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Everything posted by nerdwarrior

  1. It's been years and I honestly don't remember. I'm guessing I went with either gr5 or neotko's tip. To freeze you can take some canned air and spray it while inverted (comes out as refrigerant). For heating, I wouldn't recommend fire, but you could maybe try hot water or attaching the block/heater/thermistor and heating it up. Hope that helps!
  2. Hello everyone! It's been another year, I've finally managed to get the designs finalized and printed, the fans ordered, and everything installed (among a slew of other printer upgrades). A problem I've run into is that, somehow, I blew the blowers within maybe 5 minutes of running them... I've tested the power coming out of the board, and that is working fine. It will drive any other fan. So the problem must be with the blowers. My theory right now is that the fans act as inductors when they're turned off, which causes a back current. What bothers me is that, to th
  3. Thank you for the information, nilrog! Unfortunately, what I want to try is beyond what is offered in the webtool and requires me going in to change some gcode definitions. This I've done, but I'm just afraid that I've missed something in the configuration.h file. When you say download the tool, do you mean there is a way to generate the code (not compiled) that I can then modify? If so, that would be perfect, because I would be certain I haven't missed any configuration for my UMO+!
  4. I've printed one out and assembled it, but haven't gotten around to actually installing it, so I can't speak with certainty whether I have the same wobble or not. From what I can tell, however, my feeder seems solid and not wobbling. Some things that I did to mitigate wobble from the start include printing everything with a horizontal expansion of +0.1mm and printing both the "Hands" and "Joke Fix Test" (above) files, which gave me three parts to use. I then tested to see which one gave the best fit. Hope that helps!
  5. Been kind of busy, haven't gotten around to actually finishing this yet. All the parts are here, though, and I'll probably have some time later this month after exams are over. Sorry for how long this is taking 😕 I'm pretty much a noob when it comes to firmware, but based on what I can see, the Amedee fork of Marlin is UMO+-ready, correct? The only thing I see that needs changing is the motherboard from 7 ("Ultimaker") to 72 ("Ultimaker V2.X"). Everything else seems fine for an unmodded UMO+ (thermal, motion, etc). Can someone please back me up on this? Thank you in ad
  6. Nice! It horrifies my inner laziness, though... Let me know how it goes! I used Autodesk CFD (student subscription).
  7. A legitimate concern, @geert_2. I'm hoping that for PLA this won't be too much of an issue, and if necessary, I can turn down the blowers slightly while leaving the axial fans on high. Does that sound alright, or do you think the cooling would be too irregular?
  8. Thanks, @neotko, for clearing that up! Since I evidently cannot get full airflow because the fan is not available in 24V, I tried extending the fan duct a bit to better direct the air. This seems to work, and I'll probably be ordering parts soon. Stay tuned!
  9. I'm not worried about the FET, and I totally agree that the air should be focused right below the nozzle. The problem is, I'm not quite sure how to go about fixing it, as the duct was originally designed with ~1.6 CFM in mind, before I realized that the fans would only be capable of running at ~0.8 CFM. Do you think narrowing the duct output would increase the pressure too much? The fans have to be in series because the BFB03512HHA-AF00's are only offered in a 12V, not 24V, package. Ideally, the fans should be wired in parallel so as to not have to worry about equally dropping volt
  10. I agree, the blower configuration for the first one is better. However, it was done with a CFM slightly higher than the fans would be able to supply if wired in series. The idea with the axial fan on the side is that when the print head is moving fast, the blower won't provide enough cooling time (it moves away), so the airflow of the axial fan moves directly over the freshly printed part.
