RoySalisbury

What are the chances that Ultimaker (or a 3rd party) will release an upgraded control board for the 2+ that hasWiFi/Ethernet and the same "Cura Connect" type firmware that the Ultimaker 3 has? I have both the 2+ and the 3, and like the ability to connect to the printer from a web browser to check on the prints.

I tried your suggestion of setting just the support roof to extruder 2. It did what it was supposed to do (sort of), But still did not give the nice clean separation between the filaments. I think because its still doing the zig-zag support for extruder 1, and that filament is still too close to the non-support material. So, I went back to my model and made some modifications so that I could print it upside down with only minimal PVA support where it was touching the bed. Basically that gave me what I needed. Sometimes you just have to flip things upside down.

I love when I print with PVA as a support material that I get nice smooth, flat surfaces where the support material is. However, when I print supports with the same material as the object, it prints so that there is only a slight bit of plastic touching the main object so it can break away easily. I understand the reasoning. However, it would be nice is perhaps the majority of the support structure that DID NOT touch the model could be printed using the the main filament (say PLA), any ONLY a small portion of the plastic that touches the model is printed in PVA. Then I could get the nice smooth/flat surfaces. Plus, I could print the majority of the supports in the less expensive PLA instead of the PVA. It would also drastically speed up the print process. This may already be possible and I just don't know how to do it. But having Cura just "do it for me" by checking a box would be great. Roy

Ok.. So a large bolt with course threads would be good at 0.4, but a small bolt with very fine threads it might be better with 0.25 .. even if the layers are .2mm .. I can see that. For now I don't really plan on trying to "push the limits" with speed, angles or overhangs. So even its its slow, I'm ok with that. I'd rather stick with the things that don't cause issues just so I can get the basics understood. Having said that, I'm sure I will try a print or 2 just to see what it can do and what settings have different effects. Roy

Check! I have these from my electronic work (I'm used to burning myself ever now and then with a soldering iron). That was one thing that I was going to have to figure out. I see the PLA does nto shrink as much as ABS, but there was still some. Good tip. I have seen the videos and software settings and was not sure if infill was better then a more solid shell. I guess there is a point when one is better then the other. What about the nozzle's that come with the UM2+ ? I know the 0.4 is installed by default. When is using one better then the other? Say, the 0.25 vs the 0.4. I know the tech specs talk about speed and layer size, but if I used a speed and layer size that was compatible with both, then what would work better? Or as with all things, it just depends on two many factors for a general answer? Roy

For now I will be using Cura (don't want to get to confused by all the options in S3D). But from what I can tell from the reviews and videos, it just has better control over the slicing and temperatures (per layer in some cases). But I will be starting with Cura.

OK.. I'll make sure I have that available. Good advice .. I like being prepared, but don't want to over do it (considering I don't even have the printer yet). Thanks!

I just purchased a new UM 2+ and it should be here Friday. I spent a good bit of time researching different 3D printers and this seemed the most recommended choice. This is my first one. I got it mainly for creating enclosures and parts for my electronics devices (Pi, Arduino, NetDuino, ect) I have read a lot on the different filament pro's/con's and will be sticking with the Ultimaker branded PLA for the short term until I get a handle on the printer. I believe a spool of silver PLA comes in the box, but I also ordered a spool of white and black. I have read that even different colors can require slightly different settings so that was my plan with 3 colors.. learn the differences. I looked around to see what others have created, and even watched a LOT of youtube videos. Some helpful, some not so much. The ones that were more helpful than not were on the slicing software. I know UM comes with Cura, and while I will probable use that when I first set it up and get it going, I'll probably switch to Simplify3D. I knows it cost $$, but from the videos and tutorials I have watched, it just seems like the best solution. One thing that I have not figured out yet is the "creation" of 3D models themselves. I know I will need to learn some type of CAD software. Since I get a lot of parts from McMaster-Carr I do know that there website provides a lot of the CAD drawings for parts. I have downloaded a few simple parts as a SolidWorks CAD file, and then imported them into the onshape.com CAD software (free version). Then I exported them to STL and loaded them into Cura. Wow! That's slick. So, my question is this... is there any other "tips" that I should know about (like the McMaster-Carr one), or guidelines that I should review? For example, perhaps there is a filament temperature guide (UM PLA White should be at 205c, but black should be at 210c) ... Or some videos that show what common issues look like (underextrusion or indication that the hot end is too cold, ect), and how to fix them? Thanks, and look forward to working with my UM 2+. Roy