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conny_g

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  1. Afaik you need to change that in the firmware. It’s open source, are you able to do that?
  2. That makes sense! Thanks for your exhaustive input. I have not too much need to print beyond 250/260 degrees currently. It would not be worth on compromising on the non-stickiness. I was just looking for something universal that would cover higher temperatures and last long. But it seems the TFM / PTFE is already a reasonable compromise. So I think I'll remove the I2Ks and otherwise stay with the TFM/PTFE couplers.
  3. I think this is an issue I am having, I have underextrusion issues lately and well posssible that this is the actual reason. Can't tell if the underextrusion happens mainly with PLA, but I am printing PLA 75% of the time. Though it was the nozzles in service for longer, but I should try to remove the I2Ks. The any other material than PTFE doesn't make sense if this is the only one PLA doesn't stick to. So in this case rather accept the wear than have underextrusion...
  4. I have all my head with the i2k and the corresponding coupler of 3DSolex. But it seems that the PBI can handle even higher temperatures and would not need the I2K. But of course if PLA sticks to it that would be bad.
  5. Does anyone manufacture the PBI coupler to buy yet?
  6. Weird to say "glad to hear that". But the last few days printing a larger mechanical object (CO2 laser tube holder πŸ˜‰) the GreenTec was driving me crazy searching for the right print parameters. Good to see I am not alone πŸ™‚ I had checked the nozzle if it was clogged, the feeder if it grips and whatever else. And finally it's just soft for the feeder and of lower viscosity for the nozzle, pretty challenging combination. I researched this in the web and did not read a lot of these issues about it. Actually very little reviews / tests / experience with GreenTec. Makes the impression it's still low in reach in the community.
  7. I have quite some issues with GreenTec. I seem to have strong underextrusion with it. I print it with 115% flow, below that I have gaps in the print between perimeters and infill and sometimes even between perimeters.
  8. Interested. Following this. πŸ™‚
  9. Hi all, I upgraded my 2nd UM2+ to Mark2 recently and had some issues initially. Took me some time to fix the hardware issues (Ultimaker mainboard blown, expansion board broken, nozzle jammed), calibration issues and now to find the right settings to get good dual print results. As it was a mix of things it was at times a bit difficult to understand what was happening. My first "cats" were really ugly and I took a few weeks (not full time, of course) to identify the issues and improve the print. I think I printed some 10-15 cats πŸ™‚ Here's the latest and best now, the best dual print cat I ever printed πŸ™‚ After some hardware issues the rest to tune and improve was print temperature, speed, acceleration, calibration. Temperature: with the 3DSolex Matchless nozzles I needed to go down to 180 C at 30mm/s print speed to get rid of overextrusion in small details and blobs. I think I never dared to print that low. Speed: at 30mm/s and lower (this cat was printed at about 25) seems to be the sweet spot. Acceleration: Interestingly this setting to control acceleration in Cura is really negative for prints with fine details. As the speed/acceleration goes down in the corners of small details, but the extrusion does not go down that fast it creates really bad edges and blobs. Best for this cat was to turn that Cura setting off and set the printer to 2.500/15 for acceleration/jerk. I was never looking here for an issue as this setting really improves prints with large straight areas and sharp corners. But obviously this is killing objects with small details. Calibration: I did the "dual meter" prints one complete evening calibrating the last fractions of millimeters, but still the cat print was off by 0.1-0.2mm. Still don't understand that, but with a few more cat prints, changing the extruder offset 0.05mm each time it got better and better. Also the Z-offset makes a big difference. Print first two layers in two colors and measure them with a caliper. Adjust Z-offest. Repeat until it's <=0.02mm accurate. Overall: it's worth to spend a few hours to a day on calibration, the prints will be much much better if you have fine details like this cat. See zoom photo attached on the "acceleration control" issue below. Hope this helps. I was quite mad and desperate in the middle of this process, really didn't understand why it was better with my first Mark2. But it's simply many parameters to get right and if you don't document them in detail.... Cheers, Conny Pic of this best ever dual color cat print: Zoom image of the best cat, with accelaration control off. Zoom image of one of the earlier tries with acceleration control on: (see the edges of the colors, terrible!)
  10. Upgraded tonight and did a few dual calibration prints. And it seems it runs fine. Looks like the printer runs even more smoothly with Cura 3.3.1.
  11. Hi all, can you tell if the newest Cura versions run fine with Mark2? Afair I have read that there were issues with the 3.x versions so I was not upgrading yet to save time & trouble. Have there been issues at all? Are they fixed? I saw there is additional config files for Cura in the github package for Cura 3, is that all it needs? Cheers, Conny
  12. Recently I was wondering why of my freshly built Mark 2 printer the hotend fan and the model fan of the 2nd hotend won't work. Today I have taken the time to analyse it. Started by putting the printer to its side, opening the Mark 2 expansion board box and measuring the outputs of the board. Finding that there was no voltage on the fans. I noticed that the expansion board was rather hot on one side. My thermal imaging camera (flair one) said it was actually 80 degrees C hot. I saw it was the 1k resistor near the 6 pole header coming from the control panel board. Weird! So I unplugged the expansion board and took it to the desk to check what's wrong. Resistors were ok. One of the transistors had a short, the other at least no proper diode voltages. So it seemed the transistors were dead. But why? Umm. Shouldn't the diodes be the other way around if they are freewheeling diodes. Checked the schematic. Checked the diodes. Yes, they were mounted the wrong way!! I bought the board completed, so the manufacturer mounted the diodes the wrong way and that seems to have killed the transistors.... So I reverted the diodes, mounted new BC817 transistors, reassembled the printer ... and ... it works, the fans are alive! @DidierKlein, who is assembling your boards? :-)
  13. Ordered this one as a spare now: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/High-Quality-3D-Printer-Accessories-2016-Latest-Ultimaker-V2-1-4-Control-Board-Ultimaker-2-Generations/32662872341.html Letβ€˜s see if the quality is ok... :-)
  14. And did you have one with the stepper modules or with soldered drivers? Would you recommend to get one with modules? Would provide for using an alternative driver, getting rid of the zebra stripes.
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