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Everything posted by StephanK

  1. StephanK

    Ultimaker 2 x y Switch broken Problem

    Zerspaner_Gerd hats oben schonmal vorgeschlagen, häng ihn mal per USB an den PC, Schieb den Kopf mal in die Mitte, und dann versuch mal, ob Du mit der Freeware Pronterface (pronterface.com) die Achsen steuern kannst. Ich bin gespannt auf X, ob die geht. Und wenn er dann schon mal da am USB hängt, guck mal ob er mit M119 den Status der EndStops anzeigt. Hab kein UM2, aber versuch wärs wert. Wenn ja, dann drückste und hälst den Endstop und machst nochmal M119.
  2. Also bei mir hatte ich das Display "Hüpfen" am UM2+ schon vor dem Wechsel auf Tinker. 100% sicher, weil ich noch gedacht habe, ob das mit Tinker eventuell besser wird 😉
  3. StephanK

    Simplify3D v4.1

    Hmm.. bugs have been fixed according to the changelog ( https://www.simplify3d.com/software/release-notes/ ), unfortunately not the ones I was having problems with. Since the change log only lists some of these bugfixes, who knows. Supposedly 100+ more fixes went in, which ones is anyone's guess. The 3-4 bugs / reproducible issues i've had are still in. The disappointment stems from the fact that the "main features" of this update, as announced here: https://www.simplify3d.com/software/release-notes/version-4-1-0/ are imho a bit of a let down. Support for 6 extruders, better rafts. Ok, but not sure if that's what the majority of the user base has been waiting for. More accurate print time estimates as the 2nd featured item? Besides the fact, that it'll still be off...I just can't get excited about. Problems: well, besides the new dynamic prime towers either not rendering properly or not working at all, and not having the first clue where to specify the dimensions of the extruder to actually use the new "collision detection in sequential printing" they added, no, no new problems so far. But then again, they didnt add much to begin with.. Who said 2 out of 3 aint bad? ? In short: too little too late. Looks to me they're unwilling or unable to maintain meaningful development. Cura and Slic3r already surpassed S3D in features, I am finding less and less reasons to tell my folks: it is still worth spending $150 on simplify3d. Heck, after using S3D exclusively since 2016, I am now catching myself using Cura 3.4.1 <g> more and more. Because, you know, it has some really useful features that S3D doesn't have and probably never will.
  4. StephanK

    Simplify3D v4.1

    I installed it.. And honestly, I shouldn't have bothered. What a disappointment.
  5. StephanK

    Cura 3.4.1 UM3 Dual Extrusion - No Prime Tower?

    Thanks.. I guess these are somewhat ( <g> ) valid reasons. I don't necessarily agree with the decision by the profile team, I would have wished for "print quality" over "print speed" or "less support questions" being the primary focus. (Sorry if this sounds harsh, its not meant as such) To me "Recommended" Settings means - or should mean imho - that I can tell an inexperienced employee to to just hit print in "Recommend" and end up with a decent print without having to go to Cura University first to learn what all of the 500+ settings in Custom mode mean.. Hence, if 2 materials are used, we get a prime tower that is thick enough to not break (as mine just did with my first CPE & Breakaway print - trial and error with any new material & machine, no biggie). My recommended settings would lean to overdo it to make triple sure the print works well - and sell more filament ? Cura is getting a nightmare to train folks in - or to support them if questions arise, so I hoped for Recommended to be the easy way out. NFC reads the tag and recommended switches to "guaranteed" (as much as possible) working settings for this combination. While the experienced folks use Custom and disable the prime tower if they think they can get away with it. I shall have to create a bunch my own profiles then. Dratts, but I think I'll manage ?
  6. Hi there, is there a reason why all the default profiles for the UM3 have the prime tower turned off? Looks like an oversight in the default template to me - or am I missing something? Basically renders Recommended Settings (I call it Easy Mode) useless for any Dual Extrusion attempts, be it DualColor or the usual PLA&PVA.. Kinda looks to me like "Recommended" is not useable for anything but Single Extrusion, ist that a fair verdict? Thanks, Stephan
  7. StephanK

