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Jella

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  1. thanks again gr5, I will check again with PLA. Fortunately I have some in the same color I think I will buy some 'fresh' ABS to be sure.
  2. Hello gr5, Thank you for your reply. I have tried your temperature check but I get different results. My ABS does not melt as 'creamy' as yours in the video. Therefore it is not simple to compare the results. The ABS I use came with the printer 3 years ago. It is brittle and not as tough as the PLA that I use. Perhaps it has taken up moisture. Only at 260C I get sort of the same result that you get at 220C, but I should be careful not to jump to conclusions; your ABS is clearly different. I think I should check with my supplier whether my ABS is stil OK. Thanks for your tip on the heat. Having solved the cold bed adhesion stil leaves the printing ambient temperature low. A heated bed solves that too.
  3. I am printing for a few years now on an UMO. Until now I have only used PLA because it has less shrinkage and warping than ABS. For some unknown reason I have never been able to get any succesfull print if I was printing below 240C. This is strange because the recommended printing temperature for PLA is 210 to 220C. Recently I have tried to print with ABS. After having resolved the problem of getting the ABS to stick to an unheated glassplate ( first a layer of PVA or woodglue and on top of that Cube glue for Cube printers ), I just can't get the layers to stick to each other. Only at very slow printing speed ( 10-15 mm/s) and maximum temperature ( 260C ) do the layers stick somewhat but afterwards they are easily torn apart. The material does not 'weld' together like the PLA. When experimenting with PLA years ago I only succeded to tackle the same problem by raising the temperature. But now with ABS I am already at the maximum temperature. I am beginning to suspect that the machine is not reading the right temperature from the nozzle. Is there any way to check if the temperature sensor is giving the right values?
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