Jump to content

DeathMachine

Dormant
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    116

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Posts posted by DeathMachine

    What Would You Like To See In An Ultimaker 3?

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted · Edited by Guest

    Read through all these posts.

    Lot of really great Ideas. Won't beat the duel horse into the ground.lol

    One of them I really liked, the camera but I want to add to that.

    Camera should be tied in with your slicer program and a filament jam sensor.

    Then if something goes wrong you can rewind to the bad spot and restart.

    Any of you great hackers want to take up the challenge?

    Above my skill level.

    Change filament in middle of print.

    ED

    Anyone heard of mitus filament .

    in Materials & profiles

    Posted

    Mitus Filament,

    Got a new spool of orange from Ebay $12!

    The Filament seem good, not brittle, took a chunch and bent it back and forth several times before it broke.

    It comes on the same spool that gismo geeks use.

    And the other thing I really like, the bag is a resealable one.

    It does have a strong smell when printing.

    ED

    Buying Used Ultimaker2

    in Buying or selling your UltiMaker

    Posted · Edited by Guest

    I'm actually selling my Ultimaker 2 with a couple rolls of used filament at various lengths. Probably 30-40 hours of print time. Asking $1600 shipped anywhere in USA.

     

    So not saying what you're asking price is wrong.

    Justing giving some history of this summer on used ultimakers.

    I got my UM2 with Olsson block upgrade Not installed or used. $1000. $50

    At my door in 3 days. So slamming!

    The sellers are a clearing house had 150 + listings of mostly medical stuff.

    Didn't even know how many hours were on it. 1 hour 19 minutes print time.

    And I believe it machine is so clean! Printing right out of the box!

    UM2 is on close out sale now , brand new with olsen block $1900 with wantary I do believe.

    There is one on ebay right now 5 bids 6 hours to go and it's at $1030. And it has the + upgrade but didn't list hours, 2 part rolls of pla.

    Make sure you show pics of manufacture label. on the bottom of machine.

    Lot of chinese clones out their.

    Good Luck

    ED

    Hey guys, nice to meet you

    in Coffee corner

    Posted

    Ha cool idea! I don't like Pokemon at all but I'll print some anyway to hide them outside :)

     

    I'm with you . I would really like an app on my phone that makes a dead zone for pokemon. almost been hit twice from people playing while driving. I do a lot of commuting with my bike.

    ED

    Mounting Feeder Overhead

    in Coffee corner

    Posted

    Yes! Close to what I was thinking.

    I have used one of these carts before, liked it but still think of some improvement could be done.

    https://www.schooloutfitters.com/catalog/product_info/pfam_id/PFAM46559/products_id/PRO60755?sc_cid=Bing_COP-TD5000&CAWELAID=320012570000034832

    Also think this would stop some other problems. Moisture, dust, ease of filament change.

    It's can be a pain in the Bum to change filament when you can't get to the back of the machine.

    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:954675

    Interested is seeing what others have done along these lines.

    Thanks Ed

    Ulticreatr 2X: Dual extrusion for Ultimaker 2 and Ultimaker 2+

    in Third party products & modifications

    Posted · Edited by Guest

     

    So how do you prevent oozing from the idling nozzle?

     

    We don't have such a big issue with oozing..we have a brief pause about 5s, the nozzle gets ready and then we print the wipe tower/skirt.

     

    Really enjoyed this thread, thanks everyone .

    I don't like the tower method I see the nozzle cross over the print to get the tower. could drop filament scraps on print.

    The purge walls makerbot uses i think works better than that.

    ED

    why was Ultimake's own duel extruder for U2 abandoned? and what is know about Ulticreatr duel extruder add-on ?

    in Third party products & modifications

    Posted

     

    So like to toss this into the mix. looks cool. anyone tried one yet?

    Ultimaker 2+UM2 3D Printer All-metal Quad Head Extruder 4 Nozzles Kraken Hotends

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultimaker-2-UM2-3D-Printer-All-metal-Quad-Head-Extruder-4-Nozzles-Kraken-Hotends-/262504324149?var=&hash=item3d1e7a1c35:m:mA20RSao3hkDn4m42pkdoUA

     

    I think there's a wide spread consensus dual extrusion without a lifting system or separate heads does not work..... don't think we need to waste a lot of time discussing a quad head without a lifting system .... apart from that you only have a connection for 2 heaters/extruders on an UM2 so you would need to get very creative on the electronics side...

