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aelric23

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  1. Finally fixed it!! Working 100%. Replacing the T1 transistor wasn't too difficult, but I was able to do it in a short amount of time. Didn't need the Kapton tape, but I recommend to anyone trying it themselves, to heating up the bad T1 and pulling it right off the board. Also, lay down some flux as it helps make the soldered joints when you finish nice and clean.
  2. Yeah, kind of guessed T1 was dead after reading all of the voltages on both Transistors. I have pretty decent soldering skills, so I can probably replace the transistor myself. Might also use that kapton tape method you had going there neotko. Smart idea if you don't want to accidentally poke another component. I'll have to buy a finer soldering tip. and looking at other people's experiences, maybe order 10 or so of those transistors as backups. Thanks for the help everyone.
  3. Ok, results are as follows: Test 1: T1 = 1.980, T2 = 1.982 Test 2: T1 = 1.980, T2 = 1.553 Test 3: T1 = 0.002, T2 = 0.818 Thanks.
  4. Yes, I do. I was able to read the voltage off of the pin. Probably missed if the polarity was opposite or not.
  5. Hello. I have an Ultimaker Original Plus. A while back, my printer head fan was not functioning so I ordered two new replacements just in case. Plugged both in, and neither worked. Made sure to get the exact 24VDC replacements. The interesting thing about the fans is that they will run if you move the prop yourself, but it will not provide adequate cooling at the speed it maintains. It also will not initiate the fan to spin. I checked the connector on the board, and the output is correct when the printer is turned on (19.4V without the fan connected). I have been reading on the forums that it may be the Darlington Transistor which is burnt out, but I have no idea on how to check a transistor to see if it is functioning correctly (I'm an ME not an EE). Can anyone help?
  6. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-original-or-plus-feeder-damper Try this guys settings that he input for the material profile. I printed out the stl. he posted, with no mods to my UMO+. Flawless. It might be different depending on the print and overhangs. Note that I printed it in a brand new print head (replaced everything from the nozzle to the PEEK isolator because I tried printing in Nylon previously). The temperature seems a little high (try a lower temperature so the print cools faster but make the printing speed proportionally as slow), so if you're going for a model with overhangs, try adjusting the print speed and temperature values to get a material properties equation. What I mean by this is that for each material you use, you get a sample profile. You then interpolate the values of those two settings based on an equation. In short, you need to find the best speed/temperature value and fine tune your settings around each print based on experience. Just a thought .
  7. Interesting idea. I think I just might make a mod for that so that the filament gets cleaned before it enters the bowden tube.
  8. Tried Taulamn Bridge last night on my UMO+ because I needed a nylon print for work. Completely nuked my printer head. The entire nozzle and aluminum heater block were oozing nylon everywhere. I tried adjusting the feed rate, that did close to nothing. I had it printing at 30 mm/s at 247C. Anyone know if it was those settings or just user error? Just ordered a ton of extra printer head parts and nozzles. I'm going to try printing in Ninjaflex when I get the thing working again. The print came out reasonably, but I have a suspicion that the filament had quite a lot of moisture in it due to the popping sound I heard while heating the filament. If you're testing out new filament on your ultimaker, be sure to have spare printerhead parts on standby. OPC150 may have had better results and he is right about the infill, although I saw that anything less that 100% is going to give you something that is strong yet flexible. 100% infill is probably what you are looking for if you want mechanical parts.
  9. Hello. I have been looking at the forums and surprisingly have found little to nothing about more promising ways of dual extrusion like using the E3D Chimera hotend. So I want to know if there are any roadblocks or design limitations of the Ultimaker Original + for using the Chimera hotend on this printer. Any type of issue that the printer would present for this and how/if it can be fixed: - Software (Cura) - Marlin firmware - Printer head - Changing to 1.75mm filament (since Chimera only supports 1.75mm) - extruding issues - Voltage/ power constraints - leaking problems - Any other indirect modifications that help - etc. I could probably figure out if it's bust or not through trial, error, and research, I just want to save time better spent on improving my UMO+. Would I be better off just going for an E3D V6 single head? Any insight will be appreciated. Thanks. -- Andrew
  10. Hi all. I'm also thinking about going to dual extruders on my UMO+ as well. If the problem is leaking at the nozzle, wouldn't it be simple to just hack the printer firmware to retract the filament out of the nozzle (feed rate to reverse) and wait until the filament is needed again? That is if the filament is leaking directly at the nozzle. If the leak is elsewhere, please say because for dual extruder printers, I have seen quite a bit of overlap between the two filaments (whether it be PLA and ABS and etc.). It's never perfect, but I would take a look at other 3D printers like the Taz 5 with the dual extruder and see how their community is tackling this same problem or if they don't, see what the design entails to prevent this. Like neotko said, "you do not have to reinvent the wheel" unless all other options have been exhausted.
  11. Just ordered an UMO+ myself. It'll probably be coming this week. I was also interested in a dual extrusion setup and can see that using the Ultimaker developed kit for the UMO is going to be a hassle. Therefore, I was wondering if anyone has tried any aftermarket solutions like the E3D v6 Chimera. I have seen this setup on the UM2, but wanted to know if anything would change for the UMO+. Thanks.
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