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  1. Ahw, shocks... of course. I use Fusion 360 and completely forgot it has more than just the modelling part. Funny, I've been looking all over all the while sitting on top of what I need. Story of my life...
  2. Given a STEP model and material parameters is there software that can model the stress points of the model? I mainly create enclosure prototypes with my UM2+, the target is a molded part eventually. I would like to get some insight by means of computational analysis (FEA?) to understand the weak points of the design when certain force parameters are applied. I know there is all sorts of FEA software but I am not too familiar with these additionally, many have their own specializations. Your recommendations pls...
  3. Hey Alan, re-reading my post I can see how you took it negative, wasn't meant that way. You did answer my other questions indeed, my apologies. Now that you are here, would you mind answering the question about speed?
  4. Thanks for your comments guys. Similar to what @geert_2 mentions to 'heater length', I did ask Thordsen what their max feed rate was to get good efficacy but got no answer on that question. I like the idea of inline heating but question it this can really work in a practical setup. So consensus seems to be; "move on, get a dry-box (of sorts)" 🙂
  5. Does anyone has experience with the Thordsen 3D IFD-175 filament dryer? (https://thordsen3d.com) I find drying filament in an oven (of sorts) cumbersome and this inline filament dryer seems convenient. Can it indeed dry out filament effectively? Any other inline filament dryers you are familiar with?
  6. @jpleaner; did you figure out your issues with clear PLA? I am frequently using the ColorFabb clear nGenn PLA and quite happy with it. But one has to experiment a bit to get things right. I have done a series of 'buttons' (with a high lumen LED behind) about 30mm circumference and perhaps 5mm high, printed at 200C, no fans and 0.8mm nozzle. Not a single brown smirk and nicely matches dimensions.
  7. Bummer, I wish I knew, care to share your store's web link? Um. Are you kidding? You know that when something ends with ".com" it's probably a web link right? (grin) yep, I do understand the .com thing. My browser didn't show that .com nor did it look like a clickable link when hovering over so my bad I missed that. On another note; I installed my new heater and noticed that the temperature stays _a lot more_ constant. With the old heater element I had a swing of about 4-5 deg C around the set point. With the new it is pretty much spot on. (Using Simplify3D to monitor the temps). I wonder if that swing was a sign of failure or if it meant it wasn't screwed down well enough so it could not dissipate its heat properly and failed as a result. The good thing is I am printing again, yay!
  8. Bummer, I wish I knew, care to share your store's web link?
  9. @Torgeir; I did have a look at Robotdigg but they don't list the UM2+ cartridge (35Watt), only the UM2 (25Watt).
  10. Like the title says, my heater cartridge died in my UM2+, about 6 months old. My Ohm meter reads 130k, so it is definitely done. Perhaps 250hours total printing done with it. Seems a little soon for a repair, no? Should I count on having a few in stock? Not knowing how warrantee and that sort of thing works out in the USA, I decided to purchase a replacement cartridge (57 bucks) and do the repair myself. btw, the cartridge and PT sensor just slid out ever so easily, no friction whatsoever. How do these things normally stay in place?
  11. not sure if it is 'normal' but I'd say that the board's silk screen layer is discolored due to heat from the driver chips. Is it 'bad' i.e., is your board about to fail? Probably not.
  12. @peggyb: What was the gcode optimization you were referring to?
  13. @peggyb: yes I have seen these little brown sticky things hanging around. The print this time took over 30 hours. Although hanging around the printer with tweezers to catch them little boogers might be therapeutic, 30 hrs might be a bit too therapeutic. How would I go about optimizing the gcode? I take it you mean to go in and edit directly or set up a different regime from within Cura? @neotko: I've done a few atomics but also put a heat gun at 260C on it to let things drip out and scrap a bit with a tooth pick. I wasn't too impressed with the atomic method to clean the nozzle, heat gun worked much better as verified with a microscope/boroscope. Guess I will have to print at lower temps and hope the adhesion is sufficient.
  14. Yeah, that is what I thought. I've done a few initial prints that did not have this though that was with lower temps, layer adhesion seemed ok but i did not closely inspect. What surprises me is that I get this little poop-lets instead of a sort of continuous stream of dark material. It is as if some part circulates in the block/nozzle a bit, gets burned and then comes out. I am no expert in plastics but wonder if the nozzle's internal structure is not optimal. Oh well, I will need to experiment a bit more to see if prints can be made with good adhesion and no burning.
  15. While printing Taulman t-glase clear I am starting to see this dark spots and stripes (see picture). Can't quite figure out what is going on. I am printing with 255C/60C - am I perhaps too hot and burning the material as it prints? If so I would have expected a more continuous stream of carbonized material. Thoughts anyone?
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