance it gives when it's done correctly. For this brim, I believe I actually raised the initial layer temp to 215C after reading what others do. I usually do my brim at 205 because I tend to print slowly, and after the initial layers, I will go 195C with 20mm/s print head speed. The heated bed is at 65C, I've pretty much stuck with the bed temp at that since I started. For some reason, I was never able to go below 65C without issues.... After some additional reading, I've made up a batch of Elmer's wood glue with water mixture that gr5 was talking about in a separate thread. I have to admit, I'm pleasantly surprised with how strong it seems for adhesion... The part I've been having trouble with, I've decided to give another go after another attempt of straightening the frame, and armed with the glue/water mixture. It's a 36-hour print, and I only have 10 hours to go, and things are looking very promising thus far... Fingers crossed I'll post a pic when it's done
  12. Hi Peggyb, That's pretty much exactly what I do now to be honest. The pictures is the best I could get the brim adjusted too. Some areas are squished nicely, and other areas are a bit ropey... It's the whole reason I think my frame is not square. The bed will be levelled 100%, and yet I still get an uneven brim/first layer. I know there is also a slight warp in the glass due to a screw not being 100%, but the good folks at Ultimaker have sent me a replacement for that, so fingers crossed when I get the glass and re-square the frame again things will come together. In the mean time hopefully someone who has also experienced this situation will be able to provide some insight/advice as where to go. Thanks again for the response!
  13. Ok, So I finally had time to print off the brim today and get a few pictures. I apologize if the quality of the pictures is not very good, unfortunately, I only have my phone, but if you need better quality pictures I'll try and borrow one from a friend. https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0ByQ6OKsy-cVCT0VZVjdVX245T1E&usp=sharing I shared the pictures from my google drive, unfortunately, I wasn't sure how to add them here :/ The top left and top right are pretty big differences in layer height, well at least it appears so. top right is squished nicely, but the top left is a bit ropey so to say.;... If these pics help identify what anyone may think is going on I would greatly appreciate hearing your thoughts... I have myself pretty convinced at this point, but I'm nowhere nearly experienced as most of you guys Thanks! Tim
  14. Thanks a lot for the tips! Great info! I have been using extra strength hairspray and glue sticks, and this has never been an issue before. I can only assume due to the large footprint it is showing the slight leveling imperfections.... I was going to pick up some elmers wood glue later today to give that a try based on reading a different thread where you mentioned it was your favorite. Overall, I love my printer and it performs very well on small to medium sized footprints, but these larger footprints have just been a nightmare for me. I'll get some pictures later today and post, Thanks again!
  15. Hey Guys, Sorry guys, I was in a rush and frustrated when I wrote the question.... I'll take some pictures tomorrow after my exam, and go from there. I have verified my rods are square to each other with alignment tools, and the bed is leveled perfectly according to a 3d level. gr5, how your explaining the birm is exactly what is happening. Currently, I have the initial layer set to .3 to try and help with initial layers. I've tried manually adjusting the bed on the fly, but can never seem to get the correct balance on these larger prints. Once again, I'll print off the brim tomorrow after my exams and take a few pictures to post. I've also talked to the shop manager at school and he has confirmed I can bring the printer in there to square the frame, as he has several locations where there are 100% level surfaces to use. Thanks for the responses, and I will print off the brim tomorrow to post some pics. Thanks again, Tim
  16. Hey Guys, So...... I've been using my Ultimaker 2 Extended for a while now, and have been very happy with the performance of the machine.... Well, until about 3 days ago I've been very happy..... Long story short, I've had a few requests for larger prints, and this was the first time I was going to do a print which covered basically the entire print volume. I kept getting failure after failure, and could not understand what was going on. I've checked the glass and it has the slighest warp in it, and I had a screw that was not completely flush with the print bed. So I fixed the screw hole and made the screw flush, recalibrated everything and failure after failure again.... I did some reading, and found a few threads here about people experiencing simliar issues, and after spending the last 3 days have come to the conclusion my frame is bent. It wasn't until now I've discovered this because all of my prints have generally been a small footprint, and they turned out great.... I've done the typical loosen all screws holding the frame together and tried banging the corners with my hand trying to encourage the frame to become square, but it simply does not seem to want to happen. I've also had a significant amount of trouble trying to find a perfectly level spot to do this... Any suggestions on this? I've tried squaring the frame several times, and each time after tightening the screws I experience the same issues..... I know for a fact my bed is being levelled properly as after I run through the routine I check it with a level in all three dimensions and it comes out perfect.... So it must be the frame not being square right? This is becoming a serious pain in the ass, as I have had to cancel some prints for people because the printer cannot reliably print a large footprint... Does anyone have any suggestions how to approach this problem? Because honestly, the printer does me no good if I cannot print large volumes. I might aswell bought a Go.... or regular Ultimaker 2. The benefit of having the larger print volume is null and void. I'm seriously getting frustrated as I need to figure this out. