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harmenschippers

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harmenschippers last won the day on June 2 2017

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    Engineering

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  1. I've something weird going on. Yesterday I changed material from pla to abs and made a single color print. When the print is finished the printer retracts all the filament out of the printer and then the head will go to home position. Today I had the same behaviour. I did not have this issue printing with pla. I sliced the model with S3D, but I haven't changed Gcode or anything. Is this a firmware thing? or am I doing something wrong.
  2. @harmenschippers - where do you got the power supply at this price? AFAIK it is (usually) much more expensive... Can you share the source? @tinkergnome - I've bought the power supply at "Koning & Hartman" (dutch store) and the exact amount was €77,15 ex.vat.. ...and can you share some details about how to make the adapter? That would be great! I will share the details how to make one when I'm back this weekend. I've to go in about 10 minutes :-). I will make a drawing and post that later. I will also look up the number of the plug I used. I ordered it from mouser and was around €5. I will come back to this. IMHO the defaults are: 175 / 150 / 35 / 35 Thanks a lot. I will try to print the cone again with these settings. Yesterday I’ve printed a successful cone with the standard ‘Power Budget’ settings (thanks @tinkergnome) with the new power supply. The printer behaved like normal again. With changing the ‘power budget’ everything took more time. in summary what I used: - (new) power supply: MeanWell GST280A24-C6P, it has a 6 pin molex connector (bought at Koning & Hartman, €77,15 ex.vat (dutch store), Link datasheet: http://www.meanwell.com/scripts/resource/pdfJS/web/viewer.html?f=GST280A&pdf=GST280A-SPEC.PDF - (R7B equivalent) Kycon KPPX-4P plug (bought at Mouser, €5,36) - 6 pins molex plug (got it from work) - (DIY) adapter cable from 6 pin molex to 4 pin Kycon (see drawing how I made it) - some 0,75mm² wires, solder and heat shrink tubes I think you don’t have to make this adapter cable necessarily. You can also cut the 6 pin molex plug and at the Kycon plug to 6 wires of the power supply. You can still use the (simple) drawing I made for reference. On the molex side I gave pin3 (V+) two wires. One of them soldered together to wire1 and the other one soldered to wire 2. I did the same with pin6(V-). The one soldered to wire 4 and the other one to pin 5. On the kycon side make sure you solder V+ and V- on the correct pins. On the frontside, V+ is on the right side and V- on the left side. The hard part was to put the soldered wires into the pins of the Kycon plug. Patience and you’ll manage. Make sure you put over every pin a heat shrink tube just to be absolutely sure to have no short circuit. Also make sure that the 6 wires are not to wide for the plug otherwise the plug parts won’t fit together. I did some tape around it to make it look nice (not necessary at all).
  3. @harmenschippers - where do you got the power supply at this price? AFAIK it is (usually) much more expensive... Can you share the source? @tinkergnome - I've bought the power supply at "Koning & Hartman" (dutch store) and the exact amount was €77,15 ex.vat.. ...and can you share some details about how to make the adapter? That would be great! I will share the details how to make one when I'm back this weekend. I've to go in about 10 minutes :-). I will make a drawing and post that later. I will also look up the number of the plug I used. I ordered it from mouser and was around €5. I will come back to this. IMHO the defaults are: 175 / 150 / 35 / 35 Thanks a lot. I will try to print the cone again with these settings.
  4. I recently bought a new PSU just to the test if the printer can work with the original power budget settings. The PSU is a slightly better than the original. - Power supply original: MeanWell GST220A24 - Power supply new: MeanWell GST280A24 (around €75 ex. vat). It comes with a six pin molex plug so I made a 6 to 4 pin adapter cable. You see the only thing changed is the watts from 220W to 280W. Maybe an upgrade of the power supply will improve the stability of the power usage and not using the max of the power supply (if that is the problem). It could be an option to think about when you do the mark2 upgrade. Now I have a question about the power budget (I'm feeling pretty stupid), but I can't remember what my original power budget settings were and I want to start from there. Is there a way where to find these original settings? I know the last 2 numbers were ...W/...W/35W/35W. I'm using a Ultimaker 2+ extended (if that is relevant). I thought of one option and that is doing a factory reset, but I don't know what will happen and everything seems to work now and have been calibrated. But if that will bring the original numbers back of the power budget settings I will do a factory reset, but I was hoping for someone that maybe knows these things :-).
  5. (maybe a stupid question) Do you set the z axis also for extruder 1? if yes, I haven't done that. Just calibrate your buildplate with extruder 1 just how you normally would do and then set the z axis for extruder 2. if not, I haven't said anything...
  6. Have to agree with what foehnsturm has said - there have been a couple of us who have had this problem at the start - once a suitable value has been entered into the Y offset it works superbly For help, my offsets are: X 18.20 Y -24.95 - Maybe good starter input positions? I've done this to solve this issue. Pages 7 and 8 covers most of this problem.
