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  1. Here's a tutorial on how to change your S3D gcode to use G10 and G11 codes for retract and unretract, for which settings can be changed from the menu on your Ultimaker. However, it doesn't work if you want to retract during wipe movements. http://thrinter.com/using-firmware-retraction-with-simplify3d/
  2. Wow, this is just gorgeous! One feature in TinkerMarlin that I really like, is that it does not just show the flow percentage, but also the actual output in mm3/s. Might be worth adding that.
  3. That looks amazing! I love the icons in the top, really nice to have that information while you're working on other settings. I'm assuming this was just a simulation, but if it wasn't you should probably take a look at the PID values of your bed, that temperature oscillates way too much
  4. Thanks guys, that's reassuring. I was not looking forward to having to replace the board, this hobby is expensive enough as it is
  5. That looks very cool, and it seems to be very quick as well. Doesn't look like a setup you could run at home though, unfortunately.
  6. Hey, I will probably be replacing my feeder motor, so I screwed off the pcb cover to see what the connectors for the steppers look like. I noticed some brown spots on the pcb: Is this normal? My machine has been on for about 3900 h, and has printed about 2500 h.
  7. Hey, I just noticed that there are some red lights blinking on the electronics board of my printer. I never saw them before. The printer is running and appears to be working just fine, so I'm assuming this is normal and nothing to worry about. I just want to make sure I'm not ignoring a 'check engine light' or something similar. (After all, assumption is the mother of all fuck ups). Does anybody know?
  8. Today I unfortunately had another print that failed close to finishing, when somehow the filament got tangled on the spool and the feeder got stuck. The last bit that was printed was way underextruded, mostly strings and a few blobs here and there. I decided to use pronterface to print the remaining part, mostly because I was afraid that the Ultimaker start up sequence, where it raises the bed and then moves the print head to the front, would bump the print head into the print. I edited the gcode again, just starting at the beginning of the layer where it had stopped and adding a G92 to adjust the extrusion and a G0 to move the bed to the right height. I homed the head and bed, made sure some plastic was extruded and then I resumed the print in pronterface. It worked perfectly. No offset at all, the coordinates were spot on, just as they were. Apart from some blobs an the outside at the layer where I resumed, you can't even see that the print was interrupted, which makes me very happy This leaves my wondering how I don't have any issues with an offset now. I used to think that it might be caused by the homing procedure not being very precise, but now I'm not so sure anymore. Anybody have any clue? Here are some pictures: The 'scar' is visible about 5mm from the top.
  9. I bought my UM2 second hand from the local printing shop, so unfortunately I don't have the Ultimaker PLA. When I get new spools I will definitely test those too!
  10. TL;DR: I ran this test a couple times using blue (2x), black, white and gold. Here are some pictures. I tried this test for the first time yesterday, using Dark Blue PLA (I think they changed the name to Ultramarine Blue). I was quite happy with the result. Everything looks fine up to 8 mm³/s, at 9 there's some slight underextrusion and even more so at 10. Today I used Traffic Black PLA, and I decided to run the test again, with quite a different outcome. I had expected different colours to have different results, but I was a bit surprised by the extent. Near the last lines of the 7 mm³/s section some underextrusion started to show. At 8 the underextrusion became clearly visible, and at 9 and 10 the print was no longer recognizable. This peaked my curiosity so I decided to test the other 2 colours I had laying around: Signal White PLA and Pearl Gold PLA. Signal White was similar to Traffic Black. It printed perfectly up to 7 mm³/s, showed underextrusion at 8 (though not as bad), and was just strings from 9 upwards. The Pearl Gold did a little better, printing fine up to 8 mm³/s. Halfway through 9 it started to show underextrusion, and from that point on layer adhesion was much worse. The text was still readable though, even at 10 mm³/s. It seems Pearl Gold doesn't stretch as easily as the other colors. Since I was surprised at how big the difference is, I decided to run the test again using Dark Blue. The results are almost exactly the same as the first time, down to the layer where underextrusion starts to occur, and how bad it is. I am quite impressed by that. On another note, this test shows the effect of ringing really nicely. If you hold it against the light, you can see the letter s being repeated a dozen times or so due to vibrations of the print head. As the speed goes up, the spacing between the letters increases. I added a picture, unfortunately it's difficult to capture the effect on more than 1 section. All my filaments are MakerPoint brand, and were printed at 230° C. I use an Ultimaker 2 with an Olsson block, Robert's feeder upgrade and the CPv9 fan shroud by mnis.
