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  1. Thank you very much for the response! I will definitely check Bridge out.
  2. This is my first time printing with Nylon. All my experience lies with PLA. As you can see below the print quality is horrific. You can also see a poor dye job on it as well. I will list the settings this printed on, as well as the previous attempts settings. I will state the issues that I am having and then list my questions at the end. After dying the nylon I baked it in the oven for ~8 hours, then I air sealed it. I have tried speeds ranging from 15mm/sec to 40mm/sec. For the slower speed I started off at 230 degrees moving up to 260 for the faster speeds. Initially, I had a really, really hard time with warping. I tried a heated bed (60-80 degrees) both with and without PVA. I tried a cold bed with blue tape (I always clean my tape with isopropyl). I also built a make shift housing unit for the UM2 as to prevent any un-wanted breezes; this didn't work either. I finally used a raft and brim for the best adhesion. I could see from the beginning that this would be a bad print, but I also wanted to see if I could get it to finish. I am at a loss as to what I am doing wrong. My goal is to print this gyroid really big and with thin walls. We have K-12 students come to our lab a lot and check out our research (math), and I feel it would be cool to have a math object they can stretch out, such as the pieces featured here.. So, here are my questions: 1.) Is the warping issues I'm having common? I have done a lot of research, and tried numerous ways, but a lot of the ways I have failed with seem to be successful for other people. 2.) How do I accomplish the super flexibility as seen in the blog post? 3.) What in the hell am I doing to make my print look so crappy? Here is my G-Code.
  3. So, you were right, shit was the filament. I was avoiding it being the reason for so long because I found, what seemed to be, a good filament company willing to do whole sale price for 10 or more spools. I ordered a spool of ColorFabb, replaced the entire hot end and wiring, and now it runs like no ones business, printing exactly how it should. What is frustrating is that I have got to get rid of all these spools. I honestly don't want them touching our machine again lol. The quality of the prints is making me want to shed a tear .
  4. Thank you very much for the response. There is really no set layer where they die off. Sometimes it will cut off at the beginning, other times it will cut off near the end, or middle. Sometimes the filament breaks, while other times it just stops from the nozzle clogging. I'm not 100% positive, but I think it has something to do with the motor itself. It really struggles to grip any filament I use (I have 10 separate spools), and constantly clicks. I'm just hoping that it isn't an actual hardware issue and it's something I am doing, because my error is much easier to fix lol. I do keep my filament stored in plastic bags in a paint container. I don't have it dehumidified, but they are all really new and our lab is pretty dry. Have you ever tried mineral oil on your filament? I was doing some reading last night before I went to bed and I read about someone doing it with PLA to help keep it from clogging in the extruder. I'm not sure how effective it actually is though.
  5. I am so fed up with this printer. Out of approximately 10 prints it might finish one. This is printer is not used at home, but in a lab, so I can't monitor it over night. 90% of the time the filament breaks (different kinds as well) because the motor skips. I have to slow the print wayyyyyyyy down, but even then it's hit or miss. Even basic objects, such as an octahedron, it fails on. Here is what I have done to for troubleshooting: - Ensured proper temperature to prevent heat creep (this includes retraction settings as well) - Ensured proper tension on the feeder - Cleaned the entire printer from top to bottom, this includes disassembling the feeder and extrusion unit - Checked the quality of the PLA (brittleness, etc.). We only use PLA in our lab. (PLA from Toner-Plastics.com) - Tried every different way to ensure adhesion. I find the best results is with no heat on the build plate, blue painters tape, and to clean the tape with rubbing alcohol. - I have completed about 2.3x10^{23552} atomic pulls - I have done numerous torture tests to ensure the proper temperature, etc.. I found the best results are 205-210c - I leveled my bed with numerous heights; .06, .07, .08, .09, .1, and .15mm. I found the best results are at .1mm. I have also done dynamic bed leveling as well. - For each print I always check the mesh quality in NetFab, I go through with a fine tooth comb on Simplify3D to make sure everything is good as well. I'm trying not to go Office Space on this printer, so any recommendations on what I am doing wrong would be much appreciated.
  6. Hey everyone, I was hired on as a lab supervisor for a math research group and no one has used a 3d printer before. I have been trying to learn as much as possible in a very short period of time before the lab is officially up and running next Monday. Right now I am only using the stock filament that was sent with the Ult 2 Extended, but I do have higher quality PLA being shipped to us as we speak. I am having a lot of trouble printing more complex objects, for example, attached are two photos of attempted builds, one of a Lorentz Attractor, and the other of Calabi-Yao Manifold. My settings for the Calabi-Yao Manifold was normal print. But, for the Lorentz attractor it was High Quality. I usually like to figure things out myself, but this is so much material to digest in a few days. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Lorentz Attractor attempt: Calabi-Yao Manifold attempt: Heres what they should actually look like Calabi-Yao Manifold: Lorentz Attractor:
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