AddMan

Thanks @geert_2, I've started doing your "flintstone" idea 😁. I did my first prints as per the original design, but have now started to modify it with additional support where the main stresses are. This has been somewhat successful, but ended up clashing with other components so have had to refine design. I've yet to try Nylon. I think I might try the stronger design combined with the strength of Nylon and see where it goes.

Great advice @Torgeir, I think it's important to be patient here 🙂. I get excited when my print is finished and want to get to it as soon as possible. I think I will use my bed that is already chipped. Thanks, AddMan

Hello @Torgeir, Thank you for all your help, Nylon looks like it needs some respect, so thanks for all your advice. I have previously tried the PVA glue slurry, but only with PLA. It definitely stuck, I ruined one of my glass plates removing the print! Lesson learned. How hard is it to remove nylon, and do you have any tips? Is it best to let it cool down first? I also need to print with support, which adds an additional layer of difficulty. Thanks, Add Man

Hello Torgeir, Thank you so much for your detailed response; I'm learning fast what a harsh environment it is inside my dishwasher! I haven't printed with Nylon before so I really appreciate all your advice. I have a forgiving tolerance on the part I need, so dimensionally it is not an issue, it just needs the strength to survive the high temps. At the moment I've just replicated the original part, but I may redesign it to provide additional support in the direction of the greatest stress. If you have pics of what you have done I would love to see them. Thanks again, AddMan

Thanks DD, I kind of based it on the glass transition of PC without considering the other factors at play. The inside of a dishwasher can be a pretty aggressive. I didn't anneal the PC, which is my bad, but I had issues with it being brittle even before I used in the DW. ABS is going to be the next test; failing that I might give Nylon a go, or some glass reinforced filament I have lying around. Thanks for your feedback, much appreciated. AddMan

Thanks DD, I kind of based it on the glass transition of PC without considering the other factors at play. The inside of a dishwasher can be a pretty aggressive. I didn't anneal the PC, which is my bad, but I had issues with it being brittle even before I used in the DW. ABS is going to be the next test; failing that I might give Nylon a go r some glass reinforced filament I have lying around. Thanks for your feedback, much appreciated. AddMan

OK, an update to above. Successfully used PETG for a few washes, no issues with breaking, however it has started stretching with each wash. Must be hitting the glass transition for PETG which surprised me a little, I didn't think it would get that hot. Printed with Polymaker PC plus. Two have now shattered on the first try?? I was expecting the PC to be much more durable. This is my first attempt to print with PC; not sure if I'm doing something wrong. 🤷‍♀️

Hey jirodriguez72, thanks for reply. I like your suggestion for PC. I have successfully made what I need in PETG, but it is a little too brittle and less forgiving like you said. I've got some PC here I can try, thanks for your help. 👍

Hey all, Currently printing replacement broken clips for a dishwasher. Planning on using PETG as it should withstand the temps, but just wondering if there are potential food safe issues. Is PETG likely to leech anything, particularly at increased temps, or is this insignificant and not of any concern. Is there a better material option. I have an Ultimaker S5. Thanks and happy printing!

Hi All, I'm looking to get get a CC print core for abrasive filaments and was wondering if anyone can provide feedback with their experiences for both the new version as well as the older Ruby 0.6? I've heard there have been some issues with clogging with the newer version and I want to check if this is due to the print core or nozzle size. I know the newer ones have different size options whereas the older Ruby only came in 0.6. Is it prudent to not go below 0.6 with abrasive filaments which would inherently clog by nature of their composition? Living at the end of the universe in Australia I still have access to the old stock, so just trying to decide which way to go. Thanks, AddMan

Thanks Smithy, I kind of figured so, as it's just a standard rocker switch, but always cheaper to check than assume 🙂 I always give the printer plenty of time for cooldown, but thanks for the reminder. Happy printing!

I sometimes remotely turn off my S5 after it has finished a print if I'm not there or doing it over night. I do this through a remote switch at the power point, effectively just cutting the power to the printer. Does anyone know if this is detrimental or not to the printer and is it essentially the same as turning off via the main switch at the back? Is the main switch simply a manual disconnect of the power or is it a more complex power down, and therefore is crudely removing the power potentially harmful to the electronics?

