StephanK

You're not really giving much info to try and figure out what could have gone wrong. Perhaps you can describe your problem a bit more detailed? What filament are you using - PLA or ABS or something else? I assume its not brown filament, so next question should be: How high did you set the nozzle temperature? What did you / the print do before this happened, did you notice anything unusual? Is this a brand new printer or has it been printing for hundreds of hours already? A tiny bit of gooey brown residue stuff sticking to the side of the nozzle is no biggie. But if you got half a pound of brown gooey stuff there, chances are there's something wrong. Meanwhile: I guess it won't hurt to try and do an "atomic" to clean your nozzle.. Maybe that'll get you sorted already: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/19510-atomic-method

With PLA, I don't even bother with Painters Tape. Sticks just fine on the naked glass at 60°C. No glue, no brim, no hairspray, no nothing. That's why I love PLA ;-) (I do wipe the glass with a bit of isoprop alcohol on a paper towel before every other print, cause there's always fingerprints and lots of dust.)

Nach dem Umbau der Düse ist meist ein neues Nivellieren des Druckbetts erforderlich, weil sich dabei gerne mal der Abstand Düse zum Bett ändert. Ist das Innofill PLA oder ABS? Bei PLA sollte es reichen, das Glasbett des UM2 nochmal gut abzuwischen (wegen Fingerabdrücken etc, ich nehme da gerne Isopropyl Alkohol dazu), dann das Bett auf ca. 60°C aufheizen lassen. Bei schwierigen Objekten kann in der Slicer Software auch ein sog. Brim genutzt werden. Man kann auch einfach das Druckbett durch Drehen der 3 Schrauben etwas näher ran an die Düse bringen, reicht bei PLA meistens schon. Wenn das alles nix hilft dann der Griff zu "Haftverbesserer" wie UHU / Pritt oder sonstigen Klebestift, Salzwasser auf dem Druckbett verdunsten lassen soll für PLA auch prima gehen, ansonsten Haarspray oder Kaptonband oder Blauer Malerkrepp.. Bei ABS die Druckbettemperatur eher so um die 100°C wählen und dann besser gleich eines der Hilfsmittel zur Haftverbesserung noch mit dazu nehmen. Für ABS wird auch gerne ABS gelöst in Aceton aufs Druckbett aufgetragen. Hoffe, das hilft Dir etwas weiter..

Since you seem to be in Germany like I am: None if the total amount incl. shipping is below 22,00 Euros. Between 22,00 and 150,00 Euros you will be charged 19% tax above 150,00 Euros you will be charged 19% tax & customs duty on top. I got no clue how many % that might be for pulleys from China.

Hi there, I keep running into this problem with my favorite PLA (from a small austrian company called Extrudr) and it is a bit annoying: usually the last 10% of filament on a spool cannot be used anymore. It just snaps. Usually somewhere in the bowden tube, rarely already at the feeder and consequently kills my prints. I've tried "refeeding", hoping the newly fed material would push the broken pieces forward, but in the end, it just snaps again sooner rather than later. Yesterday it got completely stuck in the tube, the feeder was grinding it happily to bits and nothing moved. It required removing the bowden tube on both ends to push the fragments out I guess it has to do with the fact that it is bent way more than at the beginning of the spool, or maybe sitting outside for usually a week or two (that's how long it takes me to finish a 1.1 kg spool) has already made it more brittle? Now, 10% waste on a 35 Euro spool that starts out with 1.1 kg is not tragic, but i still hate throwing it away. Is there any way to salvage the rest? Is your PLA working better and if so, what brand are you using?

Getting a perfect top layer ist difficult. You usually end up with scratches and lines deposited during travel moves or both. Z-Hop and Retraction Settings, Extrusion rate, printing speed all needs to fit for it to work. To dial this in properly takes a while. Here's a start: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#scratches and heres some more: https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#scars-on-top-surface.. Hope this helps a bit. I do wonder, how does the bottom of your object look, would printing it upside down help? First layer on naked glass usually comes out looking great..

Printing with a raft will get you a different surface, yes. Different, but not necessarily "better", as it has its own issues with respect to surface quality. Another option is to stick some blue painters tape on your build plate, this too changes the surface.. Even glue stick will change how your bottom surface looks. Or a carbon plate, or Buildtak, or..

