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conny_g

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Everything posted by conny_g

  1. It’s the UM holes I cut out and both do fit, the UM holder and the iRobert one.
  2. Yes, that's the mount of the UM2 spool holder, so you can put any holder that fits this. And yes, it's iRobert's spool holder, one of the long versions, 80 or 90mm. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/low-friction-um2-spoolholder
  3. I designed and I am using this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2183950
  4. You are right, you need a nozzle for 1.75. Otherwise the filament would be pressed upwards again and build out a big blob between bowden tube and nozzle, which you can't remove anymore as the blob is thicker than the bowden (given that's changed to 1.75).
  5. The oozing issue of the blue filament could also be a temperature overshoot when heating up the new active nozzle. Using OctoPrint I have noticed that hotends tend to overshoot 10-20C on heatup and it takes 15-30s to get back down. A prime tower also helps this issue as the head will print the tower for 10s instead of your model and it has time to get down to the right temperature. The oozing happens at the prime tower instead then. But in fact different filaments have different viscosities (is that written correctly? Looks strange) and not only the optimum printing temp, that could differ 10-20C, but also the curve how fast they become liquid. I have one PLA that I can’t print with higher temp for higher speed because when setting it 10-20C C higher it’s to liquid to print nicely and oozes. So it might be both for you. Overshoot and 10C too much temperature.
  6. I have now ordered Duet3D Duet 2 1.04 Wifi Board and two PT100 adapters (for 2 extruders) and hope to have the time in the next months to convert one of my printers. Yes, months... too much work, too many projects, currently. 😞
  7. My learning in above mentioned thread was that you need the ventilation of a powerful (= high static pressure) 120mm fan. If you drill holes in the circle of 120mm the net opening is like 35-40% of the area of the 120mm fan, that's enough. 120mm circle: 60^2 x pi = 11.309 square millimeters. 60 holes of 10mm (= 78 square mm) = 4.680 sq mm or 41%. If the vent opening is much smaller on one side (in or out) then the airflow is not enough to keep the temperature < 30C , temperature rises, PLA gets soft, feeder jams. And obviously there could be problems with motors heating too much or the electronics as well. I have done a test with ABS where the cabinet temperature reached 40 C and that was ok, though.
  8. @neotko @tinkergnome Thank you! I think now my concerns / uncertainties are flushed out and my curiosity rises and I feel like ordering a duet board to put next to the printer for the mod as soon as I have time for it. Regarding power, I have upgraded my two printers to a 15A PSU from Aliexpress, not having any issues with printer crashes any more, although I have the power budget set to 350W. So I think that’s not an issue.
  9. What kind of issues do you have when wanting / trying to print something? Just go ahead and tackle every symptom you experience and after a few rounds of doing so your printer will be plug & play. For most issues you will find resolution paths here in the forum.
  10. Stronger grip due to two grip wheels, better/sharper teeth. And I remember I thought the sound was more pleasant. But that's 2 years ago or something, not completely sure about that.
  11. @neotko Currently using the tinker firmware. How does that compare with the duet firmware? And I use the magnetic tool changer dual mod, is that possible with the duet firmware and how do I implement it there, you mentioned macros?
  12. Could we add a blog / news section on magnetictoolchanger.com where we collect this info about compatibility / fixes for newer Cura versions etc.? I typically have issues to find such information in this gigantic thread when I need it ... ?
  13. That seems to be the core of the issue: https://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=35689 The video capture runs into a bandwidth issue resulting in a timeout. Will try these settings and report. Update: When running these command I get "device busy", now trying the .conf variant: https://stackoverflow.com/questions/25619309/how-do-i-enable-the-uvc-quirk-fix-bandwidth-quirk-in-linux-uvc-driver Update 2: That parameter did not help, timeout still happening. Update 3: It seems the uvcvideo driver is dying. Even if I just open the camera stream in a browser it dies / blacks out after a few minutes. That's surely the issue. Now to be found out why that happens. The sys log shows: Update 4: Finding discussions that point towards the problem disappearing in newer kernels. I am working on upgrading the Raspbian version now. Update 5: Upgrade Raspbian to the latest (Stretch) and it still happens.
