bastienb

Héhéhé, avec une motivation comme celle-ci tu vas forcément y arriver ? Sinon quand je serais dans le coin je pourrais jeter un coup d’œil aussi si tu le souhaites !

Je comprends... C'est toujours plus facile quand on a pas l'objet de la tentation sous les yeux ! Et tu as du temps pour les imprimantes 3D du coup ?

Tu as vendu la tienne pour cause d'accident ? Ah ben ça fait du filament oui si tu achètes avec les sous de la vente XD

Hello @francoisl de mon côté ce sera avec plaisir et ça pourra être l'occasion de faire une petite balade en moto ?

@Guillaume777 @plastoc3D A priori, l'un ou l'autre me conviendrait (je suis en moto) mais pour l'instant je ne connais pas du tout mes dates de chantier de rénovation d'appartement ! Tout est en cours de signature et d'organisation donc je pourrais vous confirmer cela qu'en Juin (la semaine proposée tombe pile sur celle du déménagement par exemple).

Pas mal ! Rien de mieux que le fait maison ?

Je m'en suis servi. Je conseille l'impression au minimum en ABS parce que le poids et le temps provoque la rupture systématique du support qui s'accroche à l'UM2+... A chaque fois je passe 3 mois et ça se fissure et se casse (en PLA). Et ça coulisse trop avec du 2.2kg, la bobine se déroule toute seule. Il faut un peu de résistance pour ces bobines parce que le filament à tendance à vraiment aimer se dérouler !

Le filament glisse pas, comme tu as un entraînement des deux côtés. Tu peux augmenter la vitesse d'extrusion par exemple. Personnellement c'était pour plus de fiabilité... Le genre en développement ! Sûrement celui de Mass Portal qui arrive courant 2018, mais fait main.

@plastoc3D En tous cas, avec Thingiverse, tu peux toujours déposer en Français pur que rien du tout (et puis à la rigueur tu peux très bien ponctuer ta description par "sorry about the French description but I do not speak English very well and I do not want this to prevent me sharing my ideas!". Et voilà, les gens se débrouilleront bien mieux que s'ils n'avaient rien ? A mon avis, si tu es sur un logiciel libre, tu peux mettre les deux ! Merci ? Cela prend plein de place effectivement, je me prépare un petit atelier exprès dans une chambre à part ^^

Tu n'as pas eu de problèmes de rigidité ? J'ai dû fixer le tout sur une plaque de bois brut de 2.5cm d'épaisseur pour que le châssis ne se torde pas. Tu cherches un site en français pour pouvoir écrire en français ? Parce que sur thingiverse tu peux faire ta partie en français, un tiret et la partie en anglais traduite google translate ? j'en ai vu qui faisait ça avec d'autre langues bon courage alors ! c'est pas évident de créer l'intelligence d'un machin comme ça ^^ J'ai UM2+, UM2+ extended (les deux en bondtech/3D Solex/tinkergnome), Sigma R17 et une Prusa I3 MK3 en approche.

Aaaaaah la P802N ? ma première ! Tu as réussi à bien l'optimiser ? Tu as un blog ou une page où tu montres ton projet ? Ça à l'air trop cool !

Personnellement j'aimerai bien un peu de contact humain ! Toujours via un ordinateur, surtout quand on fabrique des trucs, je trouve ça moins sympa. Cool ! Tu as quoi comme bécane(s) ?

Yes ! Commencer en MP et puis suivant le nombre de personnes ici, on pourra se faire un groupe de makers Nantais !

Salut tout le monde ! Est-ce qu'il y aurait par hasard des gens de Nantes ici ? Des mordus d'impression 3D (et d'UMs !) qui seraient partant pour organiser des rencontres et partager techniques et autres ? Parce que le net c'est bien, mais en vrai c'est mieux . Bonne journée à vous

This "warped glass" is really a topic... As I wrote, the many cycles hot/cold I have done on my plates warped them (about 6 months before being unusable). And I need to print parts on the whole available printing surface (like hundreds of them) so the flatness is very important ( the tolerance is around first layer height for me). I decided to change my two glassplates for the official UM2 ones. I received 3 plates altogether : 1 was OK 1 was bent (~1mm from one side to the other) 1 was curved ~(1mm from the top to the bottom of the curve, this one was meant to replace the previous one) For the moment, the workaround I found is to level the bed so that all the areas of the first layer are either good or either squished. The feeder does not like it but I can print usable parts... Maybe it could be interesting to work together finding someone that could manufacture borosilicate glass plate in Europe with good (garanteed) flatness ? I personally only know a regular glass manufacturer, but it does not handle the temp change with the fridge...