    [/quote

    Doesn't work with UM's well you mean. I thought a discussion board was for asking questions.

    Ultimaker vs Older Makerbox Dual question

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted

    They don't curl due to cooler temps, they curl there because that is where the forces are strongest.  The upper layers are pulling horizontally inward - the longer the distance the stronger the force.  Particularly read #6 below.  With blue tape instead of glass you also have to clean the blue tape with alcohol to remove waxy surface.  The problem you talk about still happens to people who don't know about the tricks below.

    ===

    lifting corners, curling corners, part sticking to glass

    1) Make sure the glass is clean if you haven't cleaned it for a few weeks.  You want a very thin coat of PVA glue which is found in hairspray, glue stick, wood glue.  If you use glue stick or wood glue you need to dilute it with water - about 5 to 10 parts water to 1 part glue.  So for example if you use glue stick, apply only to the outer edge of your model outline then add a tablespoon of water and spread with a tissue such that you thin it so much you can't see it anymore.  wood glue is better.  hairspray doesn't need to be diluted.  When it dries it should be invisible.  This glue works well for most plastics.

    2) Heat the bed.  This helps the plastic fill in completely (no air pockets) so you have better contact with the glass.  For PLA any temp above 40C is safe.  I often print at 60C bed.

    3) heat the bed (didn't I already say that?).  Keeping the bottom layers above the glass temp of the material makes it so the bottom layers can flex a bit (very very tiny amount) and relieve the tension/stress.  For PLA 60C is better than 50C.  70C is even better but then you get other "warping" like issues at the corners where they move inward but if you are desperate it's worth it.  For ABS you want 110C (100C is good enough).

    4) rounded corners - having square corners puts all the lifting force on a tiny spot.  Rounding the corner spreads the force out more.  This is optional if you use brim.

    5) Brim - this is the most important of all.  Turn on the brim feature in cura and do 10 passes of brim.  This is awesome.

    6) Squish - make sure the bottom layer is squishing onto the glass with no gaps in the brim.  The first trace going down should be flat like a pancake, not rounded like string.  don't run the leveling procedure if it is off, just turn the 3 screws the same amount while it is printing the skirt or brim.  Counter clockwise from below gets the bed closer to the nozzle.  Don't panic, take a breath, think about which way to move the glass, think about how the screw works, then twist.  This may take 30 seconds but it's worth it to not rush it.  You can always restart the print.

     

    Abs and heated bed when using the makerbot rep2x i run the bed at 130

    ED

    why was Ultimake's own duel extruder for U2 abandoned? and what is know about Ulticreatr duel extruder add-on ?

    in Third party products & modifications

    Posted

    I heard Ulticreatr uses a brute force approach with tons of heating power and tons of cooling to reduce the typical issues,. Now idea how well that works and what the drawbacks are.

    The tool changer (my project) is a very well working solution with the extra benefit that it doesn't require any modifications to the standard print head. Single extrusion operation just remains the same. It will be available within this year in some way or other (best case would be  a complete upgrade kit).

     

    I saw that on youtube! very cool !

    Ultimaker vs Older Makerbox Dual question

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted

    I do print primarily in ABS.

    As for the closed chamber, I did upgraded my Makerbot-clone to a closed chamber and that didn't seem to help much.

    As for build volume, I wasn't talking about needing more than the UM2+, I just meant the UM2+ was a candidate because it's bigger than my current printer.

    --Donnie

     

    all most all beds lose heat at the edges. that will cause prints to curl .

    Ed

    Buying Used Ultimaker2

    in Buying or selling your UltiMaker

    Posted

    I have a lightly used UM2 that has been converted to 1.75 mm filament using the olsson block kit sold by GR8 here on the forum. I have the 3mm nozzle that came with the printer that you could use to convert it back if needed. I am looking to get $1700 and can ship anywhere in the continental US for that price. Shipping oversea's I would have to see what the cost would be. Open to offers so if you interested let me know.

    Thanks,

    Chad

     

    I would be interested in knowing more about your machine for sale. pic's? any filament going with it?

    Thanks Ed

×
×
  • Create New...