Shane
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Posts posted by Shane
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hi,
i recently received the 2x kit from ulticreatr and mounted it to my ultimaker 2+. They didn't shipped the firmware with the kit, so i just branched the original ultimaker2marlin and patched it for the dual extruders.
Moreover I patched the power consumption problems of the ulticreatr2x kit in a very naive way.
The problem with the power consumption is, that the original power supply is not strong enought to serve the 2 heaters, each with 2 heat capsules, and the heat bed at the same time. It is only possible to switch both hotends on or the heat bed, not even one hotend with the heat bed is stable.
I solved it by a simple bidding approch, if one of the hot ends is requesting power and the sum of both hot end requests is greater than the request of the heat bed or one of the hot ends is requesting full power, then the hot ends are served. Otherwise if the heat bed is requesting power it is served if it is requesting power.
You can find my changes in my repo on github, feel free to use it or to improve it
https://github.com/timschneider/Ultimaker2Marlin/tree/ulticreatr-2x-bidding-approch
One thing i have in mind, is to average the power consumption, e.g. start the heat bed after at hot ends are switched off within a pwm period. it is as well very easy, but currently the first approch is working fine, so no need to change
tim
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Hello community,
I was wondering if anybody out there has this kit and has it working with the heated bed.
And if so I'd love to hear how you did it. I bought this kit about 2 months ago and still cant get it to work.
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I just reinstalled the default firmware through Cura and everything works again. Is it possible to get an uncompiled version of this.
Thanks neotko. I appreciate your time spent trying to help.
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Hello neotko,
I just uploaded the Ultimaker/UM2.1 JarJarExtended files.
In the bed leveling process the bed height looks good but of the 3 locations the print head cycles through the first location is wrong. Instead of moving to the center rear it moves to center front then moves back along Y then left and right along X. The 2nd and 3rd locations look right. The first location seem backwards. The home head works fine.
Here's the new echo from JarJarExtended.
Connecting...
start
Printer is now online.
echo:Marlin 1.0.0
echo: Last Updated: Aug 7 2016 09:28:58 | Author: Version DEV
Compiled: Aug 7 2016
echo: Free Memory: 2023 PlannerBufferBytes: 1232
echo:Stored settings retrieved
echo:Steps per unit:
echo: M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z200.00 E369.00
echo:Maximum feedrates (mm/s):
echo: M203 X300.00 Y300.00 Z40.00 E45.00
echo:Maximum Acceleration (mm/s2):
echo: M201 X9000 Y9000 Z100 E10000
echo:Acceleration: S=acceleration, T=retract acceleration
echo: M204 S3000.00 T3000.00
echo:Advanced variables: S=Min feedrate (mm/s), T=Min travel feedrate (mm/s), B=minimum segment time (ms), X=maximum XY jerk (mm/s), Z=maximum Z jerk (mm/s), E=maximum E jerk (mm/s)
echo: M205 S0.00 T0.00 B20000 X20.00 Z0.40 E5.00
echo:Home offset (mm):
echo: M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z-34.90
echo:PID settings:
echo: M301 P10.03 I1.50 D70.00
echo:SD card ok
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Try to download pronterface.com
Connect with it by usb to the printer. As soon you hit 'connect' the program will 'echo' a long list of values like the ones this user did https://ultimaker.com/en/community/20046-extrusor-ha-perdido-su-posicion-000?page=last#reply-140991
Of course your values will be different
Also, while using this program use it to home x / y / z and make a video of it. Just to double check nothing else it's wrong.
The Z home values can be redefined by gcode using pronterface and saved with a M206 Z(CORRECT NUMBER HERE)
And then a M500 to store that new value followed by a 'intro'.
Anyhow, first thing first. Connect by Pronterface and post here all the 'echo' info you get.
EDIT: Forget all this atm
The link that @Tingergnome posted also have the 'extended' version. Click on the branch to choose it:
Thanks for the help neotko,
Here's the echo info. Everything homed properly in pronterface.
