ClausJ

I have started using Cura for the majority of my prints but supports are still a pain. Trying to copy all settings from S3d but support from Cura needs a chisel to remove while S3d support removes without effort. Is there a magic setting I have overlooked? Claus

Thank you tinkergnome, The link you provide clarifys that initial printing temp is not relevant to me. However it’s still preventing me from slicing if set wrong, due to conflict with the small layer temp setting. Apparently I’m not alone being confused 10 years of printing with Simplify3d did not prepare me for Cura 😉

I am not able to slice anything either. Don't understand what I'm supposed to do. EDIT: Ok, "Initial printing temperature" has to be lowered while "Printing temperature initial layer" can be whatever. Not sure I understand. I want my initial layer to be printed at 230°, next layers at 210°. So if I want to have small layers printed at 210° I have to allow the printer to start printing the first layer at 210°. But I want the first layer printing at 230°, not at 210°...

Sander, proud to meet you. I never doubted you exist. My conclusion is: Printing is made easier with Cura plugins for popular cad apps. Cloud management of print files will be provided. Also material profiles can be shared and managed online. Got it. Thanks! Claus

I tried to watch your ceo presentation but gave up. Lots of corporate talk about where you want to be as a company. Hope you at some point will communicate in fewer words what you plan to offer and how it benefits your current users. Claus

I had this problem with 2 of my 3 printers located in 3 different countries. One of them I changed the printhead heater and it seemed to do the trick. The other one was difficult. I had to hunt down the problem by exchanging parts between them. That ruled out the power supply, the motherboard, the heaters, the led lights. In the end I sent the machine, now made up of original and exchanged parts, in for repair. The original dealer in Denmark had been blacklisted by Ultimaker so I had to find another. The printer came back with an invoice of 800 euros. And it failed the first print. Fed up with this process that dragged out over 6 months while I travelled between countries with detached parts, and the almost complete lack of help from Ultimaker, I asked the repair person if he would swop my broken Ultimaker 2 extended + for a new Creality CR-10 Max and he agreed. It is now my printer of choice, I have 3 of them and all together they cost a little more than a single of the Ultimakers. The problem with this is that if you have problems you’re on your own. You may be lucky it’s “just” the power supply. If not you may start changing every single part until you find the broken one. In my case I suspect it was more than one, hence impossible to isolate. Consider how much you want to spend fixing your printer. Good luck!

I recently wanted to do this on my 2 extended+, bought a kit from 3dsolex. He also makes compatible nozzles. Several problems, the filament would not pass through the new bowden tube, it’s a thin tube inside a larger one and the thin tube would curl up. I tried to order other bowden tubes but could not find a working solution. Next problem was the feeder, it would not grab the filament. There are some plastic walls inside the feeder that prevents the wheels from touching the filament. I broke off those walls and could get it to feed. However because of the bowden tube problem I finally gave it up. Waste of time and money.

So, I finally got back to my printer in France and changed the two fans, one of the wires had been pinched during during one of my numerous services to the printhead and some of the metal inside had become exposed. While I did not think it would be a problem as long as it did not touch anything, changing the ventilators actually seems to have fixed the problem.

Just watched your video, your problem seems different than mine. My prints dont fail right at the beginning, it always starts printing and shuts off randomly even just before the end of a print.

Mcrubens, my Ultimaker is from june 2016 but since it's located in my summer recidence I only use it half the year. I did not change the build plate but I did try printing with heating off and I still got the failure. Sorry that I can't confirm your theory.

Erin, I appreciate your input. My reseller told me to disconnect the LED's which I did and then told me to bring it in which is difficult since I bought it in Denmark and moved it to France. As I wrote in my post I did test the power supply on another machine so it's ruled out. At first I changed the heater because the wires had become exposed and would accidentally short circuit. However reading your post I should probably try to disconnect one of the fans that has a slightly damaged wire. I did not think it was damaged enough to give me the error but it's worth a try.

