622548
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Posts posted by 622548
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Honestly the idea of a non-FDM printer from ultimaker would be very cool. I can bet a few people in the community would buy an SLA printer from ultimaker since they have such a high reputation of being extremely reliable and having well built machines.
Carbon 3d printers are about I think $30000 PER YEAR, and the form printers (pretty much all SLAs) are limiting like SandervG pointed out. But people who look for a high resolution resin printer don't really mind that it's not very accessible because they usually trust the machine they're working with. If Ultimaker built one people wouldn't mind this at all I feel, simply because ultimaker has a high reputation of making reliable printers. Who knows though, maybe they'll release a resin printer in the near future.
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how can I change my username?
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Ultimaker should consider making an SLA printer to add to their family of Ultimakers. I can imagine since the print quality of their Ultimakers are so good in FDM, what the prints would be like in an even higher quality.
Possible features:
-15 micron layer height
-Different material support
-A power loss recovery
-An extended version
Anyone have any thoughts on this? Do you think they're going to make one in the near future?
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So wait hold on, you measured the filament diameter and it was 2.9 or did it have inconsistent diameter in some areas?
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Where'd you get the stl
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If someone could take a huge block of foam or something else and carve it on a CNC machine in the shape of a um2 maybe it would work?
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Just wondering if anybody has tried making a carrying case similar to the one that comes with the um2 go? Or if someone has a way of getting a um2 around with some sort of case.
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Dang, after consideration, I really think having extra build space is a good thing to have. But like you said, um2+ is more reliable but I'm not sure I need swappable nozzles. I could install the the Olsson block on my own if I were sticking with the non plus extended version...
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I think I might get the um2+ non extended because my projects shouldn't be that big anyway.
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The shift is probably because of a loose pulley:
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#shifted
The bad looking underside is due to the pretty massive overhang. The plastic is almost printing into thin air at that point with nothing to support it from underneath, this causes the bad quality. Improved cooling can help here.
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#overhangs
Here you can also see how sometimes using thicker layers can help:
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/30-getting-better-prints#layer-thickness
The overhang closest to the bottom is a problem but i dont think the top section that is a little droopy should be a problem. Arent ultimakers capable of printing slight overhangs without problem
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I'm not sure if this is normal because I don't really understand what the issue is. You say the glass bed is moving? Maybe that's normal? Maybe I don't understand? I'd still like to see a video of this movement/vibration. What you say is "excessive" might be normal. A video would really help.
I agree, a video would help us a lot
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I am ordering from the US and possibly getting a refurbished unit to save money. But what I want to know is if you can actually notice print quality changes with the extended plus. I am a student and don't really see the point in having 0.25 nozzles that help with more detailed prints... Any thoughts?
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I am in the market for buying an ultimaker extended or extended plus and was wondering if paying some more money actually makes a difference?
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At this point, definitely contact ultimaker support for help because it is most likely a hardware problem.
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@paul9 what kind of printer do you have and is the problem only on the first layer? Maybe a 5 second video would help.
I have Ultimaker 2 .
This happens not on the first layers but at a medium to medium-high and even height.
It could be a z axis leadscrew problem. you should check the leadscrew or maybe even oil it, see if that helps...
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Has anyone had experiences with Robotdigg um2 parts?
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I'm just wondering if the board would work without the jumpers because my friend is building a um 2 and it occurred to me that he doesn't have the jumpers?
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Yes I have the black jumpers
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So 00D00B, do I open Cura once I get the right Com port and install the marlin from there instead of using git hub files?
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I have no idea what you mean but I bought this one. http://m.ebay.ca/itm/Ultimaker-2-Kit-Ultimaker-V2-1-1-Controller-Board-OLED-Display-Adapter-/262125201657?nav=SEARCH
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Sorry for the late reply, I have a UM2 board with the oled display and display controller board. I am trying to use the files from youmagine that are inked to github and there is firmware there. However, this is where my problem starts. I am just not sure which file to use and even if someone told me that I couldn't figure out how to install UM2 marlin. Anyone please help.
Here is the link to the files https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin
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I am at the firmware stage for my ultimaker 2 build but i just can't figure out how to work with it or install it. The um2 was built from sourced parts from scratch and i must get this solved or i spent a whole lot of money for nothing. SOMEONE PLEASE HELP GUIDE ME THROOUGH
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I believe that what you should think about is the overall quality and support for when something goes wrong. Like someone in this feed said, ZorTrax has a lack of spare parts and you may only use the filament from them or your warranty will void. I think the um2 would be a great choice if you are looking for a printer with awesome print quality and customer support.
Ultimaker SLA Line
in Coffee corner
Posted · Edited by Guest
SLA is good if you want to make a mould and cast the object without distinct layer lines.