Gnevko
-
Posts
56 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Forums
Events
3D Prints
Posts posted by Gnevko
-
-
Link to printed parts: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2538598
(it will take some time to prepare all parts and infos for the publishing)
-
Danke schön ... ahh ... Thank you
I tried to make it as stable as possible. The ABS parts was designed to be very massive and printed with 0.8 nozzle, 50% infill and so on. At the moment it looks like to be stable enough... of course it will be nice to have a CNC milling machine at home ... ah dreams dreams
At the moment I am very satisfied the the result, I never saw so nice finish surfaces bevor.
Next problem zones I want to change / upgrade:
1) try to find really gut linear bearings for the printer head. At the moment I see small gaps between roads and bearings if I try to move the nozzle.
2) try to make the printer bed more stable (I think the vibration on the level changing it's a common issue on Ultimaker printers).
3) mount extruder on a wall or something like that but not directly on the printer (to avoid additional vibrations from retraction movements).
-
Hi!
For a long time I didn't write anything on this forum ... but now my project is nearing completion.
It was once Ultimaker Original Plus
Designed with Autodesk Fusion 360.
Printed with ABS (0.8 nozzle).
Link to printed parts: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2538598
-
3
-
-
Following works for me
Step 1: delete CURA.app from Programms
Step 2. empty Trash (!important!)
Step 3. Restart Mac OS X
Step 4. install CURA 2.3 again
-
oje, 18,83 € per one fan :(
-
neotko, please, can you give me a link on your fans? Thank you in advance.
-
Hi, Neotko!
It seams that CURA crashes at the beginning. It doesn't write any log files at all.
Interesting is, that with CURA 2.3 Beta I had no problems.
-
Hi,
I can't start neu CURA version (2.3 release, not betta) at all. It crashes every time by trying to start. :(
-
Could it be that the "handle part" (melted part) is slow to print so the head spends a lot of time over that position and thus melts it?
I don't think so because slicer (in this case - S3D) calculates time for whole layer and not for each perimeter. And the layers are big enough.
You do seem to have a lot of extra heat cartridge sticking out...
It's original UMO+ heat cartridge. From other side of block it stick out too. Maybe it's a good idea to take also original UMO+ heat block? but I'm not sure.
What happens if you rotate the model 180 degrees around the z axis and print again with same settings?
I will try.
-
Soo, I have already installed E3D and actually I'm satisfied with it. But what I don't understand: why one part of the thing is overheated?
Material: ABS
Speed: 60 mm/s
Nozzle: 240C
Bett: 100C
All other sides of it seem to be ok.... hm ...
-
Hi people!
maybe you know what it can be: my UMO+ start to show randomly the "Sleep" message. After that it "freezes" for a half of second (maybe a bit less) and after that it continues to print. Especial it happens if I start to print next object without turn off the printer between prints....
I search in this forum about this issue but only found 2 old posts from 2012 and 2014.
Thank you in advance!
-
Thank you for the advice!
What interesting is ... when I printed with PLA I have had no such problems. Also I will change my hot end soon /( to E3D V6 ) and additional I bought a Silicone Sock for it
may be it will also help?
-
Hi people,
I try to print with Innofil ABS (Natural) and my print results look like really dirty.
I clean the nozzle before each print but it seams not to help much. In several minutes (ok, maybe after 30 minutes or so) the nozzle looks like this again
Do I something wrong?
Print temperature: 240-250C.
Bed temperature: 95C
Thank you in advance!
-
Vielleicht zu spät aber trotzdem
Bei filamentworld.de muss man genau wissen, wohin schauen. Was links steht als DRUCKEINSTELLUNGEN Drucktemperatur: 215 – 220 °C stimmt nicht. Mann muss schon auf "Zusätzliche Informationen" gehen, und dort findet man folgendes:DRUCKTEMPERATUR: 250 – 255 °C
-
Yes, I read it but if I understood correctly, the problem with the changing of a coupler is still here. As soon I start to print with PC or ASA (required 270) the lifespan of this part will dramatically shorten ... Other point is the price. The Upgrade KIT costs something about 500Euro (!). Full assemled E3Dv6 - 67 Euro.
-
At first, thank you alot for your opinions and answers!
Is there may be other hot ends on the market or E3Dv6 is only one approved alternative?
-
One single tool or not ... but now I need change PTFE coupler every 100-200 print hours... it's no go for me.
-
hm ... you know .... compostable and durable for the usage in a greenhouse ... I think it is not the best combination
"ASA" sounds really good and costs are ok - 25 Euro for 0,75 kg ... https://www.filamentworld.de/shop/filament-3d-drucker/asa-filament-3-mm-natur/
-
1
-
-
Hi, people!
I have a small greenhouse (something like 6 m2) and of course I what to print some useful stuff for it. It can be housings for sensors, plant's support and so on.
The question is what filament is the best for those tasks? It should be UV resistent, heat-resistant (up to 80C) and of course durable. From other hand it should be easy to print (as much as possible) with UMO+.
What is your suggestion?
Thank you in advance!
-
aaaand do you have no problem with PLA? (I read in several topics on this forum that E3Dv6 is not really good choose for PLA)
-
Today I made a service for my UMO+ and ...
Should it be so?
-
Do you use 1.75 or 3 mm version? with Bowden?
-
Hi and Welcome,
According to https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/19619-ulti-evening-maintenance a PTFE coupler can last 100-50h depending on use. Also if your prints needs to be near 250C it will die quite fast.
It is also true (100-50h) for UMO+?
-
I have travel speed - 200 mm/s ... if I try to print cooler then 200C (and of course slower) I have more terrible results ... maybe PLA quality is really the reason. It's Verbatim White PLA.
Gnevko's UMO+ Small Upgrade
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
Surface finish example (ABS, printed with 0.2 mm per layer, 0.8 mm nozzle, 80 mm/s basic speed)