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Everything posted by conny_g

  1. Oh. I am using EXP3 for the sync signal of my UV laser exposure solution.... ? It's not needed at the same time, though. So I could switch between the two somehow, in the firmware and in hardware. If the flow sensor can handle (ignore) an "incoming" signal, then I can switch the port to output instead of input and it would just work, without any extra hardware required.
  2. PCB holder mount on an acrylic build plate replacement is done. I can now just swap the glass into the acrylic plate and start to drill. Have done this for the UV laser exposure solution, too - if the measurements of the "build plate" is accurate there is actually little tolerance in the placement of the frame/holder. For the exposure plate it's only some 0,5mm I usually need to correct the home position and also just 0,5-1mm in angle error for the 160mm PCB length. It's laser cut from scrap pieces of acrylic. Bottom side transparent 2mm, top side white 2mm, glued together. Resulting in the 4mm height also the glass plate has. So the glass plate mount works for this plate, too. Melted thread inserts into the bottom of the PCB holder and cut a larger hole in the lower side acrylic so that the holder can be screwed from the bottom with the screw head countersunk into the acrylic. That's the core reason for using the 2 layers of acrylic - aside of looking nice (could have used 4mm plywood, too) I can countersink the screw. Now there is some more software work to do for the calibration process (home position, angle error). And to enable multiple copies on one Euro PCB. The exposure scripts can do that to multiply the PNG export from eagle and position it X/Y multiple times, but the drill script currently only uses the one set of hole coordinates exported from eagle.
  3. Yes, that makes sense, thank you!
  4. Works better than expected. PCB is held in grooves 5-6mm above the T-nut plate, so the drill will not hurt the plate if calibrated correctly.
  5. @tinkergnome Is it possible to view / set the values you can mod via the UM2 display / scroll wheel also via gcode? I am using Octoprint to control / Monitor the printers and have a need to set / reset these mods remotely. Example: I started a print and tuned the parameters during the first layers, like more/less temp, lower/higher speed. These mods are saved by the tinker firmware, like +5 temperature, 80% speed. Next time I start a print job remotely I correct these parameters right in Cura and want to reset them in the printer. Can I do that with G-Code?
  6. Prototype of a PCB holder plate is printing. Based on T-nut system. Inspired by https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2202041, but trying to do it less complex/massive. Actual T-nut holder in design process, possibly printing that later today. Will get mounted on a laser cut UM2 printbed sized acrylic plate in two layers to achieve the 4-5mm of thickness and holes for the screw heads on the bottom side.
  7. Short: it works! I killed one drill bit with a wrong height setting (the very big hole front left, the drill is still in there...), the 2nd try worked. Less than 2mins for 35 holes and the dirt/dust is rather limited, took 30 seconds to remove that with a hand vac. Still would add a vac tube to the drill holder later. Now I need a proper PCB holder that can quickly be mounted to the build plate and some calibration procedure to set the drill height quickly each time and to map the hole coordinates to the actual place of the PCB. The idea is to position the drill to two diagonal corners, use controls to correct/adjust the drill position and then use that offset to remap the coordinates.
  8. After redoing the Dremel side mounting plate so that the magnets stand out more and can touch the head side plate magnets it holds quite well. I can press from the bottom straight up with some 2-3kg of force and the Dremel does not move at all. Promising. So I have now found a simple script converting Eagle drill files to CNC g-code (https://github.com/kdupreez/excellon2gcode) and modified it to generate UM2 g-code and interpret the coordinates correctly. The first dry runs on basis of a real PCB layout look good, see video. Tomorrow I will test with real PCB and drill ? Of course the Z speed/feedrate is now set higher to see better what happens through the camera (not at the printer at the moment, just observing it through the web cam). For the real drilling this should probably be slower at first. And I am ignoring tool changes at the moment, that's next in the script after the actual drill test succeded.
  9. Yes, that’s to be tested if this kind of mount holds that. I wanted to try the magnetic mount first as the magnetic plate is already on the head. But of course there’d be other possibilities. As the Dremel does not need automatic docking and undocking there could be some „nose“ or „edge“ taking the vertical forces instead of the magnets. From manual drilling of PCBs I know that the perfect-quality drills need little force in and out. While other drills can be a bit nasty. Bed leveling: I was planning for air below the PCB or some wood panel ? Yes, I‘ll see how much dust there is and I planned to mount a small vacuum nozzle as well. Manual drilling of PCBs actually doesn‘t cause too much dirt, was not planning to use it as CNC...
  10. Wanted to try that for a long time, now at least the mount is ready: Dremel flex extension mounted on the UM2+ head using the magnetic mounting plate of the Mark2 dual extruder project. Currently printing a modification of the plate (needs to be 2mm thicker and the magnets are too far in, used a version of the file that had this "bug" for the plate), then I will write a g-code generation script for drilling and test it. Depends on the pressure required for drilling if that's going to work, the mount will not withstand very much pressure, maybe some more once the magnets stand a bit more out so the magnets of the plate on the head the plate on the drill can physically touch - currently they are like 0,5-1mm apart and the force is significantly reduced.
  11. Thanks! Looks like that board has a few minor changes vs 2.1.4. Exp3 / PB7 is unchanged.
  12. You can use the pid tune feature of the firmware, if UMO has that. It will calm down the „curve“ and avoid overshoots, the print temp will be more stable.
  13. It seems that you need to configure the G-Code to switch a pin in the plugins config: https://github.com/Pheneeny/CuraPlugin-EnclosureFan/blob/master/EnclosureFan.py In Marlin firmware you can use M42 to switch a board pin. I don’t own a UM3, but I think that the UM2.1.4 board is still used for motion control. so you can check the circuit for a pin to use here https://raw.githubusercontent.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/master/1091_Main_board_v2.1.1_(x1)/Main Board V2.1.1.pdf For example use header Exp3 and Pin PB7. Find the position on the board drawing in the same PDF. Then look up the arduino pin mapping for the PIN number to use for the M42 command. The Ultimaker board is essentially a nicer Arduino Mega 2560. https://www.arduino.cc/en/Hacking/PinMapping2560 PB7 is pin #13. So try M42 P13 S255 for on and M42 P13 S0 for off.
  14. I think the fan currents are less than 100mA and thus only small transistors are used there. How much current / voltage does your valve need?
  15. Bed leveling: Try to do the regular single head leveling first, then switch to head 2 and do the z offset calibration only for that. For the crashing into dock change the wipe position Y offset to about 45.
  16. Afaik you need to change that in the firmware. It’s open source, are you able to do that?
  17. That makes sense! Thanks for your exhaustive input. I have not too much need to print beyond 250/260 degrees currently. It would not be worth on compromising on the non-stickiness. I was just looking for something universal that would cover higher temperatures and last long. But it seems the TFM / PTFE is already a reasonable compromise. So I think I'll remove the I2Ks and otherwise stay with the TFM/PTFE couplers.
  18. I think this is an issue I am having, I have underextrusion issues lately and well posssible that this is the actual reason. Can't tell if the underextrusion happens mainly with PLA, but I am printing PLA 75% of the time. Though it was the nozzles in service for longer, but I should try to remove the I2Ks. The any other material than PTFE doesn't make sense if this is the only one PLA doesn't stick to. So in this case rather accept the wear than have underextrusion...
  19. I have all my head with the i2k and the corresponding coupler of 3DSolex. But it seems that the PBI can handle even higher temperatures and would not need the I2K. But of course if PLA sticks to it that would be bad.
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