pluggedIN
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Posts posted by pluggedIN
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ah! That's perfect. Thank you!
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I have a Ultimaker 2+ that I would like to sell. Ideally I would sell it to someone locally in the US. What is a good price I should expect it to sell it at?
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Alternatively there is an awesome feature in cura 2.7 - search for "horizontal". It's something like "horizontal expansion first layer only". Set that to about -.25mm and it will take care of your problem in the gear pictures.
I have NO idea what that horizontal feature does but it worked great! I used to be a huge Simplify3D fan, but Cura is slowly luring me back.
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I like that video! I cleaned off my glass plate better. Also, I took kmanstudios suggestions and printed slower and 5 degrees lower. Much Better!
So now I have the tangential question of those ears. How to make them less globby?
I also have an even more tangential question. I downloaded the gears from gr5's video. The gears did not rotate because of squish.
I only printed a few millimeters of the gears before stopping, and this pic is looking at the bottom. Instead of leveling the plate higher for less squish, can i change the flow out of the nozzle that would print the gears better?
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What happens when you sink most of the model into the build plate, so only the offending top parts are visible and printed?
Great minds think alike! I had that same thought before. The results are nearly the same:
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Hello Again!
I've been trying to print this: Low-Poly Pikachu
90% of it comes out great. The top, never finishes.
I can't quite explain what is happening. It's almost as if the back part of the head gets printed "higher" and the nozzle knocks into it. It's weird. Every thing else comes out great on super fine setting in cura. So is this some kind of nozzle adjustment issue, or is this just becuase of something in the STL? This happens weather the gcode comes from Cura, or from Simplify3D.
Thoughts on what to try?
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You could also have filament sticking to the nozzle. Wipe the nozzle while it's hot to clean off any excess filament. You could also try applying a small amount of silicone oil to the nozzle periodically to keep filament from sticking.
It's not the priming extrusion, that stays where it should be. BUT, it could very well be coming from the nozzle. When this current print is done, I will wipe that off. Thanks for the suggestion!
Regarding the "warp", I think you mean the first layer is lifting off the bed. To fix that, the bed has to be really really clean, or you can try using a thin layer of glue stick spread out with a damp cloth. Try cleaning the bed again, and don't touch it with your bare fingers.
Maybe warp was the wrong way to describe it. It's not with the first layer, but the upper layers. If you see that previous picture, you can see most of the diagnol lines, but then they stop for a section at the bottom. That section is the part that is "higher" then the others. Here is a side picture:
See how it peeks up like a mountain? It should be flat.
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I leveled the bed, and lowered the temps. Looking much better! Thanks korneel and rowiac!
What causes those blops of filament? That has happened on a few other prints. Also, what would make the middle warp? It should be flat.
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I have recently taken apart my feeder, and cleaned it, fixed both of my side fans to work, and gave my printbed a light rubbing of rubbing alcohol. I also leveled the printbed. Since doing all things all of my prints have been unrecognizable malformed messes. When I started watching them, they seem to be off from the get-go, first layer is not good.
Settings for this:
- 65 degree printbed
- 215 degree extruder
- print speed is 35 mm/s
- filament is a new spool of colorFABB economy
I've tried doing a few temperature variations without any improvement. I haven't tried glue on the bed, but in the year that I've owned the UM2+, I've previously had great prints without that.
Any suggestions of other things to try?
- 65 degree printbed
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My two side fans are not going on at all. When I issue M106 S200 command, the middle one goes on but not the two side ones. I want to remove the bottom cover, as specified in this issue... but I can't unscrew the two nuts. Very tiny.
Any suggestions as to where I could get a tool loosen the nuts? It is made worse by the fact that I have very little room at the bottom
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Maybe... But why does it make a loud noise? I am never near it when it does it, so maybe I should stay in the room while it prints to see what is happening...
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Houston, we may have a problem. Since doing that, I have noticed the prints are more stringy, there have been big blobs of filament in the print, and also, every so often I hear a loud clacking sound. I assume this is related to when I took off the feeder? Did I not do something right when putting it back, or is this a new issue?
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Take the feeder apart and give it a good cleaning. Here's a guide on how to disassemble it:
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/64-disassembly-of-the-ultimaker-2-plus-feeder
Obviously you don't have to take it completely apart to get to the feeder wheel.
WOW! That was the most hands-on I've ever been with my Ultimaker. I ended up taking it completely off. Let me tell you, there was some pretty colored pixie dust in there. Even though there were some "OMG! WHERE DID THAT SCREW GO!?" moments, overall it was a good learning experience. And most of all, it now works! Huzzah!
