Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

Personal Information

  • Country
  • Industry
    R&D / Exploration

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Here's a tutorial on how to change your S3D gcode to use G10 and G11 codes for retract and unretract, for which settings can be changed from the menu on your Ultimaker. However, it doesn't work if you want to retract during wipe movements. http://thrinter.com/using-firmware-retraction-with-simplify3d/
  2. Wow, this is just gorgeous! One feature in TinkerMarlin that I really like, is that it does not just show the flow percentage, but also the actual output in mm3/s. Might be worth adding that.
  3. That looks amazing! I love the icons in the top, really nice to have that information while you're working on other settings. I'm assuming this was just a simulation, but if it wasn't you should probably take a look at the PID values of your bed, that temperature oscillates way too much
  4. Thanks guys, that's reassuring. I was not looking forward to having to replace the board, this hobby is expensive enough as it is
  5. That looks very cool, and it seems to be very quick as well. Doesn't look like a setup you could run at home though, unfortunately.
  6. Hey, I will probably be replacing my feeder motor, so I screwed off the pcb cover to see what the connectors for the steppers look like. I noticed some brown spots on the pcb: Is this normal? My machine has been on for about 3900 h, and has printed about 2500 h.
  7. Hey, I just noticed that there are some red lights blinking on the electronics board of my printer. I never saw them before. The printer is running and appears to be working just fine, so I'm assuming this is normal and nothing to worry about. I just want to make sure I'm not ignoring a 'check engine light' or something similar. (After all, assumption is the mother of all fuck ups). Does anybody know?
  8. Today I unfortunately had another print that failed close to finishing, when somehow the filament got tangled on the spool and the feeder got stuck. The last bit that was printed was way underextruded, mostly strings and a few blobs here and there. I decided to use pronterface to print the remaining part, mostly because I was afraid that the Ultimaker start up sequence, where it raises the bed and then moves the print head to the front, would bump the print head into the print. I edited the gcode again, just starting at the beginning of the layer where it had stopped and adding a G92 to adju
  9. I bought my UM2 second hand from the local printing shop, so unfortunately I don't have the Ultimaker PLA. When I get new spools I will definitely test those too!
  10. TL;DR: I ran this test a couple times using blue (2x), black, white and gold. Here are some pictures. I tried this test for the first time yesterday, using Dark Blue PLA (I think they changed the name to Ultramarine Blue). I was quite happy with the result. Everything looks fine up to 8 mm³/s, at 9 there's some slight underextrusion and even more so at 10. Today I used Traffic Black PLA, and I decided to run the test again, with quite a different outcome. I had expected different colours to have different results, but I was a bit surprised by the extent. Near the last lines of the 7 mm³/s
  11. I didn't want to leave my printer idle any longer, so I wrote a script to adjust all the Y values in the gcode. Worked like a charm Unfortunately there's also a small offset in the x-direction that I couldn't see before, but I can't really be bothered to stop the print again. However, if anyone knows a solution to this problem (without adjusting every value), or why it even occurs in the first place, I'd still like to hear it.
  12. Hey everybody, Today I learned the hard way that launching cura 2.1.2 whilst connected to your printer, will reboot the printer. Unfortunately I had a 16h print running, which had almost finished, and it was interrupted. I am now trying to save my print, but I can't quite figure it out completely. I followed gr5's instructions in this thread, and it works, but not completely. I have managed to find the correct layer, and the point in the gcode where the printer stopped. I edited my gcode to start were it left off, using gr5's instructions. This works fine, but somehow there's an offset of
  13. Hey, Unfortunately someone accidentally unplugged my um2 today after 10+ hours of a 25h print. I followed the steps you mentioned to try to recover the print. I'd never used pronterface before, but eventually I managed to get it to work. Finding the right layer was quite difficult. I tried to find the right coordinates using pronterface to move the nozzle, and eventually I think I found the right spot. I adjusted the gcode according to your specifications. I tested some of the commands using pronterface to be sure I didn't make any mistakes. Then I saved the gcode to SD and ran it on my um2.
  • Create New...