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conny_g last won the day on September 4 2018

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  1. As far as I know the extrusion stepper is not the same, it is step angle 1,8 degrees while the axis motors are 0,9 degrees. And I think it’s worth to recover the printer. Would you buy it used with this „mileage“ but working it would surely still cost 500+ Euros and there would be some maintenance of belts etc required. I am sure you can get it working for less than 500 Euros and a few 10 hours of work.
  2. Upper left was chosen to reuse the holes there, as UM2+ does not have the 2nd feeder mounting holes. You can mount it at the same height as the 1st feeder on the opposite site if you want, there is no reason against that.
  3. I have: Kp 8.5 Ki 0.75 Kd 45 I remember I spent some 2 hours on figuring out how it works best. The autotune parameters were not as good. I have a 50W heater in the hotend and it used to overshoot significantly with the autotune parameters.
  4. Ah. Then I was confusing the tinker version with the Mark 2 version.
  5. This adjusts the z position of the currently active extruder. So if you want to adjust it for the 2nd extruder, you need to activate it and then go to z adjust.
  6. Tinkergnome has added a power budget feature that allows to limit / prioritize the power usage between bed and the heads. With that I think it's not necessary to change the power supply. But it's also possible to upgrade the power supply. I have done that and I have used this: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/Top-Qualit-t-24-V-15A-3D-Prnter-Ultimaker2-Netzteil-F-r-Ultimaker-2-UM2-Erweiterte/32832288123.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.77204c4dDxlATR LOL, the 35W heater has 10W more power. SCNR. It has lower resistance, draws higher current so it heats up more. It gets the same voltage. Yes, there are 50W heaters, I have replaced my heaters with these and the heads heat up really quickly. https://3dsolex.com/product/50w-heater-um2/ Yes, it has a z offset adjust feature. Here https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/1091_Main_board_v2.1.1_(x1)/Main Board V2.1.1.pdf on page 5 you find the silk screen print of the board and see that the 5V fan is J34. On page 9 in the circuit schemas you find that J34 is connected directly to 5V, there is no PWM regulation or anything.
  7. Not recommended to do dual printing this way. The reason is: If it's manufactured perfectly the nozzles are on the same height. But that's not good because your 2nd nozzle will ooze on your print while the 1st is printing and vice versa. For this reason all dual head concept work with two heads or with a lifting mechanism for the unused nozzle. And likely the two nozzles of this head have a slightly different height and that's even worse. Because then the lower nozzle would actually end vertically "in" your print and scratch it during printing.
  8. No suggestions needed. The first setup for UM2 is not special in any way. And the camera issue (capture timing out) is not related to Octolapse, it’s something between camera driver and the image capturing (kernel?) framework.
  9. Thanks for your feedback, that confirms and extends what I have learnt about accuracy the last days. I agree that it seems best to give it the final perfection by adjusting the e-steps. Just trying that to tune that a little bit with every new piece. In the last iteration the difference between the lego pimples was already much less, having increased the e-steps by 2%.
  10. Hi there, I am currently printing a series of lego base plates for my kids and ran into an interesting observation: The "pimples" need to very accurate 4.8mm for the lego bricks to stick well but not too much. It's sensitive to 0,1mm deviation, if they are 4.7xmm the bricks are too loose, if they are > 4.85mm they are too tight (and will rip off the pimples when removing them) or won't fit on at all (approaching 4,9mm). I spent some time to find the sweet spot for two UM2+ with Bondtech extruders and 3D Solex Race block + nozzles in terms of extrusion calibration, temperature and measurements of the .STL so that the base plates are usable in a controllable way. But still - exact same settings, conditions, filament, nozzle etc. - the "left" printer produces them more loose (4,75mm) than the other, the "right" one where the bricks sit very (almost too) tight, with 4,80-4,85mm of pimple diameter. In the last test print of a 2x4 pimple version of the base plate (takes only 10mins to print) I tried to simply tighten the feeder pressure screw of the Bondtech tighter by about one turn. And interestingly the print got better, instead of 4,75mm pimples I received 4,8mm. In one of the tests before I modified the e-Steps from 510steps/mm (calibrated 100mm feed) to 520 (which is +2%) and it also got better and produced 4,8+mm pimples. In another test earlier I found that also +5 C more temperature made the accuracy better, but the print quality worse (slight stringing). So it seems if you want to print measurements like these as exact as possible it's even feeder tension that will influence it. The extrusion obviously varies very quickly by 2+% if you change feeder tension or temperature. I admit it's a rare use case to need 0,1 and less of accuracy, but an interesting learning. Which way would you go, increase feeder tension (I see the danger of grinding doing so) or would you increase the eSteps/mm by these 2% to compensate for this minimal "slippage" of the feeder? I think the increasing the eSteps is the better way.
  11. Not yet, but I have a Duet board waiting for a test. And then I will find out how Mark2 is to be implemented with that. But I think it will be 1-2 months until I get to try that.
  12. When switching heads the unused one goes to stand-by temperature, the active is heating up to print temperature. Is it that what you mean?
  13. In another iteration I find - or better: I am reminded - that temperature is a key issue influencing the extrusion quality. In hindsight not surprising really, I should know. But it seems I forgot by developing bad "standard procedure" habits. After dialling the temperature up another 15 C the striping disappeared completely and the dimensional accuracy is now perfect. While in the last round the stripes were much better and the dimensions of my lego struts 0.2mm too small. I went up from 190 C to 215 C now. I wasn't aware that the ideal temperature differs that much between 0.1 and 0.2mm layer height. It seems that so far I haven't had a use case where quality with 0.2mm mattered that much so that I didn't notice the "few percent" of underextrusion of 200 C on 0.2 layers. So bottom line, if you do these things right you will not get an underextrusion and/or grinding issue with 0.2mm layers: - proper bed calibration so that the resulting distance is in fact 0.2mm and not less - appropriate extrusion temperature
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