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My UM2+ has been printing things all weekend but stopped yestrerday. It will retract fine, but will not extrude. I did the atomic method, and not much came out. I was also able to manually push filament in, and it would extrude fine. I took the nozzle off, and there was some filament stuck in there. I removed it, levled and it started working again. It started printing but then stopped again. When it extrudes, you can hear the motor turning but no filament comes out. I know it is heating up becuase I took a spare piece of filament and pressed it to the outside of the nozzle.
Any suggestions of things to try? Is this a bigger issue then a clogged tube?
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This picture shows two issues I'm having. if you look at the lower right side, the top of that area is rough. I've noticed that a lot lately, the top layer of things are not smooth at all. I've also noticed it sometimes on the outside as well, but mostly at the top layer.
The other issue is that, in the center of that picture, there is this slight "ridge". And it goes halfway up the model, about an inch or so. I've never seen that before until printing this.
Does anyone have any suggestions for things to try to correct this issues? I thought I read something about increasing the "z-hop". I tried to do that on a previous print and that didn't help that one. I am printing this on an Ultimaker 2+, with Faberdashery filament. I use Simplify3D to slice. The model I'm using is this large cat. (Everyone should print it out because it's super cute)
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It's also called combing line if it is a travel move without retraction (you will find a number of posts with that topic here).
There are two possibilities to avoid it: combing along walls and/or z-hop.
Are you slicing with S3D or with Cura?
Simplify3D
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I had a simple print and I noticed afterwards that there was a slight "gouge" or scrape at the top. I looked over the print in Simplify3D, and the line corresponded to a "travel move". I assume the travel move is a movement with no filament flowing? Why is it happening, and how do I stop it from happening?
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I really like the one from Creatr
http://www.ulti.creatr.it/en/2x/index.html
The first part though is the cost of the kit. The second part is the assembly. I would love to see examples of someone who bought the mod, and hear how the installation of it went.
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Here is the process I use for sequential printing of the same part in Simplify3D:
- I load one STL model, and create one process for it
- I then duplicate the model and process
- For each model I have a seperate process
- When I select preparing to print, I select all the processes, Sequential Printing, and set the height to something huge, like 5000 mm
Is that the right way? Seems like there should be a simpler way....
- I load one STL model, and create one process for it
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For those who havn't seen it, there is this massive list of places to buy filament:
The ones I've seem to hear the most chatter about are colorFabb, Faberdashery, and MatterHackers. Any other ones to recommend or ones to stay away from (either because of service or compatibility)?
I'm about to order my first non-Ultimaker filament from Faberdashery. I've heard good things about them, and I really like that you can buy it in quantities less than a full spool. Do any other companies offer that? (especially ones with cheaper shipping rates to the US
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Currently, it is set to 3 minutes.
Why would that setting only affect larger prints and not smaller ones?
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I have a UM2+ running Tinkergnome. I use Cura 15.04 to generate the gcode. I drag the gcode to OctoPrint and it prints.
Some things I print, start fine, but the temperature drops and then nothing comes out after that. But others print out without issue. The process for everything is the same.
What in my process would alter the temp like that? Is there something I can look for in the gcode?
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danilius and StephanK that you both so much! I think I have OctoPrint mostly doing what it should. I do have a problem with a print, but I don't think it is OctoPrint related, so I'm going to make another post for that.
In the midst of all this, I even upgraded to Tinkergnome. Love the extra info in the front! And you've got me thinking about Simplify3D again. I seem to hear a lot of people like it for slicing... we'll see....
But again, many many thanks!
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Okay! So we're cooking now....sorta....
I was using Cura 2.1.2 for slicing, but I installed Cura 15.04.6. At first I didn't see the gcode tab, but I went into settings and changed from "Ulticode" to "RepRap (Marlin/Sprinter)". Is that the right gcode setting? I vaguely remember hearing something to that effect before.
So I made that change, generated the gcode from Cura 15.04.6, removed all the gcode stuff from OctoPrint. I drag the gcode file to OctoPrint and it seems to be working!
Here are my questions at this point:
- Is there any way to do that gcode stuff with the new version of Cura?
- Why does M117 never change the LCD? It always says "printing from USB"
- Also, it should extrude some filament in the beginning before it starts printing, and it never does. What is a good way to troubleshoot the gcode?
- Is there any way to do that gcode stuff with the new version of Cura?
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UM2+ for Sale - East Coast USA
in Buying or selling your UltiMaker
Posted · Edited by pluggedIN
clarified, will not ship, and last use
Selling UM2+
Has not been used in at least 2 years. Will need to be leveled
I will not ship, but I will travel up to 300 miles from Wilmington, Delaware to exchange
Selling for $1200 or best offer