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  1. Hello Gr5 thanks for reacting. My english is not so well. What do you mean with a food fit? I am afraid when I use boiling water method the section will become oval and an exact total length of the neck is not easy to define. Also I wonder why the bottom print is worse than the top print. To honest I am suprised that printing the top went so well without support.
  2. Dear Forum I have som problems with my Ultimaker Original. After fixing a blocked nozzle a blocked tube and broken filament I was finally able to print a prototype of a plastic bass clarinet neck. However it is far form perfect yet. The first problem is that the tube has to be round and it has become oval (see first photo). Also on the bottom of the print (the second photo is taken upside down) there is some stringing. I hoped that the print would be airtight. I selected 100% fill in. But it isn't airtight. Specification: Material: PLA
  3. It appears not to be the total story. When I tested the new wiring I did not guide the new wires in parallel with the other wires to the print head. In fact the distance between the new cable and the other was quite large. When I made a nice cable bundle again. The problem was back. I also found that when I put my hands around the printer head the problem was decreased. So it is a EMC problem. So the next thing I will do is to use shielded wire.
  4. I think I fixed the problem. I replaced the wiring between the head and the 1.5.7 board. I used just twisted wire and soldered it on the 1.5.7 board. I saw now only 2 or 3 degrees variation during printing. Thanks to everyone who spend time on solving this problem. I appreciate that very much.
  5. I found copper paste and used it for the thermocouple. When I heat up smoke comes from it. Maybe I used to much. It did not change anything. Another thing: When i switch the UMO on. the disply says the temperature is 3 degrees for a few seconds report an MIN temp error and then says 22 degrees which seems normal. I think I change the wires between the 1.5.7 board and the thermocouple board.
  6. During heating up the temperature is stable and rising quite lineair without jumping up and down. And as soon as the fans on the extruder turn on the temperature becomes unstable.
  7. The next thing i did is manually edit the parameters on the ultimaker controller choosing control/temperature/PID-P etc. Now its time to try the difference. The heating up is better now. But as soon as printing starts the temperature jumps up and down. Torgeir, its a good idea to improve the thermal connection. That will be the next thing to do.
  8. The next thing i did is manually edit the parameters on the ultimaker controller choosing control/temperature/PID-P etc. Now its time to try the difference.
  9. OK I installed printrun from this site: http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/ And the entered the line M303 E0 S200 C8 in the textbox on the right and pressed send. Then the following results appeared after some minutes: >>> M303 E0 S200 C8 SENDING:M303 E0 S200 C8 PID Autotune start bias: 76 d: 76 min: 197.63 max: 206.82 bias: 73 d: 73 min: 196.99 max: 202.76 bias: 68 d: 68 min: 197.72 max: 202.61 Ku: 35.46 Tu: 32.66 Classic PID Kp: 21.28 Ki: 1.30 Kd: 86.86 bias: 67 d: 67 min: 197.60 max: 202.36 Ku: 35.84 Tu: 34.19 Classic PID Kp: 21.50 Ki: 1.26 Kd: 9
  10. OK I found that running the following code executes that PID calibration: M303 E0 S200 C8 So I made a GCODE file with that content and put it on the SD card. Then I ran it with print from SD. But nothing happened. I suppose that is the wrong way. But by the way calibration is not a bad idea. What i see is that during heating the temperature is rising quit lineair and quick to 250 then decreases to 248 and then slowly increases to 252 and then printing starts.
  11. hello neotko, I don't know PID calibration. How does it work and what does it do?
  12. I also measured the power supply voltage on the fan on the bottom of the ultimaker. It starts at 19.20 V. During heating up it drops to 19.00 V. And during printing it is sometimes 18.97. There is no AC ripple on the power. the picture above is what the temperature looks like. The temperature should me 252 but fluctuates around 240. The samples are taken about each second.
  13. Hello Torgeir, I disconnected the heater wires from the 1.5.7 board and connected the wires to an ohmmeter. The measured resistance is 20.7 Ohms. When I move the head manually the variation less than 0.2 Ohms and it is random. I can also switch the ultimaker on and move the head by using the display control. The result is the same.
  14. hello Torgeir Thanks for your reaction. I wil do the measurement you suggest. The temperature is too low. When printing ABS the filament does not fasten to the previous layers. Even when I increase the temperature from 230 to 252. Kind regards Johan
  15. Dear forum, I have a Ultimaker Original that has some temperature problems When I start printing it heats the head to the desired temperature and that look quite good. I can see the temperatre increase in steps of 1 or 2 degrees Celsius until the startinng temperature is reached. But as soon as the printing head starts to move the temperature becomes unstable. Most of the time the temperature drops with 20 degrees and more and then sometimes increases 30 and so on. Also when the ventilation start I see effects on the temperature. I already tried to stablize the power supply by adding a sma
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