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rowiac

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rowiac last won the day on November 8

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About rowiac

  • Birthday 03/17/1962

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  • Field of Work
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  1. This looks like classic under-extrusion. What printer model to you have? Make sure your feeder is not slipping and do a cold-pull to clear the hotend if necessary. Search "underextrusion" for more ideas.
  2. The link you posted looks exactly like what my UMO+ has in the hotend. Also, you may want to try the printable belt tensioners if you continue to have problems with the belts skipping teeth. And the newer UMOs (including UMO+s) have the UltiController added on, which allows you to print from an SD card. A cheaper option could be the RepRap Discount Full Graphics Controller.
  3. Make sure to heat up the hotend before you try taking it apart. I don't know how to get the heater element and thermocouple out of the block without destroying them. I probably should have used some anti-sieze compound when I assembled it--should have known with sparkplugs getting stuck in aluminum cylinder heads on VWs.
  4. The UMO feeder is actually very powerful. Its biggest drawback is the retraction noise. I like the fact that it is easy to move it by hand (rotate the large wood gear) to load filament and force out clogs. For the extruder/hotend, if you are getting clogs, you may need to replace your teflon coupler (get a TFT one from gr5) or your nozzle could be clogged. Try the ""cold pull" method first. If all you are printing is PLA, the coupler and nozzle should last a long time.
  5. The heated bed is probably the best upgrade you could have done to your UMO. Keeping it simple, I would upgrade the fan shroud to the "tapir" one you can find on YouMagine by nhfoley. I tested a few different ones on my UMO+ and found that this one works well. I felt there were too many "gotchas" with going to a dual fan setup like the UM2, but you could look into those too. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/tapir-shroud-for-ultimaker There is an upgraded feeder by bertho available on Thingiverse, if yours has the old style. The upgrade has adjustable spring tension, so you might want to look into that. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:26094 There are many more mods you could do such as GT2 belt upgrade, etc., but the two above are the important ones, in my opinion.
  6. rowiac

    Simplify3D v4.1

    S3D has that easy to remove support though, and customizable support, of course. If Cura had those, I would use it exclusively. One other thing, I like that S3D reopens with the last model and settings I worked on. It would be nice if Cura did that too, or had the option to do that.
  7. rowiac

    Car body print

    Metalman54, I looked at the STL you uploaded, and it is not "watertight", in fact Cura gives a warning about that when you load the file. So....you will either need to find another General Lee model that has already been made watertight so that it will print properly, or you will need to learn how to do that yourself--with another piece of software--before you can print it. I would suggest that you should start with some simpler models to get the hang of printing first. Try some that don't need support and that are smaller so you can print them quickly and play around with the settings in Cura. Look on Thingiverse or YouMagine for example. It looks like your printer does not have a heated bed, so you should consider using blue painter's tape on the bed so the print will stick well.
  8. rowiac

    Cura 3.4.1 adding large bottom plane

    In general that is true, but I have found that Sketchup is good for editing some STL files that have problems or are otherwise unprintable. You need to know what you are doing, however, and use plugins that check for watertightness. Also Meshmixer is good for fixing more complex STL files. That extraneous plane could have been easily removed using Meshmixer.
  9. rowiac

    UM Original+ as second device ?

    Smithy, it sounds like you got a good deal on that GO. You might try a 3D-printed extruder upgrade like the ones gr5 mentioned above before spending money on a Bondtech, but you might not even need it.
  10. rowiac

    UM Original+ as second device ?

    The UMO+ is still a really good choice as a second printer, and has a bigger build area than the UM2go. It also doesn't need upgrades like a heated bed (it already has one) or a feeder (it has a rather crude but effective feeder already). It's a kit, though, and you would need to assemble it, but the instructions are very good.
  11. rowiac

    The Clumsy Noob shows some modeling steps

    Nice work! Reminds me of a Frazetta painting. Do you add details to figures after they have been posed? It seems like it would be easier to add the details (facial features, muscles, etc.) when the figures are in a neutral position and then pose them after.
  12. Loctite 242 (blue) is for fasteners 1/4" (6mm) diameter and larger. Loctite 222 (purple) is for up to 1/4" (6mm) diameter. Using 242 on the typical Ultimaker M3 screws may cause them to be difficult to remove later.
  13. rowiac

    Cura vs Simplify3D

    Indeed, Cura being free is a huge benefit. In my opinion, it's easier to set up for your printer, although once you have S3D set up, it's pretty easy to use as well. In my experience, S3D is a bit better with support in that it's easier to remove and leaves a cleaner surface. I haven't tried all the settings in Cura, however. I am just talking about the default support settings. Cura does better brims, although I think the latest version of S3D has improved that. One big advantage of S3D is the ability to customize support. I hope Cura gets this feature someday, and then I probably would just use Cura all the time. I recommend you use Cura and become familiar with 3D printing first, and if you want to try more complicated settings later you can try S3D.
  14. rowiac

    Ultimaker Original - dual extrusion

    @TheSeend Nice print! Can you give some more details about your modification to the print head? Are the extra nuts and washers to allow you to adjust the vetical positions of the two nozzles separately?
  15. rowiac

    Cura 3.2 printing above bed

    This is a slicer-specific behavior. By default, Cura starts quite a way above the bed (maybe 20mm?) in the home position and extrudes a blob to prime the nozzle. Then it moves in x, y and z simultaneously to get to the bed and start printing. By doing this it is stretching the filament out to a fine string and essentially getting the prime blob out of the way. Personally, I like this behavior of Cura and have tried to replicate it in Simplify3D, but haven't spent enough time to get the starting gcode right.
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