  11. Update and slight issue: I've conducted some CFD's with various shroud setups, and the results are both encouraging and disappointing. Just the blower, mounted 20 degrees from vertical: Blower and axial, blower 20 degrees from vertical and axial mounted straight behind (so that bottom of the fan colinear with bottom line): Here's the problem: I initially forgot that by wiring the blowers in series, each would receive less power and thus have less airflow. So, when I compensated for that in the second CFD, you can see that the air from t
  12. Hi everyone, Proper part cooling is essential for nice prints, especially with PLA. I, like a lot of people, thought it would be nice to improve this, so I set out to do some research. What I've essentially found are two main solutions: blowers, which have the benefit of higher static pressure and focused airflow, and axial fans, which have the benefit of high airflow. The former allows for rapid cooling of the plastic coming straight out of the nozzle, which is useful for small features, while the latter allows for even cooling over a large area for larger/faster prints. In o
  13. Hello everyone, I was recently looking for replacement XY shafts on Robotdigg, and it wasn't available. Yesterday, they got back to me to tell me that they now stock the shafts! They are 6mm OD, 267 mm long. For anyone looking for them, here's the link: https://www.robotdigg.com/product/1047 . Cheers! Note: I'm not being paid by Robotdigg to say any of this; it's just a great place to get cheap parts!
  14. Thank you so much @Torgeir! A metal plate does lift up and close the opening if I close the terminals, but it is missing the plate at the back. The wires also seem fine, but I will go ahead and replace the terminal in case anything happens in the future. The links are highly appreciated! As for the pt100, I am currently printing something, so I'll wait until it's done and check on that as well. Once again, thank you so much for your help!
  15. Add-on: My bed was consistently reading around 6 degrees higher than the hotend at room temp, which I never really paid attention to, but after properly redoing all connections, they are back at the same temperature. However, I'm still concerned about both the fluctuating resistance and the terminal.
  16. Hello Ultimaker community, It's been a while since I've had to post any hardware issues, but my heated bed has started acting up recently. Either the pt100 returns a temperature of 55 degrees (even at room temp.) and thus stops heating the bed, causing it to cool down (and prints just pop right off), or I get the MAXTEMP BED error. I've gone through to check the connections multiple times, and I do not see any issue. However, one thing did catch my eye, and it threw me off a bit: As you can see, the third screw terminal is missing the copper plate (or whatever it is) at the back (all of
  17. Impressive post, @neotko. Makes me rethink some things...... Also, this is kind of off-topic, but about the ptfe in the E3D V6: since it only goes down into the heat sink, with the fan blowing on it at all times, shouldn't it have no impact whatsoever (except maybe a smoother bore)? I don't really see why it would need replacing (or am I missing something here?).
  18. Also, regarding @meduza's very valid point of not being able to use 2.85mm filament again: If you do it the way I described above, you would (theoretically) be able to swap between printheads (E3D V6 one by Rai here), assuming you having something like the Twisterblocks that allow for calibration-free printhead changes.
  19. I've thought a lot about conversions before, and I think it's easiest to grab a 1.75 mm 24V E3D V6 (with bowden add-on) and a new extruder. There are a lot of options for extruders out there, but here's what I would recommend: Very expensive: Bondtech QR (1.75 mm) (remember to select "Ultimaker 1 & 2" for "cable" and pick up a bowden adapter) Medium range: E3D Titan (remember to tick "1.75mm bowden adapter) Cheap: @neotko's DIY extruder using bondtech drive gears (UMO/UMO+ or UM2+/UM3 version) All three are extremely high-performance extruders, and honestly, I would probably go for @n
  20. Amazing design, as always, @neotko! Great writeup as well! I saw this and it got me thinking: for people with the UMO+ or UMO that want to change to the big bondtech gears, it will probably be easy to print an adapter and use the rest of this design. And nope, I haven't used up my 3 kg of filament yet, so I haven't upgraded by extruder to your design With this one out as well, I can't wait!
  21. Good ideas from @nallath. And if you haven't already (I mean, this thread was created two months ago), get it in a windowless room off the first floor with a door that has a lock on it. Then go as @nallath said. That being said, there are plenty of (good) printers lying around in my school, and they just sit in normal rooms. And no one has stolen anything. Yet.
  22. Congrats to the people who won the cosplay design contest! Have fun with your new Ultimakers! **Secretly jealous**
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