Hi cyclepath, Yes it is very stressful, especially if you need to get a job going. You probably don't need to wait 30 mins, I would give it 5 mins or so and it was obvious it had hung. According to gr5 this can be caused by problems with the solid state drive. My problem was not as dramatic as yours, I would fail boot up once in every 2 or 3 startups, but it always started on the second try. From what I understand it's only likely to be an issue if you do an upgrade and it possibly writes to a bad sector. Not doing updates is an option, but I didn't consider this a solution, especially over time. I think you have two choices, replace the main board that has the SSD or try gr5's unbricking procedure that he has a link to earlier in this post. This would at least isolate the bad sectors, and is a cheaper option than replacing the board. How old is your Ultimaker? AddMan

Hey gr5, Sorry for the late reply. I didn't end up doing the unbricking. I ended up contacting my local agent and they also identified the main board as the culprit which I had replaced. So far so good. Thanks for all your help as always 🙂 Cheers, Alex.

Thanks for the reply gr5. What is considered old?!! My machine is less than 2 years old. If it's a common problem then I would consider this a design fault. Is there solution offered by Ultimaker? Avoiding updates is not a solution, surely the machine should be able to cope with this, especially as we're constantly encouraged to do these??!! ☹️

Hi All, For a while now I've had issues with my S5 getting stuck on startup when switched on. It goes through the normal flashing of the LED's and screen changes, but ultimately gets stuck with the Ultimaker logo on the screen and never completes it's startup. It doesn't happen all the time, typically with every second or third startup, and it always works with a restart. This has spanned a number of program updates, and has currently been updated to the latest version and it has just frozen once again. Is anybody else having similar issues? Thanks.

Something is not right? From what I understand (please correct me if I am wrong) but the active calibration is designed to remove the discrepancies with the build plate. No manual calibration will ever be accurate across the entire plate, it's only intended to get it close. The active calibration compensates for the slight differences and adjusts the height of the nozzle during the print depending on which part of the build it is over. I have an S5, but I would have thought it would behave the same as your 3. Does the skirt line at the beginning print evenly?

Lancy, did you get two glass plates with your printer and is your second one the same? The printer does a calibration before each print which should account for all deviations in the build surface. Which printer do you have?

Brilliant! Nice job. My best friend is Tiger mad, he has one tattooed across his back. He would love this. Nice work, thanks for sharing.

Would you need to use Ultimaker cleaning filament for this or will a PLA hot/cold pull clear an ABS blockage?

Hey guna, Do you also have an S5? Is your problem under extrusion? And the filament ends up grinding because it can't feed through, like a blockage, but when you clear it, it seems fine? Interesting that ABS works and not PLA, but that may be explained by the different temperature requirements. In my case it was definitely because the front cooling fan was not running as identified by Smithy. Since I got that going everything is working perfectly. Check your fan is running once the print core gets over 50 degrees. You can check this through the front panel.

Hey Smithy, You're a gun! The front fan had stalled! I gave it a nudge and it's back in action. I must admit I had noticed it wasn't going, but for some stupid reason I dismissed it because I thought it was the linked to the print cooling which is off for the first couple of layers. Of course it's for the cores and not the print. I should have noticed the familiar whir was missing. Not sure why it was stuck, I keep it really clean. I'll keep an eye on. SandervG/Smithy, thank you both for jumping on this so quick, I really appreciate the support and help. Cheers, stay safe.

Hi SandervG, Thanks for your quick reply. No material station, it's just a standalone S5. I've cleaned both print core pcb's, although I assume these are independent of each other and unlikely to both fail at the same time. If I change the filament t extrudes correctly. If I remove the bowden tube I can feed it manually. I can feed it through the controls on the front and it extrudes. As soon as I try and print something it stops extruding and grinds the filament. It comes up to temp quick enough, about the rate you suggested above. It seems to hold this during printing and I assume the displayed value is measured not calculated so this should suggest the temperature is correct. It feels like a temperature problem, especially as a couple of times now it failed to reach temperature for a hot pull, but I can't pin it down. Thanks for your help

I'm going nuts! All of a sudden both nozzles on my S5 are printing like they are blocked. I've done hots pulls, cold pulls I'm now pulling my hair out. They are both clean and extrude fine manually. I can even see light through the nozzle so I assume it's ok, but not long after the print starts the filament stops feeding. The extruder is trying to feed, if I let it go long enough it starts grinding. I've tried three different brands of PLA filament including a brand new one. As I write this it has just thrown up an error that the print core is taking too long to warm up and has crashed. If the print core has trouble keeping temp then that could explain why it can't extrude, but when I look at it manually there hasn't been any temp issues. All this started after the last firmware upgrade. Has something changed or is it just coincidence? Any help appreciated.

Hi Guys, This has happened twice now in the last two days on my new S5. In my case its at the extruder end. If I cut a small piece off at this end I lose the bevelled edge. Will this affect the filament feeding into the bowden?