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CarloK

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Everything posted by CarloK

  1. Something along those lines, yes. I wouldn't recommend changing the partition sizes, as then the script will try to change sizes instead of re-formatting. The script uses sfdisk for partitioning and formats using mkfs.ext4 (boot partition) and mkfs.f2fs (all other partitions).
  2. @gr5 I'm no longer working for Ultimaker, so this is mostly from memory: In 5.3.0 the partition sizes changed. The recovery image searches for partitions of the types ext4 and FSFS and tries to change their sizes. When no such partition types are found, it reformats the internal memory. Problem here is that a damaged Flash memory still might be recognized as being the expected partition type and/or size, so no reformatting is done. In the S5 we fixed this by always reformatting, instead of trying to preserve data. Too bad, this fix never made it into a new UM3 release. ;-( A work around is to have the UM3's Flash memory to be configured in another way than the ext4 / FSFS partitions, which the recovery script is looking for. For example, erase the internal memory, or use an older UM3 release with a different setup. Apparently the 4.3.3 release you used is old enough to trigger the reformat procedure when using the v5.3.0 recovery installer.
  3. @gr5 The UM3 always used the Olimex Lime2 board The S5 printer received the same board, but in 2020 new regulations became effective and the Olimex board did not comply to this, neither was Olimex prepared to make it compatible to those regulations. That's why the S5 printer got a silent upgrade with a new processor SOM. Read here more about the differences between the S5 R1 and S5 R2. The S3 printer was always produced with the same new SOM as in the S5 R2.
  4. I don't remember any supply chain issues, do you refer to the world wide supply chain issues created by Covid? That was long after the UM3 production ended. Olimex always provided the Linux board for the UM3 and the S5 mark I. Since Ultimaker bought large quantities of the board, Olimaker created a special variation of the original Lime2 board with different USB connectors, another type of memory chip (NAND flash instead of NOR) and some cost reductions by removing components not used in the UM3 (that's how the HDMI connector got removed). The connector for the serial port are the 3 bare pins next to the ethernet connector.
  5. @thanks1976 Thanks for providing the log files. Too bad the log files are incomplete, it looks like the printer did reset and the log file from just before the reset was lost. Is it possible the printer did reset from a power interruption or a short dip in the mains power? You might try adding a cheap UPS power supply. A good brand like APC can be bought from %76.
  6. @gr5 To set a few things straight: The UM2+C pcb was slightly modified from the S3, i.e. the relay has long gone and several other improvements like replacing the stepper drivers by more quiet TMC2130 chips. The UM2+C has an optional filter, it is just a simple on/off mechanism based on buildplate and nozzle temperatures. When we developed it, it was not to be named an AirManager as it doesn't attempt to control the build volume temperature (for this the AirManager in the S5 has it's own processor). On release the Marketing department decided to name it AirManager anyway 🙄 In the log files I see the printer rebooting a few times, but there is no clue as to why it stopped. A temperature of 700C is reported by the temperature sensors when a wire is loose or broken. The sensor for the build volume is in the top of the housing, at the rear. You only see it when you know where to look, see attached photo. Check the connector here, you might have disturbed something here when using the heat gun. The temperature sensor is marked PT100. The other component is a reed relay, when you put a magnet there, then it should show in the display that an Air Manager is present (I think the text is only updated when you open the screen). This is a nice test to check whether the cable is connected correctly to the main board. The UM2+C can't control the build volume temperature, i.e. the temperature inside the casing, but as a safety measure we do monitor the temperature. I don't know if the 700C is the root of your problems, but it's an easy thing to check for loose connections.
  7. @thanks1976 The original poster in this thread was asked to post all log files, she now only posted one of the lesser interesting files. So, for you, the same question to share all log files. We can examine those and hopefully find a clue as to why your system fails.
  8. I checked some official Ultimaker resellers, and with all of them the fan was €17 to €20. So, I would say a Gold Star to all Official Ultimaker resellers and a downgrade to Amazon. 😉
  9. @henu which firmware version is installed on your printer? In v8.1.0 there was a fix for which I had high hopes to fix these intermittent probing errors: This feedback is very important to us, because when your printer includes this fix then we know we'll have to look for other solutions.