Connecting...
start
Printer is now online.
echo:Marlin 1.0.0
echo: Last Updated: Aug 6 2016 23:27:03 | Author: Version DEV
Compiled: Aug 6 2016
echo: Free Memory: 1682 PlannerBufferBytes: 1232
echo:Stored settings retrieved
echo:Steps per unit:
echo: M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z200.00 E369.00
echo:Maximum feedrates (mm/s):
echo: M203 X300.00 Y300.00 Z40.00 E45.00
echo:Maximum Acceleration (mm/s2):
echo: M201 X9000 Y9000 Z100 E10000
echo:Acceleration: S=acceleration, T=retract acceleration
echo: M204 S3000.00 T3000.00
echo:Advanced variables: S=Min feedrate (mm/s), T=Min travel feedrate (mm/s), B=minimum segment time (ms), X=maximum XY jerk (mm/s), Z=maximum Z jerk (mm/s), E=maximum E jerk (mm/s)
echo: M205 S0.00 T0.00 B20000 X20.00 Z0.40 E5.00
echo:Home offset (mm):
echo: M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z-28.90
echo:PID settings:
echo: M301 P10.03 I1.50 D70.00
echo:SD card ok
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The firmware sources are on GitHub:
You _can_ edit it with the Arduino IDE, but using Code:Blocks with the included project file (and the simulator) is much more convenient.
Hello tinkergnome,
I tried this firmware. It's not configured for the 2+Extended. During the bed leveling process the plate stops way short and the head moves to the front of the plate(instead of the rear) and only moves in the x axis throughout the process. Tried looking for the 2+ on GitHub but couldn't find it.
Any help would be appreciated. thanks
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Thanks neotko
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Hello neotko,What'l hotend it's that?
I use a meanwell 280W model http://www.mouser.com/Search/m_ProductDetail.aspx?Mean-Well%2FGS280A24-C4P%2F&qs=b8LFrSqGEF9zAXdxwVL1Jw%3D%3D
The problem it's that you have to 'cut' the CP4 plug and replace it with the correct R7B. Anyhow I think there are many powerbricks that can provide more than 220W. The think that I don't know it's how many max amps can the board actually use without issues, but probably someone with more knowhow will answer you.
The link to the power source didn't work but I found this one on Amazon. Is this the one?
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Thanks gr5,
I was also wondering does the power supply send out a 5v and 24v or just 24v.
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Thanks tinkergnome
I appreciate the help.
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Thanks for the help.
I already have the hex files and have been through their site many times.
I'm going to try disconnecting the secondary heating elements in both nozzle heating blocks and if this works I'll try another power source.
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Does anybody Know where I can find the 2+Extended firmware(not the hex file?
If possible could you post a link?
Also, can I edit it with Arduino IDE?
I would love to learn more about it. Is there a Marlin for Big Dummies book available?
Any help would be appreciated. thanks
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Thanks for the response neotko.
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Hello anon4321,
Thanks for the response.
The power goes out then back on. When the power comes back its the same as when the machine is powered on from the off state. The Ultimaker greeting is displayed then the first menu.
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Does anybody know if this type of power source would work on the Utimaker 2+Extended.And if not, why?
This pic is a 24v 300w.
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Hope to hear from team Ultimaker.
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Hello neotko,
I was wondering, are u using the Creatr firmware or the Marlin? Have you tried another firmware? paid to much for this kit to give up. Determined to make it work with or without Creatr.
I did get a response from a community member that said he got it working with another firmware that he modified. Marlin mega something. He sent me a link to down load but was unsure if it was the right one. It didnt work for my machine. Still had the shut down issue and didn't appear to be configured for Extended+. Need to do some more research. Maybe the issues are all firmware related.
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Hello pluggedin,
I bought and installed the kit weeks ago.
I'll try to summarize my experience as best as I can.
For starters, still doesn't work. The installation instructions need work. the kit doesn't ship with any. It's all on line. The online documentation for this product say that it ships with every thing you need including the software. Not true in my experience. Online documentation also states that its guaranteed to work. So far it doesn't. What makes this expensive indevour so frustrating is the support. Your emails can takes weeks to be answered. In my mind this product shouldn't be on the market yet. To many problems with no resolution in sight from this company. Buyer beware.
