PrintingRevo

Sehr merkwürdig, dass du derartige Probleme mit PLA bei 70 Grad Heizbett-Temperatur hast. Ich hatte das bisher wirklich noch nie bei PLA. Habe deinen Post extra nochmal durchgelesen und dann gesehen, dass du wirklich mit PLA druckst. Von ABS kenne ich die Thematik mit Warping zu gut. Eventuell würde ich die generelle Druckgeschwindigkeit verringern. Ich drucke derzeit alles 24/7 mit max. 40 mm/s bei 0,15 Schichthöhe, 215 Grad Extruder, 62 Grad Betttemperatur mit einem 0,4er Nozzle bei meinem Ultimaker 2. Das Bett ist bei mir mit einer dünnen Schicht Haarspray behandelt. Seit 3 Wochen Dauerdruck hält die alle Teile wunderbar am Glas. Vielleicht hast du aber auch das Bett nicht richtig gelevelt und der Abstand ist minimal zu groß, sodass die Schichten nicht richtig angepresst werden. Die erste Schicht ist bei mir teilweise fast pergamentartig, weil der Abstand vom Nozzle zur Druckplatte sehr gering ist.

Hey guys, I made another Star Wars helmet from Rogue One. This time its the Shoretrooper Helmet. Watch this video in 4K to see how it turned out: Hope you enjoy! Best regards

Hey guys, I recently printed a very nice model of a Deathtrooper as seen in Star Wars Rogue One. After I had it nicely finished, I fooled around a little bit and ended up shooting a few scenes with it and my car. I think the Deathtroopers would love a black Audi Check the video here: Best regards

Hey guys, I have recently made a Halo ODST Helmet, which is fully wearable and even has light effects. I made a video, in which I display the result and talk about the building process. Hope you enjoy!

Thank you, Sander. It was a lot of work, but definitely worth the effort in the end These are the LEDs I have at the moment: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00N9WEY0S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 To be honest for the blue lights with the solid casings they are absolutely fine, but the pink 5mm LEDs for the needles are too weak for sure. In the original instructions on thingiverse the guy uses some 11,1V 10mm LEDs that were not available overhere, which is why I searched for an alternative. I guess for most projects you cannot beat the price of the ones I ended up using and you can easily use them with two AA batteries at 3,2-3,3V without having to solder some resistor in between. For the finishing I always use laminating epoxy resin and automotive putty and then 240-600 Grid sandpaper. It still takes forever to sand everything if you print at 0.15 - 0.2 mm. If i want the surface to be even smoother, I use some primer and then sand that even more. I put them on display in my appartment actually. At the moment the needler sits right next to the Captain Phasma helmet :)No, I dont go to any cons, but maybe if I am able to complete any sort of costume, I will dress up for carneval

Hey guys, I have recently printed parts for a 1:1 Replica of the Needler Gun from the Halo game series. It was a lot of work, especially the sanding and soldering all of the LEDs together in there. However, as always I have made a video about it. Hope you enjoy it Best regards, Alex

Dear all, I have recently discovered a guide which suggests all sorts of modifications to the Ultimaker for enhanced performance. You can find it here: https://github.com/StrawsonDesign/Ultimaker2_Mods/blob/master/Ultimaker%202%20Experiences%20and%20modifications.pdf One of the best suggestions is to change the feeder wheel in the back of the feeder. The new part leaves a nice gap for the filament to drop into, but naturally the diameter at that point is smaller. So they suggest to edit the firmware, namely to "change the feeder motor steps/mm" to a value of 327. I have never done any modifications to the firmware, nor do I know how to manually upload the files to the printer. The explanations in the guide file are inconclusive. Can anyone point me in the right direction on what I need to do? In this screenshot you can see the necessary modification: Best regards

I figured something like that already. Would be amazing if there was a firmware release that would just take the upgraded feeder into consideration for the UM2. Yes, I have loosened those screws a tad bit already, but depending on the filament it still grinds down sometimes. I think it may also have something to do with the flow through the nozzle though as you can sometimes hear a lot of retraction going on. Maybe, I will just start with the Olsson Block as a first upgrade since I mainly do large prints at the moment and I think that 0.6 - 0.8mm nozzle would really help.

Hey there, in my case, the current feeder of the old Ultimaker 2 is giving me the most trouble with some filaments that are a bit stiffer than the officially endorsed Ultimaker Filaments by Innofil. So, my question is, would it be possible to just sell the upgraded feeder mechanism? I think that in combination with the Olsson block would make the most sense for me as of now. I have quite a few projects in the pipeline and would really love to recommend the Ultimaker 2 through my Youtube Videos, but at the moment Im just a bit frustrated because I cannot print half of the time due to the feeder either not feeding enough or just grinding into the different materials. Best regards

Hey there SandervG, thanks, I am glad you liked it sure, I had another user on here actually, but it seems like my old nickname was too long after you updated your website/community platform which in turn caused me not being able to log onto here anymore unfortunately. Thats why I created a new account. I also post my videos on reddit and 3dprintboard. No, those are no sunglasses, but rather thin plexiglass used for model airplanes. It can be heated up and formed over forms if needed. I also put some tinted car foil over the plexiglass. Of course, I am, it was a close call though

Dear fellow Star Wars Enthusiasts, I have recently printed and finished an amazing model of the Captain Phasma Helmet from Star Wars Ep. VII. You may watch the video about the printing and building process here: Model can be found here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1343844 Hope you enjoy watching Best regards

Thanks! Yes, I know. Unfortunately I had the ISO too high during the filming and did not want to darken it so much in post-production. I will probably do the Captain Phasma Helmet next and try to pay more attention during filming

Hey guys, I had to create another profile because my old profiles user name was supposedly too long now Anyway, I have just finished a new project on the Ultimaker 2. I have printed a great wearable model of the new "First Order" Stormtrooper helmet in various pieces. I then glued it together with some fast glue and also stitched the pieces together on the inside using a soldering iron. Some epoxy, automotive putty and sandpaper was used to smoothen everything. It was then colored with some primer, high gloss white and a high gloss transparent layer. The original model is by Geoff. Amazing work. You can find it here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1094858 Here is the link to the video: Best Regards, Alex