tojiero

Thanks for the info. I've been reading around and printing small test blocks for the last couple of days. So many variables to frustrate ! I'm using Cura, and to be honest I find the interface and presentation of variables poorly defined and very clumsy indeed.

Does anybody have any tips on printing with Colorfabb NGEN Clear? I can not get it anywhere near transparent. My prints are always of a totally opaque frosted appearance.

For others - Ha ha This was a test piece. Whatever you do, do not make a saucepan handle out of PLA. It won't even last 5 mins. On the upside, it's easy to scrape off your cooker top when it solidifies again. 😂😂

Once the wires were swapped, it ran perfectly well. I printed a new handle for an old saucepan overnight without problem. Thanks everyone for their assistance. I'll check out the firmware update in the near future. I'm just happy to be up and running at the moment.

Since I swapped the wires as you suggested, it seems to be printing ok...... so far ha ha

Hooray !! Thanks for all your help...My printer seems to be up and running again. 😁 I'm still concerned that I don't understand the root cause of the failure. Are you suggesting that I should update the firmware? Is that easy to do?

Wires on a coil? Now I'm confused. I thought you said I need to swap 2 wires on the connector....but you can't say which 2 wires?

so which 2 wires do I swap?

This is the connector E1. The pins are not numbered. Which wires should I swap over?

That's right...both fans 'appear' open circuit. At least that means they are not shorted. I staged the powering up adding the bed heater then the nozzle heater and monitored the temperature of U6. All seemed well with no problems. I ran through the setting up routine until I discovered that the filament feed seems to be reversed! Instead of forwarding the material, it reverses it out of the feeder! How has that happened and how do I fix it?

Thank you, I have stripped everything and searched for indications. I have found no signs anywhere, but it occurred to me that there could have been some condensation at the time of failure. I have an IR thermometer. I will do a multi-staged power up. Wish me luck...😨

Would I be right in assuming that if the PSU was the root cause then there would be failure in the 24v components also? If the failure is limited to the 5Vdc then the root cause must have been in the Ultimaker machine? Playing Sherlock Holmes here, ha ha. I'm searching the machine for another root cause failure before I power anything up.

Thanks! Now I'm getting it. It seems I should spend time looking for an overload demand or short on the 5Vdc as a root cause.

Can you tell me what the failed component (burnt chip) is? Is it the 5Vdc supply?

Thanks! I have downloaded the manual now. I have installed the new PCB and double checked all connectors. I have studied the 'old failed' PCB and found the fault I believe: I live on a Greek island and getting hold of the replacement PCB has not been easy or cheap. I have not powered it up yet in case the 'root cause' still remains. I don't want to blow the new PCB. Can you give me some confidence?

I have installed a new replacement board (2.1.4.) I still have the old one (2.1.4).

I have confused you? please go to the top of this topic

Unfortunately, that link doesn't seem to work. I have only changed the board. The machine stopped mid-print. As far as I'm aware, all limit switches have shown no sign of malfunction or maladjustment.

I'm guessing this means moving the head manually to the park position and checking the all the switches are 'struck' before powering up??

I haven't succeeded in finding replacement components to attempt repairing the board yet. Lockdown issues mostly. I have however sourced a new replacement board complete. Two questions.... Are there any checks I can do before fitting the new board to reduce the risk of a 'root cause' elsewhere blowing the new board? Will I have to install firmware and how do I do that?

I've taken the cover off the underside to expose what I believe is the motherboard. I have found 24v dc coming it at the power connector. I have checked the power switch is also working and delivering. I have 24v dc at TP77 as the picture in 'bez's thread suggests. I haven't found any 5v as suggested but the thread is a bit vague as to where the 5v should be measured at or relative to. Most of the links seem to be dead ends. Also my board is labelled 'rev 2.1.4' not 'rev 2.1.1' , I don't know how much difference there is. There don't appear to be any indicator LEDs on the board at all for example.

My Ultimaker printer just stopped dead mid-print. All the lights are out. Power supply still plugged in. Blue indicator light on power supply still on. I switched the printer on & off several times....dead as a dodo. What do i do next?....Ideas? Can someone advise on how to check the power supply output properly for example?

I am relieved to see I am not the only one having problems. A simple Online Shop or a link to a local/regional franchise stockist would be very useful to everyone.

Why isn't there a simple link to an online shop for spare parts and other OEM bits & pieces? I'm having difficulty sourcing some replacement nozzles, that I'm confident will work with my machine (Ultimaker 2 plus).

Thanks for your help. Unfortunately because I'm trying to create functional prototypes, it is important to me that I use a CPE material. Colorfab NGEN was recommended to me by the Ultimaker vender and has a good reputation. Howeve, following what you have said I have installed a brand new reel. I have improved the fragility and wall finish by running a finer layer height. I cannot get a decent part from a 0.4 nozzle and 0.15 layer height. Printing is slow but at least I'm not getting horribly fibrous parts that fall apart. Surface finish on a 'supported' face is still very poor and has to be heavily sanded. Any clues on how to improve this would be gratefully received. Thanks