JRDM
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Posts posted by JRDM
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How do you change the abort retraction? I've changed my hot end and it retracts way too much for the new hot end.
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29 minutes ago, joatrash said:
I don't know if this is what was meant, but every time a print is completed, the printer has to be powered off, then on again before a new print is started. If not, when you start a new print, as the printer runs thought the prep-cycle where it "resets" the print head location and raises the bed, the print head stop switch does not register when the head reaches the back, and the motor keeps going, making the belt "jump" over gears and the entire machine shakes until you turn it off. (I personally don't have a film clip of it and I'm a little hesitant to make one for fear of causing any damage. I've just learned to power the thing off between prints... most of the time!)
Sounds pretty serious. I have that happen sometimes but that's when a cross rod slips in the carriage or there's some other obstruction.
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Did you make any progress? FETs tend to have built in flyback diodes to protect themselves to some degree but I suppose maybe four different fans interacting on the same line might damage each other anyway. Ideally flyback diodes are best put on the load. The other possibility is the fan has the incorrect label and the electronics were meant for a lower voltage. That shouldn't happen but it's not impossible.
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20 hours ago, fbrc8-erin said:
I've got some on order, but I don't have an arrival date yet. I can follow up on it.
OK, thanks.
It seems like it was out of stock in your shop for at least a couple months. I still have the original glass, I just want spares, and extras for hot swaps & additional surface treatments.
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I have had a Duet Maestro running on my UM2 for a few weeks now, though only used it on and off. I'm still looking for a less-clumsy way of fine tuning the Z offset for nozzle or bed plate swaps but otherwise, it works pretty nicely. The motor noise is pretty much gone. If you want to use PT100 sensors, you do need the board. I have dual extrusion with PT100 on each nozzle, but my upgraded bed & enclosure heater use thermistors.
I haven't traced through whether the little front OLED screen is compatible. I don't have any illusion of making the front panel work as nicely as it did on Tinkergnome, I'd at least like it to display some status info instead of being an empty black recess. I'm still trying to make macros that bring back some of the slick functionality UM firmware and Tinkergnome had in the AVR firmwares, but that will come in time.
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I want a couple spare glass plates for my UM2 Go, official sources seem to be dried up already. I'd like to keep using the stock clips unless there's a better alternative.
The stock clips need 4mm glass to work right, and 4mm thick glass is a little hard to come by.
Thanks.
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TL Smoothers were made for TI drivers. They have a voltage and current sense timing profile that makes the motor run rougher than it should. TL Smoother does help slightly with the Allegro 49xx drivers too, but it wasn’t intentional. Ultimaker main boards for UM2 & UM2+ use the Allegro drivers. It’s worth noting that these mainboards use a less than optimal decay mode setting, which do show as a slight moiré on some curves. Allegro’s decay mode moiré is not nearly as bad as the ‘salmon skin’ TI drivers would show though.
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2 hours ago, ultiarjan said:
It's almost as simple, you just move the bed up using the webinterface for leveling (I just use a piece of paper like like I always did on the ultimaker), write down the offset number, and type it into the "config-override.g". Specially as you really don't have to do it often I can't be bothered writing a macro for it.
I like to do it on every nozzle change or when I swap bed plates, either can alter the Z offset. I might do one or the other maybe once a week.
I consider writing down the number and editing a file to be to be a step back in quality of user interaction compared to turning a dial and clicking.
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6 minutes ago, tinkergnome said:
RepRap firmware is very open and flexible, runs on modern ARM processors, but is - of course - not polished for an Ultimaker out of the box.
Though it's very easy to add (so called) macros for all kinds of stuff like this. As soon as one starts to add those specific functionality for the particular printer it can become even more convenient then the stock firmware.
It's not limited to (pre-) compiled things like Marlin, one can expand it on its own. Well someone has to do it - and to share it - of course...
For example: i use it on a different printer, added a BLTouch for mesh bed compensation and a filament sensor - makes life so easy...
Such things are not possible with Marlin without recompiling.
Yeah don't get me wrong, I love RRF but figuring out how to set it up a certain way can be a chore.
I think maybe I've figured out how to set it up it from the Duet Web Control.
Maestro does offer the ability to use RRF style 12864 LCDs, I really haven't dug into what that offers. I'm not sure if the UM2 front panel is even compatible, I haven't dug into whether a compatible chip is being used there. -
22 hours ago, zerspaner_gerd said:
You can also save it with M500 (simply said), so it will be overwritten in "config-override.g".
Thus, there is no need to change the "config.g" file manually
Edit:
But sometimes I just change the value in "config-override.g", goes faster.
It still sound a lot more involved and clumsier than the simple "Adjust Z Height" routine in the Tinkergnome menu where I can just turn the dial until the nozzle touches the middle of the plate and clicking saves the zero offset. Is there something I'm missing that can allow similar functionality in Duet?
Same with the level adjustment routine.
I want to get away from Marlin, Tinker Marlin etc but I'm not seeing a way forward on these particular issues.
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14 hours ago, zerspaner_gerd said:
In config.g then the following sentence must be present:
M208 X227 Y230 Z210.982 S0X Y Z you need to adapt to your printer
Does that mean you need to check and adjust the Z value in config.g whenever you change nozzles, for example?
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6 hours ago, TMicke said:
Why Maestro instead of wifi or ethernet?
