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RonanB

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Everything posted by RonanB

  1. Hi, I see that you don't have bottom layer too. If I'm not wrong you tryed to print the body of a robot, the left object reight ? I think you change the bottom layer thickness to 0. It might change the top one too. In cura 2.1 I can select it separetly. What version of cura are you using ?
  2. Hi ! I tryed this one too. I also tryed Layfomm and gellay. Those one were very soft but layer adhesion is not that good. In fact, there are flexible only when wet. There is some PVA and another plastic in those filament. When you print it, it is not soft at all. After that, you have to rinse it to remove the pva and it become soft. The layer adhesion is very week when it is wet and if you make a closed volume with infill, it is hard to remove the water inside. The pression can break the object while you deform it (if water inside) and if you tryed to extended on the z axe (because of layer). When it dry, it is no more soft and you have to put it in water again for hours (like a sponge). For my project, I really needed soft material (with a shore hardness near 00-25). I print molds in PLA or ABS and cast soft silicon in it. It works very well. I think it depends on what is your project. The water things is really hard to use in a project I think :/
  3. Hi, I think 30mm/sec travel speed is very slow (was it 300 mm/sec ?). You may try to increase it a lot. I almost print with 200 mm/sec travel speed, it reduce the print time a lot if the head have to travel a lot during the print and also I hear it helps with stringing. If the head move slowly, the material have more time to flow with the gravity, increasing stinging. You can do some stuff with retractation (i don't use it very often so i don't know what is optimal for it). I might be wrong, but you can give it a try on a smaller model. Good luck !
  4. You don't really need to be a software engineer to report a bug, just a user. It is true that cura 2.1 is much slower than previous version. I found that if i upload a model and i am in the slice view, it take a long time to slice. If I go to normal view and then go back to slice view while cura is slowly slicing the model, it become faster. I don't know if it a cura bug or if it's because of my computer, but i am just a user I don't think there is any configuration fix for your problem. You have to wait for optimisation and fix I guess. I don't find the 2.1 is that slow, ok i have to wait sometimes minutes for slicing, or i have to reboot it because it's stuck in "prepare slicing" but you can't realy expect it to slice model in second, plus i guess the algo is much more complicated for detecting special case. Anyway, i like the user interface which is better for me so i will continu use it.
  5. Ok ! merci beaucoup. Un problème que je risque de rencontrer c'est pour fixer la tige représentant la trajectoire. Si le projectile ne traverse pas l'objet, ça risque d'être compliqué de fixé une tige avec un seul shell (de 0.4 certainement) sans infill d'ou ma question sur l'infill. Comment se comporte ces matériaux avec quelque % d'infill ? Le but est de voir l'intérieure, par forcément à travers. Les objet seront des cranes, pas forcement un volumes fermé, je ne sais pas encore. Du coup je pense que le mod spiralize peut marcher. A cause de cette limite de 1 shell pour que ce soit vraiment transparent, je pensais faire un moule et coulé un matériau transparent dedans. Je prévois de fixer les tiges dans le moule avant moulage pour être sur de leur position. Il existe de la résine transparente mais je n'en ai jamais utilisé. Je peux aussi faire des contre-moules avec l'imprimante puis faire un moule en silicone/latex pour de la résine... Dommage qu'il n'existe pas un filament transparent à 100% infill Je vais regarder de ce pas ces fialements, j'ai encore pas mal de temps car on ne m'as pas encore fournis les données pour générer les modèles 3D. Que penses-tu de l'option du moule ? J'en ai réalisé quelques un et le résultat est vraiment pas mauvais avec du silicone. Avec de la résine je ne connais pas trop ce matériau mais il en existe du transparent comme le verre. Voici le rendu d'un moule en pla ultimaker rouge:
