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conny_g

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  1. Could we add a blog / news section on magnetictoolchanger.com where we collect this info about compatibility / fixes for newer Cura versions etc.? I typically have issues to find such information in this gigantic thread when I need it ... 🙂
  2. That seems to be the core of the issue: https://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=35689 The video capture runs into a bandwidth issue resulting in a timeout. Will try these settings and report. Update: When running these command I get "device busy", now trying the .conf variant: https://stackoverflow.com/questions/25619309/how-do-i-enable-the-uvc-quirk-fix-bandwidth-quirk-in-linux-uvc-driver Update 2: That parameter did not help, timeout still happening. Update 3: It seems the uvcvideo driver is dying. Even if I just open the camera stream in a browser it dies / blacks out after a few minutes. That's surely the issue. Now to be found out why that happens. The sys log shows: Update 4: Finding discussions that point towards the problem disappearing in newer kernels. I am working on upgrading the Raspbian version now. Update 5: Upgrade Raspbian to the latest (Stretch) and it still happens.
  3. I think I found the reason for the extrusion stopping. Rarely the image capture seems to take 5 seconds, which - according to some research - could actually be a timeout value of the image capturing. And if that happens it seems that the printer is stopping the extruder heating as there are no new commands coming. Analyzing the Octolapse log file revealed that there seems to be a coincidence of this timeout and the target temperature of the extruder going to zero, which later results in these „cold extrusion prevented“ messages by the printer, once the actual temperature of the printer gets below 170 C. Now I need to find out why the image capture rarely produces a timeout...
  4. First try: A few issues: The print didn't work out really well, but I didn't care about the parameters too much... And the camera resolution is set to 640x480 by OctoPrint resp. OctoPi by default I disovered, though the camera is a full HD one. You set it in /boot/octoprint.txt, took me a while to find that place. And then at some point the extrusion stopped and the nozzle cooled down, that I need to research. I think that's an issue of the Octolapse G-Code mods and side-effects if not parameterized correctly.
  5. Would you share prints you made with it?
  6. After reading this post and what OctoLapse does I liked it so much that I had put it on the „want to try some day“ project list. Bought a nice HD webcam for that and gave it a try yesterday. Now printing an Eiffel Tower that I don’t need, but it just looks good in time lapse 🙂 To get Octolapse to run was not much effort, most importantly it needs some settings for the printer profile. I simply renamed one for Marlin into UM2 and gave it parameters to the best of my knowledge. Now there is some „position tracking“ error from Octolapse int the beginning, but it seems to work anyway as far as I can tell from a video created from a 20mins test piece. And in the serial connection log I find error messages about „avoided cold extrusion“ or something. It seems Octolapse wants to do retractions when it places the head for the shot, but uses the wrong command for this. For now it seems to work ok without retraction, but I haven’t looked at the print yet, maybe it’s full of ugly blobs. So that’s the two issues to resolve for now, the position thing and the retraction. Will look into that the next days.
  7. Great discussion. I have recently bought PTFE tubes from 3D Solex: http://3dsolex.com/product/bowden-tube-clips/ Installed 1 so far and - without testing it systematically - I have the impression that feeding issues are gone that I had before. I would be interested in hearing about your experiences with the PTFE tube.
  8. Fantastic!! The cabinet solved my issues with ABS. Here's a picture of yesterday's test with ABS, it's a mount for a 50W LED with heatsink (for that ABS to survive some heat) with 11cm in diameter that about a year ago I tried print in ABS like 5 times with different settings and never go it to work without severe delamination issues. Never had that quality of print with ABS!! Back then I had the printer in a repurposed bar cabinet in the living room (also for the noise) and the only variant that worked slightly better with ABS was to add a heater blower to the cabinet that generated some 40 C of temperature. Then the delamination was much better, but not gone, the object still unusable, mechanically not solid. I think the reason being that this cabinet was not air tight and the heater blower created some air movement causing some unwanted cooling on the print. For these reasons I never used my ~10 spools of ABS, any larger object failed. Now it worked on the first try. I switched off the ventilation fan and put some cardboard on top of the fan box to also suppress any thermic escape of heat. The temperature moved up to ~40 degrees in the cabinet (36 bottom, 44 on top) and stayed there.
  9. Currently the inlet is without fan. But I designed the inlet holes so that I could put a fan there. The last results showed: no need to do so. But who knows - maybe next summer if the office has 28 C I want to put a fan there to push the temperature even lower. I had to decide between a large slit of 10-11.000mm^2, like i had it in the carton door. But I voted for the holes and for just the amount that are needed for a 120mm fan because the larger any kind of opening there, the more noise can escape the cabinet. So I thought about rather having a few holes and put a push-in fan there than to create a large opening - in the end the key purpose of the cabinets is to keep the noise inside.
