Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts
  • Sign Up

yvest

Member
  • Content Count

    30
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by yvest

  1. True, already thought about it, should actually print same item in couple of materials and put it outside for weeks, months, years, ... regularly taking a picture. Would be a nice test.
  2. The surface looks pretty much like PLA although printing is not exactly as easy as PLA, although would say it's easier than ABS. I did experience little warping (used adhesive spray), although not that much. The object is pretty straight so not sure how overhangs / more complex parts would go. I printed with a printing temp of 240°, build plate temp of 90° and print speed of 60mm/s. Added some pictures of the print (you might see a crack in it which has been there from the start, some screw was little too big for the hole but felt it was still ok and not worth reprinting).
  3. For many of my regular prints I'm using Makerfill PLA. It's costing 18.95EUR for a spool of 750gr and did not have any complaints so far. Not sure whether they're delivering outside of BENELUX though.
  4. When it comes to weather resistance, I really had a very good experience with ApolloX material (Formfutura). It's not available in that many colors (no bronze ? ) but in terms of weather resistance it's great. I had to print some adaptor for my video doorbell which can get heavy sun / rain / ... I first printed it with regular PLA but that didn't last for 2 weeks due to the heat. With ApolloX it's been there now for more than a year and I can say it still looks just like it was day 1.
  5. Meanwhile it also magically (unless my actions helped here) improved on my end... What I did differently: - I did a factory reset of my Ultimaker. Earlier this week, I upgraded to the latest firmware but meanwhile learned that some setting might not get applied unless you perform a factory reset. It was for sure the case for me since I couldn't select PP material after having updated my firmware (I used my own settings for bed temp / nozzle temp I had added). After factory reset, I was able to select PP material when loading - Because of the factory reset, I did have to level the bed again. Always bid of a challenge (just one more which is little too firm or one less which seems too loose ? - Loaded PP material selecting "PP" from the list of materials now I then printed it again with same Cura default settings I had before and the result is much better. Now, it's much better but it's still not as nice as printing it with PLA. I believe I read somewhere about the retraction as well so maybe something I should further look into as well. In any case, for now, for this print, I'm ok with the result.
  6. Thanks for quick feedback, hope it will at some point magically work for me as well!
  7. Did you have any further luck with printing your part with Polypropylene? I'm again also trying to print with it whereas results aren't great with default Cura settings. Adhesion is good but the print itself is just not good. Part I'm trying to print has some overhangs which I understand aren't that easy but even the first layer and plane horizontal ones seem to have issues. There also doesn't seem to be that much experience with PP in general so will be lots of trial - error I guess. In case you had any eureka moments, would appreciate sharing them. ?
  8. Sounds good! Are you only referring to the forum itself or will other sections also change? Things like the dashboard, people, ... will change as well I guess? Reason for asking is that I wonder what will happen with 3D prints and YouMagine. I must say I found that, when starting, quite confusing and I'm still somehow wondering why having 2 different (but quite similar) sections make sense. So if that's going to be more streamlined as well, I'm all for it! Good luck with all the prep work!
  9. I also had some challenges printing with PP. Overall, still don't like printing with PP but at least I got it stick to the build plate. I tried a couple of things but got best results with using adhesive spray (see picture), the one I always use, even when printing PLA. So I use the spray, have build plate adhesion and a bed temperature of 100 degrees. It does the trick for me.
  10. Version 1.0

    235 downloads

    Had some fun creating Nerf Gun accessories for my son. Designs are also available on YouMagine. Torch holder: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/nerf-torch-holder Dart holder: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/nerf-dart-holder
  11. I guess you're right to say that not many plastics (if any) survive well outside due to UV, rain, ... even so called UV-resistant stuff you buy for outside use (e.g. chairs) will wear over time. So yes, absolutely fine to reprint after some years. But I initially started with PLA and after couple of days enjoying nice outside temperatures, the whole thing warped. So then got more into the characteristics of the different materials trying to figure out what would be "best". Currently it's reprinted in ApolloX material and seems good so far although warmest days are over. TBC :-) I also did think of your suggestion making same thing in different materials and putting it outside, would indeed be a great test. Just need to think of a good object I want to put outside and make sure I take a snap every couple of weeks. :-)
  12. Version 1.0

