xile6
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Posts posted by xile6
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4 minutes ago, bagel-orb said:
I'm rather impressed you are willing to put so much effort into just visualizing the build plate in a different location.
Corona got you locked in?
Lol. Im always in lock down. (Stay at home dad weekend mechanic)
But just had some time and thought about it.
Ive been using cura and my ultimaker since cura 2. (Been used it since 14 for my old other printer).
So its been a while its been like that.
Just finally figured id try something.
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So didnt find any settings to adjust it.
But got to thinking. You can use a custom bed obj.
So took the stock one and resized it and replaced it.
So now i went from the photo with hands. To the photo with the controller.
Still gotta adjust it a little bit. And find out how the ultimaker text is added in.
Then see if i could adjust the /remove the clip grey area.
Then all will be good for me.
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24 minutes ago, bagel-orb said:
But that just mean that everything is already printed more to the right than Cura thinks it will be.
It's just a visualization issue, the actual gcode will already be printed more toward the right, even though it looks in Cura liker it will be printed more on the left side of the bed.
Yea i did a test print. 222mm line.
MY bed is setup for X228. I placed a bar on right side right next to the grey area.
It prints right at X228 then moves to the left 222mm which would be X6.
Which is prefect.
But i would like for the bar to be gone and the edge of the bed be X228.
Just makes more sense visually
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I have an ultimaker 2 and simply wanted to know if there was a way to remove the greyed out print area on the right side.
I understand it is because the nozzle cant reach that area. But i have a custom ultimaker setup and my main nozzle is on the right size.
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On 1/26/2020 at 6:22 AM, tinkergnome said:
I'm quite sure that at least the "garbled" display was fixed pretty soon, but besides that... i do not know.
I don't use this firmware variant anymore - because my printer was converted to "Mark 2" in 2017 (i never used the material change procedure anyway).
Perhaps someone else with an UM2 can check it?
I am on the v18 and the screen is fine.
Scrolling names work and done some long prints without any screen problems.
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Same thing keeps chasing on launch at lest 8/10 times.
The ultigcode still isnt fixed and the nozzle drops into the purge.
And cant add materials.
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2 hours ago, Smithy said:
Has nothing to do if Ultimaker printer or not, I use Marlin for my UM2 printers to have more flexibility (i.e. material settings in Cura vs. on the printer)
I also use marlin on my um2 for different things. And prusaslicer time to time.
Just saying cura is made by ultimaker.
They should have there basic fix.
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1 hour ago, Smithy said:
I guess most users are using Marlin and not Ulticode, so the issue does not occur because they use their own start code.
Still should be fix since alot of users have an ulitmaker and will use ulticode
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Having a problem also.
Normally my nozzle will move to the left bring the bed to about 30mm and purge.
Then makes it way to the skirt and prints.
Now it moves and purges, but then moves the bed to Z0.05 and then to the skirt.
This is causing that purged filament to get drag onto the print area.
I have checked my old and new gcodes.
4.2 simply has a G0 line with XYZ coordinates.
Cura 4.3 has a line with G1 feedrate Z0.05
Then the G1 coordinate code.
There is nothing in my starting gcode that would cause this. This is all from just the update.
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Id like to know what it is.
Sla has become main stream so it seems like they may go that route.
To bad my um2 extended is custom build and runs great.
Then i got a elegoo mars sla a month ago.
They gotta bring something really great.
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I was able to mode the gcode to make it happen.
Use sed as a gcode read to find the line of the last change. Then turned all the t1 to t0.
The hotend is a single nozzle setup so X/Y offset is 0
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Ok thanx. Im going to do some testing today with manually editing the gcode.
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Is there any way i can change which extruder is used for the support at a Z height?
I am printing a dual model. Pretty much 1 color on bottom then another color on top.
I would like to print the bottom with extruder 1 for model and support. Then around the time the second extruder starts printing, to switch to using extruder 2 as support.
This way i would be able to turn off extruder 1 after a while and have a single color print which would be faster.
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2 hours ago, Sam08861 said:
Thanks for posting, xile6!
Your setup looks less complex that than the Mark 2 and I'm wondering how much less costly as well, perhaps. A few questions if you don't mind.
Do you have step by step instructions and parts list?
Also, are you finding that the concerns to raise the 'not in use' nozzle height are perhaps not a major concern in practice?
Finally, have you tried printing 2 colors of nylon?
Havent printed nylon but in do and have printed petg at 270c.
Basically your need two of everything.
Spring
White pfte couple
Metal coupler
Osslen block
Nozzle
Heater
Temperature sensor
motor and wiring (best to have a matching pair)
Extruders (again matching pair)
I outputed and made my printer 1.75mm filament. (I run titan extruders) But they do sell everything in the stander 3mm size.
