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Undel's Achievements



  1. Thank you for the response. I've only been printing with PLA. (no wood or fancy textures or flex or anything). I did a check to see how many hours I've printed over the years and it looks like 3500. (lots of miniature terrain, slow prints, high resolution) Does that qualify as "only a few thousand" do you think, or do you think I should do the timing belts?
  2. Thought I'd follow up in case anyone else has this problem: Turns out there was a build plate heater wire that wasn't properly locked into the circuit board under the printer. Pressing it firmly into the slot resolved the issue.
  3. I would like to sell my Ultimaker 2+ in the future. (this is not a sales post. Please do not ask for the printer!) It runs great and I know how to operate it, but I would like to get it in tip-top shape for a new owner so that they don't have any problems. I'm taking off internal cases, cleaning, lubricating, and getting it spick and span and making sure belt tensions are good etc. There are some parts I'd like to be crispy fresh so that whoever buys it has as close to a "new" ultimaker experience as possible. I think it's likely that someone new to 3d printing would be attracted to an Ultimaker because of how reliable and "plug and play" they are. Here are the parts I'm going to make sure are new. If you have any suggestions for how to get this as ready-to-go as possible, I'm open to them! Fresh Nozzle Fresh Bowden Tube & Collets Fresh TFM Isolator Coupler Is there anything else that you think should be replaced for a printer that's been running for 2 years? Do the plastic parts of the feeder assembly need replacing?
  4. Hmmm, I started a print with the print bed heated to 65 degrees. A half hour in the temperature shows at 99 degrees and the print bed is ambient temperature again. I'm going to try doing a software update, which I have not done in several months. However I fear some hardware component is on the fritz. I've done fixes with the motors and the feeder and the print head and fans, but nothing where I had to touch an electrical connection. Hoping software fixes this. :-/
  5. I think this was actually a software error. I kept fiddling with the settings and gently wiggling the wires to no avail. Finally thought to turn the printer on and off again. Fixed. Embarrassing, but leaving the post up here in case this is helpful to anyone else who gets a temperature glitch.
  6. My build plate will no longer heat up because it is always reading at a temperature of 85-86 degrees. If I set the build plate temperature to heat up to 90, it'll start heating the build plate, but only bring it up 5 degrees above ambient temperature. I believe my build plate is still capable of heating, but that the temperature reader is broken. Does anyone know how to correct this?
  7. Update: It is fixed, and was having issues through human error. I kept thinking that it would make sense if this were an issue with the print bed because that's what it looked like. The first thing that I did was relevel it, but it didn't fix the problem. But it dawned on me this morning that I leveled the print bed using the closest spare "piece of paper", which was a thick photograph. Sure enough, after leveling the print bed with a sheet of printer paper, the first layer of my print is looking great! Moral of the story: Don't level your print bed using a photo as your piece of paper.
  8. Edit: it is fixed! History: Correcting leaning prints The ultimaker 2+ is my first 3d printer. A month ago the prints began to lean to the left as a print gained height. I corrected this issue using some helpful guides on the forums, as it turned out to b e an issue with the horizontal belt motor. It needed to be tightened, as there was a big gap in a part. I tightened it and reassembled everything. I successfully printed an ultimaker robot, and the print did not lean at all. Gaps In Prints Since the successful robot print after my leaning print correction, all of my prints have had gaps between the filament path, where it should be laying flush. This is printing with the same file, materials, and settings that I was having success with previously. Here is a video showing the issue. It's most visible at 0:46. Look at the brim in the center, running vertical, and the brim on the right side, running verticle. The filament has gaps between each pass. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qDN13XFh2SA I have tried: Aligning the Print Bed Removing the Material Watching the reinserted material extrude a nice thick line onto the build plate for 30 seconds. Increasing the print temperature on colorfab PLA from 210 to 215 C Performed the atomic method of unclogging the nozzle. I got a clean pull. Print still has gaps in layers. Is it possible that I have caused an issue by messing with the horizontal belt motor? Or is this a clogged nozzle? (it extruded a beautiful line of filament after the new material was inserted, so I'm not sure.) Any recommendations appreciated.
  9. Since I received my printer 3 days ago, I've been running it nearly non-stop. I was wondering if this is okay, or if its best to give the printer a break and not have print jobs going all the time. I want to prolong the life of the machine and its parts as long as possible. I'm printing PLA at 210 degrees with a 60 degree bed temp.
  10. Thank you, I will keep my build plate on then. (I didn't see the other topic when I posted, but thank you for the link to that too!)
  11. Hello everyone! I purchased an ultimaker 2 this week and have been having a blast printing up terrain and models for our Pathfinder games. I'm still learning the ins and outs of 3d printing. I had a question on the heated build plate. My PLA prints stick to the plate great if I use a brim and the heated bed. However, it seems like a waste of electricity to keep that bed heated for the duration of an 8 hour job. Is it probably okay to turn off the heated bed once the model is 8mm high? At that point, an edge peeling up seems unlikely. Is the movement of the print head on top enough to shift the model around if the build plate is no longer heated later on in the print?
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