    347 downloads

    My daughter needed some dossier holder to be used in a large drawer so I came up with this design. Nothing too special although for me it was the first multi-day print as it would take about 45 hrs to print. All went fine although I noticed at some point I was running out of filament. I quickly checked the forum trying to find best ways of changing filament during print but couldn't get quick confirmation on best possible way of doing this (all ways seem to have some pro/cons/risks of bad prints). In the end I went for "soldering" 2 filaments together. What I did (during printing): - Took off the filament spool of the holder - Took off the remaining filament of the spool - Took a new spool of filament - Made a straight cut in both filaments - Heated a soldering iron (not sure about the temp as I can't configure that, I just didn't let it completely heat up) - Put both end against the soldering iron until it melts a bit - Then quickly put both ends together - Once firm, I went with the soldering iron over it again to somehow smooth it little more From then, I just hoped it would hold, not clutter and print well. Luckily, it work pretty well. As you can see in one of the images, there is some under extrusion at some point which is for sure when the connected filament got used. But you need to look pretty close to see it so happy with the final result. Having said that, would love to hear if there are any better ways to change filament when you run out during a print.
  13. It all went very smooth without any trial and error. I literally shared my first print after I unboxed the filament. I started from an ABS profile and then adapted based on recommendations from Formfutura. As indicated on YM, I did put a door in front to maintain good temperature inside but other than that, it just worked. Meanwhile printed my second part same way and is again of equal good quality.
  14. I meanwhile printed my first part with it and shared it on YM. Initial results looks pretty good! Thanks again at Tinkergnome for the tip!
  15. Just an FYI, I've ordered this ApolloX filament from formfutura and hope to start play with it over the weekend. TBC... :-)
  16. Thanks, that seems interesting indeed. Will further explore that and if I end up buying / trying it, I'll post my experience with it! Thanks!
  17. Hello, There's a variety of materials and colors out there (especially for PLA) but the more demanding needs you have for the material (strength, heat/UV resistance, ...) the less choices you have. I'm trying to create some sort of enclosure for a videophone unit that should be capable to resist UV, (rain) water, heat (sun), ... since it will be placed outside of the front door. I created a first test print in PLA which I used for a couple of weeks but after a sunny day, that got completely warped (which I did expect, was just a test). Now I've been looking at other materials like the new Ultimaker material PP (good heat resistance up to 110) or PC (same HR) but such materials are available in limited colors (PP only transparent, PC black & white). I first thought that painting could solve that but painting these materials doesn't seem to be a trivial job. So I'm wondering whether anyone of you have experience with creating 3D printed parts for outside use or having similar requirements, including color choice (painting it)? Any thoughts / ideas would be appreciated! Thanks, Yves
  18. After printing it in PLA I decided to just start over again with CPE, all standard settings in Cura & printer, light infill, no plastic door, ... and the model came out pretty well as you can see, just with very little post-processing. So I think my experimenting with individual settings pre updating Cura/Printer wasn't a success whereas the default settings of the latest seem to be doing a pretty good job. Currently printing another model in CPE, hopefully that comes out nicely as well. Thanks again for the feedback helping me during this journey...
  19. I meanwhile tried printing the model in PLA just to see whether the model is a real challenge or it's the material / settings. When printing with PLA, default settings in Cura 2.4, it comes out very nicely, what I would expect from my printer. So it's for sure the combination of CPE/printer settings. Just a little stuck on what more I can try and there doesn't seem to be that much experience with CPE on the forum. Anyone any further thoughts? Good / bad experience with CPE? Examples of models printed with CPE & corresponding settings? Many thanks, Yves
  20. Thanks for your feedback and apologies for the confusion, I actually meant that I started from the default settings and at startup of the print, I made some changes on my Ultimaker in terms of speed and bed temp. So I've upgraded to Cura 2.4, went through Ultimaker firmware update and printed again with default settings. Also added brim. While printing I also put a "plastic door" in front (just trying) to see if that helped. The result is somehow better but still not yet up to my expectations. Especially the start of the bridging didn't go very well. Any further thoughts? Many thanks, Yves
  21. I just finished printing my first part in Ultimaker CPE but it doesn't look good at all. Used the default settings in CURA and based on some of the guidelines I read, I also increased heated bed to 70 degrees and lowered speed to 70%. Yet, results aren't there. I believe the design should be feasible but for some reason it's not printing well. Any suggestions on what I should try next? Many thanks! Yves [/media]
  22. Version 1.0

    995 downloads

    I thought I could save some space on the desk of my daughter with putting the desk lamp on top of the Sonos speaker. You can't put something on it without blocking the buttons so I created this.
  23. The shop where I bought my UM2+ recommended those filaments from Polymaker so I started with almost all colors from Polymaker having Polyplus as well as Polyflex. I only started printing recently so don't have much to compare with. I can only say it's definitely producing decent prints. At least, the Polyplus because the Polyflex is totally different. I might not yet have found the most ideal settings (50mm/s, 225°) but to me it seems that has some limitations. You cannot use support very well because it just doesn't break well from the object you're printing. Any slight overhang is not printed nicely and that's the same for other details. I'm enclosing couple of pictures where white is Polyplus and black is the Polyflex. Rest of the settings are equal except for temperature which is higher for the Polyflex. Would love to hear from others their experience with Polyflex or other flex in general.
  24. I agree with IRobertl that a bit more info would be helpful :-) but looking at the picture I wonder whether you might have some floating layers in your design making the printer print in the air. It might be just 1-2mm which is not supported making the filament not stick to the layer and getting all over the place. More info will for sure bring us closer to a solution. Good luck!
  25. Version 1.0

    990 downloads

    My wife is a speech and language pathologist and as they regularly do all kinds of board games (keep the learning a pleasant experience for the kids) in their practice, I created some pawns based upon their logo. Was actually simpler than I thought as I just started from the logo as a picture, converted it to SVG and then imported into 123D Design as a solid and did some minor tweaks such as putting it on a foot. Kids did recognize the logo and asked whether it was 3D printed - they're already up with the technology which will soon be the new normal!
×
×
  • Create New...