The firmware i use is tinkergnome.
I took the source files and rebuild it for dual and 1.75mm filament.
For leveling the nozzle.
I tigthen the metal coupler all the way tight.
Check the bed and see which one is higher.
I.e.
If the left nozzle is touching the bed but the right isnt.
Your lossen the right metal coupler.
You do a leveling. Where you level the bed to the nozzle that is closest to it. Do this while everything is warm.
Then move the second nozzle to the same spot and level it.
These are some aliexpress links. Do a search on there to as there are other prices and different length wiring.
Block
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/bWwZvjNBHeater
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/b4U2H8DFPT100 Temperature Sensos
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/7r4Dc7n -
12 minutes ago, SandervG said:
Ok, that is fine. But if you want to modify your Ultimaker 2 to dual extrusion, and only printing a new print head housing and docking station (almost all other parts are included in the available extrusion train upgrade if I'm not mistaken) is too much work I am afraid that you will have to significantly compromise in reliability. Making something reliably dual extrusion takes far more into account than just installing a second nozzle.
lol..
I do alot ,built over a hand full of printers modified firmwares etc... Been around since pretty much the start of them pretty much. MY printer also has some other upgrades. 1.75 filament, titan extruders, all aluminum fan shroud, octoprint.
My dual upgrade simply needed the heat block, nozzle, heater and temp sensor. Vs buying a whole new hot end and everything else.
Was simply my choice. It works just good. There is some oozing which can be dial in setting. But it does what it needs to. Never had a reliability problem. And most of the time i just use 1 nozzle. So i keep different filament in each one, so i dont have to unload and change all the time. Normally pla in one and petg in the other.
Also have a palette 2 coming which will do 4 color/materials single nozzle no oozing.
So no need for the mark2 upgrade to me. It doesnt have anything over my current setup for me.
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1 hour ago, Futz34 said:
Thanks guys. Xile6, where did you buy your hotend from? Yours looks different from mine with the spring setup inside.
The old style olsson block. They use to use springs. Then switch to a solid cylinder. The spring allow you to adjust the height of each nozzle.
I order them from aliexpress also done a 1.75 filament conversion. But they do sell it in 3mm also so it will be a direct swap.
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@sanderG
Ive seen that and does look nice. Just more involved that I want to get lol.
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Yes dual is kinda easy.
I simpky added another hotend to my ultimaker 2.
Then ran the tinkergnome firmware.
Level the nozzle and prints fine.
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Has anyone had this problem with ocotprint.
I was using it today.
And everytime i hit print the printer locks up.
Now if i remove the sd card in the ultimaker it works 100% fine.
I dont know if its just me and some type of hiccup or what.
*edit
Fix the problem in ocotprint.
octoprint > setting > features
uncheck enable sd supportNow it doesnt lock up when starting a start with sd in the printer.
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1 minute ago, killerb77 said:
Not sure how to do anything of that. I am using Arduino IDE for windows. You wouldn't happen to have instructions somewhere? I have an linux virtual machine.
Source files are arduino files. Change the settings, save it and upload it to your board via arduino ide.
No need to build the .hex unless you wanna flash it via cura.
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2 hours ago, killerb77 said:
It is my understanding that Ultimaker2Marlin is for the ultimaker 2 and UM2.1-Firmware is for the ultimaker 2+. It doesn't appear at least by the dates on the tinkergnome github that the UM2.1-Firmware is up to date with V17.10.1.
I am interested in the source files for tinkergnome V17.10.1 for the ultimaker 2 plus extended as I want to compile it myself. I need to compile myself as there are a couple of changes for the bondtech DDG extruder. Where can I find that source?
Thank you in advance.
You can use the source for the v17 and change the extruder rotation and steps.
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Possobile the skirt distance set wrong?
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Basically your finding out how big is the how end.
When you pront parts "one at a time" vs "all at once"
It will arrange the parts so they can print without the printer head hitting them on the next part.
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explain same file.
Stl or .gcode?
If you printed form sd card the its .gcode file already slice.
If you simply loaded that file into cura and printed it via usb. Then it should be the same.
If you loaded an stl into cura then it was resliced and probably not setup correctly.
The part on the left looks like its melting from overheating. A part cooler fan not turn on of temperature to high.
And the size looks like the scaling is off.
Remove Grey print area
in UltiMaker Cura
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Cool thanx. Ill look into them.
I see it but gotta play with the numbers and see what it effects.
And yea at this point i could use a base printer profile and just add in what i need.