  10. Footprint probing only works in combination with Active Leveling, i.e. the 'mode' setting as enabled earlier in this thread. So, the configuration file will then look like this: { "inherit": "/usr/share/griffin/griffin/machines/9066.json", "properties": { "machine_type_name": "Ultimaker 3", "bed_level_probing": { "use_footprint_probing": true, // Whether or not to just probe the footprint of the object "probe_selection_method": "mode" } } } Note that when you enable Active Leveling (i.e. the 'mode' setting), then in the printer's menu you can't change the probing frequency anymore (daily/weekly/etc will have no effect anymore).
  11. This is not true. Inside the feeder housing is everything needed for the filament transport, the only external component is the stepper motor which is similar in all current Ultimaker printers. The UM3 firmware is old and from before the CC-core release, but I don't expect problems in that aspect, the printer will accept the printcore. What will be a problem are the material definitions; these consist of two parts: 1) A file on the printer with compatibility settings, temperature (for material change and probing) and a bunch of settings for the Material Station. 2) Slicing parameters in Cura The printer files from 1) are fixable, but the major material tweaks are in the Cura slicing from 2) which I have not enough info for to fix. Not tested, but the simplest tweak would be to have the UM3 identify as an S3 printer. Then the printer will accept all S3 compatible materials and PrintCores and in Cura you can slice correctly. On the printer you have to modify just 1 line in the configuration file: In /usr/share/griffin/machines/9066.json change "Ultimaker 3" to "Ultimaker S3" and reboot the printer (for how-to see this thread) The S3 has a slightly larger build volume, so in Cura modify the S3 printer dimensions by copying all settings from the UM3 printer (Cura menu Settings/Printer/Manage printers and then 'Machine Settings')
  12. Hi @maht, I'm no longer working with UltiMaker but did have a look at your log files. Only 2 log files are present, which is weird. In the oldest log file I see the printer lost network connection, but this is already present at the start of this log so I can't check if an error was logged causing this. The most recent log file shows the printer rebooting and having a good network connection. I can't help you since the provided log files lack the moment in time when things went wrong. My suspicion though is that the WiFi signal is not strong enough. You could add a wireless router that connects to the printer's ethernet port as an alternative, or use a powerline modem that connects to the ethernet port (easier to setup than a wireless router). I'd also like the UM3 firmware to be published as open source, but given that it shares the codebase with the recent printer models I don't see this happen.
  13. @gr5 The front fan is a different type from the side fans but the electronics circuit is identical, so I suspect the side fans to have similar noise problems (electrical and audible) as the front fan. It's just that these problems might be more notable on some batches than on others. For the front fan we know there was one batch with more audible noise than earlier batches, but results will vary per individual printer.
  14. @gr5 I'm sorry to say I'm no long part of the UM organization. 😪 I tried to get attention for this ticket but I wasn't part of any of the teams working on the S-line of printers (I was mr. UM2+ Connect). I don't know the current status for the ticket, perhaps @robinmdh can give an update?
  15. I posted all the info you need... Two posts up I posted a link to the firmware releases page. For example, you find there 6.5.4 to be the last stable release in the 6.x versions for the R1 hardware variant: I posted: Stable 7.0.3: https://software.ultimaker.com/releases/firmware/9051/stable/7.0.3/um-update-7.0.3-R1.swu Replace the two occurences of 7.0.3 by 6.5.4 and you have your download link Using the release notes page you can then distill all your desired download versions. I'm just too lazy to do all the manual work since I don't know who wants which version.
  16. @Hiabst I'm a bit at a loss for what you are trying to achieve. I assume you want to create NFC labels for non-ultimaker spools? This is not officially supported from Ultimaker. Here in the thread smart people figured out how to do it, but there are many small details where it can fail and is difficult to debug. Creating custom NFC-tags is a great use case for printers with a Material Station, but that's not supported on the UM3 printer and I don't see large benefits for the UM3. Why is it so important to your company? The version from May 2019 would be 5.2.11, a very stable release. Most recent release is 5.3.0 from October 2021 and has some small improvements and fixes. Worth to do the upgrade, but not essential. Your log files show the text: This indicates a problem with the NFC hardware. It's difficult to break the electronics, double check that the connector at the bottom of the UM3 is seated correctly. First ensure you can get the printer to work with original Ultimaker NFC tags again before trying new steps.
  17. Yes, you can buy the S-line feeder and leave the flow sensor electronics attached. In fact, the UM2+C was prepared to support this sensor, but it was removed for cost reasons (and replaced by a prostetic). The connector is present on the mainboard and even partial software support is there, the flow error is detected but the warning text is not implemented to show on the screen and neither can be continued. Ordering codes: 203732 S5 feeder, left, rev.1 225720 Feeder assembly left (1), rev.2, fine knurl Both revisions are almost equal, except that the rev.2 has a changed knurl pattern to prevent micro cracks in PVA material. It's very unlikely you'll print with PVA as its common use is a water solluble support material. Buy the revision that's cheapest with your supplier.
