Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

Personal Information

  • Country
  1. Version 1.0


    Made it for a client this week. Printed it out in 4 parts. Supports gave me such a headache and after 3 or 4 failed attempts, I cut the main case in 2 pieces.
  2. Not sure if you are asking me, but yes I have.
  3. Oh Thank goodness, I thought I was the only 1 to have this problem. It has been a massive ball ache since I updated as well. Before I had no problems with PLA. Only had problems with the Formfutura Brass filled one. But now it is with all my filaments.
  4. Thank you. That actually makes a lot of sense. Never even thought of those things.
  5. I have heard 2 conflicting stories about the filament size and was wondering if anyone here can help clarify which is true. 1) Using 1.75 filament that it is better for the printer's motors. 2) The printer was designed to work best with 2.85 and that is why it is the default setting so it won't make a difference.
  6. This thread has helped out a lot. I had the same problem once I updated to the latest Cura. Problem solved. I changed my nozzle temp to 215 and heat bed to 75 degrees.
  7. I have the UM2+ and as far as I know, the the UM2 is also capable of printing with the 1.75 filament without any hardware change. However, ABS can be a bit tricky, you will need to adjust the print temp to the highest setting of 260 degrees. But even then you will need to have printer covered so it is nice and warm. You just need to change 2 settings on the printer. 1st setting : Go to Material>Settings>Customize>Diameter. Then rotate the dial till you reach 1.75 and press the dial. 2nd: On top of the filament feeder you will see a small screw that you can adjust the filament feeder size. Tighten the screw the whole way. You will see on the side as the lever goes up to the top. 3rd: Insert your filament Just one thing to consider, the printer has a habit of changing the diameter back to its default setting of 2.85. So, always check it before a print and after a failed print. Plus, if you turn off the printer then it will also convert back to its default setting. Maybe these settings can help you out with your problem.
  8. Hi. Did you scale the design down by any chance? That can impact the wall thickness to a point where the layer is too small, so the printer will skip it. Have you tried scaling the object to a bigger size to see if it still does the same? I have had similar problems before and it was purely because the details on certain sections were just too small.
  9. I have been playing around with 2D images and using cura to convert it to 3D. I would only recommend using images that don't have to many edges when it extrudes up as different dark or light colours will have different height values. And you will get a lot of stringing, which are almost impossible to clean up. A heat gun will also not work as you will just end up warping the object. Also, even if you could print that small then I doubt you will be able to see what you need to see. You can just as well print out a single layer and cut it to size and put it under the microscope.
  10. Hi. Do you guys think HD glass is a good substitute for ABS, seeing as ABS can be a problem with warping and sticking to the bed? I want to print parts (machine gun, etc) for those remote controlled airplane models and then paint it to look like the original?
  11. I am also new to this (about a month). I used abs juice (acetone mixed with ABS scraps) and that worked really well to keep it stuck to the bed. But the smell annoyed me and the post cleanup also annoyed me a bit as I kept forgetting to add more acetone to the mixture and it got more like a slurry. I then got Kapton tape a few days ago and works like a bomb. No more glue or abs residue to worry about. Now I just need to workout how to easily get the print off the bed (the place I bought it from said they just waited for the bed to reach room temp and then they heard a crack sound and then they can just lift the print off). I have been forced to use a paint scraper, but that sometimes damages the tape and it is expensive. I just found this previous thread before I saw yours. Maybe something here can help you out. https://ultimaker.com/en/community/4955-any-advice-on-how-to-get-abs-to-stick-to-the-glass
  12. Hi. Sorry for taking so long to reply. I have been busy the last few days. Printer has been sorted out. The heater cartridge's cable was broken. And yes Gr5, the re-sellers are now the supporters. And I forgot about the Skype option. (Don't always think clearly when I'm angry) SandervG - I had contacted Ultimaker through FB, because then I could see if they read my msg (they read it almost instantly). That was with my filament feeder problem. I didn't get a response till I emailed Ultimaker about a week later (about the same time I posted this thread) and then sent the same email through FB. I then also sent a msg from the re-sellers that I bought it from. Got replies from everyone the next day. I saw from the website (was looking for online active chat) that my support was the re-sellers and did not want to initially communicate with them. Their communication was terrible. The owner also called me the next day and apologized and we sorted everything out. So all is good. They even paid for overnight shipping to have the printer collected and returned on Friday morning.
  13. I have used ABS juice as well and that worked really well. Just remember to keep topping the jar up with acetone as it will start to evaporate and you will end up with a bit more post clean-up. I got tired of the acetone and ABS smell and bought Kapton tape this week. It works really well, and I mean really well (just need to wash it off every now and again with acetone (fingerprints or dust). Now I struggle to get the prints off and have damaged the tape quite a few times. Anyone have any suggestions? The shop I bought it from said they just left their print beds to cool off and when they heard a snapping/cracking sound, they knew it was ready and could just pick it up without any hassles.
  14. Hi. How can you see/test to see if the heater cartridge cable is working right and that nothing else is the problem?
  15. Hi, sorry if this is a re-post. I can't seem to get Ultimaker to reply to any of my msgs. So, if anyone knows how to get in contact with them other than calling them? I live in RSA, so don't want to call abroad. I bought the Ultimaker 2+ about a month ago. The first problem I had was that the printer came with a blocked nozzle. Second problem, I bought the printer through the only resellers in RSA, where money was added towards the total for printer for training. I have not had the training nor have I heard anything from them and when I complained today they told me I can have the training end of next month! They are useless when it comes to communication as they basically only respond when you want to buy something otherwise you will need to wait about a month for a reply. So, naturally I don't want to deal with them as I was told that I would be getting the support from Ultimaker themselves. Third problem, the feeder didn't feed the filament all the way and just ate through the filament. So, I then sent them a msg on FB so I could see if they received my msg (they did). That was last week and I have not heard a word from them. I have since fixed the problem myself after struggling for 2 days. Their were 2 loose nuts on the back of the filament feeder's housing, which I then glued back into place. Now today, I changed my nozzles around and the heater cartridge won't work. I had this problem yesterday and had to simply unscrew it and put it back and it worked. Today is not so lucky. Sorry for the rant. Just want Ultimaker to reply in a timely manner. I mean I have spent a lot of money on this and I think it is a good buy, the printer prints amazing stuff when it wants to.
  • Create New...