260°C is rather high for PLA, if this happen again, you might want to stay around 220°C ish. At 260 °C PLA might start to deteriorate and possibly make your clog even worse. Standard procedure for your average nozzle clog would be to do an "atomic", as described here: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/149-atomic-method. Might need a couple of repetitions to help with severe clogs. If this doesn't work, I've had good luck with heating up the nozzle and using something small enough to poke through the nozzle. Possible options: hypodermic needle (preferably a blunt one if you can get one), acupuncture needles, a micro drill bit or even the high E string of your trusted eGuitar. For a 0,4 mm nozzle, i'll usually go with a poking thing at around 0,3 - 0,35 mm in diameter If this fails as well, I guess you could try to remove the nozzle and see if you can clean it out once you got it removed or replace with a new nozzle. Instructions on how to remove the nozzle depend on your printer model.

I've seen it do that on my UM2+ as well..

Oh, glad you mentioned this, cause I've been wondering about this. The leveling aid I got with my UM2+ (that blue calibration card), is actually about 0,15mm thick. My paper (some generic 80g/m² office paper) cones in around 0,07mm. If the printer is expecting 0,10mm, both would be off. To add to the confusion further, fbric8 suggests here: https://fbrc8.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/205003654-Leveling-the-Bed-Alternate-Instructions- to have the nozzle actually touch the glass bed, i.e. 0,00mm Apparently it doesn't much matter in the end, as it is printing fine either way, but what is actually the correct or intended distance? 0,100 mm?

Had the same thing on my brand new UM2+ on my first print as well couple of weeks ago. Happened that one time and then never again since, scared the heck outta me though ;-) Btw. do keep in mind I am a newbie to the UM2+, but here's a few hints that might help until the more experienced folks arrive: First of all: here's a good trouble shooting guide for this problem and other UM issues one might encounter: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#grinding In addition to that, other causes for it not being able to push out the filament and start grinding or skipping could be related to your print settings. So if you maybe made changes to the print settings in Cura, go back and try a default one? In the past, I had lots of problems with blockages (on another printer) due to setting the distance between nozzle and print bed too close or the bed not being level in general. But I would think this would happen way earlier in the print and not 25 minutes in. Anyway, thought i'd mention it. Supposedly printing objects with excessive amount of retractions may lead to grinding as well, but I never ran into that one myself. Since yours is brand new, it might be also a case where something maybe went a bit wonky during shipping: In my case, I am rather certain what caused my failed first print was the fact that one of the rods had snapped out of the black sliding block om my UM2. The sliding block was also tilted towards the wall. Here's an animation how the sliding blocks snap in and out and how its supposed to look: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/19948-removing-the-print-head Also the set screws in my pulleys were lose and one rod was already protruding out of the side wall for a millimeter or two when it stopped printing. I am still puzzled how it managed to print at all. This is how it shouldn't look: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#protrudingaxes Hope this helps

Willy, weiss nicht ob du das schon gesehen hast, aber hier ist ne gute Anleitung wie man den Feeder auf und auch wieder zu bekommt: Für dem UM2 http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/39-feeder-disassembly Für den UM2+ http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/64-disassembly-of-the-ultimaker-2-plus-feeder

Moin, 1) Da oben im Menü Resources, mal die Anleitung zum Drucker und die Tipps anschauen, ich finde die Doku insgesamt recht ordentlich. Sehr lesenswert ist auch: http://support.3dverkstan.se/category/31-guides bzw. https://fbrc8.zendesk.com/hc/en-us 2) Schau mal hier: http://nicklievendag.com/filament-guide/ 3) Nix, der UM2(E)+ ist gut so wie er ist. Da ist erstmal nix was man modifizieren müsste. Nach dem Auspacken vielleicht gucken ob die Madenschrauben in den Pulleys angezogen sind meine waren alle locker. Dann erst mal mit dem normalen PLA (liegt ja ne Rolle bei) drucken und nicht gleich zu den Exoten gehen. Lieber erst mal mit dem unkomplizierten PLA ein Gefühl für die Sache bekommen. 4) Am meisten Übung braucht das korrekte Ausrichten/Nivellieren des Druckbetts und der Abstand von Düse zum Bett - siehe: https://ultimaker.com/de/resources/18769-calibration und damit einhergehend Probleme mit der Druckbetthaftung - siehe auch hier: https://ultimaker.com/de/resources/257-bed-adhesion Fand ich zumindest. In die gleiche Kerbe schlägt der Verzug ("Warping") der Materialen, wohl das größte Übel beim drucken, PLA ist da auch recht gutmütig. Typische Probleme bei Formen sind sonst Überhänge und dabei die Frage: wie rum leg ich das nun aufs Druckbett, muss ich das Objekt zerschneiden und in mehreren Teilen drucken oder kann ich Stützen setzen. Verschleiß sollte die nächsten paar hundert Druckstunden erst mal nix gross anfallen. Standard Aufgaben wie gelegentliches Düsen reinigen ( https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/149-atomic-method ) und das Druckbett sauber halten bzw. eventuelle genutzte Haftverbesserungen wie Klebestift, Haarspray halt entsprechend erneuern. Nach ein paar Wochen bissl Nähmaschinen-Öl für das Gestänge und etwas Fett (liegt bei) für die Z-Achse schadet gewiss auch ned. Steht aber auch alles hier: http://support.3dverkstan.se/category/9-maintenance