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Hello gr5,
I don't have the information at the moment but I have another question.
I have a dual extrusion kit. The hotends are pulling over 3amp each(80+w). Cant print because the machine shuts down. I added up the max current draw of the head cooling fans, bed, 1 nozzle, LED's. The value exceeds my power supply. I measured the current draw of the stock nozzle heater block at 1.4amps(33.6w). Less than half the setup is trying to pull now.
Could the power shutdown be caused by power allocation within the firmware.
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My readings were taken with a Fluke 374 True RMS digital clamp meter. The 6.5 Amp reading was obtained in min/max mode and measures the current fluctuation then shows the minimum, average and maximum. 6.5 was the max.
This paragraph came from Fluke. Thanks for your response.
A more sophisticated true-rms meter can accurately measure both pure waves and the more complex nonsinusoidal waves. Waveforms can be distorted by nonlinear loads such as variable speed drives or computers. An averaging meter attempting to measure distorted waves can be up to 40% low or 10% high in its calculations.
The need for true-rms meters has grown as the possibility of nonsinusoidal waves in circuits has greatly increased in recent years. Some examples:
•Variable-speed motor drives
•Electronic ballasts
•Computers
•HVAC
•Solid-state environments
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That's still to much current for my power source. gr5 said that the mother board pathways are identical for the hot end and heated bed. The bed is listed at 7.5amps so I'm guessing the hot end board path can handle the same. Does the marlin firmware require power source specifics. I looked on e-bay and there's plenty of options for under$100.00. 24v 12,13,14 and even 15 amp. Just need to add cords. So this would work. I just don't know much about the information the firmware requires to add this type of power source.
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Are you sure their 80W. 80w divided by 24 volts is 3.333333Amps.
I used a fluke 374 clamp meter in min/max mode to check current on the bed(6.5amps), LED's(0.3amps),dual cooling fans on the head(0.3amps)(I don't mean the 2 material cooling fans).one heating element of the hot end(1.7amps). If those blocks are 80w that over 10 amps. just for those 4 items. And that's not everthing at work. I didn't want to cut the cord on the expensive stock power source to check the overall current draw.
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Thanks for the response gr5. Every bit helps. The hot plate has 7.5amps printed on it but I measured it with a fluke clamp meter at 6.5amps during its operation.
To answer neotko's "What hot end is that".
They 're part of the Creatr 2X Dual extrusion kit. Almost identical dimensionally to the olssen block. Three holes in the back to accommodate 2 heating elements and 1 temp sensor. Slight offset on the screw that comes out the top of the block that enters the bottom plate. A new bottom plate ships with the kit.
These blocks heat up rapidly but because of the extra wire mass they cant be ran up through the center of the print head like the original equipment.
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My 2+ Extended keeps shutting down at the end of the bed preheat right before it preheats the nozzle before a print.
After the shut down it immediately restarts.
If I try to print a again, after restart, it shuts down about 1/2 way through the bed preheat. Sooner than before.
Theres no shutdown during manual preheat for bed and nozzle individually.
If I slice with the heated bed turned off I don't get a shutdown but still cant print because feeder 1 is inverted.
If I revert back to default firmware and unplug the kit hardware and plug in the original nozzle the machine works.
The nozzle heater blocks on this kit have 2 heating elements each and theres also an additional fan and heatsink on the print head.
I think the firmware is leapfrog.
This kit appears to consume more power than the original equipment.
Is this a power issue or maybe firmware settings.
I'm reaching out to the community for help on this matter because my machine has been down for about three weaks.
Perhaps Creatr support team is preoccupied with other projects. I don't know.
Can anybody Help.
Ulticreatr 2X: Dual extrusion for Ultimaker 2 and Ultimaker 2+
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
Hi Tim.
I also bought this kit but gave up on it.
It appears that you got it to work. Is the machine fully functional and still capable of nice prints? I would love to hear more.
I have the 2+Extended and could pay you for a working hex file.