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jakepoz

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  1. Will do, so far durability is good, but only been ~1 month and ~1 spool of filament I've put through in that time. I've also done PLA, which I found doesn't really stress any parts as much as something like ABS/CPE+ does. Will keep you posted.
  2. Only because 220x was "recommended for Ultimaker 2" on their site, but 235 is perhaps a better choice.
  3. Hey, I really wanted to experience a PEI powder-coated bed on my Ultimaker 2+, so I purchased this upgrade: https://www.filamentone.com/collections/ultistik-flexplate/products/ultistik-premium-powder-coated-ultem-pei-build-plate-220-x-220 (Plate) https://www.filamentone.com/products/ultistik-magnet-base-220-x-220?_pos=2&_sid=3bf80021c&_ss=r (Magnetic Base) Below is my review: After reading about the powder coated PEI beds available with printers like the Prusa i3, I decided to find one that would work on an Ultimaker 2+. Previously, I have printed on - Included glass with gluestick (messy, prone to glass chipping) - Ultimaker's Adhesion sheets (adds more work, needs to be replaced often) - Geckotek adhesive sheets (sticks amazingly well! I can print many parts with no adhesion brim, but sometimes sticks too well and is hard to remove, and can damage the parts) - Raw blue painter's tape on an unheated bed back in the day (you don't want to go there) I have to say, this new Ultistik plate is fantastic! I spent a few extra moments to really nail down the leveling, and parts stick amazingly well. So well that the little priming blob which sometimes falls onto the heated bed gets stuck to it. And then, when the part is done, it takes just a few seconds to pop off the plate, flex the part off, and start the next print job. I am printing medium size objects without any extra adhesion brim. I've tested with PLA only at this point, but the manufacturer claims it works on PLA, ABS, ASA, PETG, and TPU also. Installation is rather simple, you just remove the adhesive back on the magnetic plate, and stick it onto your glass. I accidentally started applying the magnetic base a bit crooked, and it was impossible to restart the operation to make it straight again. On the downsides, the 220x220mm size is a bit smaller than the actual build plate, which means you'll lose some printable area. Another downside is that you may need to use some small binder clips instead of the default Ultimaker clips to attach the glass back to the heated bed. Either way, I think I'll keep a spare plain glass plate for those situations which require it, but this new plate is my default choice from now on. Disclosure: I researched and purchased this product on my own with no affiliation to the sellers. I paid for the product with my own money and there are no affiliate codes in my review.
  4. Thanks everyone, this is great advice. Yes, it is for mounting electronics which are quite large. I think I will try it as two separate parts first.
  5. Hey all, I've got a project to print, and it turns out it's just a few cm too large to print on my Ultimaker 2+. I thought I could split up the design into multiple pieces and fit them together, but perhaps it would work if printed "diagonally"? I have some threaded holes along the original Z axis I'd like to preserve. Is there a way to make the support more "sane" for such a configuration?
  6. Hey, been printing on an Ultimaker 2+ with CPE lately. I noticed that plastic tends to accumulate on the nozzle tip, and eventually this falls off onto the part that's being printed, leaving an ugly scar or burn mark. Every part I print has a couple places where black, carbonized CPE has brushed off from the nozzle and gotten embedded in the part. Seems to happen with Ultimaker CPE (Red), Ultimaker CPE+ (clear), as well as MatterHackers PETG (Red). I have been using default settings from Cura 3.5. I never had this issue with PLA, parts were always beautiful. Does anyone have any ideas?
  7. I'm curious: is that an aluminum bed in those pictures, or the standard glass one. Could that be contributing to more heat transfer to the part itself and therefore the folding of those layers? @model_dude I saw your thread here: Is this what you mean by lower-wall cave in?
  8. I've used the GeckoTek products which seemed better reviewed than BuildTak. The only trouble is that sometimes parts stick even too well, and could get damaged when prying them off. But seriously, have been able to finally make large (taking up the entire plate) designs with zero warp. https://www.geckotek.co/ The product that just sticks on like an adhesive sheet worked best, it might even be compatible with auto leveling. (Using an UM 2+ here)
  9. This is what happens to PLA when it's too hot. Try lowering the print temperature, or maybe print with the doors open. (Can't see your screenshots, they aren't loading for me). This happens to me as well with PLA, as the first few layers are exposed to the heat of the heat bed and they tend to peel up like that. You could try a different material, like CPE+, as well. It's especially prevalent if you have an angle that starts very low down to the bed like your cup does. I think this helps trap heat down there.
  10. Yeah, the BB core is designed without a little "lip" on the inside of the nozzle that normally helps prevent oozing. This was a tradeoff so that you don't get carbonized material building up in there and clogging.
  11. No, you did nothing wrong. Each filament will have a different temperature range that's necessary for good prints. If you have an Ultimaker 2/2+ you may have reduced lifetime on the hot-end coupler at higher temps however. For the best experience, I'd recommend going back to the original Ultimaker PLA (yes it can be pricey, but it really works well).
  12. I've had a lot of luck printing internal threads, even down to M3 size on my UM2+ (.1mm layer height, PLA, default settings). The caveat is that the holes need to be oriented vertically along the Z axis. The threaded connection is quite strong for my purpose, which is an electronics enclosure. There are holes for M3 bolts in the lid, and pre-printed threaded holes in the box. You can just screw in M3 bolts without worrying about nuts/nut traps so it's very convenient. I can definitely see how it would struggle though if they weren't vertically oriented and had support material to deal with. @geert_2 I agree that tapping PLA does tend to create a mess though.
  13. Can anyone with experience printing with the official Ultimaker PC filament share their thoughts? The documentation mentions it's difficult to print with this material due to the high temperatures required. Here are some questions I had in mind: Did you have problems with warping? Did the adhesive sheets and front cover that Ultimaker sells help? Is it possible to print large parts and achieve good strength with the recommended default settings? Any pictures of completed parts would be helpful too.
  14. The original Ultimaker brand ones are guaranteed to work perfectly. You may have noticed they are a bit pricey though. I really like the Protoparadigm stuff, it's inexpensive, but it's Ingeo 3D850 resin, and actually 2.85mm. http://www.protoparadigm.com/advanced-ingeo-pla/ Just don't get the really el-cheapo ebay stuff, that has never worked well for me. (filament breaking, discoloration in the sun, brittle prints, etc)
  15. I like ProtoParadigm in the United States. http://www.protoparadigm.com/advanced-ingeo-pla/ You may notice that the Silver is very close to the original Ultimaker filament, and it prints with identical settings. I've also tried the Sapphire and it looks fantastic.
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