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rowiac last won the day on February 11

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About rowiac

  • Birthday 03/17/1962


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  1. Cura vs Simplify3D

    Indeed, Cura being free is a huge benefit. In my opinion, it's easier to set up for your printer, although once you have S3D set up, it's pretty easy to use as well. In my experience, S3D is a bit better with support in that it's easier to remove and leaves a cleaner surface. I haven't tried all the settings in Cura, however. I am just talking about the default support settings. Cura does better brims, although I think the latest version of S3D has improved that. One big advantage of S3D is the ability to customize support. I hope Cura gets this feature someday, and then I probably would just use Cura all the time. I recommend you use Cura and become familiar with 3D printing first, and if you want to try more complicated settings later you can try S3D.
  2. Ultimaker Original - dual extrusion

    @TheSeend Nice print! Can you give some more details about your modification to the print head? Are the extra nuts and washers to allow you to adjust the vetical positions of the two nozzles separately?
  3. Cura 3.2 printing above bed

    This is a slicer-specific behavior. By default, Cura starts quite a way above the bed (maybe 20mm?) in the home position and extrudes a blob to prime the nozzle. Then it moves in x, y and z simultaneously to get to the bed and start printing. By doing this it is stretching the filament out to a fine string and essentially getting the prime blob out of the way. Personally, I like this behavior of Cura and have tried to replicate it in Simplify3D, but haven't spent enough time to get the starting gcode right.
  4. I use an old version of Cura (v15.04.6) to do bed leveling. I haven't tried the newest version for leveling, but I like how the old version draws a large square on the plate to check the leveling after you have set the 3 points. Assuming you are using PLA, try increasing your nozzle temperature to 200°C and set your initial layer height to 0.3mm, which is the default for Cura. Thicker initial layers are more forgiving of sub-optimal bed leveling. Once I have the bed leveled properly, I try not to manhandle the build plate too much removing prints, etc. just to make sure I don't disturb the setting. Usually I can go a long time before I need to level it again, although eventually the nozzle tip wears or something else will cause it to need re-leveling.
  5. @gr5 It seems as though PETG is missing from these charts, unless it's there with some other name. I recently purchased a spool of it to try and was wondering how it stacked up against other materials. Great job on this by the way.
  6. Look here for all of the parts information for the UMO+: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker-Original-Plus Once you find the part you need, look at the drawing (PDF) for the material. Do a Google search if the material spec is not obvious. For the dimensions, open the STEP file in any CAD program (SolidWorks, Inventor, Fusion360, OnShape, etc.) and you can measure all of the features. The part you are looking for is B1818-B Print Table Base Plate.
  7. Replacement of UMO+ Feeder

    Try this for the teflon coupler (be sure to select 3mm), although again, I don't about the quality and longevity of these parts. Here's another example of a PEEK isolator:
  8. Replacement of UMO+ Feeder

    You can get pretty much any part for the Ultimakers on AliExpress. I don't know about the quality, however, and shipping can take a long time, at least to the US. The PEEK isolator is on there, but delivery time is up to 20 days.
  9. You can find the drawing and CAD model for this part on GitHub in the Ultimaker section. The Ultimaker part number for this part is B 1048-A2P-A "Print Head Hot End Holder". The material listed on the drawing is aluminum alloy EN AW-6060 T66 which is similar to 6061-T6. If you open the STEP file with any CAD program, you will be able to measure all of the part's dimensions. The holes you are referring to are 14.0mm in diameter with 0.5mm x 45° chamfers on both sides.
  10. Replacement of UMO+ Feeder

    I did have one problem with my UMO+ feeder that I just remembered. The black plastic roller that press-fits over the ball bearing became deformed and wasn't feeding the filament evenly. I replaced the plastic part with a ball bearing that fit over the existing bearing and the problem was gone. Since the ball bearing is made of metal, it should last a very long time.
  11. Replacement of UMO+ Feeder

    You'll need to design an adapter for it, something like this but for that particular feeder. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2723124 There would also be a firmware change needed to account for the different motor steps/mm on the new feeder. What is your actual problem with the UMO+ feeder? Mine works well--it's just a little noisy.
  12. @mrfunk You can get a knock-off of the sheet metal UM2 fan shroud on Aliexpress for pretty cheap. If you really want to print one, look for one that doesn't blow a lot of air directly on the nozzle, but evenly distributes airflow around it, pretty much like what @andywalter has described above.
  13. Wrong line width calculation

    I looked around in the Cura 3.1 settings for my UMO+, and I couldn't find a nozzle size setting anywhere either. I could have sworn it was there in an earlier version, but I haven't had a reason to use it yet. I have changed line width while using the standard 0.4mm nozzle, but that's a completely different thing.
  14. UMO+ product box size

    I happened to have my UMO+ box handy and measured it. It is 42.5cm x 42.5cm x 27.3cm [16.75" x 16.75" x 10.75"].
  15. 2+ front enclosure (door)

    The enclosure would be more useful for printing ABS and other materials that print at relatively high temperature and tend to warp if cooled too much during printing. With PLA, which prints at a relatively low temperature, if the build area temperature is too high, you could get heat buildup in the print head beyond the teflon heat break to the point where the filament softens and deforms, resulting in a clog and/or underextrusion. Many retractions would exacerbate this effect because of the constant pushing and pulling of the softened filament. Maybe someone else can explain it better, but that is basically my understanding of the effect.

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