  6. Salut, Merci de ta réponse ! Pour donner plus de détail, le but n'est pas de fabriquer des objets et de tirer dessus (en plastique... meh), mais d'imprimer des modèles 3D d'objet endommager par une balle, avec la trajectoire et la position de la(es) balle(s) dans l'objet si elle sont restées. La question que je me pose c'est de savoir si par exemple les tiges représentant les trajectoires sont rouge et les balles vertes quelle serait le meilleur filament transparent pour voir ces objet coloré à l'intérieur "relativement clairement". J'ai du silicone translucide donc je pourrais faire un moule imprimé de l'objet et mettre les différents objet à l'intérieure mais le silicone devient très opaque (blanchâtre) quand il y a du volume donc bon .... Il faut pas que ce soit trop moue non plus donc du gel balistique c'est pas terrible (comme certain silicone) Je ne sais pas si je peux donner plus de détaille pour l'instant. J'aurai plus d'info demain
  7. Bonjour, Suite à un nouveau projet, j'ai besoin d'obtenir des pièces relativement volumineuses transparentes. Il faudrait que le matériau soit suffisamment transparent pour que l'on puisse voir d'autre pièce à l’intérieure. En gros j'ai besoin de voir des trajectoires (balistiques) à l'intérieure d'objets, vu de l'extérieure. Le volume fait environ la taille d'un crane. Je sais qu'il existe différents filaments transparents et j'ai vu que certain d'entre vous les ont essayé mais c'était il y a un certain temps. Quelle filament serait bien adapté pour ce genre d'application ? J'ai vu le test de chez makershop http://www.makershop.fr/blog/filaments-transparents-test-des-differents-produits/ et j'ai aussi vu les résultat de DidierKlein notamment. Quelle autre solutions sont envisageables si ce n'est pas réalisable avec l'impression directement? J'ai déjà imprimé des moules pour un autre projet en silicone et je pensais faire à peut près à faire la même chose mais le silicone est translucide et pas transparent. Des idées ? Si quelqu'un peut me dire comment se comportent les filaments transparents avec de l'infill ça serait vraiment simpa merci Edit: c'était une question mais j'ai missclick sur idea :(
  8. Hello ! I am only using cura since I start printing stuff and on all the different version I tried, Cura always start extruding filament before printing. I don't think this is actualy a bug. Normaly, it extrude on the front left corner of the printer and after few centimeters extruded, it start printing. If your nozzle is very clean, the filament extruded should go smoothly on the build plate and form a kind of small circle. If you start printing the object just after that (without skirt or brim) the filament can sometimes srcew a part of the first layer. It happens to me on very big first layer, it was almost as big as the buildplate of my um2 extended. Here 2 pictures about what i said : On those two pictures you can see the initial extrusion, which is normal and on the second, the begining of the first layer of ultimaker robot gcode (with a skirt). This is actually some red pla. What material are you using ? Normaly it is not a problem. If you talk about somethink different than that, you should check you gcode or show it to someone who understand it well. Good luck, hope it helps
  9. Hi, the red part on the X-ray view tell that you have an error on your 3D model. I am not an expert but i think it can happen because of holes in the mesh, wrong normal ect... You can check if your model is correct until someone with more experience come here. Can you show us a picture of the model if possible ? ps : you may have already solve your problem... haven't see the date -.-
  10. Hi guys! I have an issue with cura. It is maybe just a checkbox parameter somewhere but i can't find it... So, i'm trying to print some molds, but when cura slice it, the flat surface which is in contact with the other part of the mold is not a full layer (i get a half layer most of the time). There is a gap of 0.2 mm on a large part of the mold. The mold works but i really want to know why cura is doing that. Here some pictures : The object is touching the buildplate everywhere, so i don't think it is a problem of angle. Also with a 1° angle, i may not have those lines (in red on the second pictures) On the last pictures, this is the problem on a previus mold. Do you have some idea ?cura parameters, cura bug, or just a bad modelization ? thanks for reading ! Ronan
  11. hi ! I got the same result... with ABS ! It is weird that PLA warp that much. Do you use a heated bed ? You can use 60°C for buildplate and gluestick. It is far enought for regular PLA. Also What is your fan setting, nozzle temp, temperaure of the room... ? What is your printer ? On my UM2E, I can print PLA without gluestick and no heated bed. I would say it come from the material but you use different one... Warping maybe (I'm not an expert) come from the difference of temperature betwen your piece and the environment. Are you sure you are printing PLA ? I got white Ultimaker ABS and pieces look the same Can you try to increase the brim ? Good luck ! Also, it is good to print with almost the same speed everywhere (or close).