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. At the moment, my biggest challenge is trying to find a spot that is perfectly level to square the frame..... Also, when I do find a spot that is perfectly level, how aggressive should I be in banging the frame? It appears everything I've done so far has had little to no effect whatsoever.... Thanks if advance!~
  17. Hi, Sorry for the delayed response, school has been nuts :/ I've been using ColorFabb PLA/PHA for acetone dipping like Cloakfiend demonstrated in his videos.... It seems around 30-40 seconds fully submerged is the magic number for what I've been doing so far.... That being said I have pushed it further and the models start to crack, so I think I'll be sticking with 30-40 seconds for now lol..... Now I have to figure out what to do with an uneven glass plate. I never noticed before because my prints were generally not that large, but now I have an order for a few items where the footprint is the entire bed, and I've been going insane trying to figure out what is wrong.... Once again, sorry for the delay in responding, Cheers,
  18. HI, Awesome thread! Some of your finished prints are stunning. I've started experimenting with actetone dipping thanks to this thread, and honestly with a little sanding I'm blown away at the results! Really appreciate you sharing some of your knowledge, it has significantly improved our finished results. Thanks! Keep posting prints
  19. Awesome, Thanks for the information guys! Greatly appreciated, and I've read some of the troubleshooting guide, but will need to get into it more next week when I'll have a lot more time. Thanks again!
  20. Thank you for taking the time, I did end up reading last night cura slowly ramps fan speeds up to full by the 5mm height mark I believe. So the progression you've explained makes a lot of sense. I'll have to experiment with some prints before I go for something big. It's funny, because I felt like I was starting to get excellent results fairly consistently from Cura, but the manual supports and ability to control virtually everything in the process is a major draw towards Simplify3D. I've also been using hairspray since I switched to ColorFabb, and it works very well, so I'm happy about not having to use a brim. Now to just find some time to get accustom to simplify Thanks again!
  21. Hi, Like many of you I've taken the plunge and have started using simplify3d. I must admit, the amount of settings that can be configured is a bit overwhelming right now, but I'm sure I'll get the hang of it soon enough. I tried searching the forum, but I'm having a hard time finding threads about the best approach when it comes to cooling etc. I understand the first few layers I want to keep the fans off or to a minimum for better bed adhesion, but after that I assumed I should max the fan speed out..... It cannot be this easy can it? I guess I'm slightly confused to be honest. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to approach the cooling settings in simplify3D? In particular, are there ideal layer heights where you would increase/decrease fan speeds? Would the geometry of the print itself have to be taken into account when determining fan speeds for layer heights etc? Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
  22. Hi Guys, First post :/ I've recently purchased a used Ultimaker 2 Extended knowing this upgrade kit was in the pipeline. We were fortunate enough to get one of the first extrusion upgrade kits available in Canada. Just a couple things I might point out regarding the upgrade videos. Firstly, I thought overall they were very well made, however just a couple minor details I noticed which threw me off when I performed the upgrade last night. In the videos, when the cables were 'disconnected' they came off ridiculously easy (simply because they were never actually connected in the first place), and this was a bit misleading to me. I honestly had no idea how to disconnect the cables at first and thought I was doing something wrong. After a bit of tinkering, and making sure I could see the connections properly I did eventually realize how I was suppose to get them off easy. A little 30 second 'if you've never disconnected these types of connections before, do this......' would have really helped for dummies like me and it would have been nice to know the size of the socket wrenched used. After that, the upgrade was smooth sailing! Like I said, I thought the videos were really well done. I'll be putting the printer through its paces starting NOW Thanks!
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