Hello @mendells ! So, what about this new glass ? Would you have the contact for your reseller ? I also have troubles with my glassplates... Either it's already warped when I buy it (UM ones) or it gets warped through time (printing / freezer / printing / freezer twice a day for months). I better understand why Josef Prusa got rid of the glass !

Hello everyone! I have good news and bad news... The good news are the printer was fully repaired and they told me what they fixed in order to achieve that: - the Y belts were changed along with the associated sliding block - the glassplate were changed - a little mechanical slack on the X/Y axis About the bad news... Well TNT deliverer signed in my place and put the package I don't know where. Unfortunately I was not able to find it when I came back from work so I do think someone took it. Basically I won't be able to show you the printer works! I collected proofs that I was at work when the deliverer said I received the package and I am waiting Makershop to deal with it.

Yeah... on the one hand I have to solve this because I need to print and I accumulated delay, but on the other hand that would have been a hell of experience solving it by ourselves! Anyway, I hope they will find what the problem is and tell me about it. I am a bit stressed about what they are going to say... I hope 1) they will repeat it and 2) it is not a stupid thing I simply did not see... But I learnt a lot so it would have been a good thing anyway. See you in several weeks then! Thanks again

Hello @Torgeir! I have a bad and a good news. The bad news is that I did what you told me and nothing changed... The good news is that Makershop is taking my printer tomorrow to solve it at their workshop! It was a bit hard to obtain this but here it is. I cross my fingers too... Thanks again for your help

@tinkergnome I made sure the axis are not sliding! But nothing changed... thanks anyway **Edit -> X & Y axis are brand new from Makershop @Torgeir First of all, thank you for your big answer and for the time you spent trying to help me. - I changed the nozzles on both the printer at the same time yes. For 1.75mm ones. Now I changed them to 3mm from 3DSolex. Yes the problem seems to appeared immediatly on the UM2+ext and it started also on the UM2+ (but not as worse, I can still produce things). - About the knurled wheel, I made pictures with my camera. As I do not know precisely how to judge if it is damaged or not, I preferd to take very close pics (for me it is in good shape, homogeneously sharp). You can see it at the end of this answer. At the beginning I was thinking "just buy a new one to be sure" but the trouble is... I cannot find this part anywhere! So I hope it is not that... - I definitely doubt the feeder too, that's why I was wondering if upgrading to the bondtech one would make a difference? But the problem is, if the feeder was the problem, why only at certain position on the plate? - I figured this out during this resolution thread, I tend to use the 0.12mm paper and I tune the plate so the paper is not moving anymore (but for this current test I used your technique and you can see the result on the pic). The first layer is not transparent though... The glass bed is brand new and I spray a thin layer of adhesive as I usually do - Ok this one interests me a lot. I did have the "printer setting will be override" once or twice. I upgraded the printer a few days ago, wondering if it would reset all the settings but maybe this could be tried! Averything is basically stock for the settings so I won't lost anything... Thanks again for your answers and here is the pic!

I'll do it the parameters check this evening. What is "sliding 8mm axis"? For the 6mm rods, I checked them (X/Y calibration + check if these are straight) and it seems ok... but I ordered new ones in case I was not able to see the problem. For the loose belts, I checked and tensioned everything but it is hard for me to me to say "they are not loose". I mean, it is pretty subjective and I less and less believe in my judgement on this one... thanks for you answer!

The problems I have with puting the GCODE at fault are these: - How could the same GCODE be printed differently between the two UM2+? - How could CURA change the print property along X/Y? (print KO top left, OK bottom righ)

Yeah sry... I re-made the test with the 5 parts. I used different cura parameters to try to understand the problem. Here is a result with 0.4mm for the line width. You can see the circles are OK but the squares are KO (the opposite as usual):

I have ordered a new stock buildplate, maybe this will help...

I contacted the Makershop Support, they told me to: - use another nozzle/filament - check the belts tension - check the axes alignement (using this) - flash the printer's firmware Here is the result :