  12. I used a glue stick for bed adhesion. My print bed was, ofc, 100 °C. I forgot to mention it. ^^' Can you post some of your wire print if possible ? I would like to know if it's worst it to loose time trying printing it because it is not that important in my project. My goal is to print a liver with maybe a tumor inside. With wire printing, the surgeon will see where is the tumor but this is not the real purpose of the project, this is just a "plus". I'll buy some acetone tomorrow. Is that easier with PLA ? edit : the fan was off... It might affect a lot this kind of print
  13. Hello ! I tryed to print an object with wire printing enable in cura 2.1. I checked all the "layers" with http://chilipeppr.com/tinyg and it looks "OK". I have no idea what kind of setting choose for ultimaker white ABS.... I was pritting slowly (20mm/sec) at 255°C with a .4 mm nozzle. The bed adhesion was very low so I get nothing. Did one of you achieve to print an object with wire printing? please let me know
  14. C'est aussi ce que je fais d'habitude mais cette fois-ci, en démontant la buse j'ai vu un morceau d'abs coincé dedans. je n'ai pas pu nettoyer le nozzle parce que pas d'acétone... Quand j'utilisais la méthode atomic, le filament inséré ne fondait pas (j'ai essayé avec abs et pla aussi). Je pense que le bout d'abs dedans est cassé sur un bonne hauteur ce qui empêche la méthode atomic (si le filament fond pas, pas de remplissage de la buse :/) Quand j'essayer d'extruder a la main et via "move material" un petit peu de matériau sortait mais je devait appuyer vraiment fort et j'avait peur endommager les axes x/y. Pour le fil de cuivre, il faut le faire en douceur. J'ai chauffé à 260 (ABS) pour ramollir le bout coincé, j'insère doucement le fil de cuivre jusqu'à rencontrer le bout d'abs moue et j'enfonce le cuivre dedans. Pour le retirer, je descend vers 120 et quand je tire l'abs n'est pas totalement solidifié donc on en retire un peu, mais suffisamment pour pouvoir la nettoyer normalement après. Le but n'est pas de tout enlever en 1 coup mais d'en retirer suffisamment pour pouvoir faire le méthode atomic après. Est-tu sur qu'il a peu de risque d'insérer un fil de cuivre dans le nozzle? J'ai eu peur de défoncer l'intérieur avec ^^.
  15. Salut, j'ai eu le même type de problème la semaine dernière est j'ai mis 1 jours à le résoudre. Dans mon cas il semblait qu'un morceau d'abs était cassé dans la buse, trop haut pour que le filament insérer pour la méthode atomic fonde et pour q'une bonne extrusion du matériaux fonctionne. J'ai essayé de l'extruder avec "move material" : aucun resultat. J'ai essayé de l'extruder "à la main" : aucun résultat. Désespéré, j'ai essayé de faire une méthode atomic avec un fil de cuivre (dénudé entièrement au préalable). Bien sur il ne faut pas l'enfoncer jusqu'au bout et ça à marcher. J'ai monté la temp a 260°C, inséré le fil de cuivre jusqu'à ce que ça pénètre le bout de plastique moue bloqué, réduit la température à environ 110-120°C et tiré. Une grosse partie du plastique bloqué est sortie ce qui m'a permis de nettoyer le buse ensuite correctement. j'ai aussi imprimer une petite pièce de test et tout remarche normalement. ATTENTION ! Je ne pense pas qu'il soit conseiller d'utiliser cette méthode car cela peut endommager sérieusement le nozzle mais rien de sure. Si quelqu'un a une méthode plus safe je voudrai bien la connaitre aussi. Le bain d’acétone peut marcher, mais je n'en avait pas a ce moment et c'était urgent ! tu peux démonter ton nozzle et le faire tremper dans de l’acétone qui dissout l'ABS. Il y a des topics sur la méthode il me semble sur le forum et au pire sur le net Bon courage ! edit : Le fil de cuivre devient très chaud donc il faut en prendre un bien long et/ou ne pas le dénuder entièrement.
  16. hi everyone ! I post here some results i have printing a liver with lay-fomm 40. Here the link of the product http://www.formfutura.com/175mm-porolay-layfomm-40.html. I buy it from makershop (french retailer) and you may find it in your local retailer. Now what i did is printing a liver with this material and results are very interesting. My goal is to print liver with tumeur and I need something close to natural liver deformation. For people who doesn't know how it works, this material is composed with PVA (water "soluble") and microporous plastic. When you print it, it is like PVA i guess, not deformable (like PLA also). After printing, you put it in water and after a few time it become deformable. I put inside it a little part of ABS (by hand, no dual extrusion :/) for modeling a tumeur : after rinsed it i obtain that : At those moment, the liver was wet (it was in water few sec before i took those pictures). I will let another one dry this week end and I will how it become. This liver has 30% triangle infill (cura 2.1 <3), 0.8 shel thickness with a 0.4mm nozzle. The abs part were printed before it and inserted manualy during the print. As result, here a little video I made with it : (sound useless ) My liver is hightly deformable but it is weak (maybe because of the geometry) Please let me know if you are interrested in this material and for what you may use it !
