Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by conny_g

  1. Unfortunately I did not continue with that project back then. Work and other projects so it got stuck there. Generally worked little on electronics projects so that also the need for the solution was less. So I did not notice that the project is stuck 🙂
  2. As far as I know the extrusion stepper is not the same, it is step angle 1,8 degrees while the axis motors are 0,9 degrees. And I think it’s worth to recover the printer. Would you buy it used with this „mileage“ but working it would surely still cost 500+ Euros and there would be some maintenance of belts etc required. I am sure you can get it working for less than 500 Euros and a few 10 hours of work.
  3. Upper left was chosen to reuse the holes there, as UM2+ does not have the 2nd feeder mounting holes. You can mount it at the same height as the 1st feeder on the opposite site if you want, there is no reason against that.
  4. I have: Kp 8.5 Ki 0.75 Kd 45 I remember I spent some 2 hours on figuring out how it works best. The autotune parameters were not as good. I have a 50W heater in the hotend and it used to overshoot significantly with the autotune parameters.
  5. Ah. Then I was confusing the tinker version with the Mark 2 version.
  6. This adjusts the z position of the currently active extruder. So if you want to adjust it for the 2nd extruder, you need to activate it and then go to z adjust.
  7. Tinkergnome has added a power budget feature that allows to limit / prioritize the power usage between bed and the heads. With that I think it's not necessary to change the power supply. But it's also possible to upgrade the power supply. I have done that and I have used this: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/Top-Qualit-t-24-V-15A-3D-Prnter-Ultimaker2-Netzteil-F-r-Ultimaker-2-UM2-Erweiterte/32832288123.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.77204c4dDxlATR LOL, the 35W heater has 10W more power. SCNR. It has lower resistance, draws higher current so it heats up more. It gets the sa
  8. Not recommended to do dual printing this way. The reason is: If it's manufactured perfectly the nozzles are on the same height. But that's not good because your 2nd nozzle will ooze on your print while the 1st is printing and vice versa. For this reason all dual head concept work with two heads or with a lifting mechanism for the unused nozzle. And likely the two nozzles of this head have a slightly different height and that's even worse. Because then the lower nozzle would actually end vertically "in" your print and scratch it during printing.
  9. No suggestions needed. The first setup for UM2 is not special in any way. And the camera issue (capture timing out) is not related to Octolapse, it’s something between camera driver and the image capturing (kernel?) framework.
  10. Thanks for your feedback, that confirms and extends what I have learnt about accuracy the last days. I agree that it seems best to give it the final perfection by adjusting the e-steps. Just trying that to tune that a little bit with every new piece. In the last iteration the difference between the lego pimples was already much less, having increased the e-steps by 2%.
  11. Hi there, I am currently printing a series of lego base plates for my kids and ran into an interesting observation: The "pimples" need to very accurate 4.8mm for the lego bricks to stick well but not too much. It's sensitive to 0,1mm deviation, if they are 4.7xmm the bricks are too loose, if they are > 4.85mm they are too tight (and will rip off the pimples when removing them) or won't fit on at all (approaching 4,9mm). I spent some time to find the sweet spot for two UM2+ with Bondtech extruders and 3D Solex Race block + nozzles in terms of extrusion calibration, temperat
  12. Not yet, but I have a Duet board waiting for a test. And then I will find out how Mark2 is to be implemented with that. But I think it will be 1-2 months until I get to try that.
  13. When switching heads the unused one goes to stand-by temperature, the active is heating up to print temperature. Is it that what you mean?
  14. In another iteration I find - or better: I am reminded - that temperature is a key issue influencing the extrusion quality. In hindsight not surprising really, I should know. But it seems I forgot by developing bad "standard procedure" habits. After dialling the temperature up another 15 C the striping disappeared completely and the dimensional accuracy is now perfect. While in the last round the stripes were much better and the dimensions of my lego struts 0.2mm too small. I went up from 190 C to 215 C now. I wasn't aware that the ideal temperature differs that much betwe
  15. After doing all this - cleaning drive gears, adjusting tension carefully, recalibrating the bed and increasing the print temperature slightly (for 0.2mm +10C seems reasonable, could also pay into this) - it's much better, actually totally acceptable. The stripes still can be seen a little. But now looking at the other printer - where I haven't noticed that issue yet - I find that these minimal stripes are visible too. So possible some form of this inconsistent extrusion on a large areas does possibly always exist, but is not relevant in most situations... I need to check the bottom
  16. It seems I was on a wrong track and it’s not the motor! Looks like it’s simply grinding / slipping of the filament due to too much pressure on the first layer! After swapping the motor I noticed signs of the stripes again on the start of the first layer and took down the build plate a fraction of a turn of the adjustment screw and it got much better. The pattern is still visible now, but only a little and I am convinced that’s just dirt in the drive wheel. Thinking about how I got there I find that there’s probably two reasons for that. First I had
  17. Bondtech responds upon describing the issue to them: I'll take the motor apart tonight and have a look. I'll swap motors and retest tonight and check the possibly defect motor. I don't think it's nozzle temp. 1) it's too regular "in sync" with the rotation of the drive wheel 2) Why would that problem start now and I have never seen this before. Only if something changed or if a compontent on the mainboard went defect. Well... possible, but for me rather unlikely. But never say never. Let me do the test with the motors first, then let's see.
  18. I have now moved the gripper wheels of the right / second extruder to the left / first. And I got a surprising result: I get the same inconsistent extrusion pattern! See cam screenshot. So it’s not the drive gears, it’s the motor gear or the motor. If I seem to have observed that it’s in sync with one turn of the drive gear then it could not be the motor, given the motor turns 5 times as fast. The pattern would need to be much more dense if it related to one turn of the motor. But to verify I could try a quick calculation how much material one turn of the
  19. Um. Thinking out loudly. I am currently printing the same file with the same setting and the same filament on two printers of the same hardware, so I am quite sure that it’s not a software issue. Or I would see it on the other printer, too. But the hint with the geared motor is a good one. It leaves the gripper wheel or it’s drive wheel as last point of failure. So I should swap the grippers between the two extruders and see what happens.
  20. I am struggling with one of my printer the last days. It keeps printing in bad quality with periodic underextrusion. After switching nozzles, taking the print head apart and cleaning it and switching between different filaments I can rule out head / hotend and filament. So I turned to the extruder today, it’s a Bondtech QR (https://www.bondtech.se/en/product/qr/) I am quite happy with for two years. I disassembled it and cleaned it, though there was not much dirt. Also I could not see any mechanical defect or wear. Remounted it and still there is this periodic undere
  21. Yes, I use it for my "Magnetic Tool Changer" modded UM2+. Which can use a bit more power as you have two hotends and in my case even two with higher power of 50W each. The plug is identical, so it's a drop-in replacement. So far I haven't noticed any quality issues.
  • Create New...