    CPE / PETG terrible first layer & surface quality

    I just ran into the same thing, first print using CPE on my UM3 and my first layer looks the same. Two ways to go about this usually: a) increase the nozzle <> bed distance, but so far I haven't found a good way to do so on the UM3 with active levelling turned on. (ActiveLeveling is setting the nozzle too close consistently imo) b) reduce flow% - there's even a initial layer flow% now that should work well to fix this. (just about getting ready to try it here) Your blue tape is probably not helping here, either, as it further reduced the gap between the nozzle (or was it on there during Active leveling?). May I ask why the tape? Bit of gluestick or magigoo or printafix works really well for adhesion..
  8. StephanK

    Active Leveling Question

    Just for the records.. my brandnew UM3 is doing the same thing: after active leveling, the bed ist just ever so slightly too close. No biggie, but i found it worth noting. Ideally, i guess, a Z-offset setting in the printers menu would be nice..
  9. StephanK

    Polymaker Polybox?

    I use my Polybox for PVA and Nylon. It works as advertised. If it is worth the hefty pricetag when you can build your own with a plastic box from any household goods store at a fraction of the costs.. well.. I am lazy ;-)
  10. StephanK

    Tinker firmware - introduction

    Yeah, did factory resets a few time meanwhile. I'll turn geek mode off and see if it happens again.. But i gotta say, despite the glitch, i do not really want to miss Tinker anymore. I'll keep an eye out and will report back with any new findings. Oh, another tidbit: my leds are flickering noticeable while both heaters are heating. Power flucuations <> memory corruption, is there a possible connection there? One thing i did notice with the change filament feature is this: If you wait too long to confirm that the new filament is now properly coming out of the nozzle, it will eventually start the change filament procedure from step one, If you misclick now it'll happily try fast advancing the filament. Which at this point is already right there at the nozzle.. It's not pretty when that happens ;-)
  11. StephanK

    Tinker firmware - introduction

    @gr5 This is a long story. First of all. I am using an UltiMaker 2+, fitted with a Bontech DDG (the one that looks like the original UM2+ feeder just black). It is connected via USB to a RasPi3 running Repetier Server. I control all my prints that way. This setup has been working absolutely flawless for the ~2 years i had the UM2+ now. Not a single problem. The printer is running or on standby 24x7 x364. My troubles started after i flashed current tinker 17.10.01 in order to get the Bondtech working (changed E-Steps and motor direction). After that i noticed that occasionally after the end of successful a print, starting the next subsequent print, my printer would print in mid air. Looking at the Z position in the display, it seemed as if the printer thought total z axis had shrunk by said roughly 1cm (it varies a bit). So it somehow lost track of the Z-axis and came in about a cm sort. I tried in vain to get this bug to reproduce, for days, i was sitting there smartphone in hand recording the start of each trying to catch it on film, as the display shows it right then there if it is going to fail. I gave up after a few days, couple of days later is when it struck again :-) TinkerGnome had asked me (here - original post in German) to keep an eye on Z-offset via terminal, but never saw anything unusual and of course, the problem never happened while i monitored it. The reason why i mention all this is because i think they're ralated. In both cases it feels like the "printer" loses track of the proper position. I cannot for the life of me git it to repeat reliably. The z-axis problem happened 3-4 times within a couple of weeks, hasn't happened since. Instead, now i get this homing bug with the garbled position for Y started occuring. Again no clear pattern. It does not happen after a power on/power off cycle, it does happen occasionally after the end of a successful print Start Code: G28 ; home all axes G1 X5 Y10 F3000 ; bring extruder to front G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length G1 Z10 ; lower G1 E19 F200 ; purge nozzle quickly G1 E26 F60 ; purge nozzle slowly G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length again G1 E-5.5 F400 ; retract G1 X190 Z0 F9000 ; pull away filament G1 X210 F9000 ; wipe G1 Y20 F9000 ; wipe G1 E0 ; feed filament back End code: G28 X0 ; home the X-axis M104 S0 ; turn off heaters M140 S0 ; turn off bed M106 S0; turn off fan M84 ; disable motors No other scripts are active. Atm, the printer works fine. Version readout attached. I'd be most happy to run some tests if there's anything you can think of that might help :-)
  12. Ich weiss gar nicht, wo ich das eigentlich posten sollte, also versuch ichs mal hier und in Deutsch. Ich hab seit paar Wochen nun die aktuelle Tinkergnome Firmware auf meinem Ultimaker 2+. Im Großen und Ganzen funktioniert das sehr gut, aber anscheinend verliert er irgendwie die Z-Achsenpositionen. Ich level mein Bett, stell die Z-Achse ein, alles prima. Dann endet der Druck, er fährt das Bett nach unten, löst den Endstop aus und ist nun plötzlich der Meinung, er wäre bei Z=~200,, anstatt Z=212,25 (der korrekte Wert). Folglich startet der nächste Druck auch nen guten cm in der Luft. Woher kommt das und wie kann ich das beheben? Wäre für jeden Tipp dankbar.
  13. Ich hab 17.10.01 drauf. Mit der original UltiMaker Firmware nie ein Problem gehabt. Eventuell gehe ich doch nochmal zurück auf 16.03.
  14. StephanK

