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StephanK

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Everything posted by StephanK

  1. 1) It is alot of money. Yes. About a month ago I bought a 1.700 Euro printer and hated its' guts. I was trying to be frugal and went with a cheaper brand to save money. It cost me big time in the end. Wasted hours and hundreds of Euros in replacement parts i ended up paying myself trying to get the bleepin thing to print. No support from the manufacturer, no community to help, no nothing. Today, I will gladly pay a a fair bit more for an Ultimaker knowing I will get decent support and there's this great community to help me if I get stuck. I think the looks are deceiving with respect to construction. The UM2+ might look a bit flimsy and plastic-y, but it turned out to be rock solid. My 1.700 Euro printer was built like a friggin tank, sheet metal frame, metal everything everywhere, weighed more than twice as much as the UM2+, with thicker rods, fat rails for the Z-Axis the whole deal. But the print bed was vibrating violently during prints even at slow speeds, z-axis wobbled, bearings started to make grinding noises after 2 weeks and its bed went out of level basically just by looking at it. So it's massive build didn't do jack. Well, ok, my back still hurts from lugging it back to the store it came from. 2) I am not convinced that the bowden is actually a benefit. And I am not crazy about 2.85mm / 3mm filament. But after about a week or so of getting to know my new printer and the new filament I am now getting consistently excellent results from my UM2+ and there's plenty 2.85mm filament out there, so i guess it can't be bad either. 3) Can't help you with the temps. I print mostly PLA, if i need something a bit stronger or more heat resistant, I switch to to Extrudr Green-TEC which works fine below 240°C and I've heard good things about Biofila PLATec but never tried it. Nozzle wear with carbon filled filaments can be reduced if not completely avoided with steel or plated nozzles which are available for some 15,00 or so Euros from 3dsolex, E3D or AVN MicroSwiss. Since you're thinking about getting the + model it's no big deal to swap the nozzle. So, no need to worry about that one imho. Cons, lemme see.. - I think the build volume of the UM2+ ist a bit on the smallish side (and the UM2E+ wont help as I need width not height). - None of my Wifi-SD cards work in my Ultimaker. - I keep hearing that flexible filaments can be a pain with the bowden setup That's about it. Can't think of anything else. To me, the money was well spent. I should've bought an UM2+ from the start, instead of an buying an "entry level printer" first, then that printer from hell before finally forking over the cash for the UM2+.
  2. IMHO the spoolholder on the UM2+ is rather poor. Even some of the 1kg spools don't fit properly, the darn thing was squeaking and the filament ended up rubbing either against the spool or the feeder intake or both. With one type of spools (esun i think it was) the filament would get dragged off the spool and fall in the void between spool and the back wall. I was not happy about all this. Now, the big 2kg holder in frederiekpascals post was a bit overkill for me, but I ended up buying something similar to IRobertI's spool holder (Youmagine) ) at 3dprinterstore24.de and am very happy with it. Bought it instead of printing IRobertIs mostly because I only have PLA and no bearings, rods, nuts or anything and the price seemed fair and I needed to order the UltiTop hood from them as well.
  3. With a first layer height around 0.1 mm I get the same "blank spots with no coverage or just a very thin film" effect as well, If I increase the distance from nozzle to glass bed and up the first layer height to 0,2mm it is gone. I assume with 0.2 mm there is enough plastic to even it out. I got myself a cheap dial gauge and some crude holder for it and while this ain't all that precise, I think the measurements indicate that my glass plate by itself simply isn't flat. Now, I don't know if modern industrial glass plates are supposed to be perfectly flat or not.
  4. Autodesk Fusion 360 (which is free for private use) will setup PrintStudio when you hit the "print" button. If you want it separately, these 2 links are given on the Dremel Homepage (my old printer is a Dremel): http://www.spark.autodesk.com/print-studio/download/windows http://www.spark.autodesk.com/print-studio/download/mac_os
  5. I had an idea: I hooked up my notebook and started testing it in Simplify3D using their jog controls. At 227 mm on the x-axis, the metal fan chassis touches the wall of the printer. I guess 223 is good and safe. .. and the default of 230 mm was 4 mm too much.
  6. Ok, yeah 223 * 223 sounds reasonable indeed. I don't have the first clue what caused it to slam into the right wall. The object was "scaled to max" in S3D. All i did see is that it was trying to print the first line of the brim when it did hit the wall, there was nothing unusual there i think. One thing i did notice that could be behind all this maybe? When Cura sliced objects start to print, the head moves straight forward towards me and it starts priming / depositing this small spiral of filament pretty much right next to the left next to where the front glass clip is located. If i print a S3D sliced object, the head moves slightly diagonal and deposits this a good 1 cm further to the right pretty much on top of the clip. Offsets maybe? I wish i had more of a clue ;-) Hmmm.. i guess that would indicate something with the Start code perhaps? But I didn't modify that (except for taking out the first line where it increases the stepper current, i was told that's not good for the UM2+..)