This actually explained it a lot better than your homepage. You might want to add it there as well. I assume I cannot send my own STL files through your service, you provide a selection of items that are guaranteed to print well. Therefore the selection will be (at least initially) limited. "A fine collection of exquisitely crafted items".. I further assume I don't have to slice the item myself, Poly, if i understood correctly, is going to pick proper settings you tested beforehand specifically for my printer and type of filament, therefore eliminating any possible mistakes I could make in this step of the process. But in order for this to work you would need to test and optimize each item for each and every printer and material individually. This is where i have serious doubts.. This directly leads to the next crucial question what printers do you actually support? I'd wager a bet Ultimakers will be fine, not sure where I got that idea since its not stated anywhere - but what about all the other printers out there, as insignificant these might or might not be?

Hi b_burrough Could you explain a bit what Poly and or Blitit is actually doing? I looked at your homepage and it didn't tell me anything. It is rather vague. Actually, if you subtract the BuzzWord Bingo fillers from that page, there's not much left. This is not terribly convincing. I started downloading the .exe but decided I don't want to risk running an unknown piece of software I know absolutely nothing about and apparently raises a security warning in Windows? Quote from your website: I've worked many years in IT support and besides "Did you turn it off and on again", my #2 most frequently used phrase was: "Don't run anything you know nothing about". What are system requirements? What is it actually doing? Please don't say it will give me one-click 3D printing. Or if you do, please do explain how it is going to achieve that? Oh, and how does this tie into this rather interesting Gcode Analyzer? That one really had me interested.

Hier ist vielleicht was... MatterHackers MatterControl Touch Interface verschickt anscheinend regelmäßig Status eMails inkl. Foto:

@GolaxR6 Danke!

Yes, i *think* so. But i have no way of knowing for sure. I do not own a M200 and was never able to print something with one. I am not sure if Simplify3D makes better prints per se. Not out of the box at least. But I started using it with my first printer and i've grown very fond of it and the way it does things. I was lucky because it turned out the default profile for that printer in S3D was excellent. But there was one more thing that got me hooked on S3D: being able to place manual supports allowed me to print things that kept failing before. For the UM2+, straight out of the box, Cura actually gave me better results. S3Ds default Ultimaker2 profile isn't that great IMHO, it requires a fair amount of tweaking - and the sheer amount of setttings in S3D can be overwhelming. I've never even considered using HIPS for anything but support material in a dual extruder setup. Shows you what I know about advanced filaments.. :-) Check out Colorfabbs NGEN, I think that would fit your requirements nicely, is tougher than PLA, prints well & doesn't smell. Better yet: find a vendor that sells small amounts of various filaments as samples. That's what I did, lots of samples and print loads of test cubes & "benchies" ( = little boats that are used as a benchmark test). It's fun. Kinda. I think I have a whole armada of benchies now. Yup, that was driving me crazy as well. We're talking a good amount of cash here and its really hard to form an opinion without actually being able to see yourself how each of them performs. Sounds like you're doing what I did: I looked at all the videos I was able to find on Youtube, multiple times, and tried to form an opinion. But: I do not trust online reviews & Youtube videos..