And thank you for the links to the railcore (is that right, is it called a railcore?) It looks very interesting. Do you have one, and can you tell me a little more about it then, and compared to a UM2.
It’s very satisfying and fun to build your own printer. My first one was a Velleman 8400 that came in pieces, bought it the day before christmas. Made me feel like a child again ?
I have a Maestro to spare, it is still waiting for a machine to be put into. It's also less expensive. Unless you want WiFi connectivity, I don't think the full Duet2 board can do anything more for a UM2 than the Maestro could. I think Maestro might be a little quieter too, because it uses a newer generation of driver.
Yes, that first machine I linked is called a Railcore. I don't own one, I'm acquainted with the two guys that designed it. It looks like a pretty good design but I don't think I can describe it any better than the site can.
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6 hours ago, TMicke said:
Waow! And just a heads up, my wife will not like you ? (for making me want to buy more stuff)
If I wouldn't want to mess with my almost brand new UM2+, what printer would you recommend to use for an Duet3D board, and I'm thinking if there is a cheaper one than the UM2
Railcore II ( https://www.kraegar.com/railcoreii)
or
E3D Toolchanger ( https://e3d-online.com/blog/2018/08/20/e3d-tool-changer-and-motion-system-beta-30-incoming/ ).
Both machines demonstrate the power of the Duet controller platform.
I've been meaning to convert one of my UM2s to Duet Maestro.
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I'm thinking of changing the controller board for a different type and I was thinking about making a little board to keep the original connectors, switch to reuse your existing power supply and pass through the signal & power to the new controller.
I've mocked up the idea in a 2D CAD.
I didn't find anything that does this yet. Is there something available that already does this or should I just design my own?
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10 hours ago, Timothy_Egoroff said:
hi, do you know how to bypass the temperature limiter?
I don't have a UM3 but I assume that would be in the 8 bit controller board (as opposed to the second board, a 32 bit one, that's also on the UM3), so reflashing it with a higher temperature setting might be possible. It's possible UM3 is more different than I realize though.
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On 9/8/2018 at 7:43 PM, brictone said:
I'm running into this same thing, except, I'm wondering if I can use the e3d therm on the UM2 mobo? Sounds like it's not possible without some adapter due to the way the electronics are designed.
I believe this is correct. It would be simpler to just use a PT100 sensor. You should be able to use the one that came with the UM unless you damaged it. The Ultimainboard's thermal sensor input is special amplifier circuitry designed just for PT100 type sensors.
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On 9/18/2018 at 11:44 AM, gr5 said:
To print peek and ultem you really need the bed to get up to 160C. This is the bigger issue for converting. You also need the air temp around 80C which is bad for the steppers so you need to keep the steppers cool somehow (enclose them away from the hot air and add air or water cooling perhaps). The core's themselves probably don't really need any modification. I've heard that the 350C limit is more for the head itself than for the cores. Something in the head gets too hot if you have two cores at 350C I suspect. c-coat may indeed help on this last aspect (keep the heat in the brass block where it belongs).
Ultem needs a higher bed temp than that, but PEEK is fine at 140˚C bed temp. Oddly, Ultem doesn't need as high of a nozzle temperature as PEEK. I've printed both below 350˚C, as low as 330˚C, but that was mostly smaller sections, suggesting slower speeds will work until you unlock the temperature limiter.
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Why are you wiring the fans in series? I don't think you're at risk of blowing out the fan control FET, assuming that's what you're worried about. I can look up the part but I believe it's a 1.5A FET and you're probably only using 0.4A to 0.5A of that at full blast with four 30mm fans.
Anyway, the slope of the cooling air is pretty shallow and that still makes the cooling area pretty broad. And you might be surprised how much it helps to cool the plastic just as it comes out the nozzle.
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Yes.
I think the first one is the best. You want to cool the part as close to the nozzle as possible while trying to avoid cooling the nozzle itself. All the other cooling blowing elsewhere doesn't help you.
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Hi, I'm not seeing the images, is your image host down?
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The bed heater doesn't do that? OK that didn't seem clear but I hadn't visited the error web page in a while either.
I forgot to mention that I have upgraded it a bit, I do have two nozzle heaters going. -
Where do I go to request a an alteration? Is there any chance the heater error can at least tell me which heater or sensor it might be? I'm running three heaters and a fighting clue would be appreciated for an intermittent problem.
I'm using Tinker V17.10.1 on a genuine Ultimaker 2.
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I forgot to update with my solution.
I ended up going with a hood made for a Jennyprinter which looks decent and it's getting me by. It was just barely short enough to fit under my desk's task light. The windows needed to be reglued though, they popped out easily.
I had to laser cut my own door as no one had door kits available at the time and the Jennyprinter door was made only for their front panel.
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I don't think TFM will do those temperatures for extended periods of time, and it's still PTFE-based so you will likely get offgassing.
People tend to do hot end swaps for anything above 250˚C. I've got a drop-in hot end swap design but I haven't tried to make one work with 2.85mm filament yet.
Tinker firmware - introduction
in Firmware
Posted · Edited by JRDM
I've seen that too, on later firmwares. I think the extruder position reset g code doesn't get accepted, I haven't figured out when or why this happens. I just turned off the retract command in my ending g code. I'd rather a tiny bit of ooze over having to refeed the filament.