CarloK

This means the printer has problems reading the SD card. I don't have an Ender3Pro printer, but here are some generic problems every SD-card printer can encounter: SD card is corrupt. When you remove the SD-card from your computer you always have to use the 'eject' function, otherwise the computer might not have saved all file data and the administration on the SD card becomes corrupt. When you insert this SD card in your Windows computer, is it then reported as potentially damaged? SD cards larger than 32Gb are not (yet) supported by all printers. Firmware bug. FAT32 has been around for a long time, so this is not very likely Electronics design problem where interference from other devices introduces SD card reading errors. When I had to guess, then it's most likely option 1 or 4. Option 1 is easy to fix by choosing another SD-card. With option 4 you are out of luck.

The idea of Active Leveling in the S-line printers is that no manual adjustments should be required. As @Dim3nsioneer suggests, it seems like you have a poor configured material profile. Tweaking the Z-axis is simple to implement in the printer software, but it's fixing a symptom rather than the real problem. It will change the Z-dimensions of your print and you'll have to repeat it for every print job with this material.

Thanks for the explanation of what all settings do, but for Ultimaker to move this feature out of the experimental section they'd like to hear how good it is working. Do you have to adapt the default settings often? And when you change them, what's your motivation for deviating?

You already tried replacing a lot of parts. A temperature resistance between the PT100 and the heater block could be an explanation for your problems, but since you already replaced the PT100 I'd assume you there are no loose parts there. Can you use a thermometer to confirm the temperature? This would rule out all electrical causes. Other possible culprits: - Feeder problems. Not enough spring tensions, or worn out feeder wheels (takes printing less than 1 spool of abrasive materials, e.g. glass fill, but also brass infill like materials) - Clogged nozzle - Printing with 0.25mm nozzle but slicing for 0.4mm - Bad filament. I've cheap PLA here that's unprintable or some materials degrade over time - Bowden tubes can wear out and have to much friction. - Coupler degradation. You checked, but a smaller inner diameter might not be obvious to see.

I like the feature too, but with mixed emotions. It can reduce printing time a lot, but I always have to compare to the default settings since it can increase the printing time too. Since you use it often, what do you think of the default settings for the Adaptive Layers? For others to learn, how do you use this feature? Are you tweaking settings? If yes, how do you do this?

The guide doesn't mention it, but I would only make modifications to my printer with the power off. With power off, the motors are disengaged and you can move all parts freely around. Even the bed can be moved up and down when you place your hand(s) on the rear of the bed, close to the Z-spindle.

I'm no expert in the UM2+, but search this forum for PTFE coupler. It is the white plastic (teflon) part inside the print head which degrades at temperatures higher than 230C. The higher the temperature the faster. When it degrades the inner diameter becomes smaller and it will become more difficult for the filament to get through. These are cheap replacement parts, just order a few. Quality differs so you might browse this forum for opinions. Both the Ultimaker and 3Dsolex parts were recommended.

@Torgeir Check your mail

Absolutely sure for the S3 and S5 that this is one of the possible causes, next to the obvious damaged files on the USB. The release notes mention this fixed in 5.8.1. If it happens in newer versions than I'd like to hear about this. This will only happen in the first layer of printing, but when you have multiple objects and sliced for "one object at a time", this may be late in the print process. Like I wrote, sometimes an Active Leveling probe fails and this is not always properly detected. Later, during printing the printer will follow the contours of the build plate and adjusts the Z-height according to the measured heights. When the print head moves into the grid area belonging to the failed probe, then the 'line error' pops up.

I don't know if a reseller has these parts, but you can ask. Perhaps you are lucky and they have a damaged print core where you can get spare parts from. Expect minimum EUR20 for the PT100 and EUR15 for the heater cartridge. Counting labour costs, professional users will just replace the whole print core and keep the old one for spare parts. Since you consider repairing the print core I've the feeling you don't count labour costs. Then you can go for a cheaper UM2 compatible components from a third party supplier. Even with the lower cable quality you will save money over time.

Most likely the error was in the Active Leveling where one of the failing probes was not detected. The release notes mention this bug fixed in 5.8.1. What firmware version are you on? During printing, when the print head comes close to the failed probe point, then the line error pops up. Often it will be the same failing probe location because of the physics in your specific printer. The Active Leveling sensor is a very sensitive device; on a different day with other temperature, different humidity, or your phone not next to the printer, everything might suddenly work again. When the line error happens again, try to locate your object to a different location on the build plate.