  11. I didn't want to leave my printer idle any longer, so I wrote a script to adjust all the Y values in the gcode. Worked like a charm Unfortunately there's also a small offset in the x-direction that I couldn't see before, but I can't really be bothered to stop the print again. However, if anyone knows a solution to this problem (without adjusting every value), or why it even occurs in the first place, I'd still like to hear it.
  12. Hey everybody, Today I learned the hard way that launching cura 2.1.2 whilst connected to your printer, will reboot the printer. Unfortunately I had a 16h print running, which had almost finished, and it was interrupted. I am now trying to save my print, but I can't quite figure it out completely. I followed gr5's instructions in this thread, and it works, but not completely. I have managed to find the correct layer, and the point in the gcode where the printer stopped. I edited my gcode to start were it left off, using gr5's instructions. This works fine, but somehow there's an offset of about 3.25mm in the y-direction. I used calipers to measure it as best I could. The strange thing is that when I check the coordinates in the gcode using pronterface, everything looks just fine. So I tried to adjust the gcode to accomodate for this. First, I checked the reprap wiki and I tried to use M218 to set an offset to the hot end, but this didn't change anything unfortunately. Then, I found this topic about setting a print bed offset, so I tried using those commands to adjust the origin, but again, no cigar. I'm not quite ready yet to give up on my print, so hopefully one of you knows a solution. This is what the start of my gcode looks like currently ;FLAVOR:UltiGCode;TIME:57424;MATERIAL:107712;MATERIAL2:0;NOZZLE_DIAMETER:0.4;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 2.1.2;LAYER_COUNT:332;LAYER:0; try to adjust the origin of the printerG28G0 X0 Y0 Z0G92 X0 Y3.25 Z0M106 S200G1 F9000 X0 Y0 Z60.500;TYPE:SKIRT;LAYER:302G10G1 Z45.950G0 X104.380 Y70.229 Z46.100;TYPE:SKIRTG1 Z45.600G11G92 E7470.42589; from here on, nothing was changedG1 X104.749 Y82.501 E7470.49189G1 X33.443 Y82.501 E7474.77025G1 X33.442 Y81.401 E7474.83625G1 X35.843 Y81.401 E7474.98031
  13. Hey, Unfortunately someone accidentally unplugged my um2 today after 10+ hours of a 25h print. I followed the steps you mentioned to try to recover the print. I'd never used pronterface before, but eventually I managed to get it to work. Finding the right layer was quite difficult. I tried to find the right coordinates using pronterface to move the nozzle, and eventually I think I found the right spot. I adjusted the gcode according to your specifications. I tested some of the commands using pronterface to be sure I didn't make any mistakes. Then I saved the gcode to SD and ran it on my um2. I was really glad when the printer seemed to resume where it had left off. The printer did indeed start printing the right layer (as far as I could tell, which was quite hard since the layer height was set to .06mm), but somehow the alignment was off. It appeared as though the nozzle was slightly too low, causing it to drag through the old print (which was quite solid since a few hours had passed). Now of course this could be an error on my part, but also the y-alignment was incorrect. The continued part of the print was shifted about 3 mm or so to the back. Is it possible I did something wrong in pronterface? I did play around a bit, moving the nozzle a few times and homing it again, but I didn't expect that to have any influence. Is there anything I can do the next time to prevent this from happening?
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