bastienb

Ok so I have just got the new nozzles from 3DSolex. It is very impressive how the flow of plastic has improved. You can still see the problem though... Even if it is less important. Oh and I also changed the bowden tube by a better one from 3DSolex too. Here is the result:

Hey guys! I am still waiting for the 3dSolex nozzle...

@neotko. I really liked the spring explanation, it talked a lot to me. Btw, for now I will have to wait for the nozzles to arrive. Then I will clean/tune/install (both of my printers). And I will do it carefully and using all the topic's information. Also I will take pictures (some relevant ones, and some generic ones in case). Hoping very hard it is a "crap nozzle issue". Thanks again guys and see you at the end of the week!

Ok so I guess I will just have to wait for the nozzle to arrive! What about upgrading the feeder (bondtech)? Would it help?

Ok I got the point! So do you advise me to get the 3dsolex block and nozzle? (matchless) Or do I just by the regular 3dsolex nozzle?

Because I trusted the shop... I did want to pay more than 10€ for a no-name nozzle (Makershop) so I asked my local shop. It sold me a 5€ no-name one but which has been used by them. So I trusted it =). But I do think it comes from AE... Btw, I searched a bit about nozzles to be able to answer properly to your questions and I was wondering if buying this nozzle would be a good idea -> NOZZLE Alternatively, I was wondering if this block combined with this nozzle would help me printing with more reliability... As I have to make lots of parts. Honestly, I am not comfortable with my current nozzles, and even if the problem is elsewhere, I would be able to know it is not the nozzle! Next thing I doubt about is the glassplate, and again, I find the 35€ non-official neither tracable one from Makershop a bit expensive...

Thanks neotko. I will stay available through the we not to miss you if you need some more testing. I can give you all pics/videos you need. (have a nice evening )

Ok, the second one is making the same thing now, not as worse but still, there are gaps getween the infill and the outline! I am so desperate... I spend more than 5000€ for these two and after a year of PLA printing it's like I just have to dump them and buy new ones! The fun part is that you are 2 very experimented guys, I am a mechanical engineer, the shop that sold me the things is involved and still, it's not solvable... I really do not know what to do! (Oh, I am very grateful about you helping me btw, thanks again).

** for the test file I speeded the very last layers of the print to 150% because I had to switch the printers off, that's why it looks hollow

Picture of the day! I re-launched the calibration file with the new PLA and a new 0.4 nozzle (so I leveled the bed). I also tried again to print the part I need to be printed: Better on the test file, but still not good on the normal file...

All I can say is that I used this brand for a year (I printed like 6km of filament) and I never had any problem with them. I will caliper the one I am going to use this afternoon if it can help you.

OK, this afternoon I will open a new roll (ordered last week) and re-print the part! It would be PLA white RepRap EmotionTech 3mm.

Looks like it is coming from an un-tuned chinese prusa i3... too bad it cost me like 2500€ more ahahah The filament is RepRap EmotionTech, PLA green, 3mm (good quality I guess?). Stored in plastic bag with silicate and inside a piece of furniture with an electric (peltier) air dehumidifier. I bought it 6 month ago max. I used the "Pla 210 190 F100 Test5 Ulti Arjan", directly put on the sd card. The fans are working OK yes, I mean they are OFF the first layer and ON after. And the one to regulate de nozzle temp is working OK.

The daily update! Tightening the feeder was a good idea:

I do not see anything I would have missed, so I will put it back to the middle position and put a picture of the grinding marks Thanks

Ok I will check that. Btw, the middle position is far too tight for me, on both printers. Is it possible I missed smg when mounting it back? Or is it just normal?

The problem is, I cleaned everything, changed the PTFE (with the proper distance to avoid compression), I have a new 2.85mm/0.4mm nozzle and this keeps happening...

So the feeder wheel is in good condition for you? No need for change? About the tension, I lightened it a bit because I had to force so as to insert my filament. Is there a rule to tune this properly? I guess it is a rule of thumbs where you need marks but no skipping or grinding... I will try to have the bites twice as marked as on the pic and to print the thing again! Thanks for the words about the motors, basically you are saying they are heavy duty piece of hardware and that we are far from heavy use (I re-tag @ultiarjan because I think it did not work on your message).

I think you are going to laugh a bit... I printed the test file yesterday night! And I was wondering if the feeder wheel could be damaged? It seemed it was not but as the printer ran with a 1.75mm nozzle, smg must have been harmed in the process, musn't it? For me it is fine regarding the pictures, but I prefer to let you be the judge: Oh and you know what? I noticed the same problem started to occur on my other printer... (very sligthly) Since the moment I knew about the nozzle I was wondering if it could have harmed the extrusion motors? As it put a lot more effort to push the filament? Thanks =)

I searched a bit, I think for UM2 it is tempered glass but borosilicate (Pyrex) would be much better (resistant to thermal shock, so good to be put on the frigde) except it is more expensive. But that's not the topic... I will do the test as soon as I get home and meanwhile I will try to get a new X axis (I found the Y ones on makershop but no X) and change them both.

Do you think it would be a good idea to continue playing with the slicer's parameters? I will receive proper 0.4mm nozzles soon to continue with them, as it emphasize the issue it would be easier to see... Also I will try to get a glass plate made by a glass worker (not borosilicate but it would be a cheap testing solution to see if there is a plate problem!).

The print looks exactly the same...

OK, thank you! I will try with 40% more wall thickness (0.7 -> 1) and 50% more infill overlap percentage (10% -> 15%). See you in several hours

This is a stock 0.6mm nozzle. I never used it and I tried to do the print with it to be sure it was the nozzle. I used the default parameters from cura "fast print" using 0.6mm and the skirt. The problem remains!

And my other UM2+ has been running for 2 weeks with a 1.75mm nozzle... I hope it did not harm it...