From all I know, the E3D V6 nozzles are fully compatible with an UM2+ or the OlssonBlock. Maybe somebody more experienced could confirm? -- Having been through this rather painful decision making process myself, I personally decided against the Zortrax M200 for these reasons: 1) I didn't like the idea of the perforated bed that seems to be continually degrading and will need replacing every now and then at 40€ a piece. If the thought of having to swap a 15€ nozzle is making you hesitate, how do you feel about a 40€ bed in addition to the occasional nozzle swap? Might be out of pure ignorance, but to me that perforated bed was a major downer. I print PLA on whats basically a naked plate of window glass heated to 60°C on my UM2+. I use ordinary glue stick if needed for better adhesion. Normal wear and tear on a glas bed is taken care of with a bit of soap & water, these don't cost 40 bucks. 2) I didn't want to be locked into Zortrax filaments which is on the pricey side and last time I checked my local sources is also limited in variety (no PLA, no Flex filaments, no woodfill / copperfill / carbonfill / LayBrick and whatnot) and even colors as well. On the UM2 you can choose whatever filament you like best from any number of manufacturers lots of varieties in buttloads of colors.. If you end up liking HIPS best, there's plenty of HIPS available to be used with your UM2+, HIPS prints at around 230°C, so no problems there. 3) I am very picky when it comes to what slicer I want, for example I don't like Cura either. I did for sure not want to be tied to the Zortrax Z-Suite which may or may not do what i want (manual placement of supports, printing without rafts is not great on a perforated plate, overall way less control: no temperature changes, no flow rate changes, etc.). I have yet to find a slicer that won't work with an Ultimaker, i did end up buying Simplify3D. I really like the remote control I get with free OctoPrint or Repetier Server, AFAIK these will not work with Zortrax proprietary protocols. 4) I am already whining about the limited build volume on my UM2+, the M200 has even less.. Well, that was my reasoning why I bought the UM2+ instead of the Zortrax, perhaps out of ignorance, I don't know. From all I am seeing the M200 is a great printer, in a rather "closed" proprietary ecosystem, which seems to impose IMO artificial limitations. Where on the other hand Ultimaker is as open as it gets and happily works with whatever you throw at it. I do not think the M200 could give me anything i can't get from my UM2+ I am very curious about the BCN3D Sigma however, maybe i do need a 3rd printer in my tiny office as well. The BCN3D does promise some features that I can't get with an Ultimaker, while having the UM2+ right there to cover my back if the BCN3D turns out to be another problem child ;-) Dang, I need to stop writing books.. sorry for the wall of text.

I stumbled over this very interesting blog entry from E3D about the whole Carbon vs. Nozzle thing you might want to check out: http://e3d-online.com/is-carbon-killing-your-nozzle In there E3D claims that after 2.5kg of XT-CF20 printed

GolaxR6, könntest du mal deine Settings posten, so als Inspirationsquelle? Die sind in der Tat sehr gut geworden :-)

Repetier Server (eine Closed Source Alternative zu OctoPrint) kann Push Nachrichten an ein iOS Gerät senden, aber da ich nicht weiß über welche Ports das läuft, wird das wohl auch wieder an der Firewall scheitern. Zugriff auf das komplette Webinterface über Port 80 ist konfigurierbar, aber das war am Ende dann etwas Bastelei. Wenn du den Raspi eh schon fertig hast und noch ne SD Karte rumliegen wäre ein Versuch ja auch nicht allzu zeitaufwändig.

Hab mal schnell nen Test bei mir gemacht und siehe da, auch bei mir ist da doch noch Luft nach oben. Ist mir bislang gar nicht aufgefallen, da werde ich mal übers WE weiter dran drehen.. Hier mal mein Ergebnis: Meine Settings: Extruder PLA hellgrau 0,2mm Schichten 210°C / 60°C - 0,4mm Düse, manuell 0,4mm Extration width, 1,00 Extrusionsrate - 4mm Retraction Distance bei 35mm/s, Coasting 0,5mm, der Rest ist auf 0 bzw. aus - 4 top shells, "optimize start points" - 45mm/s default speed, 80% outline, x/y 180mm/s, Z 20mm/s - Only retract when crossing open spaces (den werd ich gleich mal testen), Minimum Travel 0,02 mm aber mit Gerd und Neotko bist Du in besten Händen, die kriegen dich bestimmt aussortiert :-)

Pack doch mal spasseshalber die STL irgendwo online, würde mich mal interessieren, was meine Settings im direkten Vergleich ergeben.

Ich hab bei mir auch noch den Standard 0mm drin und bisher auch noch nicht geändert. Auch noch nie benutzt. Irgendwie war der Leidensdruck nie groß genug, da rumzuprobieren. Ich hab eigentlich nur Coasting auf 0,5mm und der Rest müsste noch Standard S3D sein (ich nutze PLA von Extrudr)