nerdwarrior

Black Friday isn't good enough. This is what we need.

Just dreaming about a 2.5k UM3

I know Zortrax is having a discount, so I would be ashamed if Ultimaker, a company who's been around much longer, doesn't......

Does anyone have any guesses as to whether Ultimaker will have a sale this Black Friday? Last year they didn't, but iGo3D did have a discount.

It'll be interesting to see someone make a hybrid printer out of the UMO+, UM2+, and UM3. That would look AWESOME.

They get scrapped, sold to employees or re-used in other prototypes / proof of concepts. I feel like if you put them up for grabs, the community would go wild.

I'm just wondering, what happens to all of Ultimaker's prototypes? Parts or entire printers alike, where do they go?

Ultimaker 2 even :)I have a couple of early feeder prototypes that I got ages ago that were printed on 2s as far as I know. I also have prototypes of all metal hotends with about 10 combinations of coatings and materials on the parts (that, just like they have said, didn't work very well). I also saw an early version of the cartridge system that looked very different and was SLS printed IIRC. I've seen piles of extruded PVA, test jigs/rigs for testing extrusion forces etc. And I've only seen a small part of the dev process. It's been a long road... That's kind of true for any project. After all, Thomas Edison himself had to try 1000 times before perfecting the lightbulb. It's no wonder Ultimaker is as popular as it is.

I believe Ultimaker actually used their own Ultimaker 2+'s to prototype parts for their UM3! And it's kind of hard to beat Ultimaker when it comes to making awesome stuff......

No offense to windows (I love windows) but most people don't use windows phones......

Colorfabb HT is pretty good for clear stuff. They even have an entire post teaching you how to print clear HT.

Hello there, I recently bought a role of nGen clear, but I have not tried XT or the PLA/PHA before. I'm guessing that PLA/PHA would be the better filament of the two. From my experiences, nGen isn't as easy to print with as they claim, and PLA/PHA is probably the better choice when it comes to printability. My first print with the nGen warped like crazy on the 80 degree bed, so over since then I've been using 85 degrees with glue, which works like a charm. I've also read that the PLA/PHA is actually stronger than the nGen, so the main difference in mechanical properties is probably the elevated glass transition temperature (85 degrees). As for the color, I found that the lower the temperature, the clearer the filament is. At 220 and 230 degrees, prints have a nice sheen while being transparent, while at 240 degrees, prints get white, frosty, and sparkly, more like a frosted window. For print quality, 220 and 230 degrees provide a nice, flat surface, while 240 degrees almost makes it look like it's underextruding because of the sparkle (but it actually isn't). Overhangs and bridges work miraculously. I hope that helps! nerdwarrior

It has a pcb in the spool so the sensor (on the printer) can pick up the data from the spool and therefore tell what kind of filament is loaded and what the optimal settings are. Most brands don't incorporate this into their spools because most printers don't have the sensor, and it would just add extra cost. Possibly printers a few years from now will all be able to detect filament type, and having self-identifying spools will be normal, but that's the future well, PCB is perhaps a big word.. it's really an RFID tag.. once the specs get released, you can even create your own with your phone Oops, my bad! Lost the word for it:P

It has a pcb in the spool so the sensor (on the printer) can pick up the data from the spool and therefore tell what kind of filament is loaded and what the optimal settings are. Most brands don't incorporate this into their spools because most printers don't have the sensor, and it would just add extra cost. Possibly printers a few years from now will all be able to detect filament type, and having self-identifying spools will be normal, but that's the future

2+ years! Wow. And true I wish that the newer ultimakers have a tilted screen. I have used (but not owned) UM2+'s before, and I actually find the angle of the UMO+'s Ulticontroller much easier to use. The flat screen just seems awkward.

More nozzle sizes, greater reliability, more compact printhead, flexible filament printcores, etc. There's always room to grow

I wrote the spec for what data is stored inside the core EEPROM. It can save material consumed & time heated (Time spent above (60? Not sure what number we ended up using). The data I got was that a printcore should survive 6 hours of printing a day for 2 years. It could be that this number changed, as that is rather old info (year old or so?) 6 hours every day for 2 whole years? That's 4380 hours of printing! Impressive! And 2 years later there will probably already be an Ultimaker 5+ or something, so a lot of people would've already moved on by then......

I don't know if it records the hours, but since you will (probably) have one AA core in all the time and swap out the other one depending on the print job, that AA is probably going to suffer more. If you want to balance it out just swap the two AA's once in a while, so the one that was originally in the printhead all the time will become the secondary one. Sorry if that was unclear. Basically I mean that the one AA that is used in both the AA BB and AA AA combinations will suffer, so make the second AA take on its role.

How well does E3D Scaffold work? It is PVA, but they say that it's specially formulated to adhere to various materials, and I've heard a lot of great things about it.

Oh no, Colorfabb! Those awesome colors won't work :( Will it work with nGen, then?

we learn something new every day. perhaps it's time to create a table for what in what but also which combos work and which combos won't,.. PLA and PVA works but I know PLA-PHA and PVA does not.. Wait PLA-PHA doesn't work with PVA? Why? It should work, right? I mean, PHA isn't soluble in water.

The nozzle itself will probably last about as long as your average brass nozzle, which is pretty long unless you constantly feed it carbon fiber. The downside of the print cores is that you can't change out individual nozzles, but that's for the sake of increased reliability and less hassle.

Considering most of the users will keep the same two cores plugged most of the time, the calibration process is not a daily thing. In case you needed to go from AA+AA to AA+BB, I would strongly recommend to order the prints so you only need to recalibrate once. And about using a one nozzle multi extrusion approach, there's one big limitation: temperature. Both materials need to have very similar temperatures. If it wasn't for that, it would definitely be the best option in my opinion. So it's like changing filament; finish one before moving on

Okay thanks! I was originally thinking about going with some clear nGen (which would look awesome), but I might try it with pla now that I know it works!

Pla? I'm surprised! Twice my pla has softened within the feeder due to the heat from the motor, causing it to flatten against the hobbed drive and jam the feeder. And that was through all the wood. Which brand's pla did you use?