  17. En plus, du fait de l'important nombre d'angles dans l'infill, cela cause des accélérations/décélérations qui peuvent altérer l'infill... Du coup le théorique infill économique et robuste se transforme en infill plus lent à imprimer et moins solide... La ou je trouve son utilité par contre c'est lors d'impression de matériaux déformable (je teste le gel-lay et lay-fomm40 en ce moment). Avec l'infill grid, les déformations dans l'axe de la grid sont moins importante qu'en diagonal... C'est un peu plus uniforme avec des hexa. L'infill triangle est tres similaire à l'hexa dans cura 2.1
  18. I may be wrong, but if I remember support overhang default setting in cura 15.04 is 60° (if you didn't change it). I try it in cura 2.1 and it seems to be 50° in this version. If you change this parameter in cura 2.1 to be the same as cura 15.04, you may have the same result. I test it now it looks like diffferent. Maybe a bug or another parameter to set right... (there are a lots of parameters in cura 2.1 for support, i hadn't test them all yet :/) I guess the slicing process is different in 15.04 and 2.1. Here some pictures of my test with cura 2.1 and 15.04.4 with the same stl file (same scale): Supports are only needed for overhang. With touching buildplate, cura put supports only between overhang and buildplate. If you change the orientation of the object the support should change. I don't really see what kind of object it is, it is a curve or somethink like that ? Also, should we open a thread for people who have problems with cura 2.1? I think this post is more "informativ" and I didn't saw a post that list all feedback (bug/problem/...) It might help dev to find new bugs (or not)...
  19. hi In plateform adhesion section, select skirt. Skirt means that the head print a line around the object you want to print. It does not affect plateform adhesion at all. It is like having no plateform adhesion.
  20. I agree, I don't think manual slicing solve it. It was only for sharing it with you Any tips to avoid it ? Yesterday it was stuck all day long, close and re-open cura didn't do anything. Today it is ok. I was maybe very unlucky yesterday :/
  21. Hi ! I post here because I had a problem and i want to share it with you. When i was changing the material on the um2 extended, the motor go crazy. when removing the material, the motor of the feeder remove the material but when the material was removed the motor didn't stop turning and it was turning irregularly (normal speed 2 sec, fast 1 sec , ...) I thought it was ok so i continue manipulation. During inserting the material, the motor of the feeder does the same in the other way. Also, normally the motor slow down when the filament get close with the nozzle but this time it didn't. So the printer was extruding the filament with the same pattern (normal speed 2 sec, fast 1 sec , ...) causing intense grinding. I shut down the printer, restaure factory settings and it solve it. Any idea why it happens ? I think it's because I used a very old cura (with hexa pattern) to generate Gcode for the last print and it make the printer crazy :(
  22. I think the problem doesn't come from battery/energy consumtion, it doesn't make sens. An option "hiden" in parameters for people who don't have a good computer could be a good way(maybe it didn't depend of the computer). Also yesterday I got a bug (maybe it's not), Cura was stuck in "preparing to slice..." after loading an object. The object had 250k poly but I don't think it cause the problem. Today it slices it in less than 5 sec. Sometimes it take few minutes, I might do somethink wrong :( I was writing something on slicing delay again, but just before posting, I test it and this delay was good today....
  23. About material use, I notice that Cura 2.1 doesn't display the weight of material use but only the lenght. Also I can't modify the diameter of the material (in the option it is in grey with some other parameters). is that normal ? I'm using a 3mm one and i guess it's 2.85 mm by default. 3mm for 2.85 isn't a big deal but I just notice that the parameter cant be modify.
  24. Hi ! Thank you for this version ! I was instaling an old version of cura because I needed hexa infill (grid infill is not really good for deformable material) and I saw all new patterns for infill in this version. Printing Two object with different parameters is a very good feature for testing things (and saving time). The major default for me is autoslicing. I got complex and hight poly models and i have two wait 20 sec after each parameter modification. If it can be manually trigger, I will forget to trigger it sometimes xD. A checkbox for disable it can be a good alternativ for people who doesn't like it (I'm patient so i don't need that). I had no problem with it, so far so good Good job.
  25. Now i have some pictures of the print. I print a liver (scale 0.4) and this is what I get after few hours of print : This is very rigid after printing. I put it in hot water before leaving work and after 15 hours, I get : When wet, this material is hightly deformable but breaks when you try to extend it. The print takes 2 hours with parameters of the previous post. During the print, I increased temp from 230 to 235°C after few layers because of under extrusion on the infill. It solved it but it is better to lower the speed. I am now printing cylinders with different infill % and 30mm/sec definitively fix infill under extrusion at 230°C. I also disabled the heated bed and i didn't put glue stick on the plate, adhesion is still very good (I broke the bottom of the liver when I tryed to remove it from the plate with heated bed + glue :/). After few tries even without heaten bed and glue stick this is really hard to remove from the buildplate. here a picture of the nozzle during the print. Before printing, it was a little dirty, I don't know what is happening. Do you have any ideas on how to clean it safely and why it happens?
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