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Everything posted by Pilla

  1. Thank you for reminding me about the older Cura, rowiac. That seems to work. I got my 3 squares printed nicely by moving the bed up a hair. This bed leveling wizard uses 210 C for the nozzle and 70 C for the bed - higher than my usual. I hope to get a successful test print! If you don't hear from me any more, I succeeded.
  2. I have been having trouble since I bought a new brass nozzle. I replaced the old one with the same type, after over a year of daily prints. Now I have two problems. 1. When doing the Checkup using Cura 3.1, the nozzle temperature never says "checked", even though the nozzle heats to 180C and stays with in +/- 0.5C. (I won't worry too much about that, since it's heating.) The X, Y, and Z-stops and also the bed temperature Checkup just fine. 2. The first layer is not good. I have set the Z-stop, and with blue Loctite for vibrating screws, held it in place, in the right place. The
  3. Tommyph1208, you were right! I just leveled the bed to humor you and Neotko, and whoop whoop! The bed needed to be lowered a tad bit on all three screws. Neotko, I think that black spot was from the previous filament, which was bronze fill. I haven't seen that again. Big smile!
  4. I am having extrusion problems with my UMO+. This began when I had a filament tangle. I've tried tightening the tension spring, loosening the spring, increasing the flow even up to 120%, and still get this erratic extrusion. Searching on the community, I see a similar problem from April 17, 2017, which was caused by the Delrin wheel. I took that out, hammered the middle bearing in to be more centered, and reassembled. It "may" have been deforming, but nothing obvious. (I can't find a roller bearing of that size here in town.) After that, I started printing again, and the pictures show the re
  5. Neotko, thanks! That looks like a very cool gear setup. I will download the files and print in my local Makerspace.
  6. I have a similar problem. My Ultimaker Original+ has been fine, printing for months now, until suddenly it started this "random" underextrusion. Changing filament, nozzle temp, print speed, all didn't help. But I found the root cause just now. While staring into the feeder mechanism with a flashlight while it printed slowly, I saw 6 teeth on the large gear were worn down! I have a picture if that's important, showing the white wood where the black paint is worn off the gear teeth. I successfully printed a part by standing there with my flashlight, and every 360 degree turn, I helped the gear
  7. Success! Thanks Gr5 and LePaul, and of course, Yellowshark. This print had absolutely NO blobs. After about 45 minutes, I stopped waiting to flick away blobs, and cooked dinner. Strings were few and minor. So here's my interpretation: The nozzle needed to be tightened while it was hot in order to seal it. With no leaking plastic, there were no blobs, and the strings seem to have been related. The Bowden tube was not loose, Gr5. But letting me know that the "100" print speed in Tune meant 100% was a key bit of new knowledge! Now I will optimize my settings. [print=5039][/print]
  8. Version 1.0


    Finally got my new printer to do beautiful work! 30 mm on each outer edge.
  9. I have to say thank you, Yellowshark. You have been very helpful. Here's an update while I'm still working on it. My model is a 30 mm cube, overall, with 15 mm cubes hinged together. http://www.thingiverse.com/download:1468108 When I started printing my model at 30 mm/s (as I set in Cura 15.04.6), the Tune menu still said 100 mm/s. So I dialed it down to 30 and the printhead just crawls along - apparently when I thought I was running at 30 mm/s earlier, I wasn't! I watched the fan speed, too. It started at 50% at layer 2 or 3, then went to 100% soon after that. I got underextrusion on the firs
  10. Maybe the blobbing is a leak around the nozzle. I have previously taken it off and reinstalled it. Maybe another time, following the video I found in the Art of Printing section of the community? But first, your settings, Yellowshark. Probably the blobs, strings and stopping are 3 unrelated issues. I was expecting the printer to be much easier to use!
  11. A thought on the right side being stringier - the fan is on the left side. Maybe that's the cause of the right/left difference. Results of my speed/temp variation test: Run 1: High speed and high temp. In Cura 15.04.6, I set nozzle temp to 205 and print speed to 125. While printing, I looked in the Tune menu on the UMO+ and saw the speed was only 100. That was the same as the video above, so I stopped the print. The number of globs was only one. The stringiness would be a 1 on a scale of 1 to 5 with 5 being perfect. Run 2: High speed and low temp. In Cura, nozzle set to 195, print speed sti
  12. Thanks, Yellowshark. My print "speeds" are nozzle diam x layer height x print speed. I figured on varying print speed and nozzle temp in a 2x2 matrix today. Put my Design of Experiments training to use!
  13. I wonder what can cause problems that are really centered on the back side and right on my new UMO+. It has taken me some work to get this successful (?) print. Standard 0.4 mm nozzle. Material: UM silver PLA. I have varied the nozzle temp from 205 C to 210 C. This print is at 205 C. I tried and failed with layer height 0.1 mm, and this print is at 0.15 mm. I have varied the print speed to go from 1.25 mm^3/s up to this print at 6 mm^3/s. The faster works better. It completed the print, hooray! I presume that I did something funny in the assembly. Any ideas?
  14. I'm sorry that my original reply somehow disappeared. The short pulleys that go vertically were the ones that were slipping. Once I cranked on those pulley screws, X and Y moved correctly. I finally managed to print a little Ultimaker robot!!!
  15. I just spent a long time writing this topic, and got a 503 error. I have a video here to show what happens on my brand new just assembled Original+ when I try to do the calibration and configuration: During assembly following v3.0 manual, on page 38, it said Check if all axles are able to turn freely. If not, add a washer between the axle and the wooden cap. They all turn, but I don't know if freely enough, so I went on. On pg 68 it says Check if the head moves smoothly. Move the print head diagonally through the printer, you should not feel any resistance. If you do, the print head is p
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