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Everything posted by xile6

  1. I am on the v18 and the screen is fine. Scrolling names work and done some long prints without any screen problems.
  2. Same thing keeps chasing on launch at lest 8/10 times. The ultigcode still isnt fixed and the nozzle drops into the purge. And cant add materials.
  3. I also use marlin on my um2 for different things. And prusaslicer time to time. Just saying cura is made by ultimaker. They should have there basic fix.
  4. Still should be fix since alot of users have an ulitmaker and will use ulticode
  5. Having a problem also. Normally my nozzle will move to the left bring the bed to about 30mm and purge. Then makes it way to the skirt and prints. Now it moves and purges, but then moves the bed to Z0.05 and then to the skirt. This is causing that purged filament to get drag onto the print area. I have checked my old and new gcodes. 4.2 simply has a G0 line with XYZ coordinates. Cura 4.3 has a line with G1 feedrate Z0.05 Then the G1 coordinate code. There is nothing in my starting gcode that would cause this. This is all from just the update.
  6. Id like to know what it is. Sla has become main stream so it seems like they may go that route. To bad my um2 extended is custom build and runs great. Then i got a elegoo mars sla a month ago. They gotta bring something really great.
  7. I was able to mode the gcode to make it happen. Use sed as a gcode read to find the line of the last change. Then turned all the t1 to t0. The hotend is a single nozzle setup so X/Y offset is 0
  8. Ok thanx. Im going to do some testing today with manually editing the gcode.
  9. Is there any way i can change which extruder is used for the support at a Z height? I am printing a dual model. Pretty much 1 color on bottom then another color on top. I would like to print the bottom with extruder 1 for model and support. Then around the time the second extruder starts printing, to switch to using extruder 2 as support. This way i would be able to turn off extruder 1 after a while and have a single color print which would be faster.
  10. Havent printed nylon but in do and have printed petg at 270c. Basically your need two of everything. Spring White pfte couple Metal coupler Osslen block Nozzle Heater Temperature sensor motor and wiring (best to have a matching pair) Extruders (again matching pair) I outputed and made my printer 1.75mm filament. (I run titan extruders) But they do sell everything in the stander 3mm size. The firmware i use is tinkergnome. I took the source files and rebuild it for dual and 1.75mm filament. For leveling the nozzle. I tigthen the metal coupler all the way tight. Check the bed and see which one is higher. I.e. If the left nozzle is touching the bed but the right isnt. Your lossen the right metal coupler. You do a leveling. Where you level the bed to the nozzle that is closest to it. Do this while everything is warm. Then move the second nozzle to the same spot and level it. These are some aliexpress links. Do a search on there to as there are other prices and different length wiring. Block https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/bWwZvjNB Heater https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/b4U2H8DF PT100 Temperature Sensos https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/7r4Dc7n
  11. lol.. I do alot ,built over a hand full of printers modified firmwares etc... Been around since pretty much the start of them pretty much. MY printer also has some other upgrades. 1.75 filament, titan extruders, all aluminum fan shroud, octoprint. My dual upgrade simply needed the heat block, nozzle, heater and temp sensor. Vs buying a whole new hot end and everything else. Was simply my choice. It works just good. There is some oozing which can be dial in setting. But it does what it needs to. Never had a reliability problem. And most of the time i just use 1 nozzle. So i keep different filament in each one, so i dont have to unload and change all the time. Normally pla in one and petg in the other. Also have a palette 2 coming which will do 4 color/materials single nozzle no oozing. So no need for the mark2 upgrade to me. It doesnt have anything over my current setup for me.
  12. The old style olsson block. They use to use springs. Then switch to a solid cylinder. The spring allow you to adjust the height of each nozzle. I order them from aliexpress also done a 1.75 filament conversion. But they do sell it in 3mm also so it will be a direct swap.
  13. @sanderG Ive seen that and does look nice. Just more involved that I want to get lol.
  14. Yes dual is kinda easy. I simpky added another hotend to my ultimaker 2. Then ran the tinkergnome firmware. Level the nozzle and prints fine.
  15. Has anyone had this problem with ocotprint. I was using it today. And everytime i hit print the printer locks up. Now if i remove the sd card in the ultimaker it works 100% fine. I dont know if its just me and some type of hiccup or what. *edit Fix the problem in ocotprint. octoprint > setting > features uncheck enable sd support Now it doesnt lock up when starting a start with sd in the printer.
  16. Source files are arduino files. Change the settings, save it and upload it to your board via arduino ide. No need to build the .hex unless you wanna flash it via cura.
  17. You can use the source for the v17 and change the extruder rotation and steps.
  18. Possobile the skirt distance set wrong?
  19. Basically your finding out how big is the how end. When you pront parts "one at a time" vs "all at once" It will arrange the parts so they can print without the printer head hitting them on the next part.
  20. explain same file. Stl or .gcode? If you printed form sd card the its .gcode file already slice. If you simply loaded that file into cura and printed it via usb. Then it should be the same. If you loaded an stl into cura then it was resliced and probably not setup correctly. The part on the left looks like its melting from overheating. A part cooler fan not turn on of temperature to high. And the size looks like the scaling is off.
  21. Just have to ask what is the full point of this? I simply added another hotend and level the nozzle and the bed with a dial indicator. Im able to print dual and prints turn out great.
  22. Thank you for the information. I check that out and with ooze shield disable and just prime tower. It prints in the correct order. If i do the prime tower and ooze shield, correct order. Just ooze shield wrong order. I will do a few test prints and see how they come out without an ooze shield.
  23. Can you post a video of your doing as it should? I loaded in the mark2 files and added the printer. I didnt change the profile, just added ooze shield. And same problem. Preivee shows that it will do the part first then ooze shield. I also load in the ultimaker 3. I have to doble check, but pretty sure it did the same thing. The head move to the far right (for um3 tool change) but went back to the part and didnt item before ooze shield. Is there an opition in curs i might be missing? When i used cura 15.04 it would do the ooze shield, prime tower if i turn it on, then part.
  24. This is the cura 3.1 software and what it does. Let me know if a print is needed.
  25. I will get a video later today. And this is an ultimaker 2 extend thats converted to dual. I normally use simplify3d for my dual prints with only an ooze shield printed turn iut great. But the support in cura 3.1 is better then simplify3d. So try to use cura for a dual print. Both nozzles will do the first prime. And first laryer is good. Once it gets to the second laryer, It will do T0 ooze shield, item, ooze shield Then T1 item, ooze shield, item. So T1 isnt prime and the item has holes in it. If i add a prime tower the same thing happens. Item before prime tower on nozzle switch. I will get a video in about an hour. But i use the cura play button and i can see if doing just as said
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