  14. I think I found the reason for the extrusion stopping. Rarely the image capture seems to take 5 seconds, which - according to some research - could actually be a timeout value of the image capturing. And if that happens it seems that the printer is stopping the extruder heating as there are no new commands coming. Analyzing the Octolapse log file revealed that there seems to be a coincidence of this timeout and the target temperature of the extruder going to zero, which later results in these „cold extrusion prevented“ messages by the printer, once the actual temperature of the printer gets below 170 C. Now I need to find out why the image capture rarely produces a timeout...
  15. First try: A few issues: The print didn't work out really well, but I didn't care about the parameters too much... And the camera resolution is set to 640x480 by OctoPrint resp. OctoPi by default I disovered, though the camera is a full HD one. You set it in /boot/octoprint.txt, took me a while to find that place. And then at some point the extrusion stopped and the nozzle cooled down, that I need to research. I think that's an issue of the Octolapse G-Code mods and side-effects if not parameterized correctly.
  16. After reading this post and what OctoLapse does I liked it so much that I had put it on the „want to try some day“ project list. Bought a nice HD webcam for that and gave it a try yesterday. Now printing an Eiffel Tower that I don’t need, but it just looks good in time lapse ? To get Octolapse to run was not much effort, most importantly it needs some settings for the printer profile. I simply renamed one for Marlin into UM2 and gave it parameters to the best of my knowledge. Now there is some „position tracking“ error from Octolapse int the beginning, but it seems to work anyway as far as I can tell from a video created from a 20mins test piece. And in the serial connection log I find error messages about „avoided cold extrusion“ or something. It seems Octolapse wants to do retractions when it places the head for the shot, but uses the wrong command for this. For now it seems to work ok without retraction, but I haven’t looked at the print yet, maybe it’s full of ugly blobs. So that’s the two issues to resolve for now, the position thing and the retraction. Will look into that the next days.
  17. Great discussion. I have recently bought PTFE tubes from 3D Solex: http://3dsolex.com/product/bowden-tube-clips/ Installed 1 so far and - without testing it systematically - I have the impression that feeding issues are gone that I had before. I would be interested in hearing about your experiences with the PTFE tube.
  18. Fantastic!! The cabinet solved my issues with ABS. Here's a picture of yesterday's test with ABS, it's a mount for a 50W LED with heatsink (for that ABS to survive some heat) with 11cm in diameter that about a year ago I tried print in ABS like 5 times with different settings and never go it to work without severe delamination issues. Never had that quality of print with ABS!! Back then I had the printer in a repurposed bar cabinet in the living room (also for the noise) and the only variant that worked slightly better with ABS was to add a heater blower to the cabinet that generated some 40 C of temperature. Then the delamination was much better, but not gone, the object still unusable, mechanically not solid. I think the reason being that this cabinet was not air tight and the heater blower created some air movement causing some unwanted cooling on the print. For these reasons I never used my ~10 spools of ABS, any larger object failed. Now it worked on the first try. I switched off the ventilation fan and put some cardboard on top of the fan box to also suppress any thermic escape of heat. The temperature moved up to ~40 degrees in the cabinet (36 bottom, 44 on top) and stayed there.
  19. Currently the inlet is without fan. But I designed the inlet holes so that I could put a fan there. The last results showed: no need to do so. But who knows - maybe next summer if the office has 28 C I want to put a fan there to push the temperature even lower. I had to decide between a large slit of 10-11.000mm^2, like i had it in the carton door. But I voted for the holes and for just the amount that are needed for a 120mm fan because the larger any kind of opening there, the more noise can escape the cabinet. So I thought about rather having a few holes and put a push-in fan there than to create a large opening - in the end the key purpose of the cabinets is to keep the noise inside.
  20. Success - the 16dB low noise fan with 1,7 mm H2O pressure and 80 m^3/h airflow is enough! Temperature the same and stable for long term prints. Dotted lines are last test with the more powerful fan. Problem resolved, project "cabinet" done, printers "in production" again.
  21. Test successful, the temperatures behave exactly as before. See diagram. In terms of openings I have now: - bottom / inlet: 57 holes of 10mm which results in a opening area of 4.500 mm^2 - top / outlet: 3 holes of 45mm = ~4.800mm^2 - as a reference: a 120mm fan has an area of 11.300mm^2, so inlet/outlet are about half of that area Next test: use quieter fan, the BeQuiet Silent Wings 3 one with 30% less pressure/airflow but only 16 dB of noise.
  22. Octolapse is a Octoprint plugin that hooks into the „gcode stream“ of octoprint and modifies it slightly to move the head to a certain position between layers to take the picture.
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