  7. Thanks, I will try with less temperature. For the dual print I used Cura, but normally I work with S3D and for the single color prints I prefer S3D. Good idea SyntaxTerror and I'll add my settings which I've never had problems with on having a shutdown. Using your board (VMT) with extrusion upgrade kit on main head (UM2 Ex) and original UM2 head /extruder as second head - I have changed the temperature probe and heater (40W) to UM2+ specs. My power settings: 160/150/45/45 - hope this helps. I think it's a great idea as well. Maybe it's also good to note what kind of power supply we have. brand, type, watts.
  8. I did it ...Got my first dual extrusion print. It came out pretty well. I think I have to calibrate the settings it a little bit. There is a lot of extra filament coming out of the second extruder. I don't know how it's called. When the second head will start it's part of the layer there is always coming some filament out of the nozzle and that messes up the print a little, but I'm still satisfied. My power settings at the moment are 125W/170W/80W/80W. I also pre heated the bed first to 60 degrees, before I started the print. Not intentionally, but I figured that when I was slicing up the print file I could pre heat the bed so that the print would start a lot faster. I will start a print with the same settings tomorrow, but not with a pre heated bed. I will let you know if that came out well again.
  9. I changed the values for the next print myself in the json file and now it didn't occur. Thanks :-). I hope this one will make it to the end. The settings I gave just gave a immediate power shut off after the bed was heated up. So now I changed the values to 125W/160W/50W/50W. Would it help to get another power supply? or should it just work with the given power supply from MeanWell 221W.
  10. I've installed the firmware and did the calibration. I came across the well known bugs and solved them. The first print I made today went well till the last 1/4 of the print. The UM just stopped. TheFox had this issue as well. I now have changed the power budget from 140W/150W/40W/40W to 125W/150W/40W/40W. Tomorrow I will try this setting. Or do I have to alter the numbers a little more? Also I have this issue... I couldn't find an answer in this thread. Is there a solution for this problem?
  11. Hey Guys, I'm almost done with adding the Mark2 modification on my Ultimaker 2+ extended. It's been going very well. I only have to do some wiring and then I hope I'm able to start calibration this week and do my first 2 color print :-). Just wanted to say that I've printed every part with Ultimaker PC filament and everything went pretty well, but I had to print every part individually for good results. I also printed part "head-a" a little different. I turned it 90 degrees so that the 4 mounting holes are on the bed. I only added support for the big overhang. I also noted that I don't have an extra hole in the back for the wiring so I will print a cable tray and route the wires through that to the underside of the printer (but first I will test the upgrade, because I can't wait any longer :-)). I will post it later on for people who may also need this cable tray.
  12. Hi, I have a question about printing the needed parts. In the manual it is recommended to print the parts in high temp PLA. That is ok, but will it deform when I want to print something in PC? If yes, is it better to print all the parts in PC? Also somewhere it says that it is a good option to print some parts with semiflex material. What do you recommend and is easy to order for someone living in the Netherlands. Thanks in advance! Really looking forward making this Mark2 upgrade on my Ultimaker 2+ Extended (with 5th motor driver, I checked!)
  13. I checked and I accidentally chose the wrong printer. I needed to have checked the extended + and not the extended. I will try it now, but I think it will go well this time. I already thought that I was missing something, because more people would have had the same issue. Thank a lot
  14. Yesterday I thought to update to Cura 2.1.3 from 15.4.6. Finally I had some time to figure out the new Cura and I like the software already. I came across a weird bug, for me anyway. I updated the firmware for the machine with the firmware that comes along with cura 2.1.3. Everything did go as planned, but when I wanted to change material the machine was acting weird. No filament came out of the back door. I noticed that machine wanted to push it all out of the nozzle instead, but with such speed the filament started to grind in the feeder till it had no grip to push the filament in. I thought maybe I did something wrong so when everything was removed by hand I started to do the "change filament" procedure again and I saw that the feeder is turning the wrong way in every step of the procedure. So in every step of the "change filament" procedure the feeder is turning the wrong way. Can I fix this in the firmware file somewhere? Is someone having the same issue? I noticed that the "change filament" procedure is slightly changed in the last firmware update. Maybe something goes wrong there. I downgraded the machine to 15.4.6 and everything worked well again.
  15. I want to thank you for your quick answers and excuse me for my late reply. I have tried it with the Cura beta 2.x.x version and the part could be printed. But I will try what you suggested, because I think the Cura 15.x.x version works much better. (I don't know the exact versions).
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