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rowiac

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rowiac last won the day on November 8 2018

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About rowiac

  • Birthday 03/17/1962

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  1. Creating the mounting tab would definitely have been a lot easier in Fusion 360, since as @johnse mentioned, you could draw the profile of the tab and extrude it in one go. I have limited experience with TinkerCAD, so I thought I'd give it a try and go step by step so that a complete newbie might be able to do it. I hope it helps. @kmanstudios that's how TinkerCAD works...lots of booleans.
  2. Here's one way you could do it in TinkerCAD. The attached images apply to each step. Upload the .stl file you want to modify into TinkerCAD, then Add a cylinder next to the part and size it as necessary Add a box as shown and resize it Shift-select the cylinder and box and group them Add two cylinder holes as shown Shift-select the cylinders and the previous shape and group them to create the tab Add a cylinder hole for the mounting hole Group the hole and the tab to complete the mounting tab I hope that helps. Once you get comfortable using TinkerCAD, you should consider graduating to Fusion 360. It has a lot more capabilities. I would avoid using Sketchup because it tends to create non-watertight meshes that will cause trouble in slicing for printing.
  3. I don't know why exactly Cura is acting the way it is, but that for sure is a HUGE file. Have you thought about decimating it using a tool such as MeshLab? You probably wouldn't notice any detail loss, but you could significantly reduce the file size allowing Cura and your computer to handle it better.
  4. Is there a reason you can't export the model with support from Meshmixer as one STL file and then import that into Cura? I would think they would be aligned for sure then. Do you have "Automatically drop models to the build plate" turned off in Cura's preferences? If it's turned on, it could be inadvertently shifting your models' positions. The striping usually means that the object is too large for your printer's build area or it is located out of the build area.
  5. See this link: https://ultimaker.com/resellers/us There are no authorized resellers in the Bay Area that I know of. The closest would be MatterHackers in SoCal, otherwise there is 3DV Corp. in Portland.
  6. Yes you can. I can connect with my Win10 laptop, but typically I use an old version of Cura (15.04.6) because I like its bed leveling better than newer versions. I was also able to update the firmware using that.
  7. This looks like classic under-extrusion. What printer model to you have? Make sure your feeder is not slipping and do a cold-pull to clear the hotend if necessary. Search "underextrusion" for more ideas.
  8. The link you posted looks exactly like what my UMO+ has in the hotend. Also, you may want to try the printable belt tensioners if you continue to have problems with the belts skipping teeth. And the newer UMOs (including UMO+s) have the UltiController added on, which allows you to print from an SD card. A cheaper option could be the RepRap Discount Full Graphics Controller.
  9. Make sure to heat up the hotend before you try taking it apart. I don't know how to get the heater element and thermocouple out of the block without destroying them. I probably should have used some anti-sieze compound when I assembled it--should have known with sparkplugs getting stuck in aluminum cylinder heads on VWs.
  10. The UMO feeder is actually very powerful. Its biggest drawback is the retraction noise. I like the fact that it is easy to move it by hand (rotate the large wood gear) to load filament and force out clogs. For the extruder/hotend, if you are getting clogs, you may need to replace your teflon coupler (get a TFT one from gr5) or your nozzle could be clogged. Try the ""cold pull" method first. If all you are printing is PLA, the coupler and nozzle should last a long time.
  11. The heated bed is probably the best upgrade you could have done to your UMO. Keeping it simple, I would upgrade the fan shroud to the "tapir" one you can find on YouMagine by nhfoley. I tested a few different ones on my UMO+ and found that this one works well. I felt there were too many "gotchas" with going to a dual fan setup like the UM2, but you could look into those too. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/tapir-shroud-for-ultimaker There is an upgraded feeder by bertho available on Thingiverse, if yours has the old style. The upgrade has adjustable spring tension, so you might want to look into that. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:26094 There are many more mods you could do such as GT2 belt upgrade, etc., but the two above are the important ones, in my opinion.
  12. S3D has that easy to remove support though, and customizable support, of course. If Cura had those, I would use it exclusively. One other thing, I like that S3D reopens with the last model and settings I worked on. It would be nice if Cura did that too, or had the option to do that.
  13. Metalman54, I looked at the STL you uploaded, and it is not "watertight", in fact Cura gives a warning about that when you load the file. So....you will either need to find another General Lee model that has already been made watertight so that it will print properly, or you will need to learn how to do that yourself--with another piece of software--before you can print it. I would suggest that you should start with some simpler models to get the hang of printing first. Try some that don't need support and that are smaller so you can print them quickly and play around with the settings in Cura. Look on Thingiverse or YouMagine for example. It looks like your printer does not have a heated bed, so you should consider using blue painter's tape on the bed so the print will stick well.
  14. In general that is true, but I have found that Sketchup is good for editing some STL files that have problems or are otherwise unprintable. You need to know what you are doing, however, and use plugins that check for watertightness. Also Meshmixer is good for fixing more complex STL files. That extraneous plane could have been easily removed using Meshmixer.
  15. Smithy, it sounds like you got a good deal on that GO. You might try a 3D-printed extruder upgrade like the ones gr5 mentioned above before spending money on a Bondtech, but you might not even need it.
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