    Tinker firmware - introduction

    and exactly the same happened to me as well. (UM2+) Repeatedly, end stop works for everything else except change filament. I could alternate between home head and change filament, home works, change filament ignored the end stop (i hear it click). Power off/on fixed it. While the problem occured, i had a garbled Y position showing in Move Axis screen display
  15. Tja, da bin ich wieder.. jetzt ging es wochenlang problemlos, heut morgen wars dann wieder soweit. Wollte eigentlich mit Change Material das Filament wechseln, dabei wurde der Y-Endstop nicht erkannt (der beim normalen "Home Head" auch direkt anschliessend funktioniert hat) und unter großem Geratter hab ich dann mal schleunigst auf Cancel gedrückt. Interessant dabei ist vielleicht die Displayanzeige unter Move Axis: Pos. Y ist glaub klar so nicht gedacht, Pos Z ist wieder der etwa cm zuwenig. Home bringt keine Änderung. Nach ein & Ausschalten des Druckers passte es dann wieder alles und auch Change Filament funktionierte wieder normal.
  16. StephanK

    Pla flex in ultimaker 2

    I am printing PLAflex (by rigid.ink) with the help of Bondtechs new DDG just fine, even at "moderate" speeds. I just print a set of wheels for a 3DLabprint RC plane at 50mm/s. (Using an UM2+). Didn't get around to try some of the even softer materials yet, but so far this is a big improvement over the stock feeder. I am quite happy with these results.
  17. Ja, Serielle Konsole ist vorhanden. Ich werde das nun vor jedem Druck prüfen und berichten. Ich hab vorhin mal die Kamera mitlaufen lassen, weil man sehr schön im Display sehen kann, wenn es schief läuft - aber da ist das Problem natürlich nicht aufgetreten. Ich bleibe dran und melde mich, sobald ich neue Erkenntnisse habe. Vielen Dank auch Dir für die Hilfe (und die geniale Software natürlich sowieso)
  18. Nix wildes,. In Repetier-Server sind alle Script Fenster leer, der macht also nix. Aktiv ist eigentlich nur Standard S3D Profil: Start G28 ; home all axes G1 X5 Y10 F3000 ; bring extruder to front G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length G1 Z10 ; lower G1 E19 F200 ; purge nozzle quickly G1 E26 F60 ; purge nozzle slowly G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length again G1 E-5.5 F400 ; retract G1 X190 Z0 F9000 ; pull away filament G1 X210 F9000 ; wipe G1 Y20 F9000 ; wipe G1 E0 ; feed filament back Ende: G28 X0 ; home the X-axis M104 S0 ; turn off heaters M140 S0 ; turn off bed M106 S0; turn off fan M84 ; disable motors Das Druckende selber ist auch nicht das Problem, will sagen: da passiert nix unerwartetes. Der Start des Nächsten Drucks, da läuft es dann beim G28 schief, er homed, läuft in den Endstop und ist dann aber der Meinung, der Endstop wäre bei ca. 200mm erreicht und nicht bei 212mm. Soll ich mal ne Kamera davor stellen, hilft das? (Der Drucker ist übrigens der Meinung, z wären 230mm, ist das korrekt oder unwichtiger Nebenschauplatz?)
  19. Zu früh gefreut, Problem, ist wieder da. Wieder startete der nächste Druck nen guten cm über dem Druckbett. Drucker war nicht ausgeschalten, kein RasPi Reset dazwischen. Nächster Test: ich drucke von SD-Karte, mal schauen, was dann passiert.
  20. Moin Gerd, so, hab weiter experimentiert. Das Problem ist jetzt bei 3 Drucken in Folge nicht wieder aufgetreten. Ein-/Ausschalten kann ich ausschliessen, ich schalte den nie aus. Aber: der hängt an nem RasPi3 (Repetier-Server), und wenn der RasPi sich neu verbindet, resettet der UM2 ja immer. Da werde ich weiter ein Auge drauf halten. Und wenn ich eine Methode zum Reproduzieren finde, poste ich nochmal. Die TinkerGnome Firmware will ich auf jeden Fall nimmer missen, die hätte ich schon viel früher drauf packen sollen ;-) Danke Dir erst mal für Deine Hilfe
  21. Ja, der nächste Druck war gut, beim Ende des 2. Drucks wieder das selbe Problem: diesmal waren es dann 191mm. Ich verstehs nicht. Ich hab jetzt mal im Menü am Drucker den Z-Abstand neu eingestellt, in S3D den End-Script aufs Minimum reduziert und lass ihn jetzt mal nacheinander 2 Testtürme drucken. Mal schauen, was dabei rumkommt.
  22. StephanK

