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Everything posted by ClausJ

  1. I recently wanted to do this on my 2 extended+, bought a kit from 3dsolex. He also makes compatible nozzles. Several problems, the filament would not pass through the new bowden tube, it’s a thin tube inside a larger one and the thin tube would curl up. I tried to order other bowden tubes but could not find a working solution. Next problem was the feeder, it would not grab the filament. There are some plastic walls inside the feeder that prevents the wheels from touching the filament. I broke off those walls and could get it to feed. However because of the bowden tube problem I finally gave it
  2. So, I finally got back to my printer in France and changed the two fans, one of the wires had been pinched during during one of my numerous services to the printhead and some of the metal inside had become exposed. While I did not think it would be a problem as long as it did not touch anything, changing the ventilators actually seems to have fixed the problem.
  3. Just watched your video, your problem seems different than mine. My prints dont fail right at the beginning, it always starts printing and shuts off randomly even just before the end of a print.
  4. Mcrubens, my Ultimaker is from june 2016 but since it's located in my summer recidence I only use it half the year. I did not change the build plate but I did try printing with heating off and I still got the failure. Sorry that I can't confirm your theory.
  5. Erin, I appreciate your input. My reseller told me to disconnect the LED's which I did and then told me to bring it in which is difficult since I bought it in Denmark and moved it to France. As I wrote in my post I did test the power supply on another machine so it's ruled out. At first I changed the heater because the wires had become exposed and would accidentally short circuit. However reading your post I should probably try to disconnect one of the fans that has a slightly damaged wire. I did not think it was damaged enough to give me the error but it's worth a try.
  6. I agree, only I bought the printer in Denmark and moved it to France. Of course I could pack it up and send it away for repair which would be costly. And with all the spare parts available the whole concept is that these things are user repairable, as long as you know what’s wrong. Anyway I don’t expect any help here so I’ll stop bitching about it. When I get back to France in 5 months I’ll send it off.
  7. Wow, a response! Petre, I removed the motherboard from the failing machine and brought it with me from France to Denmark where I have another Ultimaker. I also brought the power supply from the failing machine. I installed both the motherboard and the powersupply in the non-failing Danish machine and it worked flawlessly. So that rules out the previously changed heater, the power supply and the motherboard. My Danish dealer suggested it was the LED strips but I disconnected them from the motherboard which did not prevent the fail so they can be excluded too. I’m wondering if anybod
  8. I'm surprised nobody from Ultimaker wants to help me out here. So am I supposed to start changing every piece in the machine one by one? Surely there must be a way to diagnose it? Thanks Claus
  9. Recently my printer started shutting down and restarting during print. In addition the led light flickers periodically. It looks like there is not enough power because if I turn the heated bed off the restarts don't occur allthough I still notice the lights flickering. I already changed the heating element of the printhead but the problem still persists. I gather from other posts that the problem might be the power supply or the motherboard. Og course just changing parts is easy but expensive. Is there any way to diagnostic this? Thanks in advance Claus
  10. After my experience with Makergeek I ordered a spool from atomicfilament. Arrived fast, accept Apple Pay, prints great with a nice matte finish. In addition they have a dark grey color that I prefer. As an industrial designer I am amazed how difficult it is to find a neutral grey. For reviewing a shape I don't want a color and black hides the details, white show the imperfections of the print, metallic is too reflective. Alas a matte clay color is ideal. Claus
  11. My experience with MakerGeeks: Ordered a spool of "grey matter grey" pla january 4.th. Inquired after a week where it was, got told it was out of stock and would be sent in 5 days. A week later the order had not arrived and it turned out it got automatically cancelled after a period. So I reorder and it finally arrives, it's semintransparent, no mention on their website. So I ask costumer service about another color and get confirmation it's opaque. I order a spool and guess what, same thing happens, no tracking info after a week, email them, its out of stock, will be sent after 5-7 business
  12. I don't know about Ultimaker branded filament but you can buy Innofil filament on Amazon. This is a good quality brand.
  13. Got the replacement rods and bearings today, they were easy to replace. These new parts are much tighter and there is no more rattle. However examining the two sets I removed there is quite a play on both of them. Seems to be a bad batch of either rod or bearing, hence probably installed in other machines than mine.
  14. Thanks a lot for all the advice. There is no doubt the rattle comes from the bearings, the fitting seems to be off, there is too much play. I should receive a new set of shafts and bearings and as soon as they arrive, I will compare.
  15. I bought my third Ultimaker 2 Extended plus a month ago. From day one it is printing with a rattling noise and by wiggling the printhead it feels like the bearings are not holding the rods properly. Does anybody have experience with bad bearings? Ultimaker USA support think it's because it needs cleaning and greasing but I already did that and why does a brand new machine need greasing anyway? I have a few videos but I don't know how to upload them to this forum. Thanks, Claus
  16. Thanks all. I ordered with Printedsolid - on a sunday, and Matthew responded immediately and we closed the order. I'm sure they are all good though. Claus
  17. Look at the range of ViaCad products and the top model of the same line SharkFx. Shark is my daily workhorse and there is nothing that can make me change. As soon as you get it under your skin it's the fastest modeller out there and all versions are priced reasonably. Tech support is great too. Claus
  18. Thanks for the answers, I will make my order with one of them. Claus
  19. I'm about to order a printer for use in USA, I wonder if someone has experience with one of the US dealers, any recommendations? Thanks Claus
  20. There is really no way to completely deselect skirt/brim (unless in simple mode) but I set everything to zero and the maximum build area available is 187 x 191 mm. Again I'm not sure how to deactivate the second nozzle alltogether in the software, maybe that's the problem. Anyway going from a build area of 225 x 225 to 190 x 190 is quite a step down. I wonder why no one made a hack to make the machine pause when material runs out. Should be easy enough, you thread the filament through a dongle connected to the motherboard, when no filament is present a pause command is sent. Anyway that would
  21. Wow, thanks guys for the fast reply. Playing with Cura 2.3 I get a build area of 171 x 171 mm when using two materials and 191 x 191 mm when using only one (btw how to select "none" for print core 2?). How can I achieve the advertised build area of 215 x 215 mm? Thanks
  22. New model seems to have nice features but I have a few questions: • What is the reason for the reduced print area? • Can I use the same size spools as with UM2? • Can I use the same material (same color) in each printhead and if one runs out the other takes over? • Will the printer know it's out of material and pause to let me reload? • How soon after launch will other nozzles be available? I use 0.8 mm a lot. • How long will I have to soak a model before the support dissolves? • Is the overall printing speed the same as Ultimaker 2? Thanks in advance Claus
  23. Dear Makershop representative It's absolutely true that returning an unwrapped product is probably no problem at Makershop, however I wonder how often this is relevant, since it is when you see the actual product out of it's box, you know you made a mistake. At first, I simply wanted to send back the product I ordered by mistake, and get the right one for my printer in stead - and pay the transport and the small difference in price of course. Wether or not this would be some kind of exchange or simply the return of one product and the purchase of another should not matter, the point is, that
  24. 2 weeks ago I bought an Ultimaker 2+ Extended in Denmark and since I spend some months working in France during summer I brought it with me. Being here in France I found a cover for the Ultimaker that I thought whould be practical. It is for sale at makershop.fr, apparently the main reseller of Ultimaker in France. On the surface Makershop.fr looks like a great place to shop. Expert advice always available on the phone, 24 hour shipping and a “generous” 14 days return policy “no questions asked”. As they write on their site, translated from French, “we go further than the return policy requir
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