What material are you printing with? Some materials require a high temperature of 90C+, this is close to the maximum a printer can reach at room temperatures. When your printer is located in a colder environment or with moving air, then this might be your problem. Simple solution is to cover your printer under a large carton box.

Not sure why you want to order a PT100, those are passive components and almost indestructible. These are PT100-B types and when you ensure the dimensions are the same you can order them everywhere for less than the original Ultimaker replacement parts. Then you will have to cut the wires to the desired length yourself. Same goes for the heater element. Most likely this is the exact same component as used in the UM2. Note that the UM2+ uses a 35W heater, this won't work. All printcores use the same 25W heater element (AA, BB, CC cores and all diameters). A last note on the heater and PT100 from Ultimaker is that the wires on these components are extra flexible. This because of the movements in the Printcore. Cheaper replacement components will be less flexible and wires can break.

@sbfdfmdk One thing I notice from the log files is that the bed is at a very low level, i.e. the thumbscrews are very tight. This might explain the leveling problems as the process is a tight balance between springs in the bed and springs in the print head. Try raising your bed by about 6mm. The official distance for the build plate springs is approximately 14mm.

How were the results when you tried with another SD card? A long shot, but what type is the SD card you use? We only support standard SD and SDHC cards, the newer card types SDXC and SDUC are not supported. i.e. most cards up to 32Gb are fine, anything larger than 32Gb will fail.

I'm one of the software engineers that worked on the UM2 so we should be able to figure this out. It's very weird and the only thing I can think of is that it is similar to the bug we fixed in firmware v3.3.0 I know you updated the firmware using Cura, but let's double check. Can you go to the maintenance menu and verify the firmware version? It should report as: Mar 15 2018 13:03:13 Vers:_3.3.0

Great to hear the link to the recovery image helped you out. I updated the post to link to the latest 5.2.16 image.

Ultimaker firmware for the UM2.1 Extended can be found here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/UM2.1-Firmware/tree/UM2.1_JarJarExtended Double check the heater cartridge to not have a short circuit, otherwise you will break the switch on the control board. Changing the HEAT1 output to the HEAT2 output is possible by changing the pin numbers in the file pins.h

I can't help with the Pro Bundle, that was developed by another team. Looking at the diversity of the problems I suggest to contact your reseller. Also, as already suggested, check your firmware version and report it here. Upgrade to the latest v5.8.2

Thanks for posting the video. Like I said, it's a weird bug. Weird, because I checked and the pause command is only activated from 2 situations: 1) The user activating the menu option or 2) An M0 or M1 gcode command. Neither of those situations are present... Is it always the same file that's failing?

@wfin73 You are hijacking a topic that has nothing to do with the original question. Please start a new topic for unrelated questions. Short answer: a factory reset should take not much longer than a standard system boot, i.e. about 5 minutes. Power cycle your machine when it takes 20 minutes. Worst case you have to do a new factory reset.

What printer model do you have? How old is your printer? Was it always working correct and now starts failing? What are you doing when it fails? When you are printing, is this with special materials that require higher temperatures? More info will get you better and quicker answers.

Nice and elegant solution to use that more powerful adapter. Just a note: each pin on the connector is rated up to 10A each. You are not allowed to double this capacity by operating in parallel. Safety regulations say that you also have to be within maximum ratings when 1 or more pins break down. So, you are not allowed to combine the two pins in parallel as 1 x 20A What you can do is 2 x 10A. That is, on your controller board you design the electronics in such a way that the bed is powered from 1 connector pin and the other circuits from the second pin.

The article you link to came from this part of the Ultimaker website, there you also find a document named 'End of Life Policy'. When I read that document, then there will be 3 more years of support and spare parts for 3 years after the date the product is announced as 'End of offering'. For the UMO+, UM2+ and UM3 this announcement has not been made yet so you can expect minimal 3 more years of support. When that announcement will be made isn't clear. Given that those printers have a successor model released you might expect it soonish, but I've also seen Ultimaker to continue production of a model for as long as customers were buying them.

The help text on the website needs some improvement. First of all, there is most likely no hardware problem. We have two cpu boards communicating with each other, and when there is no communication for 30 minutes, then there follows a safety shut down. What I assume happened here is, you powered up the machine and then you were going to update the firmware. This took some time and the 30 minutes time limit was exceeded. Am I right? If not, can you then explain what you did when the error message appeared? For now, reboot the printer and install the latest firmware and you should be good to go.