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  1. Hi UlrichC-DE, thank you for the explanation and the example with the diy kits. I think I have to verify the solution with professional bearings with H7. Because the rod is a professional one. If that's the solution I'm fine. My goal is to build a good and not a cheap printer. I would only avoid buying expensive parts that aren't necessary. In that case (and in other topics I've read) I found out that it is essentially buying high quality bearings. Thanks a lot. Greetz 3D_Rockstar
  2. Haha, good example.. when you put a bratwurst (=rod) in the bun (open bearing) then it is a sliding fit. When you have to put everything in your mouth then it becomes a pressfit. Now I understand the difference 😉. But seriously... Now I have bought a professional rod h6 and it don't fits without tools in the bearings. In the assembly manual from UM2 it fits without bearings. The right constellation that I've read is H7 (for the bearings) and h6 for the rods. But the standard bearings aren't H7, because I have a h6 rod it I can't assemble it with the bearings. Maybe Ultima
  3. Hi Torgeir, thank you for the reply. If you go to the page of misumi, there you have to choose the tolerance (f8, g6, h5) too. Therefore I think it is necessary to know one of the tolerance (bearings or rods) to calculate the other. I think if I spend enough money, I could buy the right fitting with expensive rods and Bearings (the one with given tolerance for example SKF start with each 5€ and above). But I think that it should be possible to solve it with standard bearings too. But I don't find nothing on the internet about that?! And I didn't find other topics where someone would change t
  4. Hi Torgeir, do you know which tolerance the rods of the UM2 are? And do someone knows which tolerance normal bearings have? Greetz 3D_Rockstar
  5. Hey guys, I'm about to build a Ultimaker Clone with aluminum profiles. Everything works pretty good beside of the X- and Y-Axis. I've ordered "normal" 688-2RS flanged bearings and 8mm steel rods with the tolerance h6 from here: Link Know they fit to each other as press fit (don't know if this is the right translation for Presspassung). That means that I need tools like a hammer to fit the bearings with the rods. In the assembly manual from ultimaker 2 the bearings and rods fit as match fit (Spielpassung). So I don't need tools to put in the bearings into the rods. In the books
  6. Hello ultiarjan, I think I have to try it out. But do you know how this is solved on the UM2? Do they have special wires?
  7. Hello guys, I'm building the Ultimaker Aluminium Version and bought therefore a heated bed with PT100 soldered in. Now I want to connect the heated bed with the 3D Printer. I think the two thik wires for heating up the bed are normal wires. The question is, if I have to buy special wires for wireing the PT100 from the clamp of the bed to the mainboard. Normally PT100 Sensors have special wires, that are part of the resistance of the sensor. Can someone help my please? Thanx
  8. Hallo Zusammen, bei iGo 3D kostet das Board 350€. Hat jemand einen anderen Store schonmal ausprobiert und kann diesen empfehlen? Gibt ja schon für 105€ die UM2 Boards.
  9. Hello, I´am new to this community, and I startet with my UM2 1 year ago. I am a big fan of the UM and this community as well. There are so many creative ideas in this community.. It´s really cool!!! I want to make some experiments with the hotend and therefore I have to change often the nozzle. Because of this fact I have some questions: Is there already a project in this community that I didn´t find, that describe a modular (mechanical and electrical as wall) hotend so I can build this for my own? I thought about an electrical connector to plug off all the electrical stuff and an mecha
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