I agree, only I bought the printer in Denmark and moved it to France. Of course I could pack it up and send it away for repair which would be costly. And with all the spare parts available the whole concept is that these things are user repairable, as long as you know what’s wrong. Anyway I don’t expect any help here so I’ll stop bitching about it. When I get back to France in 5 months I’ll send it off.

Wow, a response! Petre, I removed the motherboard from the failing machine and brought it with me from France to Denmark where I have another Ultimaker. I also brought the power supply from the failing machine. I installed both the motherboard and the powersupply in the non-failing Danish machine and it worked flawlessly. So that rules out the previously changed heater, the power supply and the motherboard. My Danish dealer suggested it was the LED strips but I disconnected them from the motherboard which did not prevent the fail so they can be excluded too. I’m wondering if anybody from Ultimaker would care to give me a hint. SandervG?

I'm surprised nobody from Ultimaker wants to help me out here. So am I supposed to start changing every piece in the machine one by one? Surely there must be a way to diagnose it? Thanks Claus

Recently my printer started shutting down and restarting during print. In addition the led light flickers periodically. It looks like there is not enough power because if I turn the heated bed off the restarts don't occur allthough I still notice the lights flickering. I already changed the heating element of the printhead but the problem still persists. I gather from other posts that the problem might be the power supply or the motherboard. Og course just changing parts is easy but expensive. Is there any way to diagnostic this? Thanks in advance Claus

After my experience with Makergeek I ordered a spool from atomicfilament. Arrived fast, accept Apple Pay, prints great with a nice matte finish. In addition they have a dark grey color that I prefer. As an industrial designer I am amazed how difficult it is to find a neutral grey. For reviewing a shape I don't want a color and black hides the details, white show the imperfections of the print, metallic is too reflective. Alas a matte clay color is ideal. Claus

My experience with MakerGeeks: Ordered a spool of "grey matter grey" pla january 4.th. Inquired after a week where it was, got told it was out of stock and would be sent in 5 days. A week later the order had not arrived and it turned out it got automatically cancelled after a period. So I reorder and it finally arrives, it's semintransparent, no mention on their website. So I ask costumer service about another color and get confirmation it's opaque. I order a spool and guess what, same thing happens, no tracking info after a week, email them, its out of stock, will be sent after 5-7 business days. I complain about it and in return, without further notice, they cancel my order, which I never asked for. At the same time they refunded the semi transparent. Cant help feeling I got kicked out of the shop...

I don't know about Ultimaker branded filament but you can buy Innofil filament on Amazon. This is a good quality brand.

Got the replacement rods and bearings today, they were easy to replace. These new parts are much tighter and there is no more rattle. However examining the two sets I removed there is quite a play on both of them. Seems to be a bad batch of either rod or bearing, hence probably installed in other machines than mine.

Thanks a lot for all the advice. There is no doubt the rattle comes from the bearings, the fitting seems to be off, there is too much play. I should receive a new set of shafts and bearings and as soon as they arrive, I will compare.

I bought my third Ultimaker 2 Extended plus a month ago. From day one it is printing with a rattling noise and by wiggling the printhead it feels like the bearings are not holding the rods properly. Does anybody have experience with bad bearings? Ultimaker USA support think it's because it needs cleaning and greasing but I already did that and why does a brand new machine need greasing anyway? I have a few videos but I don't know how to upload them to this forum. Thanks, Claus

Thanks all. I ordered with Printedsolid - on a sunday, and Matthew responded immediately and we closed the order. I'm sure they are all good though. Claus

Look at the range of ViaCad products and the top model of the same line SharkFx. Shark is my daily workhorse and there is nothing that can make me change. As soon as you get it under your skin it's the fastest modeller out there and all versions are priced reasonably. Tech support is great too. Claus

Thanks for the answers, I will make my order with one of them. Claus

I'm about to order a printer for use in USA, I wonder if someone has experience with one of the US dealers, any recommendations? Thanks Claus