    Material haftet nicht auf Platte

    Moin Laura, Die Frage muss im Forenumbaustress verschütt gegangen sein, normalerweise bekommt man hier schnell Hilfe. Mit welchem Drucker druckst Du? Hier mal ein paar Standard Tipps bei Haftungsproblemen mit PLA Achte drauf, dass das Druckbett absolut sauber ist, gerade Fingerabdrücke kölnnen ein echtes Problem sein Wenns nicht gut haftet, kannst Du auch mal den Abstand Düse zu Bett etwas verringern (einfach an den Bett-Level Schrauben drehen, vieleicht mal nur ganz wenig. so 1/8 Umdrehung - oder den Offset ändern, wenn Du eine Automatik hast) Hast Du eventuell die Temperatur fürs Druckbett verstellt? Zu kalt ist meist nix, zu heiss aber auch nicht gut Achte darauf, dass der Bauteil-Lüfter für die erste Schicht aus ist Stelle doch auch mal ein Foto der Unterseite des mißglückten Dtrucks hier rein, an so nem Foto erkennt man oft, worans klemmt..
  23. I am by far no expert on this, so hopefully somebody more knowledgeable will chime in shortly, but meanwhile: Is it possible your steps/mm for the extruder are set too high? Kinda sounds like it. Maybe try a factory reset after flashing - oh, and what printer are you using?
  24. I just installed one of these new DDG for Ultimaker on my trusty old UM2+.. Install couldn't have been any easier, but I did run into a bit of a snafu at the end. Either I do not understand the Bondtech manual or Bondtech uploaded the wrong firmware. It says firmware for UM2+, but when I flash it my extruder axis is reversed, so I think this is actually a UM2 non plus version (I think they were "backwards). Next: none of recent cura version seem to be able to flash my UM2+, all attempts end with a com error sooner or later. Ancient old 15.xx did the trick in the end. Cura is making it really hard for me to like it ;-) I ended up grabbing a copy of the latest TinkerGnome, lacking proper fw on the Bondtech site. Seems to work well, too tired to do test prints, this took longer than expected. Will play with it tonite.
  25. Since this topic is alive again.. and we're almost 6 months later. I gave up on the Original Prusa MK2(S), it required fussing over it constantly. I gave it the nickname "my czech diva". So I tore it up, rebuilt its frame with 3030 aluminium profiles (google Haribo Mod if interested), swapped the crap bearings and rods, fully enclosed it in an acrylic box). This added another 500,- Euros to the total cost. And now we're starting to see something that i'd call reliable operation. Granted, it always produced great looking prints in the end, but at the same time there was always something that needed readjusting, tightening or redoing. My UM2+, however, still just prints. Even the Teflon coupler is still hanging in. I oiled the rods 2 months ago and collected some dead flies from the bottom. It started to look a bit odd. I do wonder why flies love to go in there to croak, but that's an entirely different topic

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