  10. Success - the 16dB low noise fan with 1,7 mm H2O pressure and 80 m^3/h airflow is enough! Temperature the same and stable for long term prints. Dotted lines are last test with the more powerful fan. Problem resolved, project "cabinet" done, printers "in production" again.
  11. Test successful, the temperatures behave exactly as before. See diagram. In terms of openings I have now: - bottom / inlet: 57 holes of 10mm which results in a opening area of 4.500 mm^2 - top / outlet: 3 holes of 45mm = ~4.800mm^2 - as a reference: a 120mm fan has an area of 11.300mm^2, so inlet/outlet are about half of that area Next test: use quieter fan, the BeQuiet Silent Wings 3 one with 30% less pressure/airflow but only 16 dB of noise.
  12. Octolapse is a Octoprint plugin that hooks into the „gcode stream“ of octoprint and modifies it slightly to move the head to a certain position between layers to take the picture.
  13. Laser cut a drilling template and did some drilling for a few hours - 57 holes through 19mm MDF is quite time consuming. Also added a 3rd hole on the top side (not on the photo, did that later). As a first version of the bottom holes I did shape the area of a 120mm fan, which results in 57 holes and 4.500 mm^2 of opening, which is half of what a 120mm fan has. The idea is: if the airflow is enough with that, without a fan, I am happy and it's done. If the airflow is not enough I can choose to either drill more holes (2-3 times as many) or add a fan on the bottom side of the cabinet to push air in. While the 2nd fan on top pulls the air out. Resulting in twice the pressure and probably enough airflow. Another print test to check "level 1" of the above is running just now.
  14. Started another 10 hours print right after this one to see if the temperature stays stable in the long term. And it does, even after 7 more hours the temp stays at these values. Interesting that you can see that I lowered the extruder temperature to 190 C instead of 200 C - the temperature in the cabinet decreases by 0,5 C. Summary for all who want to build something like this: 120mm fan with high static pressure (3mm H20 = 30Pa) on top of the cabinet. I used this: https://www.bequiet.com/de/casefans/270 2,5-3mm H2O of pressure are the ones with the highest available in the regular PC fans area. There is just industrial ones like this with >7 mm H2O: https://noctua.at/de/nf-f12-industrialppc-3000-pwm But they have 40dB. Inlet and outlet holes of at least 4.000mm^2. One of them larger, more in the area of the fan >10.000mm^2. Ideally inlet/outlet would be the same area the fan has = 10.000-11.000mm^2, but my experiment shows that either inlet of half or outlet of half are already working. But both half or less does not work, that were my earlier experiments. Inlet/outlet ideally positioned diagonally across the box, i.e. in at the front, out at the back, to ensure flow across the hole cabinet I thought a moment about retrying the 2 50mm fans. But if you compare their technical data to the 120mm, they are too weak to achieve the same result and temperature will be higher: Air flow: 120mm: 120m^3/h 2x50mm: 23m^3/h Static pressure: 120mm: 2,7mm H20 2x50mm: 1,2mm H20 120mm: https://www.bequiet.com/de/casefans/270 50mm: https://www.blacknoise.com/datas/downloads/datasheets/TData_BSF50_122012_de_en.pdf Both are silent fans, the 120mm produces 29dB and the 50mm only 16dB of noise. I think I will try another one of Bequiet with 16 dB next that has half the RPM and some 30% less static pressue and airflow, but still much more than the 50mm. https://www.bequiet.com/de/casefans/718
  15. Now we're getting there!! In the diagram you see the test with the fan "off" as dashed lines and the newest one with the carton door with ventilation slit as solid lines. Now the "exhaust" cabinet where the heat is pulled to goes 2 degrees above the printer cabinet, the printer cabinet stabilizes at 28 C and the 2nd extruder (which reflects the top of the inside of the cabinet) is at a max of 32 C - which is almost 6 C lower than before. The exhaust line is now above the cabinet line which means there is more heat pulled outside than stays inside - that's perfect. So clearly the air inlet is the most important bottleneck for now and is way too small, I need to drill additional holes into the bottom and then it works as it does here and absolutely hits the goal that I was planning for - to stay around 30 C. The area of the carton slit is some 20x530mm = 10.600mm^2. If I use 500mm of the width to drill a grid of 10mm holes with 10mm space in between I get 16 holes in each row. And I need 4 rows to meet a total of 11.300 mm^2 - that's what I am going to do tomorrow.
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