Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

aelric23

Dormant
  • Content Count

    12
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

Personal Information

  • Country
    US
  1. Finally fixed it!! Working 100%. Replacing the T1 transistor wasn't too difficult, but I was able to do it in a short amount of time. Didn't need the Kapton tape, but I recommend to anyone trying it themselves, to heating up the bad T1 and pulling it right off the board. Also, lay down some flux as it helps make the soldered joints when you finish nice and clean.
  2. Yeah, kind of guessed T1 was dead after reading all of the voltages on both Transistors. I have pretty decent soldering skills, so I can probably replace the transistor myself. Might also use that kapton tape method you had going there neotko. Smart idea if you don't want to accidentally poke another component. I'll have to buy a finer soldering tip. and looking at other people's experiences, maybe order 10 or so of those transistors as backups. Thanks for the help everyone.
  3. Ok, results are as follows: Test 1: T1 = 1.980, T2 = 1.982 Test 2: T1 = 1.980, T2 = 1.553 Test 3: T1 = 0.002, T2 = 0.818 Thanks.
  4. Yes, I do. I was able to read the voltage off of the pin. Probably missed if the polarity was opposite or not.
  5. Hello. I have an Ultimaker Original Plus. A while back, my printer head fan was not functioning so I ordered two new replacements just in case. Plugged both in, and neither worked. Made sure to get the exact 24VDC replacements. The interesting thing about the fans is that they will run if you move the prop yourself, but it will not provide adequate cooling at the speed it maintains. It also will not initiate the fan to spin. I checked the connector on the board, and the output is correct when the printer is turned on (19.4V without the fan connected). I have been reading on the forums that it
  6. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-original-or-plus-feeder-damper Try this guys settings that he input for the material profile. I printed out the stl. he posted, with no mods to my UMO+. Flawless. It might be different depending on the print and overhangs. Note that I printed it in a brand new print head (replaced everything from the nozzle to the PEEK isolator because I tried printing in Nylon previously). The temperature seems a little high (try a lower temperature so the print cools faster but make the printing speed proportionally as slow), so if you're going for a model with ov
  7. Interesting idea. I think I just might make a mod for that so that the filament gets cleaned before it enters the bowden tube.
  8. Tried Taulamn Bridge last night on my UMO+ because I needed a nylon print for work. Completely nuked my printer head. The entire nozzle and aluminum heater block were oozing nylon everywhere. I tried adjusting the feed rate, that did close to nothing. I had it printing at 30 mm/s at 247C. Anyone know if it was those settings or just user error? Just ordered a ton of extra printer head parts and nozzles. I'm going to try printing in Ninjaflex when I get the thing working again. The print came out reasonably, but I have a suspicion that the filament had quite a lot of moisture in it due to the p
  9. Anyone found a mount that will support two E3D V6 hot ends?
  10. Hello. I have been looking at the forums and surprisingly have found little to nothing about more promising ways of dual extrusion like using the E3D Chimera hotend. So I want to know if there are any roadblocks or design limitations of the Ultimaker Original + for using the Chimera hotend on this printer. Any type of issue that the printer would present for this and how/if it can be fixed: - Software (Cura) - Marlin firmware - Printer head - Changing to 1.75mm filament (since Chimera only supports 1.75mm) - extruding issues - Voltage/ power constraints - leaking problems - Any other i
  11. Hi all. I'm also thinking about going to dual extruders on my UMO+ as well. If the problem is leaking at the nozzle, wouldn't it be simple to just hack the printer firmware to retract the filament out of the nozzle (feed rate to reverse) and wait until the filament is needed again? That is if the filament is leaking directly at the nozzle. If the leak is elsewhere, please say because for dual extruder printers, I have seen quite a bit of overlap between the two filaments (whether it be PLA and ABS and etc.). It's never perfect, but I would take a look at other 3D printers like the Taz 5 with t
  12. Just ordered an UMO+ myself. It'll probably be coming this week. I was also interested in a dual extrusion setup and can see that using the Ultimaker developed kit for the UMO is going to be a hassle. Therefore, I was wondering if anyone has tried any aftermarket solutions like the E3D v6 Chimera. I have seen this setup on the UM2, but wanted to know if anything would change for the UMO+. Thanks.
×
×
  • Create New...