  18. Something is wrong. Have you tried to execute a 'factory reset'?
  19. I'm glad to hear your situation has improved. Since your background is in RF, might you discover new insights in the future, then please share your findings for us to learn from.
  20. @mrender The re-print button is a bit of a controversial feature. On the UM3 it was possible to start a reprint after a failure, but this was removed in later releases since you often have to perform other actions first to fix the failure. Reprinting would then have to be located in a new menu item and there you want to be able to select from your last 5+ prints. With many of our customers sharing a printer this creates privacy issues and then things get complicated. The advised way of working is that you use the Digital Factory in the cloud. Here you can queue your print jobs, being it copies of the same job or different jobs. When the finished object is removed from the build plate, the next queued job will start.
  21. A degradation in Wifi quality is not something we've heard a lot for the UM3. There have, of course, been many complaints for bad signal quality, but then this was from the start. Reports for signal degradation are low. Speaking from the numbers I suspect something changed in your environment. Perhaps a neighbour installed extra wifi devices which are now all in the same frequency channels? You can check this with a phone app.
  22. Great that you could confirm it's the SD card which is damaged! Newer card types and higher capacities are being released continuously and I don't know where the UM2's limit is. Perhaps a 128Gb card formatted with FAT32 will work (though most likely not at the 128Gb capacity as FAT32 was designed for 32Gb maximum). This is where Ultimaker's official 32Gb maximum stems from (and we just didn't care to test larger cards when those became available). Practically, 4Gb is large enough for any 3D printjob you would ever create. I would suggest to buy whatever you can get that's between the 4Gb and 32Gb.
  23. Sounds like a physical problem with the SD card being recognized. Before blaming the printer, double check your SD card. See this thread where the SD card had physical damage and was missing a piece of the frame where the card detection circuit probes for presence. I suggest you try with another SD card first. A replacement Ulticontroller costs indeed $90 and is relative easy to replace. When you are confident with a soldering iron, then you could first try to resolder the solder pads marked in the picture below. The SD card connector looks like to be the Hirose DM1AA-SF-PEJ, available for about $5.
  24. Wifi on the UM3 is getting old for current standards. So, when other devices in the vicinity do work, then this might be because those devices are using improved technology which wasn't available at the design time of the UM3. The UM3 wifi wasn't bad, it does have a real antenna, i.e. a physical 25cm wire where some cost reduced devices only use a tiny chip antenna. Things you can try: - Long shot, but perhaps the internal antenna in the UM3 is disconnected? It's a tiny but relative strong connector, so I never heard of problems here, but easy to check. See picture. - Configure your access point to only use 2.4GHz. The 5GHz band has many advantages but is not supported by the UM3. - Disable ip.v6 in your access point If this doesn't work, then you'll have to change the connection from your printer to the network. Here are some suggestions: - Move your wifi access point closer to the printer. - Add an extra wifi access point, closer to the printer. This can be an older access point model since the printer only uses 2.4GHz and is relative slow. Perhaps you have an absolete access point lying around for this? - Forget about the printer's internal wifi and add an external wifi to the printer. Perhaps you have an old access point lying around and connect this to the printer by ethernet cable? I mean, immediately next or behind the printer, so only 50cm of ethernet cable. - Add a powerline modem to create an ethernet connection in the vicinity of your printer without ugly cables. Costs about €50
  25. You could ask the creator of the bUltimaker tool to add those settings to his tool. Otherwise, you'll have to compile the firmware yourself. It's not difficult when you have some software experience as it is a standard Arduino environment. The setting is in the file Marlin/Configuration.h I'm pointing to the repository with the bUltimaker fork as that seems to have the most features. #ifdef ULTIMAKER_HBK #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {XY_STEPS,XY_STEPS,200.0,760*1.1} // default steps per unit for Ultimaker #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {500, 500, 30, 25} // (mm/sec) #else #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {XY_STEPS,XY_STEPS,200.0*8/3,760*1.1} // default steps per unit for Ultimaker #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {500, 500, 5, 25} // (mm/sec) #endif Step values are for X, Y, Z & E respectively HBK is to be defined for printers with the 'Ultimaker heated bed kit' only. When you have an Original+, then it already includes the heated bed and this define should _not_ be set.
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