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conny_g last won the day on September 4 2018

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  1. Unfortunately I did not continue with that project back then. Work and other projects so it got stuck there. Generally worked little on electronics projects so that also the need for the solution was less. So I did not notice that the project is stuck 🙂
  2. As far as I know the extrusion stepper is not the same, it is step angle 1,8 degrees while the axis motors are 0,9 degrees. And I think it’s worth to recover the printer. Would you buy it used with this „mileage“ but working it would surely still cost 500+ Euros and there would be some maintenance of belts etc required. I am sure you can get it working for less than 500 Euros and a few 10 hours of work.
  3. Upper left was chosen to reuse the holes there, as UM2+ does not have the 2nd feeder mounting holes. You can mount it at the same height as the 1st feeder on the opposite site if you want, there is no reason against that.
  4. I have: Kp 8.5 Ki 0.75 Kd 45 I remember I spent some 2 hours on figuring out how it works best. The autotune parameters were not as good. I have a 50W heater in the hotend and it used to overshoot significantly with the autotune parameters.
  5. Ah. Then I was confusing the tinker version with the Mark 2 version.
  6. This adjusts the z position of the currently active extruder. So if you want to adjust it for the 2nd extruder, you need to activate it and then go to z adjust.
  7. Tinkergnome has added a power budget feature that allows to limit / prioritize the power usage between bed and the heads. With that I think it's not necessary to change the power supply. But it's also possible to upgrade the power supply. I have done that and I have used this: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/Top-Qualit-t-24-V-15A-3D-Prnter-Ultimaker2-Netzteil-F-r-Ultimaker-2-UM2-Erweiterte/32832288123.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.77204c4dDxlATR LOL, the 35W heater has 10W more power. SCNR. It has lower resistance, draws higher current so it heats up more. It gets the sa
  8. Not recommended to do dual printing this way. The reason is: If it's manufactured perfectly the nozzles are on the same height. But that's not good because your 2nd nozzle will ooze on your print while the 1st is printing and vice versa. For this reason all dual head concept work with two heads or with a lifting mechanism for the unused nozzle. And likely the two nozzles of this head have a slightly different height and that's even worse. Because then the lower nozzle would actually end vertically "in" your print and scratch it during printing.
  9. No suggestions needed. The first setup for UM2 is not special in any way. And the camera issue (capture timing out) is not related to Octolapse, it’s something between camera driver and the image capturing (kernel?) framework.
  10. Thanks for your feedback, that confirms and extends what I have learnt about accuracy the last days. I agree that it seems best to give it the final perfection by adjusting the e-steps. Just trying that to tune that a little bit with every new piece. In the last iteration the difference between the lego pimples was already much less, having increased the e-steps by 2%.
  11. Hi there, I am currently printing a series of lego base plates for my kids and ran into an interesting observation: The "pimples" need to very accurate 4.8mm for the lego bricks to stick well but not too much. It's sensitive to 0,1mm deviation, if they are 4.7xmm the bricks are too loose, if they are > 4.85mm they are too tight (and will rip off the pimples when removing them) or won't fit on at all (approaching 4,9mm). I spent some time to find the sweet spot for two UM2+ with Bondtech extruders and 3D Solex Race block + nozzles in terms of extrusion calibration, temperat
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