  7. Printer profile for UM2+ oddity (or end user confusion) I reset cura as per the instructions found here: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/20499-reset-cura-2-1, i re-added my UM2+ and heres whats confusing to me: A number of settings show a warning: "This setting is normally calculated but it currently has an absolute value set. Click here to reset it". For example: Line width under Quality settings comes preset as 0,35 mm for the selected 0,40 mm nozzle (which strikes me as odd, but that's a different question for another time) and it does show this warning: So i click here and i happily changes the setting to 0,4 mm (kinda what I had expected to see in the first place) but now it shows the following warning: "This setting has a value that is different from the profile. Click here to restore the value of the profile." Ok, I can do that, i am pretty good at clicking things, but if 'I do, it gets set 0,35 mm and shows the first warning again. To me, this sounds like the profile is not correct.
  8. Is there a bug-tracker wehere we could read up on already known issues or are we just supposed to post suspected bugs here as we find it? Or do we? Anway, theres something strange going on with the Scale feature after an object got rotated. Here's what I did, i loaded an stl file 220 * 60 * 20 mm: i then decided to rotate it by 90° and went to scale it: HInt: look at the % values.. Now, i simply entered 218 in the box for the X axis and once i hit enter, this happened: I think it got a bit confused.
  9. I know similar questions have been asked before and i read a bunch of them already, but I am still not quite sure and i'd rather be safe here. I just found out the hard way that Simplify3Ds Ultimaker2 Profile isn't quite correct for the Ultimaker2+, as with its default bed settings of 230 x 225 my print head crashed straight into the right wall or the rails or something, I was not best pleased about this. At least I was right next to it and cut the power rather quickly, just to screw up a 2nd time by homing the head without lowering the bed first, so it hit the glass clip on the way home.. Not my day today it seems. 2 Questions if I may: 1) Anybody know of some safe settings for Simplify3D so this wont happen again? 2) Is there some sort of test or things i should check to make sure i didn't damage the printer? To me, it looks ok, the next print was fine, but I am not quite sure what i need to look for.. Thanks for you input
  10. I am cleaning my glass plate with Isopropyl alcohol 70%. I print PLA straight to the glass at 60°C bed temperature. Before each print I'll wipe the plate with a paper towel and a small amount of Isopropyl, plus a more thorough cleaning whenever i feel like it - which ends up being not terribly often. Don't know if Isopropyl actually is any better than Ethanol however, never used Ethanol and according to Wikipedia both can be used as window cleaner. PS: Why 70% and not 99%? Well, I've been using Buildtak on my other printer and Buildtaks manufacturer said don't use concentrations higher than 70% for Buildtak, otherwise i'd use 99%.
  11. I ditto that, i run Cura on an ancient Netbook and would like to see a button instead of auto-slicing..
  12. I am kinda irritated as well. I would like to purchase some Ultimaker PLA and a spare glass plate, but my designated German reseller has none of it listed. I can fully understand how this change in distribution might become beneficial in the long run, but it only works if the supplier I am being referred to actually keeps all or most parts in stock. At the moment, this is not the case for Germany. Listing 6 nozzles and a (sold out) Upgrade Kit is hardly making up for the former Ultimaker shop. I guess now i need to check Austria, UK or Switzerland or don't know where else i might be able to order. I do dread the time when i actually need to order a spare part. I feel a bit let down to be honest.
  13. Interesting thread. Anyway, I managed to decrease the size of the blemish by increasing temperatures to 220 and disabling Coasting. Not sure why this helped, but I am content for now. Also, printing in Colorfabb NGen, the problem ist pretty much gone - however: NGen and I are not quite seeing eye to eye yet, it gets extremely brittle. But that's a different thread. .. and i seem to lack picture taking skills as well ;-) Thanks again for your help!
  14. Hi DidierKlein, Curling,.. hmm.. I think I prefer bowling ;-) Ok, i'll play around with different layer heights, maybe a 0.150 next. I wonder if different temperature / cooling options might influence this as well. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction!
  15. Hi All, maybe one of you could give me some advise on how to fix this problem on my print? Here's a picture: Its the standard Benchy, sliced at 0.1 Layer height, this particular one in Simplify3d, using default setttings provided with Simplify3d for the UM2. Filament used is the Silver PLA that came with the printer (tried it with a roll of Innofill, the problem stays the same, its just less visible as it is not as shiney). It is absolutely consistent on subsequent prints. I tried slicing with Cura, again with the standard settings at 0.1 and the "spot" started at lower layers and was shaped a bit different, but was still there as well. I tried with 0.2 layers and the problem is gone. I have no clue what to do. Any help highly appreciated, Thank you
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