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  1. Hoi Sander, thanks for getting in here; its the small gear (11 teeth) on the feeder motor - see image from aliexpress Curven submitted above. An official gear would be nice to get. Any idea why the gear would be slipping off? Have you guys seen this? I thought gear wear out would be teeth issues, not slow shaft slippin'
  2. Yep, its that small one (11 teeth). I haven't had much luck on aliexpress but for that price its worth a shot, thanks for the reference
  3. Thanks @Curven, that was my first go-to resource, nobody has this gear in stock/sells it. Hence my question here.
  4. Ahw, nobody from ultimaker with a suggestion where i might buy a replacement gear?
  5. The small gear on the feeder motor of my UM2+ keeps slipping off. It is loose enough for me to be able to put it on the motor shaft by hand without all too much force. The problem with it slipping off is that this affects extrusion negatively. Seems it is worn out to the point that it must be replaced? If so, where can I get a replacement?
  6. Ahw, shocks... of course. I use Fusion 360 and completely forgot it has more than just the modelling part. Funny, I've been looking all over all the while sitting on top of what I need. Story of my life...
  7. Given a STEP model and material parameters is there software that can model the stress points of the model? I mainly create enclosure prototypes with my UM2+, the target is a molded part eventually. I would like to get some insight by means of computational analysis (FEA?) to understand the weak points of the design when certain force parameters are applied. I know there is all sorts of FEA software but I am not too familiar with these additionally, many have their own specializations. Your recommendations pls...
  8. Hey Alan, re-reading my post I can see how you took it negative, wasn't meant that way. You did answer my other questions indeed, my apologies. Now that you are here, would you mind answering the question about speed?
  9. Thanks for your comments guys. Similar to what @geert_2 mentions to 'heater length', I did ask Thordsen what their max feed rate was to get good efficacy but got no answer on that question. I like the idea of inline heating but question it this can really work in a practical setup. So consensus seems to be; "move on, get a dry-box (of sorts)" 🙂
  10. Does anyone has experience with the Thordsen 3D IFD-175 filament dryer? (https://thordsen3d.com) I find drying filament in an oven (of sorts) cumbersome and this inline filament dryer seems convenient. Can it indeed dry out filament effectively? Any other inline filament dryers you are familiar with?
  11. @jpleaner; did you figure out your issues with clear PLA? I am frequently using the ColorFabb clear nGenn PLA and quite happy with it. But one has to experiment a bit to get things right. I have done a series of 'buttons' (with a high lumen LED behind) about 30mm circumference and perhaps 5mm high, printed at 200C, no fans and 0.8mm nozzle. Not a single brown smirk and nicely matches dimensions.
  12. Bummer, I wish I knew, care to share your store's web link? Um. Are you kidding? You know that when something ends with ".com" it's probably a web link right? (grin) yep, I do understand the .com thing. My browser didn't show that .com nor did it look like a clickable link when hovering over so my bad I missed that. On another note; I installed my new heater and noticed that the temperature stays _a lot more_ constant. With the old heater element I had a swing of about 4-5 deg C around the set point. With the new it is pretty much spot on. (Using Simplify3D to monitor the temps). I wonder if that swing was a sign of failure or if it meant it wasn't screwed down well enough so it could not dissipate its heat properly and failed as a result. The good thing is I am printing again, yay!
  13. Bummer, I wish I knew, care to share your store's web link?
  14. @Torgeir; I did have a look at Robotdigg but they don't list the UM2+ cartridge (35Watt), only the UM2 (25Watt).
  15. Like the title says, my heater cartridge died in my UM2+, about 6 months old. My Ohm meter reads 130k, so it is definitely done. Perhaps 250hours total printing done with it. Seems a little soon for a repair, no? Should I count on having a few in stock? Not knowing how warrantee and that sort of thing works out in the USA, I decided to purchase a replacement cartridge (57 bucks) and do the repair myself. btw, the cartridge and PT sensor just slid out ever so easily, no friction whatsoever. How do these things normally stay in place?
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